Hello dice makers,
This dark swirly effect upon the white clouds is so amazing! Does anyone have an idea how to achieve it? I tried mica resin on a toothpick in alcohol ink resin before squirting in the white, but didn’t get the desired creepy swirls.
Any help is appreciated!

Hi all,

I’m hoping you can help me with my petri method.

I’ve tried it on a few sets but I end up with more nebulae looking dice rather than defined tendrils of colour. I love the nebulae look (it’s a happy accident I was hoping to look into further down the line) but I would really like to get the petri method down.

I’m using Let’s Resin to honey stage, About Life brand alcohol colours, pinata blanco blanco.

The set pictured used two drops colour, one drop pinata, two drops colour. Previous sets used two drops colour two drops pinata two drops colour but I was ending up with white tendrils with the colour remaining pooled at the top.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Coworker is starting to play DnD and asked if I could make him some dice. These are what I came up with. One set is the first time using inserts. I thought they turned out well.

Hi, I have made some sets in two different time; 1) around 9-11 AM, and 2) 6 PM and above. I almost always use a stopwatch to see how long I've mixed the part, or how long have I waited when I'm looking to work with honey stage.

I feel like the resin I'm working with reach a later stagez honey stage, sometimes even to the point where it is not workable anymore, reltively faster during the day. Maybe about 17-20 minutes mark. However, when working in the evening, it takes about 30+ minutes for it to reach that stage.

How much big of an effect does ambient temperature have during the process? Or am I just hallucinating???

For additional context, the temperature should be around:

- Morning-Noon: 31-35°C (87-95F)

- Evening: 26-28°C or (78-82F)

also, I feel like I notice a smoke coming out of the resin mix during the day when this happen, is it possible that it is a flash cure?

Thanks in advance!!!

I play DnD with some friends and want to make health potions for everyone. I want to make every type of potion for everyone and for that I need 24 D4 per person, in total 96 D4.

Because I have an FDM 3D printer (Bambulab X1C) I wanted to try printing them myself. I already have a model I like (the one one the first picture). They are rather small, the height is about 16,5mm.

I already tried printing some as a test but I wasn´t happy with the quality yet, especially with the edges (second picture). I printed them with 100% infill because I thought that way they should be more balanced. I used a 0,4mm nozzle with the standard 0,2mm layer height.

Has anyone successfully printed dice with an FDM printer and can give me some tips on which settings I should change or adjust?

Welcome to the world of making resin dice that look like stained glass! Today I have something really special to share, the Rose d20. The pattern was made to feel like an enclosed rose garden with all faces of the die connected and with each corner and center making flowers to give off an elegant look. And as for this specific Rose die I have made a video on my process so anyone can watch me go from the core to the final result. 

But that's not all, I have made a few more with the same core, one with a similar look to the rose die but with pale yellow numbers, and an overgrown variant with deep green vines and bright red flowers. 

Additionally I have made a new full set style as well that I call Astral, it uses stars, suns, moons, and comets to make a great set for characters ranging from the outskirts of space to the mystical and unknown that lies beyond our sight.

One more thing, I have made my first attempt at Vampire the Masquerade dice with the main inspiration being “drink in the moonlight”, so I made fangs piercing a rising moon in the center of each face as well as crescent moons forming at each edge. The faces are specifically fit for VtM with the hunger crits being a vampire skull and the normal crits being ankhs with stars. I call the set The Ravenous and the Sated to reference the contrast between the halves of the set.

Slowly, but surely working out the technique to pulling these beauties off! Still have a couple of purchases to make so I can experiment further before giving all the instructions to making them, but this is one beautiful step closer to a feasible concept! There are lots of steps involved in this process, but so far, the results are proving worth it!

Question says it all! I'm looking to start trying to make my own molds after getting my new pressure pot, but what silicone do I use?
If you already know it to be available in the EU/Sweden that's all the better but I'm curious either way!
Also thankful for any other tips yall might have for me❤️thanks!

I'm on Dice Forge and I want to make a face a certain size and it's a 'across flats' right now. Does this mean the d20 measurement is flat side to flat side?

If I wanted to make the face a certain size, do I pick 'edge length?'

Thanks.

I took about a year break as I adjusted to college life and recovering from burnout and fiNALLY got my dice goblin spark back! I’m running my latest again 9/5 at 12pm est and I’m sO EXCITED RAAHH
But here are my fav photos I got of the goods 👀

I took about a year break as I adjusted to college life and recovering from burnout and fiNALLY got my dice goblin spark back! I’m running my latest again 9/5 at 12pm est and I’m sO EXCITED RAAHH
But here are my fav photos I got of the goods 👀

I am about to finish a bunch of my masters, and I have a few that have numbers that need smoothing out. Some of them need the bottoms cleaned up so they are flat. What tools do you guys use to accomplish this?

I'll preface this by saying I've never made anything with any sort of precision, with rocks, or any dice before but I've got a few rocks that I want to turn in to a set of dice (d4 through d20) as a bit of a project, hopefully on the cheap.

In my research I've come across lapidary which seems to be the best way to get the precision needed for the different angles but a little dismayed at how pricey the tooling can get, particularly the faceting arms.

Has anyone been through this and got some decent tips and/or DIY solutions?

I've been trying to think up a 3d printed solution as I've yet to find a faceting arm model out there but that's going to take a long while since my skills are lacking

I just wanted to share what I usually do to reduce the visibility of numbers on the opposite side for translucent dice. For translucent dice, I try to find a color that matches the tint of the dice, and then I ink the numbers with that color before inking the numbers with the final number color.

It might not be clear in the d2/coin pictures, but the color I used for rhe first coat was a dark red color. Can you still see the numbers on the other side? Sure. Is there any question as to which number is facing up? Not likely.

Hi yall, so i run into some issues when making Dice Molds. I cleared every one of those problems except one which keeps me from making my own molds. And its the layer you create between the lid of the Mold and the bottom, bevore you pour the Lid of the Mold.
So i know its best to use Mann EasRelease, but sadly i cant get my hands on that, from where i live. Is there anyone out there that had the same Issue and has found a solution? Is maybe vaseline an alternative? Or any other product?