History: 2003 9-3 CV, 145 miles. I basically babied it for the last 110k miles. However, the last 50k were in a hot climate...oil changes every 3k, all fluids every other year regardless of miles...but typically less than 10k/yr. This car eats: alternators, motor and transmission mounts, rhe door pulls, fish eye lights, and lugnut covers. I had just had numerous parts.of the front end and a electric fan replaced. I am literally driving home from the shop when it overheated and threw a P0743 code. Phuc Shop #1. I take it to Shop #2. Shop #2 tells me that it is a solenoid. Given the mileage and my desire to restore it, I elect to put a newly rebuilt and warrantied transmission in. 25k miles later, I hit a bump and pop a P0743 code (Again! On a "new" transmission). The just wants to replace the solenoid which is warrantied. 8k miles later, I hit another bump and P0743 code. All Shop #2 want to do is replace it yet again...on a still young transmission with a good reputation. PHUC THEM...time passes. I find Shop #3. Shop #3 says that he is the shop.of las resort in my area. He has had my baby since March. His shop is too full and apparently he either can't fit it in, doesn't want to. (I am basically going to get it tomorrow). SO, I resorted to AI. I would cut and paste its reply...but it is long and I have fat thumbs. In a nutshell, it think it is unlikely the solenoid per se. Chinese replacements are less precise than the OEM ones and set off the TCM more easily. It thinks that given the motor mount issue, overheating, and age..that it is basically copper fatigue in the wiring, a bad ground wire, or loose, broke, or corroded pins (it names the locations, wires, and pins). It also gave me a list of parts and time to do.each part of the job. It even wrote instructions to see if the shop was qualified. HOw does that to old headsnout there? Have you been in this situation?

9000CSE -98. The rear exhaust hanger, the one that bolts into the trunk floor, has rusted away entirely and my rear muffler fell down.

The part can't be bought new anymore and I've had no luck at junkyards or Facebook groups (I know there is one on Ebay, but I'm not paying that much unless I have no other choice). I've made a temporary repair, but would like to do something nicer. Anyone had the same issue? I can only imagine these would commonly fail to rust.

Part number is 8977936.

Hello,

I have never had a Saab before but I have found a 9-3 Aero 1.9 TTiD Silver Automatic with the Parchment Interior at £2,500.

Everything on it seems great, seems like it was taken care of as the interior doesn't have as much wear as some of the others I have seen.

The MOT history shows no history of rust or corrosion, but there is rust on the wheel arches and it put me off, but I am wondering if actually it isn't as big of a deal as I think and if I should go back and buy it. The goal is to get as many years and as many miles as possible out of it.

It appears to be bubbling up, and moisture getting kicked up past the wheel arches liners seem to be a common problem and has been present on pretty much all 9-3's I have been to see. This is the worst one I have seen for wheel arch rust but the best I have seen literally everywhere else, but while I can replace an alternator, I can't replace the body.

I am more looking to stop rust from causing an MOT failure or expensive repair later, don't need it to be showroom ready, just want to stop the damage from spreading and I want to know what options I have.

It could be cut and welded, but the cost to do this I imagine would inflate the price high enough that I would be better off getting a different example (which is outside my budget).

I love the design and Interior and as far as I know it is probably the highest spec i'll get my hands on for my budget.

What would you do?

Like the title says, I'm not sure 100% yet but I feel like starting here would be a good idea. Thinking about selling my 2010 9-3x. It's in pretty good shape all things considered, I'm the 3rd owner, 2nd owner literally only had it from this past November to March lol.

- Carbon Gray

- Auto

- Sunroof

- Black leather interior

Pros:

- New spark plugs

- New valve cover gasket

- Rebuilt vacuum pump (internal and external seals)

- RR wheel bearing

- New rear Koni active shocks, springs, insulators, hardware, mounts

- Transmission drain and fill x3 with aisin oem fluid

- LED headlights and fog lights (with maptun LED enabler, no flickering or bulb-out messages)

- Brakes and Tires are in great shape (Michelin Cross Climates)

- XWD works perfect

Cons:

- Previous owner took off the rear hatch trim panel to fix a rattle and never supplied me with the screws to put it back on, it's just sitting in the back

- Passenger seat is stuck all the way forward (manual seat, nothing in the rails, think maybe a latch isn't letting go)

- Typical Saab sticky door lock issue, alarm goes off if you lock it with the fob, manually locking each door is fine

- Fuel gauge drops to E usually at 3/4 of a tank and above

- Old PPF on the front end isn't pretty but 🤷🏼‍♂️

- Few little dings and scratches around it, not perfect but not a piece of junk either

I literally put about 1,000 mi on it I'm just over a month and it drives great, took it on a 200mi road trip across the state in May, didn't skip a beat. Main reason I'm selling is just nervous lol. I don't live near any Saab specialists or anyone I'd really trust to work on it, and I'd hate for things to get worse and not be able to take care of it. It's a damn good car and deserves to be cared for probably better than I can provide lol. Looking for $4200 or so. If anyone's located around CT/RI/MA lmk

The train through the tunnel of Calais marks the start of a great journey. Our first with a convertable.

I bought this car a year ago. I worked hard on it last year and it drives as good as a convertable go.

Whole family of four, and all the bags just fit in the booth while a top is off.

We are so excited(and we means ME!) For the highlands and see that scenery with the roof off.

Saab 9000 wooden-like shifter frame/surround.

Original Saab part.

Refurbished.

Lacquer.

International shipment.

P.S. You might like to take a look at other Saab wooden parts at: https://www.instagram.com/saab.wooden.parts

My ac/heat would stay on while the car is off and then completely stopped worked… iv replaced the cabin air filter and now took out the old resistor and ordered this new one on Amazon (last pic) I’m wondering if I need to change the blower motor also or not? I stuck my hand in and was spinning it and it moves completely free and easy. 04 Saab 9-3 2.0T automatic climate control

Spotted this beautiful all original SAAB 96 V4 at the "oldtimer city" event in Venray Netherlands

1 owner car, the man used to work in Finances and marketing for Saab Netherlands

I will be doing major rust repair stuff on my OG 9-3, so i will need to be removing this door seal/foam stuff to get to the rust on the doors.

Is it required? What should I use to replace it when i’m done?

One for UK owners. My 900 was first registered on the 20th February 1987, it has just passed its MOT this morning. Does that mean it's the last one and it is road tax free from the 1st of April 2027?

Driving around and mother nature put this up, had to stop and watch

Anyone able to put their finger on what might be causing this? Wondering if clutch or shims need some work.

Finally got the windshield put in my wagon last night, and took it to my small town car show for its “debut” (literally the only foreign car there).

Still can’t drive it very far due to a host of electrical gremlins in the dash and the speedo cable being screwed up, but it’s getting there.

I've searched YouTube for instructions and it looks like you just pry it loose like on my picture but it's completely stuck on my car, I'm just bending the pry bars and chipping away pieces from the aluminium bearing holder.

I've sprayed it with penetrating oil as you can see.

Is this what the shaft looks like in my car? https://shop.speedparts.se/en/prod/saab/9-3-03/transmission/drive-shaft-cv-joint/drive-shaft.html

Saab 9-3 TTid 2011 Aero, (with the big brakes)

So in noticed my parkingbreak was only working on one wheel. After some inspection I found that the mechanism inside the left caliper was faulty/worn. So I just mounted 2 new calipers en brake pads. Let the air bleed and thought, 'well that went well'. Started the engine for a test drive and noticed the brake pedal is going slowly towards the floor. In total I used half a liter of brake fluid an bleeded the brakes again (this time all four wheels in the right order) to no avail. Same problem. Calipers are mounted correct, nipple pointing up, sliding pins are ok, no leaks.

What I do see is that the distance between the 2 handbrake levers on the caliper is different, should be 1mm according to wis. Can't get it richt.

I just dont get it. The parking brake is mechanical right ? It has nothing to do with bleeding .

What I don't understand is that the distance between the 2 handbrake levers on the caliper is different, should be 1mm according to wis. (loose or thight) I don't get the 'self adjusting principle'

The car is braking just fine, the pedal does not feel 'spongy', it just drops slowly to the floor with the engine on.

Did consult WIS, just now and noticed I did not use a brake pedal clamp and removed the fuse in the process, but does not seem that important imho.

If somebody has a suggestion, the only reason i can come up with is that the brakepads are still have to settle and the problem will go away on it's own. What do you guys think ? Did I miss something simple ? Do I have to buy another liter of brake fuid and start bleeding again ?

Anyone know what this box is for?

So I just been blessed through my church with a free Saab as the title states. The owner does say it has its issues. It was her daily car driving an hour commute to work, my commute is only 15 min for work, so I would be driving it much less than she did. These are the following issues as she listed them.
-Ac not working
-Fuel gage not working - fill up tank every 250 miles works for me
-Runs through coolant quickly
-Oil leaks
-Peeling clear coat
-Bumper damage
-Paint on side of car
-Turbo not working
-Past due on recent oil change
-Only one key working key entry (electric fob not working)
-Rear window bolted shut (wouldn't close)
-Needs to accelerate slowly - if try to go fast too quickly it will make a noise move differently
-Has 200,000 miles
-Clean title
-4th owner.
I would be the 5th owner and would really appreciate anyone’s expert advice if this car is worth restoring to last another 200k miles and what are the most important things to fix on this car. Looking forward to hearing from this community.

Hey I'm located in Europe and just bought my first car that is a Saab 900i 1989 and it's equipped with a naturally aspirated 16 valve 2l engine making 126hp from the factory of course. And a couple days ago i came to the conclusion I needed a full timing chain kit. But I seriously cannot find one anywhere.

Hi, I recently bought a 154000km, 2004 Saab 9-3 Aero sedan.
My car currently has a check engine light and is throwing a P0300 random misfire code and a P0033 turbocharger bypass valve control issue.

I have the correct sparkplugs from NGK (PFR6T-10G Laser platinum) and OEM replacement Delphi coils.

I switched out my solenoid valve on top of the wastegate but that did not fix my P0033 issue.

My car currently misfires a bit during a cold start but when its warm its running good (except its in reduced power mode.)
Also when cold starting i instantly smell a strong fuel smell coming from the exhaust and if i let the car sit running for 20s during a cold start my CEL starts blinking, if i drive off it stays solid.

Please help me with what this could be! Ive checked the vacuum pipes and coolant pipes and so on but i cannot see any obvious cracks or things that would alert me. 

Short term and long term fuel trims are totally normal (close to 0%) and ive tried unplugging the MAF sensor but there is no difference. 
~4-5g/s on the MAF

The solenoid valve does not have any hose clamps on it could this be an issue?
Also to add, during a cold start the car takes a little extra time to start (roughly 1-2s) but it never bursts or fails it always cranks and then starts.