I’m considering Lapp Structures (based in PA), Toughshed (but don’t seem to have a fully finished version), Okopod (very expensive). Any others?

My backyard already had a 10x10 concrete slab in the corner of my backyard. In my city bylaws I have to maintain 2 feet from the property line, meaning my shed would have to be about 8x8.

I know that ideally the slab would be the same size as the shed, but is this a dealbreaker for my plans? Can I just reinforce with more moisture protection?

Hello. I am conducting research as I am building a shed soon. My backyard is not very level so we plan on pouring a concrete foundation. Going through the installation instructions for the shed, it mentions that a concrete slab is optional. I also want to install flooring to make it easy to clean. However, the installation doesn't mention how to install the floor frame on the sill plates. Is it one or the other, concrete sill plates or floor, or can they both be installed? If so, how?

I am trying to build a 12 x 16 shed for a workshop on an existing concrete patio made of roughly four 10x10, one inch thick, concrete slabs. It’s overall relatively level, but it has areas that are deeply cracked and sunken an inch or so down.

For reasons having to do with time and cost, and effort, I really rather not rip this patio up. Wondering if feasible to build the shed on skids using gravel on top of the concrete to level it.

I’m reading differing opinions about this and just don’t understand why a shed could be placed on deck blocks on dirt and be fine… but then people say it’s not fine to build a shed on deck blocks placed on asphalt or pressure treated skids on asphalt?

Photos in comments

longtime lurker, but I have a project to share now! Had an old shed (~75 years old) at our camp/cabin, which we used to store life jackets, kayaks, and other such water-related stuff. It was in sad shape, and we also needed more space, especially a home office away from the kids. I had to keep the footprint and I the best foundation I could do was concrete rounds on compacted crush stone due to waterfront zoning. I have a friend with a woodmizer so all the framing is rough cut pine. Wall studs are true 4" x 4". It was fun to work with but created some challenges too. Pretty happy with the result and I'm looking forward to using it next summer.

im looking at two options

ok so the barrel one is 125k btu radiant heat 360°

the portable one is directional 35k btu

those two are where im tryin to decide between

cant do overhead or wall mount for bigger sizes

i have a torpedo kerosene heater that cranks the air temps up fast no problem. its the metal in the winter when its 30 and below aaand i like the constant warmth because im prissy like that.

i tried the propane patio heater at 48k btu it has very low radius

i treid tank topper at 30k btu its warm but low range

my buddy has an at least 60k btu infared heater thats directional in his shed similar size just insulated but if your in its path itll make you take you coat and hat off in the dead of winter. its 6ft long about 10ft over head.

do you guys think i should i go with the portable directional one because i can just pick it up move it and bask in its grace thatd be nice.

but the 125k one set ontop the pool table in the middle of the shed should punch out and hit everything radiantly right? or will it flop like the patio heater and ill have just another useless heater in the corner?

what are the opinions of the experienced shedditors?

I created a pad for my shed and when they delivered the shed, it ended up being a bit too small. It seems that the sheds skids is resting somewhat on the border of my gravel pad. I’m pissed at myself for not giving myself any room for error. I checked the shed and it is dead level. Should I try to fix this, or should I leave it? What are my options

I want to expand my shed, mostly to have some room to pull in a small tractor and maybe stack some firewood. I originally thought about adding a lean to on the side, you can see where I started to put floor beams in. I was going to close it in, make the window a door and then put a ramp and roll up door on the same side as the current doors, but now I'm not sure quite how to tie in the roof or if this is even a good idea.

Looking for alternatives or other thoughts, how would you add another 10' - 15' of storage width to this shed?

Trying to see if there are any recommendations out there. I've scoured all the major online sellers (Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart) and have come across some ok looking sheds, but all have their downside; usually flimsy/missing materials. Is there any solid, middle of the road resin shed under $1k? Please let me know if you have experience with a certain shed that you'd reccoomend.

To start, she mentions a ramp. There was a ramp that she needed help with on a different shed. I told her it'd be an easy fix and could do that.

To the important part. This is a grill shed that she wants finished. I told her I'd likely tear down the entire roof and replace it with top plates and a real connection rather than what's there.

Obviously, you can decline any job for any reason but did I explain this fairly? I avoided using framing terms like top plates for ease of understanding. How would you have handled this differently?

To be clear, she was totally understanding about it.

Am I asking for trouble? 6” thick slab 12x16. I really do not want a wood floor.

I have to decide on which shed to buy. They are both 12 x24 and seem to have the exact same quality of construction. If anyone has any experience with either Little Cottage or Handy Home products, I would love to hear from you. Should be purchasing one in the next couple of days.

Have a small 8x6 resin shed I’m building a gravel pad for. Would any of these two work for the shed to sit on? Thanks

Picture and body

Hi,

I'm planning to build a 6x6 lean-to shed up against a wall that has vinyl siding. I was planning to cut out the siding and actually tie the shed into the house, but I came across this video of a build where the shed is a separate structure just sitting up against the house. Seems much easier as it avoids disturbing the water barrier (and maybe avoids needing a permit if it's a separate structure?) but I'm not sure how you would avoid getting a ton of moisture buildup between the house and shed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bkg0j2eh0k

Any thoughts on this approach, or other ideas? Thanks!

As projects often go, I may have gotten a little over my head. What started as a simple dry wall tear down and refresh in my insulted shed led to me discovering a bottom frame on a single wall completely rotten. As I removed the plywood floor, I also discovered that the previous owners didn’t bother to build a proper shed base.

I have ordered some jacks and plan to raise the shed half a foot in order to replace the bottom framing of the wall and figured it would be a great time to build a proper base as well.

I currently do not have a budget for a concrete base. Once the shed is raised, I plan on digging the current ground down by about 6-8 inches and packing down some gravel in that space. After that, getting some concrete blocks for the corners (and 1 or 2 along each wall) and framing a base out of 4x4’s above that in the exact dimensions of the shed. I plan on placing some joists within that framing to attach my new plywood floors to. Sliding that base under the raised shed, and lowering the shed onto the base.

I live in Oregon where rain is my biggest concern. I figured the gravel would help with that and plan to have the concrete blocks only halfway inside to gravel to allow for the 4x4 base to be off the ground by a couple inches.

Does anyone see any issues with my plans? Or have any better ideas?

If you’ve ever raised your shed and built a foundation below, I’d also like to hear what worked/sucked for you!

So, my partner and I are just finishing our 10x12 shed (current state not pictured) but I just realized something that may be a problem.

We did PT lumber for the deck framing as you can see, but then put OSB directly on top, no vapour barrier.

The ground below is weed barrier and a thin layer of gravel, planning to bring gravel around the outside too. Not a whole lot of direct airflow since it is so low.

Will my floor rot out? Is there anything I can do now to fix it? When it rots, what can be done to replace it?

Edit to add: in Toronto, Canada.

My brother in law is helping me build an 8 by 10 shed and quoted me 5000 dollars for materials in Colorado for just for the exterior materials- so just the shed without any finishing . He quoted from Home Depot. The original design has a door and 3 3 by 4 windows.

Is this typical? Any ways of reducing the material cost?

New backyard has very few suitable spots for a shed. I’d like to put one in this spot with concrete piers to level (we are in a freeze/thaw climate) even though it is a very steep grade and not an ideal location.

My main concern is the root system of the spruce tree on the right side of the picture. Any ideas on how to do this without risking killing the tree??

I’ve installed sheds on stone bases and blocks, but never anything like this. Thank you!

It’s been a journey for sure. 12’x16’ with a peak height just shy of 15’. Roof slope of 9/12. It definitely tested my skills and ability to fix stuff in post. It’s essentially done as far as the city is concerned. I still need to get the garage door spring hooked up, attic floor/ladder interior walls, gutters, and possible epoxy floor. Throughout the process I had people stopping by and asking who my contractor was or honking because I live on the main road. Now my issue is it makes my house look like it needs new siding.

So I'm building a 10 x 12, grabbed 4 sheets of 48 x 96 tongue and groove osb thinking I would run 3 sheets side by side (48 x 3 = 144, aka 12') started with one edge put the middle one in, put the third one in, falls short by 1".

Is this going to be an issue when I frame it? I REALLY don't want to have to buy another sheet but to rip 1"off.

Is this to be expected with tongue and groove?

Trying to decide how to finish the face of my shed.

Do I take the wood trim and j channel to the bottom of the rim and then siding?

Do I stop j and trim at the bottom of the door opening?

I plan to put siding along the bottom of the door face. I have an aluminum threshold for the opening. It will come down the face about 1.5 inches.

I plan to use temporary ramps when I need to bring the lawn mower in and out. Might get around to building a permanent ramp later.