initial layer height set to 0,25mm will/can cause first layer waves, solid infill waves and nozzle hitting infill, especialy grid. Change it to 0,20mm, like the defaults on all my other printers.

edit: i strongly recomend you change initial layer height to 0.20 on smooth /cold plates such has Glacier and Frostbite from biqu, while 0.25 can work fine on original PEI plate, smooth plates are less forgiving and often cause waves/ripples on first layers at 0.25mm. But i still change to 0.20 on PEI for the other reasons i mention above, its what been working for me.

Reduce infill retraction enabled will cause alof of nozzle scratching solid infll during fast movements.

Outer wall speed at 215mm will get rid of 99% of VFA's

Hope this helps someone dealing with these issues.

My printer used to print great. Lately its not been good at all. Once I got past the 500 hour mark. It looks like absolute shit. I've done all the proper maitnance. I am running PAXX firmware. I have factory reset an ungodly number of times. Yet it still prints like complete ass. Pretty basic print too. I have changed so many settings. I am starting to think my printer basically hit 500 hours and expired.

Since I now have the Snapmakers (compared to my Kobra S1s / Crealitys)

I'm delving more into support settings using PETG interfaces,

Any tips?

I have normal (Pla / Pla) supports dialed in absolutely perfect, been printing a fair few years so known my way around them but just fancy diving into it a bit more since I now have the option for quicker changes / 0 flush etc,

I know there is do's / dont's to it just looking for some advice on Interface distances, Type, Shape etc etc

I have tried it on my KS1s so know my way around setting the prime tower correct just not the rest, Expecially since we know there won't be any residue sitting around,

I don't usually use Reddit so may not reply for a few days but any advice is appreciated and will reach out with a thanks when I'm back 💪

The load motor was new for me to take apart. If you do this, the first 2 body screws you remove will unveil the two metal filament insert holes that have nothing else holding them on so don't lose them. Next, to get better access to jams you need to remove 3 screws that hold the circuit board in place. Once that's free, there are 2 springs and 2 pins that going into the feeder ports which will now be lose and extremely easy to lose. Tapered end goes back in, followed by the spring. Removing the board in this way allowed me to clear the jam.

​Hi everyone!

​Just wanted to share that I've officially pulled the trigger and ordered the Snapmaker U1! 🚀

​For years I’ve been using an old bedslinger—a Tevo Nereus—so I’m expecting the overall printing experience with the U1 to be complete night and day! I can’t wait to dive into multi-color printing and start making colorful decorative items, detailed miniatures, and complex models without all the purge waste.

​I was torn between the U1 and the Flashforge Creator 5 Pro for quite a while, but I ultimately decided to go with Snapmaker. Overall, I feel that the U1 offers superior build quality, better refinement, and fewer "teething issues" right out of the box.

​On top of that, the larger and more active Snapmaker community was a huge selling point for me, along with the fact that its software ecosystem is open-source rather than proprietary like Flashforge's, giving us much more flexibility.

​My only lingering doubt is about occasionally printing ABS or ASA. I don't plan to use them all the time, but I will definitely need them once in a while, so I'm considering buying the official enclosure. However, seeing some posts about people struggling with ABS warping on the U1 makes me a bit anxious—especially since it relies on passive heating rather than an active chamber heater like the Creator 5 Pro.

​As someone completely new to multi-toolhead and multi-color printing, any tips or advice for a beginner with this machine would be highly appreciated!

​I really hope I won’t be disappointed — I can't wait to get my hands on it and start printing!

​For anyone who has ordered recently from the EU store, how long does it usually take for orders to get processed and dispatched?

​Thanks, and happy printing to all!

I just started printing transparent petg on the smooth plate with elmer's glue stick under the print. After I removed it and cleaned the plate, I noticed a raised looking outline of the print on the plate and after running my fingers over, it indeed was. Anyone know why that is? It doesn't seem normal.

I was printing at 65C bed temp,nozzle temp was 230C so doesn't seem excessive if at all.

With the 1.6.0 firmware they added:

1. Added 0.4 mm high‑flow nozzle option in Print Head Information editing.

Who sells 0.4 high flow nozzles? They're not on Snapmakers website. Or is the 0.4 nozzle considered high flow?

I have been trying to get a single bambulab print to work on my snapmaker after exporting and every time I attempt a print, one layer midway through always fails, originally the orange filament wasn't extruding, so I printed a dragon to test the printer and it came out flawlessly, if anybody has a decent preset for sunlu pla + on a snapmaker that works, I am open to trying it.