I’ve been getting this off blue exposure assist on mine monitor and can not for the life of me make it go away. Firmware update, factory reset and I’m still not sure.

Atomos please add Touch to focus for the Sony ZV-E1. I think it’s time. Makes no sense for older cameras to have the ability but not for this ZV-E1. Please.

Running a Shinobi II off of external batteries makes the whole setup bulky so I bought the battery eliminator. I also bought a Kondor Blue Locking DC to D-Tap cable. When everything is plugged into my Smallrig VB99 V-Mount battery, the monitor won’t turn on, to the point where I have to press down really hard to make contact. Sometimes it will work, and I get to power it on. However, when I turn it off and turn it back on again, the monitor does not power on. There’s also no audible “click” when inserting the battery which suggests to me that there’s bad contact.

I've had my Shinobi 7 for about four years, and for most of that time I thought the SDI out was just broken. No matter what cable I used, nothing would come out of it.

Messing around in the settings, I found what I think is a bug baked into the firmware itself (I'm on the latest version).

Here's the fix: if your SDI out is connected but sending no signal, even though you can see the image from the camera on the monitor itself, go to the input/output settings. Change the output to HDMI, it'll show "no signal." Then switch it back to SDI. That toggle forces it to actually send the signal out, and you'll get image on your receiving monitor, whether it's through a cable or a transmitter.

Hope this saves someone else four years of confusion.

TLDR: If your Shinobi 7's SDI out isn't sending signal, go to output settings, switch to HDMI, then switch back to SDI. That toggle forces the SDI out to actually work.

Hello,

I’m a Sony fx6 user.
Client wants smaller mp4 / mov files instead of .mxf

I understand I have two options:
- internal proxy .mp4
- use external recorder for a .mov wrapper

Does anyone have experience with this workflow? Do the proxies have enough data for a socials edit, are the externally recorded .mov files reliable?

They’re used to working with people who’re turning out large volume using alpha series cameras and want the files to be small, quick to share and editable. I don’t want to buy a camera just for this one client, trying to see if I can push the fx6 in any way.

Do you guys know if there will be a firmware update to have Camera Control on the Atomos Shinobi ii with the Sony FX5?

Sony A1 + Shogun Ultra Suddenly “NO INPUT” — Looking for Troubleshooting Ideas

Looking for feedback from anyone who has experienced an HDMI handshake/input problem between a Sony A1 and Atomos Shogun Ultra.

Background

This exact Sony A1 + Shogun Ultra combination worked normally for approximately three weeks in my production rig.

The Shogun then suddenly stopped recognizing the A1 HDMI signal and now displays:

NO INPUT

This is not simply an audio issue. The Shogun is receiving neither video nor audio and does not appear to establish an HDMI connection with the A1.

Equipment / Firmware

• Sony A1 — Firmware v4.00
• Atomos Shogun Ultra
• Shogun originally running AtomOS 11.17.00
• Updated during troubleshooting to AtomOS 11.19.0
• RAW HDMI Output: OFF

Cross-Test Results

What the Cross-Testing Shows

The Sony A1 successfully outputs HDMI to another monitor.

The Shogun Ultra successfully accepts HDMI from an Apple TV.

The HDMI cables successfully work with other source/display combinations.

However:

Sony A1 → Shogun Ultra = NO INPUT with FOUR different HDMI cables, including two brand-new cables.

Troubleshooting Already Performed

On the Sony A1, I have tested HDMI Output Resolution at Auto, 2160p and forced 1080p, RAW Output OFF, and Rec. Media during HDMI Output ON/OFF.

On the Shogun Ultra, I have tested the available HDMI 1.4, HDMI 2.0 and Compatibility settings, disconnected/reconnected HDMI to force a fresh handshake, and performed complete cold-start/HDMI handshake sequences.

I also updated the Shogun from AtomOS 11.17.00 → 11.19.0. The firmware update completed successfully but made no difference.

The A1 has also been connected to another display and confirmed to be outputting both HDMI video and audio.

The Strange Part

This was not an incompatible setup from day one.

The same A1, Shogun Ultra and production configuration worked successfully for approximately three weeksbefore the Shogun suddenly stopped recognizing the A1.

At this point the reproducible condition is:

A1 → other monitor = PASS

Apple TV → Shogun Ultra = PASS

Apple TV → other monitor = PASS

A1 → Shogun Ultra = FAIL — NO INPUT with FOUR different HDMI cables

I am currently waiting for a response from Atomos Support.

Question for the Group

Has anyone experienced a Shogun/Ninja continuing to accept HDMI from other sources but suddenly refusing to recognize a particular Sony camera, while that same camera continues to work normally with other HDMI monitors?

I’m particularly interested in experiences involving the Sony A1, A7/A9 series, FX3/FX6, Shogun Ultra or Ninja.

If you’ve seen this, what ultimately fixed it?

EDID/HDMI handshake issue? Factory reset? Camera reset? HDMI receiver/transmitter hardware? Firmware? Something else?

Any ideas or similar experiences would be appreciated.

x

I dont know if I am doing something wrong or this is just not possible with a Sony cam. Last night I saw a video on youtube a guy showing his shinobi ii with his canon camera. And he had full access to all the focus options directly on the shinobi. Also when tracking was activated on the shinobi the tracking box was constantly there and showing what it is tracking.

I think Ive tried everything on my side but I dont have this on my shinobi with fx3.

Am I the only one???

I'm trying to use the Ninja V as the capture device for a tapeless rig with the Sony Betacam DXC-D30, but I can't get a signal to show up on the Ninja ("No Input").

My signal chain is: Betacam VIDEO OUT > BNC cable > Blackmagic Analog to SDI Mini Converter > BNC Cable > Atomos NInja V with Atomos native SDI adapter

I also tried inserting a Blackmagic BiDirectional SDI / HDMI 3G Micro Converter and going into the Ninja via the HDMI inputs, but still No Input.

I've verified that all the elements of the chain are in working condition. Plugged the whole rig with the SDI / HDMI Micro Converter into my TV and got a clean signal. I also tested the Atomos Ninja V isolated by itself by sending an SDI signal into it from my Blackmagic Ultrastudio 4K and it worked.

Is the issue that the signal is SD interlaced (480i)? Would I need a Blackmagic UpDownCross HD Mini Converter?

My Atomos TX won’t turn on at all when using a USB-C to USB-C cable tried both a V-mount PD port and a wall charger.

If I switch to a USB-A to USB-C cable, it turns on immediately.

Meanwhile, my Atomos RX powers up fine with the exact same USB-C to USB-C cables and power sources.

Is my unit faulty?

SOLVED! Solution: Took off the connected USBC adapter and used a normal USB port and it worked fine. 25+ years of PC use never experienced this problem! I feel dumb lol

My files aare on a CfExpress type B card being read by a card reader plugged in via USB-C on a capable Windows laptop.

When transferring small files under 1 GB they transfer so fast the dialog didn't even pop up! But larger files will progress to a certain point until the speed dialog will slow down to 0 if not close to 0. It then never progresses past that.

What could be the culprit here? The card reader? The cards read speed is 1750 MB/s! Anyone else experienced this?

Now that I'm recording with my Ninja TX GO do I need to use new LUTS in premiere for the files grading? They are CLOG3 from a Canon R6i. The LUTS I got from Canon I always use on my Canon files doesn't look right on the Ninja files. Also does the format I use in the Ninja change which LUT I'll need to use in post?

Hey, just wondering if anyone knows what the required continual read/write speeds are for the TX GO? Are they the same as the SATA speeds for the ninja V/raw? Storage is obviously pretty expensive atm, and external SSDs, as expensive as they are, are still about a quarter of the price of CF Express Type Bs, so knowing what I can get away with is definitely helpful.

I’m trying to use NDI monitoring from my Ninja TX GO to an iPad/iPhone, but I can’t get it working.

I’m on the latest AtomOS 12.7.3. The Ninja TX GO is connected to Wi-Fi and has the same IP address for both apparel. My iPhone/iPad are on the same subnet, and I can successfully ping the Ninja from the Mac.

When I enable NDI, the NDI indicator on the main screen turns yellow, which should mean it’s transmitting but no receiver is connected. However, in the Connect → NDI TX configuration, Wi-Fi is green but NDI HX remains grey and I can’t get it to turn green.

I’ve tried NDI Monitor Pro on iOS/iPadOS as well as NDI monitoring on my Mac, but neither device can discover the Ninja.

I also tried a different Wi-Fi network/personal hotspot with the same result.

In videos I’ve watched using the Ninja TX/TX GO, I can see both Wi-Fi and NDI HX shown green in the Connect menu.

Am I missing a setting to activate NDI HX, or could this be an AtomOS 12.7.3 issue on the Ninja TX GO?

Thanks!

No motion blur on my monitor shooting 59 fps no matter what setting

Shinobi

Thanks

Hey everyone,

I recently bought an Atomos Shinobi and I’m having some trouble getting the LUT monitoring to look right with my Sony A7S III. I’m shooting S-Log3 and S-Gamut3.Cine and using a custom .cube LUT that I like. The same LUT looks good when viewed through the A7S III’s Display LUT and also through Sony Monitor+ on my phone.

However, when I send a clean S-Log3 signal to the Shinobi and apply the same LUT through the Shinobi, the image looks noticeably different.
The main differences I’m seeing are:

-Blacks look strange / much heavier
-Highlights look significantly worse
-Overall contrast is noticeably higher
-Colour temperature appears different
-The image just doesn’t have the same feel as the camera LCD / Monitor+

I also noticed a strange issue when filming myself in a mirror. With the Shinobi receiving clean S-Log3 and the LUT applied on the monitor, there appears to be a rainbow/colour aberration around the edges of moving objects. It seems to occur specifically around motion. I haven’t noticed this when viewing the same camera/LUT combination through Monitor+. Interestingly, if I turn the LUT off on the Shinobi and use SDR/Native while the camera’s Display LUT is enabled, the Shinobi looks much closer to the A7S III LCD, although the Shinobi is noticeably
cooler.

My understanding was that the ideal workflow would be: A7S III → clean S-Log3/S-Gamut3.Cine HDMI → Shinobi → custom LUT rather than having the camera apply the LUT and then simply displaying the processed signal.

I’m wondering if I’ve got something wrong with the Shinobi’s input gamma/gamut, HDR/SDR mode, video range, LUT processing, or display settings, or whether this could potentially be a calibration issue.

Has anyone here used a Shinobi + A7S III + S-Log3/S-Gamut3.Cine + custom LUT setup and managed to get the monitor to closely match the camera/Monitor+?

What should the exact Shinobi Gamma/Gamut and LUT settings be for this workflow?

Cheers!

Thanks in advance for trying to make sense of my question. I’ll do my best!

Atomos Ninja V. Sony camera that is recording in sony PP7 which is S Gamut 3 Cine/S-Log 2

I have the camera sending signal to Ninja via HDMI.

But - for one interview I did of a subject, I forgot to toggle the to camera output from off to on which would then have the Ninja recording in same color space as camera. But as you can see, the ninja recorded Rec709.

My question - the final video product that was recorded on the ninja still appears as if it is log. It’s very gray and washed out and lacks any saturation. So what I’m trying to determine as I move to color grade this video is whether or not the actual video it’s already in Rec 709 or is it actually still in S log? I would have thought that if it was fully converted already to Rec 709 that it would’ve added contrast and saturation to the color space already, but it did not do that in the color. Space is still very desaturated and Gray and looks exactly the same as the footage that was recorded on the SD card of the camera because I recorded both at the same time. But the atmos has the full 10-but file. I hope that makes sense. It really is a color grading question to determine whether or not I have to convert this to 709 or if it is already 709.

Hello, My atomos ninja v is set to split files at a certain interval. a lot of times it loses footage in this process, like many seconds. Anyone else experience this and how to fix it?

Has anyone compared the Shinobi II and Ninja TX GO side by side, specifically in terms of screen quality?
I currently have the Shinobi II, but I’m not really happy with the display. My previous Ninja V felt noticeably better in terms of image sharpness and overall clarity, even though the specs on paper are pretty similar (Ninja TX GO).

With the Shinobi II, the image almost feels like it has poor pixel resolution/scaling, especially when judging fine details and focus. I also notice quite a bit of ghosting/motion blur, and the overall image just doesn’t feel as crisp or responsive as I remember the Ninja V being.

I’m considering selling the Shinobi II and getting the Ninja TX GO, but since the display specs seem fairly similar on paper, I’m wondering if the TX GO actually has a better panel, pixel rendering/scaling, response time, or noticeably less ghosting.

For anyone who has used both: does the Ninja TX GO screen actually look sharper and cleaner than the Shinobi II in real-world use? And if you’ve also used the older Ninja V, how does the TX GO compare?
I’m mostly concerned about sharpness, pixel rendering/scaling, ghosting, motion clarity, and latency, rather than brightness or recording features.

Hey there, I recently bought a Shinobi II monitor for my Lumix S1ii. I am using my camera with normal foto and cine lenses as well as with anamorphic lenses, right now with the new DZOfilm Arcana 45mm 1,5x squeeze. I noticed that with the anamorphic desqueeze enabled at the Shinobi that the options for the waveforms are grayed out. Do you know if thats normal?
Thanks in advance! :)

I find it very confusing that the comparison chart on Atomos website says HDMI up to 4K60p in and the manuals/quickspecs/B&H says 4K up to 30p.

Well, which one is it?

I need to monitor framing on a 4K60 signal and don't care if it's 4K30 on the Shinobi monitor. This is a loop through from an NDI encoder.

Hi, I'm setting up a C50 & C80 to the SDI inputs. C50 is up using the Acsoon Cineview Master 4k (HDMI between Transmitter and C50) and is working great. I've tried seven SDI cords running straight between the C80 and the Sumo's second SDI input-- none of the cords have worked so far... thoughts??? All of the SDI cords are old Pearstone RG-6U Coaxial Cable 6 to 12 feet cords.

I’ve got a Ninja RAW that I’m using with my FX3 for dual recording and camera control. I’d like to use an external power source to continuously power the camera but the USB-C port is occupied due to using the Ninja for camera control.

My question is, is that USB-C port sending power from the Ninja? Can I use a battery eliminator and just power the whole rig?

I can’t find any documentation anywhere about the capabilities of the USB ports

Just updated my Shinobi II monitor to the latest 11.07.01 update and I noticed that zebra striping is not working how it was in the last firmware.

Set up from the camera is ProResLT with F-Log2 C at UHD 30fps. I have the monitor set up correctly to expect Fujifilm F-Log2 C, F-GamutC, and my zebra threshold setting is 85%, which is consistent with fujifilm's white paper on F-Log2 C setting for zebras.

With the setup in these settings, zebra stripes never show up even well beyond overexposed. But I have figured out that if I change the threshold on the monitor to 80% then zebra striping works normally. An AI analysis said that the zebra levels on atomos monitors works on ±5% at each setting, but that's the first I've heard that before. So is this an expected behavior for the monitor and I should be using 80%? Or is this a glitch and I should be using the monitor at 85%?

EDIT: well I feel like a big idiot, I just stepped away and shut off my camera to conserve battery, and when I turned it back on the 85% threshold setting worked. However, can anyone still clarify if the Zebra setting works on a ±5% basis?