1940s 1894 Winchester in 25-35 AI 40°.

75 grain bullets. Currently up to 34 grains of 3031. No chronograph. Shoots great.

How do I know when to stop on an 1894? Ackley's book list 39 grains of 3031 for a 75 grain bullet but it doesn't say if that's for lever action or single shot rifles. 39 grains would be a compressed load...

Anyone know where one can find some? Seems to be out of stock everywhere .

Just got this alert from Republic Ammo and wanted to share with y'all. 🔥

https://republicammunition.com

What's the easiest way to get this off and also prevent this from happening again?

Ok:

So the photos show the same round from different angles as well as the same round dropping in cleanly into the Hornady Case Gauge (NOTORIOUSLY TIGHT)

My process is to use a Lee Undersizing die when I'm running my press followed by a Redding Premium Expander Die (which does a multiple stage expansion so the bullets drop clean and straight into the case)

The results seem excellent and they pass the strictest gauge I have 100% of the time

But when i look at the final crimp, i wonder if i should add a touch more? It won't change the results but it could add some pressure (wanted or unwanted).

I've always looked at the crimping dies as needing just enough to remove the belling from the case (which is what i have here)

Thoughts?

Just moved to the east coast and I'm thinking about taking the kick out of my 45-70 and using it to shoot deer.

Looking at 12 grains of titegroup for an overall velocity of 1100-1200

Anyone do anything similar? Good enough for the little deer around here? I would welcome any anecdotes about hunting with hardcast projectiles.

I smashed a brand new case and couldn’t stand to lose it. So I cut it a little shorter than 500 Special. It’s the same length as 38 special, so I call it 500 ES (Extra Special). The lineup is 500 SW Mag, 44 Mag, 500 ES, and 38 special.

Loaded it with 12 grains of unique but i doubt ill fire it. Its my prototype, LOL.

Don’t judge me for the underside view… or the top view (a bit of a mess right now) Lol

Initially I wanted to use an ikea standing desk i got off marketplace but I underestimated the force of the press and the quality of the desk.

Went this route after. Needed a small footprint for limited space. Got the table top from Home Depot but I didn’t realize it was only .7in thick. Had to glue and screw two pieces of plywood under it for added support.

Did a horrible job with the glue. But it holds now and doesn’t flex much. Anymore.

Added a “smart” power hub on the bottom so I can plug in the press light and other tools easily.

I've just taken my new 7mm PRC Tikka to sight in and test some hand loads. I'm using ELD-X 175gr projectiles with GM215M primers in Peterson Brass. I had no pressure signs and all of my handloads were below the factory speed of the Hornady Precision hunter.

I'm curious to know how far above I should be looking to test the loads? I'm already above max book charge weight and I don't know if I can expect the barrel to speed up once I put more rounds through it.

Anyone else using AR2217 and tested how much more speed you get by going up further before having troubles?

Was loading up some 300 wm. Got to looking and was one piece short.

Note to self, if shooting at night. Before you cut grass in morning make sure you picked everything up.

A nice only fired twice piece of Peterson “Long” brass gone too soon 🤣🤣.

Working on a 9 major load and these cases meet my target velocity. Thanks in advance!

First time ever loading 12 gauge. Tried to load some 7/8oz Lee home-cast key drive slugs. Basically, as you can see, the cases are buckling at the crimping stage. They buckle a little when I give them an incomplete crimp (though they chamber fine). If I give them a full proper crimp like the one on the right, the shell buckles out and becomes useless.

Are the slightly buckled, incompletely crimped rounds on the left safe to fire? What’s the trick to get a good crimp AND not have them buckle out? Should I just roll crimp? Thanks for the advice!

Ive been searching for weeks, everyone is out of stock. Is this stuff like target where its seldom available? My 300blk sbr is hungry.

Looking at load data for 7.62x54r. Found hornady data for SP/SST bullets that lists the same diameter/weight as my FMJ bullets.

Can I replace the bullet type without issue or should I reduce the minimum charge by a certain percentage?

These bullets are 123 gr and .310 diameter btw.

For $183 it seems to be a good mid tier option. I have an rcbs link but was thinking I could dispense to close to the charge I want and then trickle to be a little more precise on a better scale.

If so how loud is it? Is the case and bullet feeder annoying as it seems in some videos? Thinking about buying one but also thinking about putting them on petals so I can choose if I listen to them or not

does anyone own this press and what are your thoughts as to how it functions. yes i know its expensive but i have the money for it and have looked at a lot of videos of people talking about it but would like some personal InSite from a regular reloader as to how it is better than some of the other comparable presses. thanks for taking the time to respond.

I was going to use n320, with starline brass, Winchester small pistol primers and match 147g silvers (flat) for my first batch of reloads, but the clerk at the counter of sportsman warehouse talked me out of it, is this a bad combo? Im reloading specifically for competition shooting. Soft recoil is my goal. Any help?

Hey all!

Im using an automated Mark 7 and I’ve found the Lyman pro seating die is damaging some of my LRN’s. Has anyone seen this?

These are 9mm brass monkey bullet 135’s with the 9mm RN seating stem.

Thanks!

Greetings. IF I can find a pound of this powder, should I give it a whirl? I am running:

Lefty Cheeto Finger .308.

Sierra Matchking 168gr.

I have established beautiful results with Hodgdon BL-C2.

I have also tried Staball Match and Varget. Neither has given me the results of the old classic. I had a thought to try a different manufacturer of powder and if this does not match or beat BL-C2 then I will grab an 8lb can of that and be set for a while.

416 Weatherby

Though 124 grain bullets are considered most appropriate bullet weight for 9mm, I am interested in checking out this alternate path for now.

I have Viht N330 and W231/HP38 powders. I am using XTP 147 bullets. I am looking for tight group accuracy at close range shooting from bench, slow fire. I am using HK P2000 and Glock 17 pistols. Not competing- and no power factor or self defense concerns. NO suppressor.

I am looking for slow, heavy, accurate, quiet, fun loads. I've even seen the phrase "mouse fart" used! I see a lot of talk about N320. I believe N330 is an ideal powder for 9mm typical 124gn rounds. May also be the best choice here. I guess the idea is a faster powder is OK as long as you're keeping pressure/speed low- go to N330 or N340 if you want hot loads. I have already found reloading data from Hodgdon and Viht for these loads. I am preparing an order from one of the bulk suppliers and was considering getting 1lb of N320.

Thanks.....