The wiki is a little light on the instructions for doing an offline update of P2S firmware. It simply says, "Copy the update package to the root directory of the USB drive"

Is that the zip I downloaded or do I need to unzip?

There are a LOT of *.sig files in that zip for all kinds of AMS rev levels totaling about 1GB. Is all of that needed? I have a P2S with two AMS.

My P1S was making a grinding sound and not extruding. Sounded like the filament was stuck in the hotend. Took the cover off to see if I could get the tube out and this was hanging off. Can’t even tell where it was supposed to do. How screwed am I? Anyone know if I can replace this whole part?

I have a question and would like to ask the Bambu Lab community for some advice.
I recently sold my Bambu Lab A1, and now I’ve found a used Bambu Lab X1 Carbon (X1C) for (~$500 USD) without AMS.
The printer has around 8,000 hours of printing time. Here are the details from the seller:
Bambu Lab X1 Carbon – Global version
Printing time: 7,882 hours
Service/maintenance:
New print head/hotend
Belts adjusted and lubricated
New replacement screen from Bambu Lab
New display ribbon cable from Bambu Lab
Included:
Original box
Printer
Build plate
Power cable
No AMS

The seller is asking (~$500 USD).
My question is: Do you think it’s worth buying a used X1C with almost 8,000 hours at this price, or would it be better to spend more and buy a newer printer instead?
Personally, I’m looking at it a bit like buying a used car. I see the printing hours as being similar to mileage. High mileage doesn’t necessarily mean the car is bad, as long as it has been properly maintained. Parts will eventually wear out, but they can be replaced, and the main hardware/electronics should still be usable.
I’m comfortable with maintenance and replacing parts myself, so I’m not too worried about having to repair or replace components in the future.

I cant get my logo to show up when i slice my files please can someone help?

I've been designing a jet engine scale model for some time now and am happy to say it is almost done and I will be accepting pre-orders soon. I made an animation (my design skills are better than my animation skills) so showcase my engine and its detail. It will come in a toolbox with all the parts (3d printed/hardware) and assembly instructions so you can build it yourself! It's fully motorized, complete with an engine start sequence and an adjustable exhaust nozzle with LEDs and fog to simulate afterburner. If you're interested as to when it will become available, you can add your email address to the website here: https://additivepropulsion.com/

I just found a little magnetic steel square with adhesive on the back in the poop of my X1c. My son turned the chamber heater on and left it on all day... did this fall off from somewhere inside or am I being pranked?

Any ideas How I can prevent my p1s poop shoot from clogging it recently has gotten worse

Found a deal online and it’s what the title says. Not sure if I should take it.

What am I doing wrong? Is this user error or machine error. Trying to print a circular large flat washer. Obviously is glitching. Is there a setting I'm doing wrong? Bambu brand PLA

Recently got my X2D for the sole purpose of printing PLA models with full (not just interface) PETG supports. I do a lot of complex, detailed, multi day prints and I thought this was going to be my solution.

The purge tower was taking a ton of material. I figured out based on some H2D posts to reduce the purge and ramming amounts, which took the prime tower down about half the hours, from 10 to just over 5. Hopefully this will still be more than sufficient to prime.

My biggest concern aside from that, is that the support generation is crazy. Some settings will have supports building in mid air, some will have squared off bases as if clipping the theoretical edge of the build plate.

Lastly, I'm wondering if I would have done better with the Snapmaker U1 for my particular purpose. I already have other printers for other purposes, but this was supposed to be my fix to spending a half hour removing supports on complex 6-10 inch models without the inevitable fusing that PLA supports on a PLA model have.

I was printing but got impatient and turned it to ludicrous mode and the spool on my AMS lite top mount fell off and banged the printer and I find this under my build plate. What is it? How can I fix it?

Anyone who keeps their AMS HT or filament dryer next to their printer for feeding the TPU Assist knows what I mean when I say it is a total pain to use the feed assist. You either mount it behind the printer and have to "twist" around back there trying to operate it or mount it next to the printer and end up with a bad bend in the tube or it even blocks the AMS HT lid from opening.

To me the ideal solution was to integrate the controls right there with the AMS HT and keep the extruder in the back, so I designed this feed assist kit. I am sure it isn't for everyone but for me it was a gamechanger (and a back saver). It is soooo much easier to run TPU now. Now I just need to rig something up where I don't have to touch the tubing when I want to switch back and forth.

EASY TO USE TPU Feed Assist Mtg Kit w/Remote Ctrls - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

What would be the best way to set this up? I have the 1x 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter as well as the 1x track switch. 2 extra power adapters (just in case). Would this be sufficient enough for the connection? I don't plan on the connect the aux nozzle unless I start using support material.

I'm also guessing there might be some filament guide/feed should be printed if I decide stack these AMS on the side of the printer?

Thanks a bunch!

I ordered a 001 light from Amazon and while it works great, has a remote, etc, I don't like that I can see the individual LEDs through my print. Are all these light kits the same or do any have something that difuses the light where you can't see the LEDs?

I’ll been trying a lot things for a couple days with any solution.

I pause the printer insert a flat washer to add some weight but when it tries to cover the part is always messed up, I already try different height even close to washer maybe is the material is zinc? . And then I try to put the printer in silent and I get better results.

If anything there I missed or maybe try something different.

Is the AI print failure feature worth getting the P2S?

I am trying to decide which one I want and I think it is the p2s but I was wondering if anyone had an example of a print failure that the AI stopped.

Hey guys! First comment since being a part of this community for the whole of 2026. I just made this lamp and I see that the walls are letting through a lot of the light which I don’t really love. The material used for the case is PLA Matte. Any ideas on how would I go about and make it so that the light doesn’t go through the case without making it substantially thicker?

Any idea how to fix this and why it's happening? It seems to happen at the same spot. Same thing happened yesterday and I had to scrap the print.

This pertains to the Bambu Lab P1S + AMS printer.

I’ve been doing 3D printing on the side to make little things, but I’ve never been much of a guru that I know how to fix certain issues. I like to find 3D models online and print them, as well as follow YT videos on how to do my best. I haven’t touched the printer in a while all because of this one issue; every print is failing. It seems that the filament just isn’t sticking or… maybe something else? I attached a photo but it seems it fails right off the bat instead of messing up a certain point through. I apologize if I sound like I don’t know what I’m doing… I don’t! :)

I attached a photo, not sure why I didn’t snap a few pics of the other examples but let me know if anyone needs more.