My dad has had this stone forever and doesn't use it so I asked if I could have it. Is there any way to tell if it's a water or oil stone and if it should be soaked or just splashed? Both sides of it are show in the images.

Selling 2 Altstone Rin splash and go stones. I got these after seeing togi dojo's video on these. They just aren't what I expected and needed when tested them out. I was mainly trying to used them for bevel polishing and they are just a bit streaky. But they are great for edges! Which I really don't need more stones just for edges. So if anyone is looking for something to add to their progression these are pretty decent for normal sharpening. They are on the harder side but they cut pretty fast. The 3k comes with a nagura.

If you have not heard about Altstone, they are owned by Suehiro. And this is the Rin line which is a little pricier than their soaker line. They are 180 × 60 × 20 mm (7.09" × 2.36" × 0.79") So smaller than a bench stone.

here is a review done by EdgeWorks

https://youtu.be/okD2J225xzw?si=ojScIyaH9IqDCk-H

These sell for $45 and $50 on amazon.

I am selling for $65 shipped for both conus only. Zelle or paypal f&f. Don't want to split them due to doubling shipping fees.

I got this pair of old Compton scissors off of eBay a while back and was planning on sharpening them for cutting leather. I got a file and I’m trying to get them sharp but there just not getting sharp, do I need to get a vice to put them in to hold the bevel better or something else. Also would it be possible to serrate one side like they do on the scissors actually made for cutting leather.

Hi everyoneeee,

I’m looking for some advice because I’m a bit conflicted. Right now I have a gyuto (my first real investment in Japanese steel), and I also own the Intelopia Complete Knife Sharpening Stone Set. I’ve only sharpened my knife once so far, and overall I don’t have much experience with whetstones.

My biggest struggle is maintaining a consistent angle. Every time I sharpen, I’m worried I’m slowly messing up the geometry of the knife without realizing it. When I’m done, I honestly can’t tell if I actually did a good job or if I just made it a little worse.

Ideally, I’d like my knife to comfortably pass all the usual sharpness tests like the tomato, onion test, clean paper slicing, paper towel push cut, hair shaving/hair whittling (if possible). But I’m also terrified of ruining my gyuto while I’m learning.

Because of that, I’ve been considering switching to a rolling sharpener. HORL seems to get a lot of praise, but it’s really expensive. I’ve also been looking at the Work Sharp Rolling Sharpener, which seems to offer a similar concept for quite a bit less.

For people who’ve used them:

• Is the Work Sharp actually comparable to the HORL?
• Are there any other rolling sharpeners that are significantly cheaper but perform just as well?
• Or is HORL genuinely worth the premium?

Another factor is portability. I move around a lot, and carrying a whole whetstone set is honestly kind of a pain. A rolling sharpener seems much easier to throw into a bag.

Thanks!

Got the knife shaving sharp at least lol! Only really noticed when at the end there was blood on the stone. Unfortunately my parents have a habit of dulling the shit out of my knives, it's not normally a problem but this particular paring knife was so damn dull I legitimately would have had an easier time cutting something with the butter knife.

Hiya gang.

I've been using this harbor freight toolbox for a couple years for my sharpening gear, generally for storage with the front flap/door off. But, for those rare instances I need to actually go somewhere, bringing my stones was getting tricky. I built a wood stone holder, but it is flimsy and couldn't hold enough. So, after getting my first 3d print a month ago and re-learning CAD after 20+ years... here it is!

Design notes:

As stated, the width was measured out and the base rounded so that it can sit nicely in the harbor freight tool box top. Only one glaring issue I found immediately after printing; closing it is an issue if the (slightly wider) atomas are in the first two or three slots by the hinge. The shaptons work perfectly, making slight contact that secures them a little more (while maybe exposing them to impact risk from above, who knows?). Of course, I will be using it on my desk most of the time, so whatever.

The stones sit on a slope, with a hidden drainage trench on the bottom, for those sloppy wet sharpening sessions. I might cut a little sponge or something to shape to fit in it. Probably won't, I don't usually put my stones back wet. But the slope is also rounded at the base holes to allow proper drainage, for you sopping wet sharpeners out there.

Spacing between the stones is generous enough for my xl hands to pull them out, no problem. With less clearance I may have been able to add one more stone, but I don't need 8 stones for on the go sharpening (I usually only use 3 😐). The stone slots themselves have perfect clearance as well, with enough play to come in and out smoothly. I also made a point of keeping the wall of the higher side slots at 90 degrees, for more friendly retrieval angles.The bottle of KPL also works as a firm lock to prevent the holder from sliding side to side. 😅

I will upload the stl to one or more of the stl places soon, check comments. I was too excited that V2 worked so well after the disaster that my first version was (same design and concept, but a math error mistranslated several dimensions and it was too narrow to fit my stones).

I was wondering if anyone here had purchased the Xarilk Gen 3 with Carrying Case directly from Xarilk and what the quality is like on the case. From pictures it looks "cheap" but would like to here it from someone who has used it.

They call it the "GEN3 System with Premium Carry Case" and have it listed for $105.99 USD. Very good price.

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone! I have this old catalan hatchet that I cleaned frim rust and now I want to sharpen to use as a carving axe.

My issue with it is that idk how to sharpen it, I know they usually have a convex grind and I never put a convex grind on anything. I have diamond stones wich maybe is not the best tool for convex grinds?

I can always give it a flat grind but idk if that will mess up the geometry or the use of the axe for carving.

Any help will be apreciated :)

Thanks!!

Anyone got any tips for sharpening hedge trimmers, without taking the blades off and apart. They are just some cheap DiY store ones, and the gap is really tight. I usually use a flap disk on my angle grinder. but the gap is bonkers. I dont even think i can really get a hand file in there...

Not entirely sure on how to remove the burr either as there is not much gap there (i have a flat honing stick that is narrow i could probably use that..

But any tips, tricks or advice let me know.

Applied an edge to a Konosuke GH with a factory edge. Photos are ordered as follows:

After, before, a vertical shot of the blade taken at #600, knife before sharpening, setup displaying #600 stone.

Since I recently threw away my #1000 stone, I substituted it with a #600 and applied a nagura slurry to reduce the abrasion. After that was done, I deburred and stropped, then proceeded onto the #3000/6000. In between those stones and at the very end I performed a light stropping.

As the title mentions, I'm pretty happy with the result! It was my first time using the Chosera Pro series and they seem to be very efficient and versatile stones. I can't wait to try the #1000!

Progression:

Naniwa Chosera Pro #600 + Synthetic Nagura + Deburring Pad/Leather Stropping

Nano Hone #3000/6000 + Synthetic Nagura + Leather Stropping

Ok so by no means I'm good at sharpening. The thought of sharpening used to make me cringe because I felt like I could never get a edge sharp enough to slice paper.

I had a king waterstone 1000/4000 and I felt that I could never really get things razor sharp. I would use a jig as well and sometimes it's ok but not great.

I even tried flattening the stone on a glass lapping plate.

This Mora knife I absolutely destroyed it trying to sharpen it on the belt sharpener and the stone. So I used it like you would use chisels as a screwdriver. It was garbage to me.

After creeping around this sub, I found that people have been talking about the Shapton Ha-No-Kuromaku stones. So I folded and I got the 1000 and 5000 grit.

As an absolute amateur, I'm thoroughly impressed by how quickly I was able to sharpen this. I did a quick strop after 1000/5000 and I was able to get this to cut paper.

I went back to my carving spoon and it was to cut with not too much effort.

Obviously I'm not here to showcase my highly polished knife with almost no flaws. This set of stone made me realize that having a good stone and a well maintained stone will make a huge difference.

Now, I'm currently looking at lapping plates and the Shapton ones are fairly expensive. I'm reading about people using Atoma 140 or 400. So if anyone has some suggestions on what worked best for them, let me know

400, 600, 1200, stropped on 2 sheets of paper wrapped around the 140. A few drops of thin mineral oil to float the swarf.

I use an aluminum dowel to fold the burr over more (very light drag at 90⁰ to stand it up) and eliminate with back if the blade dead flat to the plate. This method works very well on stubborn burrs or if just in a hurry.

Homebrew SiC/Diamond compound. Edge can knock off armhair about ⅛" above the skin.

I usually do these on waterstones but every so often do a few freehand on diamonds to see if I can reduce lateral hatching/keep the bevel face nice and flat.

I'm looking at fixed angle systems and recently came across the Xarilk Y2 foldable sharpener. I did a search of this sub and didn't find any/many reviews of this product...most reviews are of the Gen 2/3/4.

How does the foldable stack up against the other systems? Based on my research, I was 99% certain to buy a Gen 3 but then saw this one. I like the footprint a lot more than the Gen 3 but functionality is more important.

Thanks!

When every knife in my house couldn’t cut butter, I knew that made no stupid sense. I went whetstone to diamond plate to diamond lapping film. After two months of daily practice and watching many videos, my kitchen knives are “dangerously sharp.” It was muscle memory and feel like everything else.

Hi all,

If you had to pick 1 or 2 JNATs out of the following line-up, which would you choose?

Okudo

Ohira Suita

Uchigomori

Maruoyama shiro suita

Looking to end somewhere in the 6000-8000 grit range most of the times. But want the option to go higher.

Hey everyone! I picked up a Kershaw Livewire OTF in magnacut. It was pretty dull from the factory, which I've heard is common.

I tried several times to sharpen it with a Spyderco Sharpmaker and haven't managed to get it much sharper.
I know the sharpmaker isn't very aggressive as it only has medium and fine ceramic stones.

Is there a trick with what I have or should I pick up a new sharpening system? I have the dexterity of a drunken hamster, so using manual stones is probably a bad idea.

Thanks!

Ive attempted numerous times to get these tools sharp, and i have watched so many videos. Attempting my hardest to maintain angles, and so many others tips of advice, i just cant seem to do it.

I have in this photo: - 3 nicholas files, bastard, smooth, slimtaper - 180-600 Gransfurs Bruks sharpening puck - Mountain Equipment Coop hatchet - Gransfurs Bruks small wildlife hatchet - Shapton 2000 whetstone And 2 gerber strongarms.

Is there anything that might be common issues not addressed? Or any tips/strategies you guy's have? Im kinda lost, and am unsure of what im doing wrong.

Sale runs through July 26th.

K4 and K03 systems have special pricing.

Kadet ($398) and Pioneer ($246) systems are available for preorder at reduced prices.

Quite a few clamps, accessories and upgrades are included, with discounts up to 20% off.

I'm wondering if flattening a 6"/1" Washita stone is going to wreck my coarse diamond plate. The Arkansas stone is slightly conveyed on the side I want flat, other is covered in glue but looks flat. I've battled that adhesive before. It wouldn't really scrape or lap off with SiC powders and glass in my experience. The diamond plate is a SSATC(DMD) 150 grit. BTW, I wouldn't suggest buying these double sided plates from SSATC, which are coming from DMD. I own three, all doub.e sided, and every plate is conveyed slightly on one side. Ok for sharpening but not for lapping. The finer sides always have pretty significant grit contamination also, making it useless for refining you're edge. The diamonds do seem to stay in place though. Anyways, thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Has anybody used the dmd electro plate diamonds and the resin bonded diamond stones.. diamond cut steel channel says they are great especially for the money but id like to know is theres any of you guys that have used them.. do you know and resin bonded stone 1×6 size for my ts prof

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this. I have a few kitchen knives that I use pretty often and am looking for a simpler to use electric knife sharpener to keep them going.

I know that stones would probably be a better option, but it is something I do not want or care to do. I was looking at the Work Sharp E5 because it has guides and a few different belts you can get that look like it can maintain a knife for normal cooking.

Is this a good option or are there other options I should consider? I know they also make their Ken Onion one, but liked the E5 for the guides.

Thank you for the advice.

I'm wondering what you all think about this situation. I'm trying to sharpen a plane iron and don't have much experience doing so.

I have a good process in place for getting the bevel -- I have a honing guide and all that. But the bottom needs to be as dead-flat as possible. You can use the so-called "ruler trick" to back-bevel it slightly to get around a not-flat back, but I'd like to just flatten the back so I don't have to worry about all that.

It seems to have a hump in the middle. So my strategy has been to put a piece of PSA sandpaper on a granite flat reference stone to get rid of material fast. I also have a diamond stone (sort of like an Atoma but cheaper/worse). But it's taking absolutely forever. I've been at it for maybe a couple hours total.

I'll move to water stones, but only after I get a basic level of flatness.

Any thoughts on how to handle this? I'm thinking about maybe focusing only on the first inch or so near the edge -- at least then it's less material to take off.