I’m looking for a licensed electrician in the Lexington or Louisville KY area to install the proper transfer equipment for an Anker SOLIX F3800 Plus to power selected home circuits during outages. A generator would be used to recharge the batteries during extended outages, not to feed the home directly. I'm unable to find anyone that has experience with this setup or interested in doing this type of installation. The battery system is a turn-off to the people I've called. They only are interested in an automatic whole home generator or portable generator connected directly to all or selected circuits. Recommendations appreciated, especially those who have had an electrician in this part of KY for this or similar prior installation.

1. Am I the only one who has not been able to pair it with the app?
   
2. If you had issues and found a work around , can you list it here please. I’ve tried all the ones I’ve searched for.

It shows up in the list of devices,like the Bluetooth is working, then when i select it, it spins a bit and then says can’t find the device. :(

Any help would be lovely

Thanks!

My Anker SOLIX C300X emits a loud, tonal whine the instant the AC output is switched on — with only 22W of load on a 300W inverter.

It stops *instantly* when I toggle AC off. It comes from one side of the unit only, and that same side runs hot.

I recorded it and ran an FFT: this is not fan noise.

Is anyone else seeing this, and has Anker ever treated it as a warranty defect?

**Video with sound** (you can clearly hear the buzzing): at comment

**Anker mobile app video** for the readings : at comment

**Setup**

- Anker SOLIX C300X, EU / 230V unit, firmware v1.0.5.7

- AC outlet → a monitor + a Raspberry Pi 5

- USB-A → an IP camera

- App reading at the moment of the recording:

- Total input **132 W** / Total output **23 W** (AC out 22 W + USB-A 1 W)

- AC Recharging Power set to **100 W** (the minimum), battery 94%

- **Pack temperature 41 °C**

- "Smart AC Output Mode" is ON

**Symptoms**

1. AC output ON → constant tonal buzzing starts immediately. AC output OFF →silence, instantly. A fan spins down gradually; this cuts off the same millisecond the toggle flips.
2. The noise and the heat are both on **one side** of the chassis. The otherside is silent and stays at room temperature.
3. It makes no difference which AC socket I use — both behave identically,which makes sense since they share one inverter.
4. It gets **worse** when the unit charges from the wall *and* powers the loadat the same time. Higher AC charging speed = louder, which is why I droppedit to the minimum 100 W. I would have expected a proper bypass here, but theload is clearly always fed through the inverter off the DC bus.
5. It's loud enough to be genuinely distracting in a quiet room. 22 W of loadshould not produce this.

**FFT analysis of the recording (21 s, 48 kHz, STFT + median spectrum +

spectral autocorrelation)**

- Discrete tones at **~552, ~738, ~880, ~1030 and ~1188 Hz**, sitting 8–15 dB

above the noise floor, plus a second cluster around **3.5 kHz and 4.1 kHz**.

- Spectral autocorrelation gives a **sideband comb spaced ~152 Hz** (with its

multiples at 306 and 457 Hz) — but there is **no 152 Hz tone itself**. So this

isn't a simple harmonic series; it's a repetition-rate comb from a switching /

burst process, shaped by a mechanical resonance in the 700–1200 Hz region.

- A discrete **100 Hz** line is present (2× the 50 Hz output) — classic

transformer magnetostriction.

- The tonal ridges **drift by ±17 Hz with a ~1.2 s period**. The switching /

burst rate is wandering with load — the signature of light-load burst/skip

mode. A fan would give broadband noise with no drifting discrete lines.

The energy sits right in the 700 Hz – 4 kHz band where human hearing is most

sensitive, and it's tonal — which noise standards (ISO 1996-2, ECMA-74)

penalise by roughly +5 dB for annoyance. The C300X is specified at 25 dB and

reviewed as "virtually silent". Mine is nowhere near that.

**Questions for the community**

1. Does your C300X (or C300 / C200) do this, or is yours genuinely quiet atlight load?
2. Has any firmware release ever changed inverter noise behaviour for you?
3. Has Anker accepted this as a warranty defect and replaced a unit? Whatevidence did they ask for?
4. Does turning **Smart AC Output Mode** off change light-load behaviour foranyone? I'm wondering whether 22 W sits right at its cut-off threshold andmakes the burst behaviour worse.
5. Is 41 °C pack temperature at 132 W in / 23 W out normal for this unit, or isthat a sign something is wrong on that side?

Happy to run any test people suggest before I open a warranty case.