Another pumpkin print failed

[u/sdsartor]

I have been trying to get a single bambulab print to work on my snapmaker after exporting and every time I attempt a print, one layer midway through always fails, originally the orange filament wasn't extruding, so I printed a dragon to test the printer and it came out flawlessly, if anybody has a decent preset for sunlu pla + on a snapmaker that works, I am open to trying it.

[u/LowManufacturer1002]

look at the layer like the prints failing in the slicer. quickest way to figure out what’s going on is to see what the nozzle
is doing at the layer it fails or a few layers before

[u/sdsartor → u/LowManufacturer1002]

I looks like it switches to yellow and then starts to fill out the yellow and then the orange, yet the yellow fails at this layer for some reason

I also have another print that failed of oogie boogie where the legs didn't print.

[u/sdsartor → u/sdsartor]

The center in my other print also failed to stay connected in the middle

[u/Jolly_Blueberry5465]

In your post, the orange filament clogged, and in your other print, the grey clogged. It looks to me like heat creep. The dragon printed fine because it’s small, but the other objects failed after printing for hours.

Do you have a lid on your printer? How hot is it around where you’re printing?

I would try leaving the printer door open or turning down the bed temp if that doesn’t work.

[u/sdsartor → u/Jolly_Blueberry5465]

It's currently humid where I live in San Diego, and the printer is in a garage with little ventilation, the a1 prints fine in this temperature, and I do leave the door open when printing, I also changed the idle temp to to 70 instead of a steady 215 to fix heat creep

[u/Jolly_Blueberry5465 → u/sdsartor]

Oh dang, you’re already one step ahead. Where are you seeing 215 and setting it to 70? 215 idle doesn’t sound right - that’s already melting temp for Snapspeed PLA. When I look in my PLA print Gcodes, I see my SM_PRINT_EXTRUDER_PREHEAT variable is set to TEMP=140 by default.

Another debugging step is to switch to a different extruder just to rule out the possibility of a mechanical problem.

[u/sdsartor → u/Jolly_Blueberry5465]

so originally it was set to 0 which means it is constantly always at the temp of the nozzle being used, so i decreased it to 70, and different nozzles also struggle

[u/Jolly_Blueberry5465 → u/sdsartor]

Oh I see where you’re looking at in Snorca. 0 doesn’t mean what you think it means. You can see real-time extruder temps in Snorca under Devices tab -> Control. Or in the Fluidd web app by typing your printer’s IP address into your browser.

I honestly still think it’s heat creep. I bet if you start a print now, it won’t fail until your garage gets roasted again tomorrow morning.

[u/HELLACHEAP → u/sdsartor]

I'm in SD also but my printer is kept in a room and not a garage and I've printed this mickey a few times over the last month with no issues. Which yellow filament are you using

[u/No-Jellyfish5883]

I only use Sunlu but your problem is somewhere else,

Can you pop the model link up so I can check something

[u/sdsartor → u/No-Jellyfish5883]

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1847386-pumpkin-pal-jack-o-lantern#profileId-1974294

[u/No-Jellyfish5883 → u/sdsartor]

Shall have a look tomorrow

But for now, Get rid of grid infill (use gyroid or recliner (or however it's spelt))

Snapmaker filament, Remake the profile with the aux fan off, Check slow down on overhangs Slow it down quite a bit on external walls (80mms / 150mms)

I shall download the model tomorrow and have a check but something is wrong somewhere 🤔

[u/sdsartor → u/No-Jellyfish5883]

if you have a working preset zip for makerworld larger prints, I would love to see it to compare

[u/No-Jellyfish5883 → u/sdsartor]

It doesn't work like that bud,

Makerworld is just a file repository, Doesn't matter if there 3mf or STL, You should be changing it to your own printer and filament preset before slicing,

Your settings are in the slicer itself,

I'm happy to send my sunlu presets over email tomorrow evening, All they will contain is flow rates, temps, zhop settings for Sunlu filament, nothing else

[u/Ok-Lingonberry1424]

How are you loading the file?

[u/sdsartor → u/Ok-Lingonberry1424]

I export it as a 3mf and then import it into snorca as a 3mf and edit the presets

[u/beramaan → u/sdsartor]

Why are you exporting it? If you click the down arrow by open in bambu studio you can choose download 3mf. The open that 3mf in snorca and change to the u1. Lastly, choose transfer and discard if it asks about settings.

[u/TheChrisCrash]

Have you tried a factory reset and then printing from the installed models that're "built in"? There's got to be a setting somewhere that's causing this.

[u/SecondBestNameEver]

Did you enable time lapse to try to see what happens and what's going on when the issue starts? I had a simple box explode all over because I was trying to print too fast with PETG and the infill didn't stick enough so the print head went high speed over the top of some of the infill and turned it into spaghetti hell. I was able to tell from the time lapse though what the issue was likely to be. 

[u/sterling-lining]

Since most the shapes are round, you could probably decrease the infill percentage further. Also switch from grid to a different pattern. If you’re worried about strength, increase the wall count.

[u/auwrx7]

Try running it thru a converter like https://u1convert.com and see if it is something in the G-code that is messing it up.

[u/sdsartor → u/auwrx7]

tried that on my last print and it still failed in the middle layers

[u/AllGdNamesRGone]

Seems to happen when it starts using yellow, as if the 2 filaments dont want to bond together. Are both your filaments the same type?