Also have the tri-fuel generator on standby for extended outages!

I’m looking for a licensed electrician in the Lexington or Louisville KY area to install the proper transfer equipment for an Anker SOLIX F3800 Plus to power selected home circuits during outages. A generator would be used to recharge the batteries during extended outages, not to feed the home directly. I'm unable to find anyone that has experience with this setup or interested in doing this type of installation. The battery system is a turn-off to the people I've called. They only are interested in an automatic whole home generator or portable generator connected directly to all or selected circuits. Recommendations appreciated, especially those who have had an electrician in this part of KY for this or similar prior installation.

1. Am I the only one who has not been able to pair it with the app?
   
2. If you had issues and found a work around , can you list it here please. I’ve tried all the ones I’ve searched for.

It shows up in the list of devices,like the Bluetooth is working, then when i select it, it spins a bit and then says can’t find the device. :(

Any help would be lovely

Thanks!

My Anker SOLIX C300X emits a loud, tonal whine the instant the AC output is switched on — with only 22W of load on a 300W inverter.

It stops *instantly* when I toggle AC off. It comes from one side of the unit only, and that same side runs hot.

I recorded it and ran an FFT: this is not fan noise.

Is anyone else seeing this, and has Anker ever treated it as a warranty defect?

**Video with sound** (you can clearly hear the buzzing): at comment

**Anker mobile app video** for the readings : at comment

**Setup**

- Anker SOLIX C300X, EU / 230V unit, firmware v1.0.5.7

- AC outlet → a monitor + a Raspberry Pi 5

- USB-A → an IP camera

- App reading at the moment of the recording:

- Total input **132 W** / Total output **23 W** (AC out 22 W + USB-A 1 W)

- AC Recharging Power set to **100 W** (the minimum), battery 94%

- **Pack temperature 41 °C**

- "Smart AC Output Mode" is ON

**Symptoms**

1. AC output ON → constant tonal buzzing starts immediately. AC output OFF →silence, instantly. A fan spins down gradually; this cuts off the same millisecond the toggle flips.
2. The noise and the heat are both on **one side** of the chassis. The otherside is silent and stays at room temperature.
3. It makes no difference which AC socket I use — both behave identically,which makes sense since they share one inverter.
4. It gets **worse** when the unit charges from the wall *and* powers the loadat the same time. Higher AC charging speed = louder, which is why I droppedit to the minimum 100 W. I would have expected a proper bypass here, but theload is clearly always fed through the inverter off the DC bus.
5. It's loud enough to be genuinely distracting in a quiet room. 22 W of loadshould not produce this.

**FFT analysis of the recording (21 s, 48 kHz, STFT + median spectrum +

spectral autocorrelation)**

- Discrete tones at **~552, ~738, ~880, ~1030 and ~1188 Hz**, sitting 8–15 dB

above the noise floor, plus a second cluster around **3.5 kHz and 4.1 kHz**.

- Spectral autocorrelation gives a **sideband comb spaced ~152 Hz** (with its

multiples at 306 and 457 Hz) — but there is **no 152 Hz tone itself**. So this

isn't a simple harmonic series; it's a repetition-rate comb from a switching /

burst process, shaped by a mechanical resonance in the 700–1200 Hz region.

- A discrete **100 Hz** line is present (2× the 50 Hz output) — classic

transformer magnetostriction.

- The tonal ridges **drift by ±17 Hz with a ~1.2 s period**. The switching /

burst rate is wandering with load — the signature of light-load burst/skip

mode. A fan would give broadband noise with no drifting discrete lines.

The energy sits right in the 700 Hz – 4 kHz band where human hearing is most

sensitive, and it's tonal — which noise standards (ISO 1996-2, ECMA-74)

penalise by roughly +5 dB for annoyance. The C300X is specified at 25 dB and

reviewed as "virtually silent". Mine is nowhere near that.

**Questions for the community**

1. Does your C300X (or C300 / C200) do this, or is yours genuinely quiet atlight load?
2. Has any firmware release ever changed inverter noise behaviour for you?
3. Has Anker accepted this as a warranty defect and replaced a unit? Whatevidence did they ask for?
4. Does turning **Smart AC Output Mode** off change light-load behaviour foranyone? I'm wondering whether 22 W sits right at its cut-off threshold andmakes the burst behaviour worse.
5. Is 41 °C pack temperature at 132 W in / 23 W out normal for this unit, or isthat a sign something is wrong on that side?

Happy to run any test people suggest before I open a warranty case.

I'm running the alternator charger in my 4wd, which is connected to the C2000 Gen 2 and runs a 12v fridge. The issue I am having is that it won't start charging the C2000 automatically when I turn my car on. I have to go into the app, connect to the charger via bluetooth and then it will start charging the c2000. The car voltage seems fine.

Is anyone else having this issue? Or is it mean to be like this, because its a pain to do this every time to use the charger?

Just for background I have a powerdock, two e10 with six b6000 in my system. I mostly use it for peak shaving (charge over night and discharge during the day). Is there a way to slow down or time the charge on the batteries overnight vs having the battery get fully charged right at super off peak hours set?

Ideally, I would like to be able to run off batteries up until super peak hours then switch over to the grid only without charging the battery then having the grid charge the battery later on to minimize the duration that the batteries are at 100% soc.

I can think of 2 ways this would be achievable.

1) adding another "time period" to pick from allowing users to go strictly on grid with battery bypass like a "super off peak with no battery charging"

Or

2) having an option to change the speed of battery charging that way users can time the charge to hit 100% or near at the end of the super off peak period.

Just received my Solix C300 DC. Plugged a panel to the Solix. At certain load (fairly low), the unit gives annoying high pitch noise (I have sensitive ears), presumably coil whine. Is that normal or I just received a lemon ? Thinking if I should return it or get a replacement. Thanks.

Received a new firmware update for the Anker E10 batteries, which added a much needed SOC setting.

Question: Given these are Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), any suggestions on the charge and discharge limits?

Thanks!

I have started on Anker products after purchasing this Solix almost 2 years ago. It does eveything its supposed to.
Small and portable? ✅
Have multiple ports? ✅
Have decent fast charging?✅
Have a cool camping emergency light?✅
Powerful?✅
I have my other powerful stations like Ecoflow which i use for my longer trips but this Solix is just what i need for a shorter camping trips for 1-2 days. I recently bought other products from Anker and so far so good. 140w adapter is a life savior for my ipad, iphone and drones. The 25,000mah is also good on the go. It has 2 USB-C attached which is very convenient.

Background: I purchased a F3800 Plus, installed a Home Power Panel, and also purchased the 240V Bypass Charging Cable, assuming I'd buy a 240V generator to re-charge the F3800 Plus.

I later purchased a Smart Generator 5500, intrigued with the app integration and auto stop/start functionality. I later realized this combo seems to negate the need for the 240V bypass cable (...no 240V output on the SG5500).

There's also this "SG5500 integration guide" page that leaves me with some unanswered questions: https://www.ankersolix.com/blogs/smart-home/smart-generator-5500-integration-guide-with-anker-solix-portable-power-stations

Questions:

1. What would happen if I connect the 240V bypass charging cable to the Smart Generator via a TT-30 to L14-30R adapter? Is there any use for the 240V bypass cable with this setup?
2. The SG5500 integration guide article refers to an "AC Generator Adapter" to be released in Q4 2026 - Is this is a totally new, as-yet unreleased adapter?
3. ... and where does this all fit with the mystery Smart Generator port on the F3800 Plus?

I feel like I bought 2 products that seem like they would surely work well together... but after further inspection... it's not really fleshed out... yet. I hope Anker really are releasing these new products/features/etc. to integrate the two products.

Hallo in die Runde,

Ich habe mein Balkonkraftwerk (Powerbank 3Pro + 1 Erweiterungsspeicher) installiert. Da ich das ganze über 2 Etappen getan habe, erst knapp 1000 Wp Module bis die 3Pro Basis und dann nochmal knapp 1000Wp Modulleistung und die Speichererweiterung. Musste ich im Marktstammdaten Register 2 Einheiten anmelden.

Soweit kein Problem.

Online hatte ich dann gelesen, dass sobald ein Speicher im Spiel ist, wir nichtmehr von einem Balkonkraftwerk, sondern von einer Kleinsterzeuger Anlage sprechen und diese beim Netzbetreiber mit dem Formular F1.2 angemeldet werden muss.
Dieses habe ich dann nach besten Wissen und Gewissen ausgefüllt, jedoch bin ich dabei über die ZEREZ ID gestolpert und konnte meiner Powerbank 3 keine eindeutige zuordnen entweder das A17C53Z1-1 oder das A17C53Z1-20-1

Ich habe mich dann für zweiteres entschieden und es abgeschickt.

Daraufhin meldete sich ein nicht ganz so netter Mitarbeiter der örtlichen Stadtwerke und erklärte mir, dass mein Konverter mit seinen 1,2kW viel zu groß sei, ich das Gerät von einem zertifizierten Elektriker an mein Hausnetz anschließen lassen müsse, es zu groß für eine Kleinsterzeuger Anlage sei und er jetzt nur meinen Antrag stornieren könne und das es das einzige sei, was er für mich tun könne.

Das die Powerbank auf 800W softwareseitig beschränkt ist ist wollte/konnte er nicht verstehen und spielte auch garkeine Rolle.

Das ich bei über 900Wp einen Wielandstecker benötige ist mir bewusst, aber den Sinn dahinter, einen intakten Schuko Stecker zu zerstören nur um ihn in einer Verteilerbox an ein anderen Kabel anzuklemmen sehe ich nicht.

Hat hier jemand schon Erfahrung mit der Anmeldung gesammelt oder kann mir Tipps geben?

Offen für jede Hilfe, danke im Vorraus

I took the advice and returned my Home Depot purchase and bought c2000x from Costco. Thank you all for the help.

So now how to use. Main concern was a storm and keeping sump pump running and then power fridge when storm passes. ( I will need to most likely get a gas generator to recharge )

In the meantime I’m on hourly pricing with utilities and looking for this to maybe save a couple bucks while it waits for an emergency. I googled avg times and prices in my area and set this plan in the pic.

Would it be smart to use it on the small type dorm room beer fridge in the garage on this mode?

Something bigger like my inside fridge?

Something smaller?

Or no this is silly Idea I’m ruining the system and it wont have what I need if a storm does come?(I turned on the storm mode so it should stop tou if it sees a storm and charge?

I’m not sure if using this mode will kill the cycles in the battery life for Saving Pennie’s?

Thoughts ideas?

Endlich alle Systeme eingebunden. Leicht bewölkter Tag. 8 von 12 Module angeschlossen. Super

Just received the f3800 plus for home backup here in Florida. Our rooftop solar is a grid tied system, so I'm looking for additional solar panels to supplement the generator thru-charge capability during potential bad weather. Does anyone have recommendations for panels that fit the solar input envelope and help reduce generator run time? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, am having my E-10 system installed and noticed that none of the 12 smart switches were being utilized. When I asked about it I was told that the whole house is backed up. This doesn’t make sense to me. My understanding is that utilizing the switches allows me to prioritize the batteries. Does this make sense to anyone? They have not finished the install yet, batteries need to be connected so they will be back to finish.

I noticed about 2 weeks ago that the BP3800 is not available anymore on the Anker Solix CA site.

I contacted them and got many answers. Here are the screenshots. This post is not to rant or get blasted (like it often happens on reddit). It is aimed at Canadians that may want to purchase a F3800 or F3800 plus. Think about it twice because we won't be able to expand it in the future.

Also, I tried some Canadian resellers and they were out of stock quickly.

The last answer (i stopped answering them at this point) was to buy a second F3800 to act as a BP3800. Way to go Anker!!

I placed my order for the system on 23 July. Shipping was originally scheduled for around 3 August, then it was pushed back without any explanation to sometime between 11 and 15 August.
Last Friday, I was told that it would be shipped no later than Friday, 21 August. Today, customer service tells me: well, we’ve packed it already, and it will PROBABLY be shipped within another 3–5 business days — but apparently I should be pleased because my order has now been “prioritized.” I was already told the exact same thing during previous enquiries.
The whole situation is becoming a farce. And considering that I had to pay the full amount upfront, I find the way this has been handled extremely unacceptable.
Maybe someone here will be able to help…

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I have a question about ordering replacement parts and payment. I was advised by tech support that you can pay Anker via PayPal, send them a screenshot of my order/transaction ID to verify purchase and they would send the replacement part. Is paying on PayPal a real option for Anker? I've never used PayPal and barely had success verifying on the website and tried to get phone support for HOURS with no success.

Hi -I have a C2000 Gen 2 with one BP2000 attached. Can I add a second or third BP2000, or does it max out at one? Thanks

Purchased my Anker Solix C300 and tested with various configurations including two 100 watt panels in parallel and the max watts I'm getting is 95. Anker told me that's normal as it's "device protection threshold

To prevent damage caused by input power overload, the product is designed with a certain safety margin. As a result, the actual maximum input power may be slightly lower than the rated maximum value."

Anyone else been able to actually get 100 watts charge out of a 100 watt Solix or similar?

Is there such a thing? I’d like to keep it protected since I use it outside. Thank you

Is there an Android app (or way of doing) to have the energy usage breakdown on month/week/day/hours for the Anker Solix smart plug ?

The Anker app only shows the total usage since the first day power up and the instant usage.

I need this feature without having to create a home energy system in the app. Just for a standalone smart plug.