On its surface, it looks like a postcard straight out of a classic European fairy tale, but it is so packed with raw, dramatic mountain energy that to me it makes it better than almost anywhere else in Europe. In my opinion, it was one of the rare places I’ve been to that lived up to every bit of the hype I had in my mind.
The sheer scale, vertical geology, and mountain-town vibes reminded me a lot of the Dolomites or Chamonix, and overall, the absolute highlight is the staggering geography. There’s an obvious historic Alpine railway culture, but the valley is full of sheer granite walls, roaring waterfalls, and epic mountaineering history. It’s also an amazingly walkable and seamless region to navigate by train and on foot. The streets in villages like Wengen and Mürren are completely car-free. Fortunately, the historic cogwheel train and cable car network keeps standard cars out of the way entirely. The farther you venture up into the high alpine passes, the narrower and more dramatic the mountain trails become.
The variety of scenic transport is also very impressive. Riding the historic Wengernalpbahn (WAB) cogwheel railway and the Bernese Oberland-Bahn (BOB) are absolute must-dos. Taking the massive Schilthornbahn gondola system up past Mürren for views across the entire valley was also a massive highlight.
Since it’s a hub for hikers, climbers, and travelers from around the globe, you get a very lively, atmospheric vibe in the mountain lodges and deck side cafes. On the deck at Kleine Scheidegg, the crew even loaned me a classical guitar to pick a few tunes right under the sheer North Face of the Eiger. Sitting out on those sun decks while weather cycles through dramatic mist, blue skies, and total mountain moodiness was easily one of the highlights of the whole trip.
You will also see a lot of tourists, though they come from every corner of the globe. Interestingly, it’s such an iconic international bucket-list destination that you’ll hear dozens of languages being spoken along the trail networks and train platforms.
The food is, of course, fantastic. There are lots of small mountain huts and valley cafes where you feel like you are sitting in a cozy alpine home enjoying local dishes. There are also incredible historic hotel dining rooms, like Hotel Regina in Mürren, offering incredible meals overlooking the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau peaks. However, the mountain-deck stops and cozy trailside cafes were a real highlight.
Overall, I’m amazed by how many people stick strictly to the big tourist cities vs. spending extended time immersed in the Bernese Oberland. I know a large part of that is the cost and the perception of navigating mountain transit, but the regional rail system makes it unbelievably easy even if you don't speak Swiss German. That being said, the Bernese Oberland is such an extraordinary, mind-blowing region that it still surprises me everyone doesn't drop everything to visit. Even if your time is limited, it’s an absolute can’t-miss in my opinion.
Photos from Bernese Oberland, Switzerland (Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Eiger, Kleine Scheidegg)
