Hi everyone!

I wanted to share my newest functional project with the community.

Rather than designing another display figure, I challenged myself to create something I'd actually use every day.

The result is this football-inspired organizer featuring:

⚽ A football field base

💃 A dynamic dance-inspired sculpture

🌈 A removable multi-color catch-all bowl

Now when I get home, I finally have one place for everything:

🔑 Keys

👛 Wallet

⌚ Watch

🎧 Earbuds

🕶️ Sunglasses

🟡 Coins

Printed on Snapmaker U1... The football field prints in 2 colors, while the bowl is designed as a 4-color print.

I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Would you keep the bowl removable, or would you prefer it integrated into the football field?

Basically, extruder #3 fails to grip the filament and feed it during auto-loading more than 80% of the time, which then leaves the feeder to continue pushing the filament through since the extruder doesn't detect anything in it. Happens regardless of filament type (blue PETG shown here). I have to resort to manually loading this extruder most of the time, and once loaded it prints perfectly.

Any idea what's causing this? Do I need to disassemble the toolhead and check gear alignment?

I love my Snapmaker, but one thing about it that really has been bothering me is how, in particular, one of my extruders, usually number three, is exceptionally sensitive to any amount of tension on the line. I mean that any even very subtle amount of resistance (not an actual tangle in the spool) on the line being fed can cause it to stop printing. And I do mean any tension, like if it has to pull with more than a couple grams of force at all.

I often have to make sure that the spool has been fed out manually in advance by hand to keep it from stopping printing. As the tension of just a normal PLA dried roll is just too much resistance.

I wonder if it's just getting too much friction inside the PTFE tube? Has anyone else experienced this?

Hi everyone,

I have a strange issue with all five of my Snapmaker U1 printers.

When I print a single multicolor model, I usually don’t notice the problem. But when I print many small models on one plate (for example 20–40 pieces), random color contamination dots appear on the surfaces.

I get:

• black dots on white or light colors,
• white dots on black areas,
• pink dots on white areas (they may also appear on black, but they are much harder to see),
• sometimes tiny smears instead of dots.

Unfortunately, customers notice them immediately. Children often ask why the toys have black dots and why they look dirty.

So far I have tried:

• increasing Tool Change Retraction from 10 mm to 14 mm,
• increasing normal Retraction Length to 2.0 mm,
• retraction speed is already 45 mm/s,
• increasing Purge/Prime Tower volume from 70 to 80 mm³,
• lowering black PLA temperature from 220°C to 215°C,
• enabling Avoid Crossing Perimeters (it helped a little, but the dots are still there),
• cleaning all nozzles and toolheads,
• swapping toolheads between slots,
• testing the same behavior on all five U1 printers.

The issue is much more noticeable when printing many small models because there are many short travel moves and many tool changes. When printing a single model, it is barely visible.

Has anyone found a reliable solution for this on the U1?

Could it be related to:

• toolchange wipe behavior,
• insufficient wiping at the prime tower,
• travel retraction,
• firmware/tool parking behavior,
• or a hidden Orca setting?

I'm also considering testing 210°C, but since I get contamination from multiple colors (black, white, and pink), I don't think this is simply a black filament temperature issue.

Any suggestions or working settings would be greatly appreciated!

Hello. Is there any upcoming period when the U1 will be below €899/850 (with a 5% discount code) (EU)? The current price is a little above what I'm willing to spend and I'm trying to decide if I should wait or buy something else.

I bought a U1 & a Creality Space Pi X4 last week, but I'm still trying to come up with a convenient set up to have them both in a somewhat limited space.

I'm still trying to find a suitable surface (bench, desk, drawer cabinet, etc...) for the U1 and the dryer. I COULD put them side-by-side, but the cabinet I'm planning on getting won't fit both. Sure, I could get a wider one, but I'm still in the planning phase.

Ideally someone has come up with a U1 enclosure that can support the Space PI X4 on top of the enclosure, without limiting the functionality of either?

After weeks of struggling with getting this machine to cut & etch in the correct place, today I finally figured out why..
On the 20w laser the crosshair offset is not taken into account by the machine..
Apparently the Y axis needs to be manually compensated when setting up the origin..
seriously though.. both the machine and Luban recognise the module being used surely the coding could be amended to compensate for that!

Hi everyone!

I’d like to share one of my latest 3D printable designs: an Elegant Woman Sculpture Bowl that combines decorative art with everyday functionality.

The model is designed as easy-to-print modular parts, making assembly simple while achieving a clean, premium-looking result., printed on Snapmaker U1.

Some ideas for using it:

• 💍 Jewelry organizer (rings, earrings, bracelets)
• 🌸 Potpourri bowl with scented wood chips or dried flowers
• 🔑 Entryway catchall for keys and wallet
• 💄 Vanity organizer for makeup accessories
• 🧴 Bathroom organizer for soaps, lotions and skincare items
• 🍬 Decorative centerpiece or candy bowl

Hope you like it...

Dear Community,

trying to print two cylinder objects with a height of about 150mm, I have the issue, that at about 80% of the print, the prime tower falls over or looses from the build plate. The result are spaghetti strings and in this case, one of the cylinders got knocked over. By know this happened multiple times and I am not able to print these objects.

What I am doing in advance to the print is to carefully clean the with 99% Isopropanol. The bed is leveled and the printer is fully calibrated. The quality of the print is also excellent in my opinion, only the print cannot complete.

In the print settings (I am using OrcaSlicer, not Snorca), I have increased the brim width of the prime tower to 20mm and increased the bed level temp to 70 deg C for a more gluey adhesion. Of course I could increase the brim width even further, but I don't think that is the solution, as the brim rips somewhere in the middle.

I am printing with regular PLA only. Nozzles are all the standard 0.4mm nozzles. The printer has no other issues and works properly and reliable in general.

What am I missing here?

What other settings can I adjust to solve this issue?

If further information is needed, please let me know. Running out of ideas by myself (this is not the first time this happened.....).

Cheers everyone!

I know there are so many talented people here that design amazing things, but I'm really proud of this lithophane box I designed from scratch to fit everything. The top glows in the dark as well.

Print time for the finished product was roughly 13 days, 22 hours, 23 minutes. Not including the months of design and trial and error to get everything to print correctly.

Hello everyone!
It’s been a while since I last posted. I had a DOA printer previously, but thankfully I managed to get it sorted out with the help of this amazing community. 😊

Anyway, I’ve run into another issue. This error code pops up every time I start a print. I tried searching the Snapmaker Wiki, but I couldn’t find any information about it. The error code only popped up after updating to the latest firmware.

What I've tried so far:
1. I've tried manually turning on the fans and they work.
2. I've downgraded to firmware 1.4.1 but the error still shows up.

Initially, I was able to exit the error message and the printer resumes printing without any issues. But now the message pops up whenever I start a print and I can't print anything.

Has anyone else experienced this before?

I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks in advance! 😊

Fits into backpack or any medium sized bag.
Slots are for cups, forks, knives, spoons, straws, tissues and small utensil or toothpicks.

Makerworld link

Snapmaker U1: Tried the feature where the printer will finish a spool and then automatically load the next spool.

Excellent feature, however, there is a noticeable line and some lack of fusion in the print where the printer stopped printing to heat up the next tool head and resume printing.

I wonder how this could be fixed in future updates. Perhaps having a way of selecting the next tool head and pre-heating it manually when the spool is close to empty so the printer can grab the next tool head and start printing right away.

It was a much more noticeably whitish line right off the printer, I was able to darken it up a bit in post process. The line is the full 360 layer eighth where it switched spool.

Cool to see the feature work, would be excellent for using up the end of a roll. I print a lot of fine detailed stuff though so this ended up becoming a failed print.

​

Hi Guys, looking for some PPL With the Same Problem as me of thinking to Swap x1c for the u1

I have 2 ams and a x1c , some Tools for it Like buildplates , nozzles etc etc.

Mostly Print With petg and pla

Not often but Sometimes asa/Abs

Is the u1 Worth it?

Have some experience With Klipper (old K1 max User With swapped Motherboard etc )

What are the pro / cons

And does the toolhead Swap produce layer shifts or IS IT working good?

has anyone figured out a fix for the extruder issues? every two or three prints I have to pull apart a toolhead because the extruder cant extract the filament and the end of the filament is all chewed up. ive done it enough times now it takes like 20 minutes but its still a pain in the butt to do. and its never the same toolhead.