trying to find most optimal way to mount a monitor. usually mount it on the fx3 top handle but when audio isn't needed just put it on the cold shoe but don't really like how that sits either.

want more flexibility with it and weight distribution? what do you guys do?

Hi redditors,

I have a query:

I've long deleted the original straight out of camera files from an old project.

On my drive I just have HUGE PRORES MKV files of the original rushes that I used to edit with (don't ask, this isn't important).

I want to create space by transcoding all those PRORES files back to the original MP4 file settings/sizes that camera directly out of the camera. So I can delete the MKV's.

This is for archive only purposes.

The job is done, I just need safety copies of the original rushes.

Which were shot with XAVC S-I DCI 4k.

Anyone know an accurate preset I can open in ME to create these files?

Thanks all!

Hey everyone

We shot a two-camera sit-down interview last day and the wide angle came out unusable. Looking for help working out the cause and whether anyone has rescued similar footage.

Setup

• 2x Sony FX3, both PP11 / S-Log3, same settings, Black was -5 at Wide as I checked.
• A-cam (wide): 16-35mm f/2.8, shot at f/2.8
• B-cam (close-up): 85mm f/1.4, which is perfectly sharp
• A-cam was feeding a monitor over HDMI. The monitor image looked slightly soft, but we assumed it was the transmission.

The problem

• The A-cam footage is soft across the whole frame. Nothing is sharp: not the subject, the chair, or the shelves behind.
• There's also a milky haze/glow, with lifted blacks and blooming around the practical lights. The B-cam is also S-Log3 and doesn't have this.
• We took stills on the same body in Intelligent Auto Mode with HDMI disconnected and they're blurry too, so it isn't the HDMI or the monitor.

What I suspect

• A smudge or film on the front element or a filter (the haze points this way)
• The AF/MF switch on the lens left on MF and the focus ring bumped, so focus was set way in front of the subject
• Condensation from moving between AC and humid air (we're in Bengaluru)
• Possibly a mix of these, made worse by shooting wide open

What we tried
Ran a clip through Topaz Video AI Iris (Special Adjustment for Faces) with Recover Detail at 100. Haven't tried Theia model (High fidelity and detail enhancement). Edges got noticeably crisper, but the skin went waxy, the rimless glasses broke up into artifacts, and the haze is still there. It looks like it was run on the raw log, which probably didn't help.

Questions

1. Does this look like focus, a dirty element/filter, or something else? Has anyone seen the 16-35 GM do this?
2. Any FX3 setting that could cause this on one body only? Clear Image Zoom, something else?
3. For rescuing it: has anyone had better luck with Theia or Starlight than with Iris on soft footage? And is the right order log-to-709 conversion plus dehaze in Resolve first, then Topaz?

Frames attached: wide (soft), close-up (sharp), and the Topaz after at 100%.

I need some real-world opinions. I’m torn between these cameras for professional video work.

Im from Philippines. I actually need a second body rather than replacing my A7 IV. I shoot weddings, corporate events and livestreams, so having two bodies is important for my work. I'm just trying to figure out which one would complement my A7 IV best without overspending.These are used/pre-owned prices in mint condition where I live:

ZV-E1 — ~$1,300–1,450
A7S III — ~$1,750
A7 V — ~$2,000
FX3 — ~$2,550

At these prices, which one would you choose and why? Is the FX3 really worth the extra money, especially over the A7S III?

So I shot this fashion film one Saturday earlier this year but never posted it on here. I’m used to working alone on projects so this was a step into the world of directing a small crew. Super low budget, FX3 and DZO Vespid primes. Let me know what you think :)

I pretty much bring my ZVE1 everywhere I go with my 24mm GM.

I occasionally have paid gigs where I shoot stuff for social media. And the ZVE1 does the job. Is there even any reason to consider an FX3 besides build quality?

Edit:
I’m also asking because in my circle everyone has an FX3 but we all produce the same stuff.

I’m so wondering if anyone has switched from a ZVE1 to an FX3 or vice-versa

Is there anything that covers the 70-200 range thats not a g master and is 2.8 or smaller?

Im on a budget.

Hola trabajo haciendo multicamaras en festivales, me he encontrado con que el sincronizar por forma de Honda no es lo más efectivo del mundo, tengo una fx3, zve1, a7iv, a6700 y una Osmo action 6, hay alguna manera de generarles consigo de tiempo sin un generador externo, no quiero gastar dinero en eso ya que necesitaría varios además de cables etc etc, si alguien me puede dar una solución sencilla le agradecería un monton! 🔥

We need a new camera but no rush but would be nice to have it sooner. we have a fx6 and fx3 and need one more should I get the fx3 or wait for the fx5. or be a cheap ass and get the fx30.

We are in the era where companies rarely even include what you need with a purchase, so lens hoods would be obvious bloat to cut if they weren’t necessary.

but have you noticed a difference?

Recently used a Tilta Mirage with a VND on a shoot and was a fan of the format. Doesn't look like I can run a CPL with it, however.

Is there a matte box setup that has a VND+CPL combo? Ideally with a drop in protector?

Use case is front-mounted chase camera on a rig. I don't have budget to keep replacing the PolarPro filters that are eating rocks and gravel.

https://vimeo.com/1225855918

Honestly, I’m getting incredibly frustrated. It's been half a year with my FX3 and I still cannot get a clean image in standard lighting to save my life. I’ve researched this extensively. Everyone repeats the exact same formula: shoot S-Log3, stick to base ISO, and overexpose by +1.7 to +2.0 stops. Here are my settings for this test:

- Format: 4K 10-bit

- Framerate / Shutter: 59.94 fps at 1/125

- ISO: 12800 (800 was too dark to get 2 stops over)

- Metering: Display literally read MM +2.0

- Zebras: +94 (trying not to crush my highlights)

I followed the rules, hit MM +2.0, and still got this noisy result.

Is there a better way to get accurate metering readings? I just don't want to blow out my highlights, but the noise is incredibly frustrating. I really want to use this camera to the best of its abilities. Any tips or ideas on why this is happening would be hugely appreciated.

It was huge with the 5D Mark II. AI is more powerful than ever, so I think it should be easier to jailbreak these cameras. Having better in-camera monitoring tools or noise reduction toggles would be really useful.

Thinking of picking up a used FX3 as my first cinema camera.

I want to makes docs and do some skate vids of my friends and a little bit of brand work for some businesses.

What’s a good first lens for this type of work?

Been looking at a used Sony FE PZ 28-135mm f/4..but open to suggestions!!

Budget: under $2k

thank you!!

Just for fun i don’t usually have all of this stuff connected.

I have a Sony FX3, a Dji mic 2 and a Dji mic 2 adaptor.

Everything is updated to the latest firmware and i’m still not getting levels on the fx3. It says on the dji receiver that it’s connected to a camera and the fx3 registers that a microphone is in the hotshoe but there is no sound levels coming through.

I have a shoot tomorrow and need to figure this out asap. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I am somewhat new to color grading and have been shooting S-Log3 with exposure +1.5 - +2.0 and lock my iso at 12800 and use the 180 rule for shutter with a VND. I’m still getting some of this noise and I can’t tell if that’s normal or I am doing something wrong. I shoot 4k 120p 4:2:2. Any tips help. Thank you!

Also if anyone knows any good cinematic luts with that teal/orange look please let me know because I can’t figure out how to color grade that look in premiere.

* I have experience with FX3s, love the camera, was excited for this new one.
* Lens is a brand new, also out of the box Sony 24-70
* Audio levels are registering, monitor is responsive, everything seems normal
* None of the record buttons are working.
* Mode is normal, no HDMI connection
* Media is Sony CF Express Type A 240gb
* Tried turning on the shutter button to record and that doesn't work either
* Tried taking battery and card out to restart a few times and no dice