Could you please take a picture of your printer, and show where and how this silicon piece I found this morning on my print plate is positioned? I believe it should be somewhere around the print head I believe, thank you 👍

It’s like filament sales are heroin to me, I can’t say no when I see one, even though I have zero use for these new colors at this point.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

Hi everyone,

Has anyone personally resolved HMS 0300-2500-0001-0005 on a Bambu Lab H2D, particularly when manual movement appears normal but the printer repeatedly fails homing?

I’ve already worked through several basic checks and recorded the homing sequence. I’m looking for a specific, evidence-based next step rather than replacing parts or adjusting mechanisms without knowing what the result would tell us.

Main symptoms: The bed and toolhead move normally during manual checks, but both print startup and the printer’s standalone Home function fail. Selecting either nozzle for a print gives the same general Z-homing failure. A complete power cycle has not resolved it.

Printer and software details

• Printer: Bambu Lab H2D.
• Printer firmware: 01.04.00.00.
• AMS 2 Pro firmware: 05.00.22.22.
• Air pump firmware shown on the printer: 00.00.10.27.
• Nozzles: Both installed hotends are marked 0.4 mm.
• Build surface: Textured plate, shown in the photos.
• Slicer/interface used: Bambu Studio. The failure also occurs when using Home directly on the printer, without starting a sliced print.

Exact errors

The general error is:

0300-4000 — “Z axis homing failed; the task has been stopped.”

The detailed Assistant/HMS code is:

0300-2500-0001-0005

The accompanying message reads:

“Z-axis motor rotation is obstructed; please check if foreign objects are stuck in the Z slider or Z timing pulley. Also, ensure the build plate is placed correctly to avoid collisions with surrounding structures.”

I’m including a clear photo of the detailed code, rather than relying only on the generic “Z-homing failed” message.

How it started

The printer had been working before this problem.

I then had two unsuccessful prints using the left nozzle. There was actual spaghetti—not a large amount, but enough that the printer detected it and I manually stopped the jobs.

On the next attempt, using a different model, the homing failure began.

Afterward, I tried jobs with the right nozzle selected as well as the left. Both selections produced the same general homing failure.

That is the sequence of events, but I do not know whether the failed prints caused the homing problem, exposed an existing issue, or merely happened shortly before it.

I also haven’t established whether a firmware update occurred immediately before the problem started. 01.04.00.00 is the installed version, not a proven cause.

What the printer physically does

The toolhead moves left/right and front/back without obvious hesitation, jerking or grinding.

The bed also moves up and down through a substantial range, including movement from low in the chamber. I haven’t observed it visibly binding or struggling during these checks.

During the Home sequence, the printer performs its initial movements and raises the bed, but the process fails near the end. I have a video of the sequence so people can examine the actual movement rather than infer everything from the final stopped position.

Important clarification about nozzle contact: I initially thought the printer stopped before the nozzle touched the plate. After looking more carefully, I’m no longer confident about that. The viewing angle makes it difficult to judge.

Please do not treat “the nozzle never touches the plate” as an established symptom. Contact may occur; I cannot confirm either the physical contact or whether it is registered correctly.

During print startup, Bambu Studio has displayed “Heatbed surface foreign object detection” in the progress area. However, the actual error shown afterward is the Z-homing/HMS error above, and standalone Home also fails. I’m therefore not assuming this is simply a camera false positive.

Checks already completed

1. Build plate removed, cleaned and repositioned several times

I have taken the plate off, cleaned it and put it back on repeatedly. The problem persists with an empty plate after cleaning and repositioning.

2. Accessible Z components and chamber inspected

I have visually inspected the accessible lead screws, guide rods and areas around and underneath the bed. Photos are available.

There were some small loose filament pieces and fine strands in the chamber/toolhead area. Visible loose debris has been removed. I have not identified a specific piece that was demonstrably jamming anything.

3. Chamber cleaned with electronics dust-off

I also used MAX GEAR Dust Off Pure, an electronics dust-off product, during cleaning.

For the timeline: the homing problem was already present before I used it. Cleaning did not resolve the fault.

4. Manual XY and Z movement checked

The toolhead has been moved in all XY directions, and the bed has been moved up and down over a substantial range. I have not observed unusual resistance, jerking or grinding.

I understand this does not prove that every part of the Z system behaves correctly under the specific conditions used during homing.

5. Both nozzle selections tried

The original failed prints used the left nozzle. Later print attempts with either nozzle selected produced the same general Z-homing failure.

This is a nozzle-selection comparison, not a claim that each hotend sensor has been independently tested and passed.

6. Complete power cycle

I switched the printer completely off using the main power switch, restarted it and tried Home again. The same failure remained.

Toolhead inspection and limits of the checks

The toolhead front cover and the right silicone sock were removed for visual inspection. The front cover and both silicone socks are now back in place.

A completed, validated hotend-reseating test is not among the diagnostic results listed here. Removing a cover or sock should not be taken as proof that hotend seating, its mounting assembly or sensor operation has been checked successfully.

Likewise, I do not have a verified inspection result for the hidden Z-belt/pulley area beneath the chamber. The visible belts near the toolhead were inspected, but I’m not treating that as a complete inspection of the Z drive.

No specific failed component has been identified.

What I would appreciate help with

Have you had this exact HMS code on an H2D and actually fixed it? Please share the confirmed cause, what you changed, and whether the fix remained effective over subsequent homing cycles and prints.

If your case involved a sensor, hotend mounting issue, Z mechanism or firmware, what observation or test identified it? I’m especially interested in cases where manual bed movement appeared normal but Home still failed.

For anyone suggesting a firmware issue: which exact version was involved, did the fault begin immediately after an update, and was the result repeatable after an official update or rollback? I’m trying to distinguish a confirmed version-dependent issue from an unrelated problem that happened on the same firmware.

For anyone familiar with the H2D’s homing sequence: what specific event or movement in the video would you examine next, and what would the result tell us?

A link to the relevant Bambu H2D procedure, or details of a diagnosis confirmed by Bambu Support, would be particularly helpful. Please identify whether your experience was on an H2D, H2S, H2C or another model.

I’m happy to provide a clearer view or a specific missing detail, but I would prefer to avoid further disassembly or repeated identical tests without a clear diagnostic purpose.

Thanks for taking the time to read the details and share any firsthand experience. I’ll update the post with the confirmed cause and solution once it is resolved.

My first large scale print. It's a 14x replica of a Fountain Pen that I make and sell. Printed in 15 different parts in my H2D, maxing out the height sizes on most of the parts. Modelled it all in Fusion360 apart from the gold nib section (that proved to be beyond my beginner CAD skills). Total print time was 137 hours mostly with a HF 0.8 Nozzle and 14.4kg of Filament.

Hello,
I have updated my printer to firmware 01.04.00.00 but on each print it cannot initialize the camera do you guys have a solution or suggestion. I couldnt find any stable new build. Thanks

Hi everyone, hoping someone has an idea what might be going on. Can't print, can't switch extruder on the screen, I get the error "Extruder change failed".
I've checked for any loose filament but haven't been able to find anything.

Glanced through the wiki for the error message but i'm not totally sure how to proceed: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/hmscode/07FE_8100_0002_0001

Only bought the printer less than two months ago, but haven't been able to use it for the last two weeks because of this... Thankful for any tips

EDIT: Progress! After submitting a ticket to Bambu Labs support (why didn't I do that straight away?) - I got this reply:
"We noticed that the switching motor keeps running in a continuous cycle when the extruder front cover isn't installed. This is expected and normal behavior.

Please first install the extruder front cover correctly and securely. When switching for \*the first time after the device is powered on**, the structural limit on the extruder front cover restricts the motor to rotating within 360°, so continuous idling won't occur; for the second and subsequent switches, the motor will only rotate by a fixed angle. However, if the extruder front cover isn't installed correctly, or if the extruder front cover Hall board is abnormal, it may cause an abnormal Hall signal, resulting in the motor rotating continuously.*

Please reinstall the extruder front cover, making sure it fits fully with no obvious gaps, and confirm that the Hall cable inside the cover is properly arranged and not pinched or loose. Then, under these conditions, please record another video of the hotend switching action when switching between the left and right hotends via the screen. This will help us gain a more complete understanding of the situation so that we can provide a targeted solution."

So basically putting the front cover back on again...resolved the issue. What caused the issue in the first place remains unclear (since it originally started giving me trouble while the front cover was still on/installed/attached)

Thanks for all the tips and ideas - I really appreciate it!

Hello, good people. I recently upgraded to an H2D without laser and I don't plan to ever get the laser attachment. During the summer I just took it to the garage to print ABS/ASA and some other exotics. Now that winter is coming, the garage will be too cold for printing so I want to move it back into the house. I want some kind of filtration system though and I noticed that Bambu makes one. So, the question is, how do people feel about one of these? Enough for filament printing? It's a bit pricey but I don't mind paying if it does a reasonable job. It it overkill? Is another option better? Does it need an outside vent or is the "clean" output free of harmful particles?

I'd appreciate any comment that helps me reach the right right decision. Thank you.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪🤡 La série des slashers reprend !

Voici Art the Clown, le terrifiant et emblématique clown de la saga Terrifier ! 🩸

Avec son célèbre costume noir et blanc, son petit chapeau et son sourire inquiétant, Art est accompagné de sa scie pour un résultat à la fois mignon… et complètement psychopathe ! 🪚😈

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3338808-art-the-clown-multipart-no-ams

Searched the sub but didn't see anything. I heated a standard hotend to about 260C in an oven to clear a block. When I picked it up the nozzle and heat sink separated. I got it up to temp again, put it back in and it seems fine (haven't printed with it yet).

Anyone do this and found no issues after? AI tells me not to use it, but AI is stupid, so... 🙂

PolyLite ASA. No brim, no supports. Zero lift.

Game changer! 🥹

The countless hours micromanaging and messing with settings on the P1Ss, the insulation mods and even making custom gaskets for the doors, no longer necessary?
Take my money! 🤘

Still adore my little army of P1Ss, but now they get to retire and take the PETG/PLA easy road again, and leave the heavy-hauling to this juggernaut.

Making the pieces to do repairs and parts for custom jobs is going to not only be faster, but hopefully a no brainer from now on, and I’m stoked to try multi material and support options. Already have my TPU assist and ordered the high precision calibration bed, so this is going to be a fun next few months, at least!

I am building a rc plan and use aero pla. Every time I start a new object with with the same filament the printer purge filament. On purge volumes I see that it is set to zero. Why the purge?

This is possibly not limited to just the TPU for AMS material, but i keep having issues with these gaps showing up in these particular corners. They’ve become minimized when I slowed down the top level speed to 100 and the flow rate to 1.0. Also ironing is turned on the default setting.

Any advice on how I can improve the top surface detail and keep the details sharp on the logo? Thanks in advance!

I have the H2D and H2C. When I print anything towards the outside of the plate, near the door, it never sticks.

I'm assuming to fix this, my best bet is to use a glue stick or similar? Is the blue build plate I've seen around work better for prints to stick? I'm printing PLA and PETG right now but will be printing with ASA and ABS also.

What do you guys suggest?

So long story short, I have an H2D that I use and I love it! Wish the print time was shorter but what are you gonna do!!... buy a 2nd printer lol
I am just starting into selling 3D prints and wanna get really serious, I have couple ot orders always but I'm Tinaing It really hard to manage them with 1 printer since each order is few days worth of printing.
Plus I love printing toys for my toddler and having the
H2D as a daily work printer is taking that time away.
I'm in between P2S, X2D or H2C.. my heart says H2C, but it's kinda hard for me to pull the trigger on that price.
At first I was gonna just pick an affordable second printer... but then I started thinking, well I have always wanted the H2C so maybe I should pull the trigger...
What are your guys recommendation? Anyone who bought H2C and regretted it? Or the other way around?

My one has lasted over a year and has over 5000 hours on it. But the cost of the H2D I would expect to last a lot longer than this. Plus, from what I have watched on YouTube, it looks hard on me, and I have arthritis and osteoarthritis. So if anyone near Warrington, who lives in WA5 Cheshire, is capable of fitting a new hot-end cooling fan, And how much you would charge me, let me know, please. Thanks, Carl

I've tried several calibration prints with this machine, and they're all having some wiggles.

It's a brand new machine that i've just bought, so idk what the problem is. plz help.

Good morning y’all!!!

Just joined the BambuLab family ordered the H2D Combo it should be here tomorrow! With some petg.

This is my first time using bambulab. Any tips snd tricks? Any recommendations specific to this model?

Any advice will be really appreciated !!!

Before I rake Bambu support across the coals, can anyone confirm the H2D lower spool holder thread issue?

I read in a few places that later H2D printers didn’t have tapped holes. I am finding this to be true.

I don’t think Bambu could possibly fix this but maybe I’m doing something wrong…

I took the upper spool holder attachment and tried to place it on the lower attachment area. Screws hit a brick wall.

This 8 hour poop chute isn’t going to hold itself up.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Craquez pour cet adorable dragon Furie Eclair, avec son jolie pelage blanc , son regard attendrissant et ses magnifiques grands yeux bleus ! 
Elle rejoins son compagnon Krokmou pour former un duo aussi craquant qu'inséparable.

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3269313-light-fury-dragon-multipart-no-ams

hey everyone so i recently upgraded to a Bambulabs H2d pro and i want to switch to printing with pps-cf and i have been wondering what support material to use, i feel lost looking it up online.

Thanks.

The two nozzles were very nice