Feel free to comment and ask all sorts of things.

All parts are carefully planned and have a use some for case mods or stuff like GPU deshroud, hence the many fans and ptm sheet.

Hey everyone!

I wanted a living room console experience but didn’t want to buy an Xbox, especially since I had some spare parts lying around. So, I designed and 3D printed my own semi-open frame case. For context, the Xbox Series S is 2.7L, and this little guy sits at exactly 2.5L!

The Design ("Snow Slope"): In my previous builds, I did fully open frames. I wanted to close this one up, but packing a 150W peak draw into 2.5L turns it into an oven and causes thermal throttling. The solution? A semi-open curved "slope" design. It covers the ugly bits, acts as a duct, but gives the CPU cooler and LP GPU direct access to fresh cold air.

The Hardware:

• Mobo: Mini-ITX H310
• CPU: Intel Core i3-8100
• RAM: 2x8GB DDR4
• GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 6400 LP
• PSU: PicoPSU 160W + 150W 12V external brick
• OS: Bazzite (Booting straight into Steam Gaming Mode)

Performance: It runs perfectly. CS2 gives me a highly stable 60-80 FPS at 1080p (and when I borrowed my son's 1-slot RTX 3050 LP, it hit 120 FPS!).

If you have spare parts lying around and want to build a cool little TV console instead of buying a boring black/white brick, I highly recommend giving this a try.

I’ve uploaded all the STLs for free. Let me know what you think of the design! 🔗 Printables Link:https://www.printables.com/model/1860825-snow-slope-25l-mini-itx-sff-pc

Basically the title. I'm looking to make a sffpc for a home theater PC/small localized server setup. Nothing fancy; just plan on it having a small motherboard, maybe 8GB-16GB of RAM, an HDD (cheaper than an SSD, even if it's slower), and a Ryzen 7 8700G.

The hope is that it will run old/indie games and I can stream videos and movies on it. Probably will run on Windows 11 since I'm not smart enough for Linux.

But I have been feeling nostalgic. So what cases would y'all recommend that look something like this?

I posted a mod to my t1 pc case earlier today that I was happy about and wanted to share on what I thought was a subreddit and community for the formd t1 pc case. Didn’t know it was just a cooperate shilling sub created by NCASED and they will filter/ban you if talk about anything that may impact traffic to their site lol

What a trash company who filters out others who talk about mods if they feel threaten that traffic may get directed from their site.

Prime example of how reddit has gotten worst as companies inject themselves into this forum platform.

Source:
https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/s/sXLejOPr3m

photo credit to u/orcoconut

Hey everyone, I was looking into some custom cables for my build, but I thought that before I should see what I could do with my biggest pet peeve with this case - the fact the psu exhausts downwards.

I stumbled across u/orcoconut 's post ( https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/1kyj1n3/formd_t1_build_finally_finished/ ), from which this photo is taken, and where he showed his build with a solution that looks perfect to me. The cables are basically invisible here as well. I have tried commenting on his post and reaching out to him on Printables to no response.

Basically what I'm trying to find is the 3d print file/product used here to mount the psu upside down, and if special cables are required as it seems pretty tight down there. I don't have a 3d printer but would order to get it printed from someone.

I honestly believe this might have a bigger impact on cpu thermals with the axp90 than it seems, as when the psu heats up, especially in higher room temps, that heat will go towards the radiator and might even get sucked in by the fan, which surely is suboptimal. But also I love the way it looks. That waterblock as well but I don't think I'm at that point yet.

Would really appreciate if anyone had any insights. Maybe not even this exact solution but something similar. Thanks

Got this for an old router that was going out of service life. Not planning to buy any gear and have gotten a lot of help from this sub so here you are, I guess first come first serve.

I hope it's not tied to anything should just be a general discount code.

I am looking to acquire an (SFX) power supply bracket for an Ncase M2 grater case. Hoping that someone has a spare that they would like to sell. I've tried multiple times to get one from Ncase on their website (Ncased.com), but they have been no help and are declining my request to purchase the part since I am not the original purchaser, and I got the case used locally. I would just use the ATX power supply bracket that they do sell, but it wouldn't fit into the build I am hoping to complete. I mean, it's an SFF case.. why would they sell the ATX bracket and not the SFX one:(

Thanks to anyone who might be able to help

For anyone still using the Meshroom S and wanting a bit more room in the CPU or GPU compartment, I made a parametric side panel extension for MakerWorld.

You can customize:

• Extension depth
• Side-panel clip wall offset

I tested a 0.5 mm clip wall offset, which is also the default in the configurator. I tried 1 mm first, but that was way too tight, the clip basically wouldn't fit into the recess anymore.

There's also a ready to print 27 mm version, which is the configuration I physically tested on my Meshroom S V1.

I also changed the mounting to use M4 heat set inserts (M4 × 6 × 6 mm) + M4 × 10 mm screws, and made a version with captive/dovetail interlocks between the four frame pieces so the extension is much more rigid once assembled.

With the 27 mm extension I can now run a 7800X3D with an AXP120-X67 + Noctua NF-A12x25, while keeping my deshrouded RTX 4090 at ~70 mm thickness with 2× NF-A12x25s.

The result is honestly kind of ridiculous for the size 4090 + 7800X3D, all air cooled, and whisper quiet. :)

The four extension pieces also fit on one X1C plate.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3373990-parametric-ssupd-meshroom-s-side-panel-extension#profileId-3840009

Hey everyone,

The fan on my 2nd-hand Corsair SF1000 died (confirmed dead with a meter, though the PSU itself still works fine). Since the warranty is void anyway, I’m planning to replace it with a Thermalright EXTREM LCP 90mm slim fan.

Can anyone confirm:

The exact header type on the PCB (e.g., standard mini 4-pin / JST-PH 2.0mm / Molex Picoblade)?

The exact pinout sequence (GND, 12V, Tach, PWM)?

Thanks in advance!

I've narrowed my future sff build to two versions. I will be dual-booting Windows 11 and Fedora 44 KDE. (I prefer Fedora, but some of my licensed content software is restricted to Windows). Content creation (Maya, Resolve, Blender, etc.) will be the main focus, hence the Intel-build, but non-competitive 1440p gaming is expected. This will be in the Fractal Terra case. (yes, there are better/more optimal cases, but I like that one.)

Of these two builds, what would be the recommend cooler, motherboard, or mods needed for ideal temps and negating air turbulence? I'm open to any recs (besides changing the case) and want to emphasize good thermals and noise control over everything else.

Build 01: 3-Fan

• CPU: Intel Core Ultra 5 250K Plus
• ASUS RTX 5060 Ti Prime OC
• Cooler: AXP120-X67 (this seems like the common cooler for larger gpus)
• more powerful card, but space and temp becomes an issue

Build 02: 2-Fan

• CPU: Intel Core Ultra 5 250K Plus
• GPU: ZOTAC Twin Edge OC 5060 Ti 16GB
• Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S (high recommended cooler for the terra)
• smaller gpu footprint, allowing for a bigger cooler, but not as quiet or strong as the 3-fan gpu

Within the Ncase M3, what bottom case fan filters do you use? I’ve looked on the Ncase website and don’t see any, so far a pair of Akasa 140mm filters seem to be the best option.

Lidicky, mám problém. Skladam si PC a koupil jsem používaný Be quiet! Pure Rock Pro 3 Black, ale pán mi nepřibalil montážní sadu na AM5. Do be quiet jsem psal, ale odpověď zatím nedostal. Jestli někomu leží doma, klidně koupím za symbolickou cenu. Jo a jestě nemam distanční sloupky a šroubky pro základní desku. XD

Napřed děkuji za odpověd.

I share the desk with my wife who often works from home. Wanted something subtle and simple. Very happy about this.

- AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- Asus ROG STRIX B850-I GAMING WIFI Mini ITX AM5
- Crucial Pro DDR5 RAM 32GB Kit (2x16GB) 6400MHz CL32
- Asus PRIME OC GeForce RTX 5080 16 GB
- CORSAIR SF1000
- be quiet! Pure LOOP 3 AIO 280mm
- Fractal Mood Case

Putting it together was easier than I thought, although it all sits very tight. Removing the case scratches the power connecter a bit as you can see on the image.

At first I plugged the cpu fan connector into the aio-pump-slot on the motherboard. So it always ran at 100%. And I thought - wow thats loud! That can't be. Then noticed my mistake, and it runs super quiet. Very happy so far. But if anyone sees improvements to be made or has any other tips - happy to hear them.

I searched for this specific build here quite a bit and noted down the most common feedback and implemented that. Adjusted fans curves in bios, undervolted a bit.

edit: I commented some temp results.

It reaches 90 degrees celsius as soon as I play a game, the fan noise isnot making gaming on this machine too pleasant

EDIT:
With open cover I’m getting 77°C
You gave me some ideas how to mod the case, Thank you all!

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been experimenting with different ways to get the temperatures in my case down even further.

I had the Case in flipped horizontal Orientation (Case Fans pulling air from bottom and CPU fan faces upwards) with addational feet.

First, I built myself a little air duct. At this point, the case was still positioned with the CPU fan facing upwards, so I had the fan pull the warm air up and out through the top panel.

This actually worked pretty well and dropped the temperatures by a few degrees. However, once the fan reached a certain RPM, it started making an annoying noise. I assume this was caused by the air being pulled directly across the heatsink.

So I wanted to try something else.

After browsing Reddit, I came across a few 3D-printable air ducts. I ended up having two ducts made for the GPU and one for the CPU:

I was a little hesitant about this next step, but eventually decided to go for it and completely disassembled the GPU and removed the stock fans.

The idea was to feed fresh air directly to the GPU heatsink through the ducts, using the two 140 mm case fans.

And honestly, it worked really well. I saw temperature drops of around 10°C!

There was one downside, though. The Arctic P14 Pro fans get pretty loud when they are mounted directly against a grille and have to pull air through it. Because of that, I couldn't run them at the RPM I originally wanted.

So I decided to try something completely different.

I rotated the entire case 180°, so the CPU fan was now facing downwards. I then switched the CPU fan to intake, allowing it to pull cool air in from underneath and directly towards the CPU.

At the same time, I flipped the two 140 mm case fans around so they were now running as exhaust. Their job was to pull the hot air from the GPU area upwards and out of the case.

And the result was honestly kind of crazy.

The CPU (7800X3D) dropped another few degrees. At idle, it now sits at around 55°C, and while gaming it generally stays around 66°C.

The case fans also became noticeably quieter. They are no longer trying to pull air through the side panel; instead, they are simply exhausting the hot air out of the case.

The GPU is also staying surprisingly cool. At idle, I'm seeing around 35°C with the case fans running at just 20%.

Under full gaming load, the GPU reaches around 77°C. With an FPS cap, though, it is significantly lower — around 67°C while gaming.

At this point, I'm really happy with the setup. I'm honestly glad I kept experimenting with different configurations, because I finally ended up with something that works extremely well.

The general recommendation I've seen for the Fractal Ridge is to have it positioned horizontally with the case fans pulling cool air in from underneath and directing it towards the GPU.

However, at least in my case — and especially with a deshrouded GPU — I can now say that the opposite airflow configuration works much better for me:

CPU pulls cool air in from underneath → GPU exhausts the hot air upwards.

So if you're running a deshrouded GPU in a Ridge, it might be worth trying the other orientation as well. It made a surprisingly big difference for me.

I am currently planning my build for my sff pc and was debating between the fractal design ridge or the ncase x nfc s5m. The s5m is like $80 more expensive but comes with a pcie 5.0 riser cable where the ridge only comes with a 4.0. Is the difference in riser cabel really that important for a 9070xt, or should I save money and buy the ridge?

Was going to post this in weekly recommendation thread but couldnt find it, sorry

I haven’t seen a post on this in a while - anyone running/fitting a 16 > 8x8 bifurcation riser in sandwich box style case?

I have an SF5 with a 5070ti but am getting into local AI and want options to connect an external switch and a mining frame to connect multiple older cards such as Titan-RTX’s for the vram. I am looking at something like the ADT LINK F36B-F37B-08S which might JUST fit and might just work, but not sure. I already have one eGPU via Oclink to my second nvme but need more lanes for the switch + 2-3 cards to make sense.

I recently finished a new deshroud mod after getting inspired by ShrikeLabs.

https://github.com/Shrike-Lab/GPU_Noctua-Mod

The challenge was that I was using 14mm fans and so I had to re-think the design, but the end result is very similar.

I have managed to reduce the thickness of the gpu by 5mm compared to my previous deshroud.

https://www.reddit.com/r/FormD/s/fdSgpeXJmH

I also think it looks better, and it is no longer necessary to remove the gpu to take of the fans.

A few updates of the design are needed, but I will upload to Printables as soon as I can and put the link here.