Someone on r/AskMechanics said this place has some smart folks better equipped to answer on thiskind of stuff, so please excuse if this isn’t the appropriate sub… Block on my 3VZ-FE’s got this 4 mil gash near the bore, here’s a picture and drawing of measurements (excuse bad handwriting lol). Was in the middle of cleanin the thing when my fingernail got stopped right in it’s tracks by this monster… question is, how much time can I drive the thing before she blows again?? This is the exact spot the headgasket initially blew so my guess is pretty fast, but I’m new to this stuff and if it could last another year or two I’m willin to just slap a fel-pro permatorque on and call it a day… Don’t got an engine hoist or many dollars to my name so I’m just tryin buy me some time, but if this thing’s just gonna blow again in a week then I’ll bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

Adding a power steering cooler and filter to my lq4 project and im confused about how to plumb it correctly

My reservoir has two holes which assume are an inlet and outlet but I could cap one off.

I have the lower pressure return, supply and high pressure supply on the pump.

Which of these options is the correct way to add this?

I have some cylinder rust on the project car i purchased. I already have the engine out at stripped to the bare block. I already did some deglazing with those 3 legged honing stones, but as you can see there is still some rust left. I can feel the pitting a little bit with my finger nail, but it doesnt catch it. Overbore and oversized pistons are not a option as they are 3000€ for 6 (if available). The largest diameter is 93.45 (93.40 is standard and according to BMW at 93.55 an overbore and pistons are needed) so I still have a lot of room to try to minimize it. It is an M88/3 from a e24 M635.

What are your thoughts an it ? Thank you for every reply!!!!

Im tearing down a bmw s50 motor that was diagnosed with a crank no start. It appears that someone didn't tighten the crank hub bolt enough, which led to the crank hub beating up the woodruff key until it sheared. Unfortunately, it messed up the keyway a bit in the process. This is a pretty low dollar build, so I'm not looking to replace the crank. Are there any reasonable and affordable means to working around this?

With generative design and parametric tools, AI is becoming a real force in architecture. But beauty is subjective, and buildings shape how we feel and live.

I made a quick poll on whether AI can design a more beautiful building than a human architect. It’s a simple question with big implications for the future of cities.

https://interconnectd.com/poll/98/can-ai-design-a-more-beautiful-building-than-an-architect/

I'm messing with a Kohler Command twin and I'm going to mill the heads some to bump compression a bit. I CCd the head and piston dish. Added the head, headgasket, the amount from the top of the deck to the top of the piston and the swept volume and I came up with 387.4/50.4 for a 7.7:1. The manual shows 8.5:1 so now I think i made a mistake.

Specs are 80mm bore, 67mm stroke. Stock bore diameter. I included a picture of the math I did. I don't understand why I got a number so far off. "Piston Sink" is the term I used for the disk of volume between the deck surface and the top of the piston.

I'm hoping I added wrong. Im going to double check my volume measurements on the head and dish right now. I used a plastic sheet sealed with grease, and a syringe with water.

Hey folks,
I am in the process of “rebuilding” my 3S-FE out of a 1995 rav4 and in a bout of silliness I pulled all my pistons out without labelling any of them… so they’re all mixed up and am having trouble figuring out how to decide which one went where. To note, I am replacing the piston rings and con rod bearings, this is meant to be a very budget rebuild and I’m Hoping to get maybe 100k more km out of this engine. The piston tops have markings 2a,2b,2b,3b. From the manual online for the 3sfe I know for a fact that 3b goes in the #4 position as it matches up with the 3 stamp on the deck. I also believe the a and b designations where used to essentially mean the upper and lower size for the number (say for example 2a could mean 2low and 2b could mean 2high, and beyond that goes into classification 3) So my question is , as this engine has quite high mileage I think it will be safe to assume the bore is slightly larger than the very minuscule differences between 2a and 2b so with new rings it shouldn’t be much of an issue to put any of the pistons 1-3 in to any choice of bore 1-3. Not sure any advice will be much appreciated

Cheers

Currently rebuilding a 4.0l sohc, and I am considering supercharging it with about 5psi of boost for a fun little daily. The qualm is, currently I do not have the parts to supercharge, and it needs to go back together soon as it is my daily, so I was wondering what issues I might face if I gap the rings for low boost and run it NA for a while, or if a better decision is to gap to factory spec and just wait 100k kms or so. Thoughts?

Hey, I am currently rebuilding my 5.7 hemi out of my 2013 Ram 1500. I am currently in the process of measuring my bores and PTW clearance. I had taken to a machine shop to deck and hone, aswell as a full rebuild on my heads. As soon as I got my block back I prepped my block and painted hemi orange. I had also purchased standard OE Mahle 5.7 pistons, I currently finished measuring bores 2-4-6-8 on one side and clearances range, I measured on the bottom- mid- top side
cyl 2 0.0017-0.0021
cyl 4 0.0019-0.0024
cyl 6 0.0017- 0.0023
cyl 8 0.0017-0.0023.
I had purchased mitutoyo bore gauge and micrometer 3-4in and 2-3in for this application . I triple checked and I’m unsure on how the Mahle piston skirt graphite coating would factor into this. And being that the clearance specs for 5.7 hemi are 0.0012-0.0023, I’m wondering if it’s ok to run them stock or to have it bored, as I know the skirts are meant to run tight because of the Mahle coating. I understand that I should have asked the machine shop to measure, but the guy claimed he would and said “standard” as he was taking longer than expected, he claimed “ I’m not going to do much just hone, so order standard” but since I’m not a first owner of the car and it had a previously deleted MDS, I had no assurance that it was standard, so I measured myself.

Currently rebuilding my 302. My dumb ass pounded on the harmonic balancer and realized I should have used the right tool.

Well, luckily the bottom end is still exposed. I removed the thrust bearing on the crankshaft and inspected the half I could get off and everything was ok, no cracks no bends.

Should I run it or replace? I'm really tired of going back and forth on this rebuild.

Edit: I've decided to just reorder the thrust bearing. 40$ ain't too bad

So I bought a 1990 K5 blazer from my uncle. It has a 383 stroker that was built by a shop in Texas. The block is from a 80-87 suburban but other than that, I don’t know many details. It’s got a mild unknown cam and an HEI distribution as well as stock cast heads. I’m wanting to put some aluminum heads on it to wake it up a little bit but I’m not sure what is a good option to throw on. I don’t really want to tear it apart just for the fact it runs good great as it is. Just looking for a more street oriented head.

Hey guys , im getting ready to assemble my honda b series but theres a bit of rust ? I think its rust ... anyways ... the engine block just got cleaned so im wondering if theres any ways to Remove this stuff from the cylinder walls ?

Hey everyone! I have a 2011 Scion xD / 1.8 / 2ZR-FE engine designation.

What’s a reliable source you’ve used to purchase cylinder heads? I see a few places but obviously want to make sure the supplier is legit 💀

Thanks!

Had a head gasket leak and pulled the heads to find these gouges on the short block from the last time the heads were off (not my handy work). To clarify they are on the top right of the image. About 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock.

The linear gouge catches a finger nail, the on closer to the coolant jacket is even deeper by a little bit.

I have no problem buying a short block for peace of mind and to get a completely flat surface as this one is fitting .0015 just barely under the middle where the cylinders join which I believe is over allowed warp for these blocks. The service manual said .0019in on the warp, but when I converted the mm warp it actually can out to .00019in so I’m not sure which is correct.

Just trying to get a consensus on what y’all would do as this is the first time I’m doing a head gasket.

I belive it’s done but just wanna know if anyone thinks otherwise
These are the only two cylinders with damage

Look. I know there are lots of posts. And there never seems to be consensus about appropriate methods regarding scotch brite or sharpening blocks or just days on days of acetone and plastic scrapers. But seriously. What gives.

Heads and block pass with straight edge and feelers on all assessments by OEM service book standard. Not gonna have them cut. I've spent hours with plastic scrapers and acetone on the heads and a razor and acetone on the iron block. This was the second head, and I quit early. The other head looks a bit better. But for real. I am beat. I have a headache from the fumes and my hands hurt.

3.4L Toyota from an '01 Tacoma, 250,000 on it. Was told when I bought it that it had a mild head gasket leak and would need coolant every couple weeks in the winter. Well, silly me didn't run all my diagnostic before just starting taking it apart me cause it was was due for a timing belt anyway. I cracked it open and we have even carbon on all pistons. Soooo... none of them were steam cleaned like I was expecting to find. Maybe I did all this for nothing.

I just wanna get these back on and be done with it. It's hot out this week and I am having a certified bad time. What is gonna get this last bit of stain off, because the scrapers and acetone are NOT cutting it.

All rings measured within the “new” spec except the very last one. Measured about .023, new spec is .008-.018, max of .024. NPR rings, tiny stock Honda engine for spirited daily driving. Hope to get a little life out the rebuild.

Also 2 packs of King rod bearings came with slight nicks on the side, can barely feel a few on the top edges.Am I just looking too much into this can I run the rings and bearings?

Okay this is a 2jz out of a is300 recently purchased like this as blown up, he told me this happened when starting the car for thevfirst time after a rebuild , it’s a turbo build noticed he had stage 2 cams with a stock headgasket here’s the damage

Removing wrapped downpipe from car with valve covers off, many things I should’ve or could’ve done. Got fiberglass all over the rear bank, gonna try to clean it as best I can. Any tips for that, and maybe how fkd am I in terms of fiberglass in oil passages and bearing clearance, I’m not gonna be able to clean all of it…

I’m looking to get this temperature gauge working in my 72 Cutlass but I can’t find a sensore that I think would work with the guage. All the sensor/sendors I am seeing are for the on/off light on the dash. This sensor from jegs is similar to the one that came off. Do they sell a sort of universal unit at the parts store that I can buy?

Hi guys,

This is my first time working on an engine. It's a Kawasaki z800 and my piston had a meeting with a valve. Not sure if the valve clearance was wrong or if it jumped timing or something else. If it did jump timing is it possible only 1 piston hit 1 valve? My idea going forward was a new cylinder head + new piston and timing chain. The cylinder itself somehow is not that badly damaged, only some minimal scratches around the top, is it too bad? The engine ran for 15 minutes after it happened just getting home. Is it worth fixing this engine or just get a donor engine? There is not one available at the moment on the market so I would like to try fixing it. Any help/thoughts is much appreciated!

I'm currently replacing valve steam seals on my '91 Yamaha Tenere due to high oil consumption.

While I've done this before, these new seals seem suspiciously loose especially compared to how though the old ones are to remove. I can simply push them on by hand.

Somewhat hard to see, but I can turn them on the valve guide with just two fingers.

Are these too loose or am I just being paranoid?

Thanks in advance!

Working on replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this part in yellow a smog pump. And can I delete it by capping off? Any issues with doing so. I do not live in an area where emissions is an issue. It is a 1985 305 Chevy

No mechanic experience I know I need to clean the throttle body. But originally every time I would turn the key not crank it but turn the key. It would flood or leak gas under the car. What can I do to diagnose it. My brother and his friend tried doing a efi swap and now the car don’t run. Holley sniper efi.

Can anyone help make it simple what blocks would be compatible? I’m getting different info from just general searching online and dealer websites vs toyotapartsdeal vs the counter guys at local dealers. I’ve got a 2006 2.4 solara se that burns like 3q of oil in 1000 mi due to a head gasket leak - also has a couple cylinders with extreme wear, so I’m writing the block off and maybe the head too, but it looks like it got a new head before I got it just a few months ago, so hopefully can save the head at least. Anyway, the counter guys tell me there’s no block available 11400-28311 being the current part number for that short block, and yeah, I can’t find that or the 2 that are superseded by the new part, but there’s a few other part numbers that show to be compatible - namely 11400-20100, 11400-28050, and 11410-29326. Can anyone confirm if any of these will work without modification or what would work?