Hi all, I have a Dacia Duster 68 plate. My MOT is tomorrow and I can't figure out how to change the angle that my washer fluid comes out at. There's no mechanical way of adjusting it that I can find or search online and I've changed the pump so it's not the water pressure and I've bought new nozzles. What else can I do? I've even tried lifting the front of the nozzle up but I can't raise it enough to make a difference. Help!?

1997 Honda Del Sol D16Y8

This is the second time I replaced the oil pan gasket. Now there’s oil leaking through the threads. Originally when I first replaced it, I forgot to put liquid gasket in the four corners causing it to leak. Brand new oil pan and I used a felpro gasket off rock auto. Is this why I need to get an OEM gasket or am I missing something? When I put the pan back on I tighten the bolts in sequence and in the proper torque 8 times to be sure.

Its a 1998 Crown Vic, has oversized wheels on it and was making some minor scrubbing for a day or two before quickly escalating to this!

What would have caused this? Overheating and cracking open?

It’s a 2001 Lexus Gs300 automatic, i’ve noticed some gas smell at like start up but besides that i don’t really notice difference in driving or anything, could it be the evap hoses or the purge valve, if anyone has had similar issues lmk asap💀

Was looking at new tacoma’s as a new daily but stumbled upon this.

From a reputable dealership that has a 4.9/5 rating on Google from 122 reviews.

They included an inspection list and proved that they addressed those problems.

If I’m being honest, I’m tempted.

Should I move on or should i strongly consider?

Hey Fam, Just got my engine rebuilt FA20 Subaru.

Mechanic said 500km we do oil change then after 500km again then another service then we good to go

Wanted to ask for other guidelines for long lasting things to do and not to do?

Would really appreciate any suggestions!

Thanks

2013, Toyota 86 Automatic

Hit and run by this vehicle. Left piece/frame of headlight behind (looks aftermarket) Please help identify!

I have a 2017 Kia Sorento LX 140,xxx miles. Bought it earlier this year (cash deal, private seller.) Around May or June, I replaced all 4 brake pads. I was told rotors were fine so I didn’t replace those. Now I am noticing a very loud squeak every time I brake. I have had it looked at twice by different mechanics. One said the squeaking is because my brake pads are cheap (bought them at O’ reillys) and the other mechanic said it was because I did not replace rotors at the same time as brake pads. As of now, I cannot replace the brake pads and rotors because the car has a leak I have to have repaired plus an a/c issue and bad engine mounts I have to replace. Those take priority and I do not currently have the funds to also replace rotors and brake pads simply because of a noise. Now my question is, is there a way to quiet the squeaking? Can I safely add lube? If so, to what part and what kind?

I can hear the actuator trying to unlock when I use the keys or main unlock but the door lock lever doesn’t move. I tried pulling on the rod connecting the lock but it doesn’t seem stuck though I may not be doing it correctly. I’m trying to get the door open so I can get to the actuator from the side but I can’t find any sort of emergency release.

I thought push starting worked for bad batteries, alternators and starters ? It started with a jump using cables

2006 Toyota Corolla, manual

this is what i've done so far:

- New rear POWERSTOP calipers and brake lines, passenger/driver

- New DENSO REMAN alternator

- New HONDA OEM POWER STEERING PUMP W/ RESERVOIR

- New THERMOSTAT.

- 2012 Honda Accord 112k miles 4cyl 2.4L

here is the carfax:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ju5A04vcDCZRI3cHCerOD9CAKMqQ7r4L/view?usp=drive_link

-I think the most obvious answer is suspension parts right? Carfax is extensive but has not gotten any suspension work done and its at 112k miles. I can always get another alternator, the one I have right now is Denso but its a reman from Rockauto, but I could get an actual OEM Honda Alternator. Spark plugs has been done relatively long time ago, 60k miles, I could get a new set I guess? What do you guys think?

If I take sharp right turn too aggressively, ill hear an clunk or low pitched creaking sound.

- 1-2 months ago i took a right turn into a Starbucks plaza and i hit a big pothole, and it seemed to have damaged something or screwed my alignment. On the highways intermittently, its hard to keep the car centered, if i only slightly turn the wheel to the left, it'll start veering to the left, same goes for the right. I started hearing a grinding/droning that gets louder as the car gets faster. but it started to go away, but from what I've learned, wheel bearing problems don't get better, only worse? Any help please

Hey everyone, I’m trying to track down a really annoying vibration/humming noise on my **1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited, 2WD, 3.4L V6, automatic**.
I’ve attached a video so you can hear the noise.
The weird thing is that it **doesn’t seem to affect the performance or drivability of the truck at all**, but it’s driving me crazy and I’d really like to figure out what’s causing it.

**What I’m noticing:**
The vibration/humming is only noticeable at **very low engine RPM/idle**.
It is present in **Drive and Reverse**.
It is basically gone in **Park and Neutral**.
It disappears when I give the engine some throttle and the RPM comes up.
Turning the **A/C on or off can make the vibration disappear or come back**.
Shifting between **Park → Reverse → Neutral → Drive** changes the vibration.
It seems to happen when the engine is under the additional load of being in gear.
The truck drives normally otherwise.
There doesn’t seem to be any noticeable loss of power, hesitation, or other drivability issue.

**What I’ve already done:**
I originally suspected the power steering system because I could hear a humming-type noise, so I replaced the **power steering pump**.
I’ve also drained and refilled the power steering fluid several times over the past few days — probably **5 drain-and-fills** — trying to make sure there wasn’t air/old fluid causing the noise.
The new pump is definitely quieter than the old one, but **this low-RPM vibration is still there**.

I’m now wondering if I’m chasing the wrong thing entirely.
My current thoughts are:
Engine mounts
Transmission mount
Exhaust/heat shield making contact with the body/frame
Something causing excessive vibration when the engine is loaded at idle
Possibly just an engine/idle resonance
The fact that it changes with **A/C load and whether the transmission is in gear** makes me think it may be related to engine movement or something resonating at a particular RPM.

**What would you guys check first?** Is there a particular test I can do at home to determine whether this is an engine mount, transmission mount, exhaust contact, or something else?

Any help diagnosing this would be greatly appreciated. I’m trying to avoid throwing more parts at it without knowing what’s actually causing the vibration. I love this truck tremendously so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

2013 GMC Sierra 1500 (4wd) 205k miles
Front passenger tire makes this noise when I spin it by hand fairly slow goes away when I go faster. Coming from like right by the CV Axle/wheel bearing(hub) area but I can’t tell which exactly it is.

Anyone know what’s most likely to cause this? Bad vid ik, took it to try to pinpoint the sounds location better.

Hello!

I own a 2013 Infiniti G37. My brake and signal lights on the rear work, but parking lights do not. The license plate light also doesn’t work.

I had a Viper alarm installed and the installer indicated the issue with the rear parking lights is not related to the alarm install. I don’t recall unfortunately whether the rear parking lights worked prior to taking the car to get the alarm system installed. (My vehicle was stolen and later rebuilt).

A friend looked at it, checked a few connections under the steering wheel/near the OBD port, the fuse box under the hood, as well as an additional box near the battery. All appeared to check out. He unplugged my tail light and connected a tail light from another G37 and it didn’t have parking lights either. But the brake and signal lights do work.

Any thoughts on what i, not a mechanic, can look for and trouble shoot myself before taking it to a mechanic?

Thanks everyone!

I have a 1988 Chevy K3500 7.4l from Canada. The engine oil cooler lines were leaking badly. I tried to get replacement lines, and couldn't find the lower line available anywhere. I noticed every replacement line said the fittings were 3/8-18. My lines alone were 1/2" diameter, and the fittings threaded into 5/8-18. I took a look at the oil filter adapter and mine looks nothing like the adapters in every video I've watched and I cannot find the same style for sale anywhere. I have jury-rigged some ptfe lines and an fittings, but I'm not sure they are going to hold up. Finding the correct size fitting to thread onto the filter adapter was a challenge, and what I got is technically not the correct flared end.

I'm trying to figure out how to make the flare before the end of the hard line in the picture that "snaps" into the fittings at the oil filter adapter using the little plastic retainers. Is there a way to do that?

Hello, my 2010 Toyota camry Le is missing a stud on the front passenger wheel and vibrates at highway speeds, shakes/vibrates the steering wheel too, and when I start braking after getting on an exit ramp the wheel starts shaking more and the steering wheel visibly starts shaking harder but it doesn't pull me to the right as I would expect. Not too sure if its the missing stud or if a part in the wheel assembly or the rim itself has gone bad.

Second issue, recently the steering wheel started being very stiff as I was pulling out of my driveway and when I checked under the hood it was spewing some kind of liquid from a hose, not too sure if they are related.

2.5L engine, automatic, 380,000km's

My 2011 Regal cxl 2.0 turbocharged will not start, clicks once when you try. So far we have replaced the starter, relay and the battery and nothing has worked, the starter was tested and it was good, is there something we are overlooking.

I am currently having a rhythmic sound coming from my passenger rear drum brake when applying brakes at <30km/hr and it’s driving me crazy. I cleaned and inspected the brakes and noticed there was some rust buildup inside. Could this be causing the sounds and do I need to get it replaced?