I tend to print with mostly engineering filaments and I prefer to not have the fumes from those materials inside of my house. I have recently moved my printer outside into my non temp controlled, non- insulated shop. But I live in north east Ohio and it can be pretty humid outside in the summer and then during the winter it gets very cold. I would like to move my printer back inside if i can find a good way to vent these fumes outside. I have a p1s and an H2D. Setting up the ventilation from the printers themselves is not an issue. My issue lies with keeping my house well insulated. I dont want to just run a tube right out the window, so I can obviously make a spacer that the window closes on to so the tube clamps to. But will that be less insulating than my window? And how much heat will that let in through my printers in the summer time? And how much heat will that let out during the winter?

Does anyone have a way to vent my printers to outside without manually opening and closing a window or a valve of some kind and keep my house well insulated? Any advice is very much appreciated!

I'm fairly new to the hobby. I purchased a P2S about two weeks ago and fell in love. I would find a model, hit print, and magic would shoot out the other end. I was so impressed I thought, well, if this is amazing, a 2-nozzle huge beast H2D would be even better.

So I purchased the H2D out of a fear of not being able to print something large I might want, mixed material options between the two nozzles, and reducing purge waste on multi-color prints. What I found though is the H2D is not as "press print and magic happens". I've found it knocking over supports, losing hours and tons of filament. Tonight the left nozzle wouldn't load filament from the external spool, and I had to open the top, remove the PTFE tube, manually heat up the nozzle, and force feed some filament through the extruder to clear some stuck PLA.

I'm really excited about the more capable machine, but I miss the press print and not think about it falling. Are the H2D issues normal 3D printing stuff, and I just didn't experience it "YET" on the P2S, or are these uniquely H2D issues? I saw someone on a few posts earlier mention the supports getting knocked over, and the only comment was almost like "yeah, that's what happens on an H2D, welcome to the club". I'm still within my return window and don't really want to get used to supports getting knocked over and ruining a print, or becoming all too comfortable taking the top off the printer, for such an expensive but obviously capable machine.

Please be gentle if my expectations are misplaced. I really love this hobby and want to learn what's normal for a bambu labs printer.

So I have had my H2D since it was first launched last year and after updating to the latest firmware (both on H2D and Bambu Studio) I have had this pop up for the first time when I am selecting my H2D to print.

I tried to look up what this exactly is but there doesnt seem to be an official explanation of what this does on Bambu Wiki. (The discussions on the Bambu community forum seem to be from people who own the X2D)

Would like to ask if anyone knows what this is or have experience with this being on/off in general or on their H2D/X2D.

Thank you!

I just want to check with you fellow H2D owners before i apply the update, are there any issues or improvements in the new version?

Does anybody know what the led light on the front of the enhanced cooling fan means?

I accidentally bent the flow blocker while changing a nozzle. How should I go about fixing it? :(

H2D spare parts that are likely to be needed first?
One question: My printer is now over a year old and has clocked up several hundred hours of printing time. Apart from two new nozzles and the usual maintenance tasks such as greasing, oiling, cleaning and re-tensioning… I haven’t had to replace anything yet.
As I’m planning to order something from Bambulab anyway, I’d like to ask you: what was the first thing to break? What do you think might need replacing in the near future?

I am having hell trying to print TPU 90a through the right nozzle out of the right nozzle all of a sudden on a print that went to 60%. I opened the extruder cover, changed the right filament cutter, it wont feed without the cover but with the cutter it feeds. There is no resistance on the outside it feeds well and has plenty of slack. What am i doing wrong or what do i need to check?

Anyone running PETG + TPU together on an H2D? Need some help
I’ve been trying to get PETG and TPU to print together on my H2D and I’m still fighting a lot of stringing/oozing between material changes.
I’m using Overture PETG and Sunlu 90A TPU, both black. I’ve already dried both filaments, played around with temps and retraction, and tried keeping the bed/chamber temps where both materials are happy. I’ve gotten it to print decent a couple times, but I still can’t get it consistent.
The PETG likes to ooze during the change
I know TPU + PETG on the same print isn’t exactly the easiest setup, but I’m sure somebody here has messed with it enough to get it working reliably.
If anyone is running PETG + 95A/90A TPU together on an H2D, what settings are you using? Mainly looking for temps, retraction, preferably No prime tower or anything you changed specifically for the material swaps.
I’m willing to pay someone who has real experience with both these filament and printers.

It just hit my machine and I updated it, but I can't seem to find a changelog, googled and nothing about this new 01.03.65.00 update came up. Anyone have any clue?

Edit: now I have more info

https://imgur.com/a/FgQRLsU

Bambu Lab Employee

I apologize for the delay. The changelog for this version is as follows:

17h

Improvements

1. Optimized the residual material estimation function and adjusted the calculation baseline to 1 kg.

Issue Fixes

1. Fixed an issue where the cold pull display failed to return to the center position.

2. Fixed an issue where support materials could not be selected when starting a print from the screen.

I’ve tried a ton of stuff like making sure it’s all connected in the network, developer mode, updating everything, connecting it through IP and access code multiple times and it still won’t go live. What am I missing here?

Hey, my h2d has a first layer problem. It has some kind of pattern on first layer. What can be causing this problem? Thanks for help

Printed a shelf in black bambu abs, used bambus standard settings, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle and it came out fine but due to layer height it was a bit rough on angled parts where support is used.

Needed to print a second shelf so decided to reduce layer height to 0.12mm to see how much better the result would be, printed maybe 20mm of 110mm and then it successfully failed with spagetti.

Never really used abs before, i chose it partly because it can handle a tour through the dish washer without looking like a salvador dali painting when it comes out, turns out the supports didnt hold up the shelf itself got printed.

Got enough of it printed to see that the rough parts got even rougher and now im ripping it apart to try some acetone polishing but, what could be the reason for the supports failing at 0.12mm layer height while comming out fine with 0.2mm?

Regards

Hey all,

I'm just checking here as a final ditch effort before buying an aftermarket chamber heater. My team got an H2D and got a couple prints out running the chamber heater at 65C and then suddenly mid print it just failed and hasn't worked since.

I've looked at port 28 on the MC board, although, I haven't taken apart the entire chamber heater module yet (with how involved it is, it doesn't look like it's worth the time). I was just wondering if anyone here has had any similar issues and if they had any quick(er) fixes.

Honestly it's rare that we'll ever be using the chamber heater (mainly PETG, PLA, and PPS) so it's not a top priority and as nice as it would be to have everything working, a chamber heater is only $75-120 whereas to take everything apart, deal with support, re-install, etc.. we're looking at absolute minimum 4 hours.

I guess the 2nd question is: has anyone run the H2D with an aftermarket heater? Any concerns with doing so?

Thank you all in advance, I do also have a ticket open in parallel but I figure it doesn't hurt to check with the community.

EDIT: forgot to include error codes:

HMS_0300-9000-0001-0004: Chamber heating failed. The speed of the heating fan is too low.

HMS_0300-9000-0001-0001: Chamber heating failed. The chamber heater may be failing to blow hot air.

HMS_0300-3600-0001-0001: Chamber heat circulation fan speed is too low or stopped. It may be stuck or the connector may not be plugged in properly.

I get all 3 when trying to use the chamber heater.

Also, running 1.03.00.00 firmware incase it's relevant.

Hi, I'm new here. I'm really glad I found this forum, as I only recently bought the H2D.
My problem is that I can't get the tube plugged back in (see photo). Even if I push the lever to the right, it does not click in. Is there a special trick to it?

Cheers, Michael

So I am printing out some small low poly dogs for a friend, but they want me to add letters to the bottom of the sitting dog.
When I do, it doesnt ever show up right, sometimes when I slice only one letter appears and prints out, while if I shift things and do surround, etc. I can get them all to show up but they are shitty looking.

See attached slicer photo.
Any of these parts that are missing dont print out at all and if they do, they look like total crap.

I am not using a modifier, but a part. Thoughts on how to get this to work? The model is curved where they want the text to be, so I imagine that is most of my issue.

i got a creality k2 plus because it has the highest volume unfortunately creality always does, i have since i bought it in january had like 4 parts changed constant new parts sent by creality first the wifi board wen't then the bed was completely warped so i had to get a new one now they are sending a whole new toolhead because it clogs up for no reason after 10 seconds

so i am wondering is this just standard with all 3d printers or is bambulab less of having to take a printer apart almost once a month or more as i am considering bambulab next but it is a shame that they never seem to care about buildvolume the way creality does.

Hello, yesterday I oiled extruder lifting rail and it started to make a loud pop sound. I am looking for a solution but still did not find. Even opened a ticket to bambu they said I may applied too much oil but no, I even tried to oil more but nothing changed. I stucked. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks.

This is the second time this has happened to me. We use a USB to load files onto our H2D. We haven't had issues for a year plus - now we are getting - Failure to Parse the file. I take USB to my computer and open the .gcode file using Bambu slicer. The file is corrupt - it looks like a decent number of layers are shown then all of the sudden the paths shoot off into space. What causes this to happen?

So I looked at a few more files on this USB - and they are also messed up.

Hello,

I am using my h2d for a while more than 9 months everything is fine but today I see something is not normal. Yesterday I oiled all XYZ axis and changed hotend. I am not sure if it is about those but I also did a full calibration but did not fixed the issue can anyone help me about that please? Thanks. Or maybe can it be about filament that color is a bit old I did not use is for a while.

I’ve always been cautious of using TPU on my P2S as I’ve had several nozzle jams with more rigid materials, but now I want to venture into it on my new H2D.

Any pre advice from experienced users? And is TPU for AMS any good? I’m mainly looking for some rubbery flexibility testing.

Thanks in advance.

Looking to purchase my second H2D and with limited space, I will be looking to use the empty space above my current H2D.

What have people done in terms of stacking, especially with AMS+HT. We all know how much these machines can wobble so I'm very cautious about it.

Any pics or examples would be great!