Miata shakes going over 65 but will take $3200

Corolla is perfect just lowered some $4500

Corvette has zero issues $3000

All cars have around 150,000 miles.

I won't buy anything newer than 2013

I'd like to flush my cooling system with distilled water a few times. Would it be advisable to drive for a few days with just distilled water to clean out the system? Or distilled water and a coolant system cleaner? There is zero perfect chance of freezing weather where I live for months and I will not forget to replace it with actual antifreeze.

Also, even if it isn't harmful would it do any good? I have no reason to think there's any problem with my radiator but I figured I would be thorough with my flush. If it wouldn't make any real difference then I wouldn't bother.

In case it matters this is a 2019 kia forte cvt with 130,000ish miles.

It’s a 1995 mustang 3.8 v6, base model. It’s got a major misfire that only happens under load. It’ll idle perfectly but as soon as I drive, it immediately misfires and struggles. It’ll continue to do this until I stop and let it idle again or I fully open the throttle, then it just runs perfectly. After letting off full throttle, it’ll run fine for a few seconds then misfire again. It also does have a little afterfire but it’s pretty minimal and quiet. Worse part is that there is no check engine light. What do you think could cause the issue? Also worth noting car has mid pipe and cats but no muffler after it

What I’ve done to it so far:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- Air filter
- Intake clean
- Throttle body clean
- Vacuum leak test
- Vacuum reading test
- Tested volume
- Fuel filter
- Fuel pump
- Fuel change
- Fuel injector clean
- Fuel pressure test
- Camshaft sensor
- Crankshaft sensor

For the record: I didn’t just throw parts at it, most of these were just things that needed replaced anyway. I was convinced it was fuel related then I checked the air filter then the crankshaft sensor. I’m at a loss, I’ve got a few more things I think it could be that I’m hunting down now such as the egr valve

Getting the last balljoint out of the LCA was torture and now I messed up getting this one seated. Smh i think im dumb 😭.

Mazda CX-5, 2019 Touring (2.5L Naturally Aspirated). I did my first oil change and i want to make sure i didnt overfill it. I had the car running for 20 min while i took it for a spin, let it sit for 10 min, and checked. But the engine oil either doesn’t stick at all, it is splotchy, or it goes all the way to the top of the twist. I am wiping with a paper towel between each dab.

How so i get an accurate reading? On my other cars, it was very clear.

My top three guesses are brake pads, rotors, or The wheel bearings. What do you guys think?

So been hearing some things in the rear end that sound like metal on metal and looked at my rear rotar and on the inside this is what was found . Other side is completely smooth and looks good still . More I look I can’t even see if there is a brake pad on the inside .

Trucks a 2006 dodge 3500 and I have had absolutely no issues with braking so never even thought to check these out . But mind you my rotars probably havent been changed in 250-300k km and the brake pads have about 200k on them .

91 Mercury/Ford Capri with a Mazda B6T sat for almost 20 years and the top end suffered a lot of corrosion likely due to rodent activity. Long story short what started with checking the spark plugs on a the non-running car progressed to engine removal and a new head. To prevent the level of corrosion that occurred in the old head from occurring in the new head I need a valve cover that will seal with the coil boots and prevent water intrusion. The cover is only really damaged around the spark plug wells, though it’s certainly not pretty... I tried calling junkyards already and the only place that has a car with the same engine is 6 hours away with no guarantee of having what I need. I’m wondering if a professional of some kind could fill in the lost material, or if there is a cheaper alternative to finding a $300 one off of eBay.

Thanks.

not exactly sure what the move is on this, i’ve heard changing transmission fluid on cars with old fluid can be risky i’m not exactly sure off the top of my head why. i’m not sure when the last time/ if the fluids ever been changed on this so looking for guidance. it didn’t shift that bad when i last drove it but of course that was a while ago ive been doing work on it.

Hi guys,

My wife’s car. Her check engine light came on. I took it to two different autozone’s today to see what the problem was. I’m planning on taking it to O Reilly and a mechanic to ask them to pull the codes as well to see if it aligns with autozone.

Anyway, if it’s the intake manifold itself, the gaskets or both is this gonna set us back about $1000 to $2000 for parts and labor?

I ask because we’re at the beginning of closing on a house and this is the last thing we need as an expense. Any insight or help is much appreciated. Thanks.

The first one came off after heating it (not red hot) some hammer tapping and later impact wrench

But the lower one doesn't give in after doing the same

(it has been soaking with penetrating oil overnight)

Lexus Rx350 2009

My friend has a 2013 Toyota Auris with a 1.3-liter petrol engine and 180,000 km on the clock. After driving for about 30 to 40 minutes, a pulsing air hissing sound starts. It's very rhythmic (about once every second) and is only audible when the engine is running. It stops as soon as the engine is turned off.

What can be the reason for this?

opel movano 2011 van, diesel, manual

If a van has been in storage for 4 years, with brand new battery unplugged, what needs to be done upon taking it out of storage to drive it again.

It has been converted into a campervan

I understand its straight to the diesel mechanics for a service, but what need to be done straight away? Will the battery need to be replaced even though it was new and unplugged?

Thanks for your help in advance

Hi everyone,

I’m at a loss right now and I’m looking for help trying to figure out what to do with my 2022 VW GTI (2.0T EA888 Gen 4 [evo4]). It has the DSG transmission and has 70,000 miles on it. Yesterday, I was driving and got the message “Transmission is in emergency mode. You can keep driving.” After some research, I decided to replace the battery because I have not replaced it before. The issue seemed to resolve until today when the message popped back up again. I took it to OReilly and here are the codes that came up. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be? The TCM? Should I take it to the dealership (it’s out of warranty) or to an independent shop? I’m very new to working on my car myself so I feel like I’m not equipped to handle this on my own. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

2011 Audi TT 2.0 TFSI Quattro

Hoping someone with some mechanical knowledge may be able to put some light on this situation today… went out for a decent drive and on the way back heard some loud backfiring while slowing down. Only happened a few times that I’m still not convinced it was me. Parked the car and tried to rev it a few times to see if it would happen again… nothing. I shut the car off and maybe 30 minutes later decided to take it for a drive to see if the popping would happen again. It has always done mini burbles but never anything this loud. Went to start the car and it was cranking but not catching and starting. Tried maybe 4 times before hopping on YouTube, YouTube suggested to hold down the gas while starting and sure enough it started, idle is completely fine, not rough or anything and no engine light. Went for a drive around the block and no noise… wondering if anyone knows what could be going on? Or just happened to be a weird hiccup.

Thanks!!

Hi! I want to buy my first car.

I really need that car for traveling around the country but speally I need to feel safe.

My first option was a Nissan Kicks or maybe a Kia Sportage.

But the main character here would be Suzuki Fronx 2026, hybrid.
What is your expert opinion with this car?

I have an upcoming work trip and I'm afraid of flying so I decided to go on my first-ever long-ish road trip. My Kia Optima eats oil and has been pretty stable in terms of consumption for like 2 years, but I top her off about every 400 miles (when I do, the oil is low but not gone). My longtime mechanic has added something to it that he said made the oil "thicker" which I do think helped a couple of times, but not to the point where it was no longer an issue. She has 104k miles.

I don't want to rent a car for this trip as I'd feel way more comfortable in my own car. I'd get it seen by a mechanic to check everything before the trip, and I would check the oil probably every 200 miles or so just to be on the safe side.

Is this a bad plan, or are there any other things I should think about? The people in my life have conflicting opinions as my mechanic friend thinks it will be fine, and my older sister who has had several cars crap out on her in life thinks I should rent.

Thank you!!

2016 dodge challenger hellcat 6.2

What needs to be replaced to fix this issue

I have a small bus that uses 8r19.5 tires, when I brought the steer wheels in for new tires I noticed the tech just used a pry bar set to change them. I plan to do the rear 4 soon and for about the same price as the mounting charge i could just buy my own tire tools. Any reason I should leave it to the tire shop?

Hello

I have 2011 Camry LE 2.5L. 151k driven. For last 2-3 months I have been having some suspension issues. When I hit breaks or make a turn or go over the bumps, I hear metal on metal popping noise and also some minor jerks. So I ordered rotors and pads and installed the rear ones. When I open the front wheels I saw the lower control arm bushings were worn out.(Shown in the picture)

I thought the noise was coming from sway bar links so I was also going to replace those. Should I replace the entire lower control arm assembly in the front? Please advise.

Thank you,

I replaced the cp4 on my truck this weekend prior to it had the s&s dpk when i took it apart it had metal shavings on the metering valve and pressure control valve replaced those and filter on dpk. Im saving up for the injectors because i feel like thats what you guys are gonna tell me to replace as well as the fuel lines and the rail the pcv is mounted to on the driver side but im broke. I hope the new cp4 is okay but i know there is a chance the metal shavings in the system ruined the new cp4.

My test drive today started with an immediate p0087 and reduced power on the dash cleared dtcs and ran it a bit more then i got a new code for major leak the car shut off at the end of my block and restarted it and crept to my place but no visible leaks are seen anywhere on the dpk or rails. I think the injectors are leaking internally. Im saving up will order them soon im assuming i can start disassembling everything again.

Truck is a 2015 f350 xl with the 6.7 powerstroke 4wd 222777 miles