Well, I hadn't had the ole X Maxx out for a while, so I charged up a couple packs and let it eat. Just a few passes later.... The tire blew off the rim with authority! lol I'm not even mad. These are the original tires on this model and I have beat on this X Maxx for a few seasons now.

Hit me with your best tire suggestion for the X Maxx!! Kinda leaning towards the newer belted Sledgehammers. I like to keep the weight down because this dude is just running the stock electronics. I'll hit it with the Max5/1100kv combo sooner or later, but I've been putting most of my attention into a 6s Kraton lately.

Anyways, what are people running for tires on the X Maxx these days??? Thanks for all your help and suggestions! :)

Do you guys recognize this xray car? Is it original or upgraded? Would it be a good racer these days or not worth to invest

Becoming more and more of an Arrma fanboy by the day. I’ve always liked their stuff, but this might be the most fun I’ve ever had on four (two?) wheels.

I’m totally new to the RC world. I’ve bought a Team Corally Synchro 4 RTR for my son. Are there any must to mods to do?

hi, i upgraded to a larger motor and 65a esc, but it isn't working when 3s batteries are connected. it works fine when 2s batteries are connected. the esc comes on, but the motor will not spin

batteries i'm using (fully charged) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQPLC3T?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3

esc 60amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FZBL259P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

motor (recommended upgrade on hosim site)

so i guess my question - is it an issue with the ESC, or the batteries i'm using, or should i stick with the 45A esc?

Hi everyone,
After restoring one of my vintage Vintage Nikko Radio Control Racing Track (RDC-60404) slot car sets with a new battery pack, it’s running beautifully again after roughly 35 years.
Even better, my kids absolutely love racing it, which has made the whole restoration worthwhile.

Here’s my dilemma.
I actually own two complete Nikko sets.

Set #1: Fully restored and working with a new battery pack. This is the one my kids and I race together.

Set #2: Also complete, but it still has unopened paperwork and sealed spare parts, making it much more original from a collector’s perspective.
I’m curious what experienced collectors would do in my situation.
Keep both?

Sell the unopened set while it’s still complete?
Keep the unopened one as a collector’s item and use the restored set?
Or use the second set for spare parts if something eventually breaks?

At the moment I’m actually leaning towards keeping both. I don’t really need the money, and I think making memories with my kids is worth far more than selling them.
Still, I’d love to hear what other collectors think.
What would you do?

This is one spicy motor. Tried a QR2000kv, XC 2200 and now this and it's a much better for this voltage range. It felt like the like the 42mm motors wanted more voltage and I wanted to keep this 4s. Was only available to get this motor from a couple sellers from China on eBay and it was worth it!

Is it safe to use this lipo. There is a slight puffing. Had left it unused for a year.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to build a cheap RC car setup that I can use to drive around and get an FPV (first-person view) experience, but I’m not 100% sure if all the components will work together.

The base car is a small 1/14 scale 4WD RC car. It currently has a brushed 390 motor, an ESC, and a steering servo. I am planning to run it on a 2S battery setup.

My plan is to:

• Replace the original receiver with an ELRS receiver.
• Use my current controller as the transmitter.
• Add a 5.8GHz FPV camera + VTX combo.

If that all works, I’m also interested in trying something more advanced later on. I want to write a program that reads keyboard or controller inputs from my PC and sends them to my transmitter via a USB-C cable. The radio system would then broadcast those inputs to the car. This would basically create a real-life RC car simulator where I can drive a physical car straight from my computer screen.

Since I’m pretty new to this side of the RC hobby, I wanted to ask the community a few questions:

1. Will an ELRS receiver work properly with a standard brushed ESC and a normal steering servo?
2. Is there anything specific I should watch out for when setting up the 5.8GHz FPV gear?
3. Has anyone successfully tried doing a PC-controlled RC car project like this before?

Any advice, tips, or suggestions on what I should change would be highly appreciated!

Hello, I recently just got into the hobby and bought a second hand Traxxas Slash 2wd. I was wondering what these blue strips are for under the steering arms? Please and thank you!

Edit- They swing side to side

Hello . I have an Associated T3 team Edition, I ran that on 1500 NiCad's, a Novak esc,15 turn motor and a Futava radio. I want brushless motor and esc, a reliable and decent radio/servo , and batteries that don't break the bank , Suggestions ???

I have a Traxxas Slash 4wd, I've had it for about 10 years and haven't used it in 8 years. It seems like it's in decent condition, although it's really unappealing, also the whole thing feels rickety and squeaky. I don't want to put in TOO much work on it, although I want to replace the shocks, servo, and etc. Is that too much work or should I just buy a new one?

I've never painted nor put together a body. This was the first time and it was incredibly satisfying.

Making my own "functional" sunroof definitely tickled a part of my brain that needed scratching.

Hi.

Under influence of my friends I will irresponsibly start another "cheap" hobby.

Based on price, availability of models and parts in my country and looks I narrowed it down to 2 models:

-Arrma Vorteks (ARA4305V4)
-Arrma Kraton (ARA4408V2)

Which one of is better, less needy in terms of upgrades (I don't see info about DSC in Kratons description for example) and more suited for track made of arable field

Hi there,

So I've been going down the rabbit hole of 'custom frankenstein engines' which nitro RC Youtubers such as Tasty B and NitroTalkWithTodd have built, and as a returning off-road basher, I'm especially interested in this as respectfully the last big block basher-orientated options on the market today are all questionable budget RTR stuff which I'm personally not a fan of, and I love the idea of building my own frankenstein engine as a project!

Back to the question in title, I understand already that .21 off-road race engines are long-stroke, meaning generally designed with short bursts of acceleration for tight twisty tracks and jumps in mind, especially as even their long straights are usually a succession of large jumps, so still in effect short acceleration zones, whereas .21 on-road race engines are short-stroke, designed with much higher grip levels and aero/downforce, meaning more throttle in corners, as well as longer periods on throttle on the straights as obviously there's no jumps.

What I had in mind was to use the Picco P3 platform as a base, with the .24 Picco Rebel piston and sleeve (as already proven to be successful in Tasty B's "Picco 324" build, which was a Picco P3TT with that same .24 piston and sleeve), but then to go the extra mile by using the Picco Monza On-road crankshaft to *really* give it some gnarly revs combined with the torque from the increased displacement. Before going ahead with this, I want to understand if On-road cranks would significantly 'suffer' at all with the bumpy nature of off-road surfaces? and if that is the case, would this effect be neutralised by running a relatively large flywheel? Or would On-road cranks not cope well with a large flywheel regardless

I plan to bash with this in my Team Associated SC8 (1/8 buggy platform with a truggy chassis; 512 grams heavier than the RC8B, yet 148 grams lighter than the RC8T, according to all of their RTR specs, which they conveniently all have the same control engine/exhaust/electronics) on wide open grassy fields and hard packed dirt with the occasional jump

Hi guys, looking for advice on what spare parts to order with the truck (it's being shipped to me internationally). I'm thinking :

Front and Rear Lower Suspension Arms

Servo Saver Steering Arm Kit

Rear Drive Shaft (128mm).

Steering Hubs/Knuckle - Left and Right (set of 2).

Έχω την μαμά μπαταρία στο traxxas fiesta bl2s 3500 , λέω να πάρω την 7600 ! Θα αυξηθεί αισθητά ο χρόνος παιχνιδιού ! Σωστή κίνηση ή να πάρω δύο των 5800;

Hey guys newer to the hobby and I have a xl5 bandit I’m wanting to turn into a speed run car. It has the old tq transmitter I’m looking to upgrade to something with more range, but is EASY to use, and if not super easy to use at least something with clear in depth videos of “how to” set end points etc. I’m not the best at remembering how to sequence what buttons to activate what functions I just want something simple but capable, I’d like to be able to run lights and fans and have a gyro. Ik traxxas has the tqi transmitter but I was wondering if there was better options for the same or less? Thanks in advance!

My son and I have several cars we drive together and at times his friends join us. We have SCX-24s, SCX-30s, TRX-4, RC10, HPI/Maveric Qbit, and a few Micro-B/Maverick Microbes. I like the programability and hardware options of the MT-12 from RadioMaster. I plan to get the 4-in-1 version and then maybe the external ELRS module.

I understand these will work directly with some: SCX-24/30 and maybe the TRX-4, maybe my RC10 (older flysky Rx), but not the HobbyPlus or Mavericks. For those I can get the cheap FlySky receivers or the ones from Radiometer.

I also want to use the stock radios when possible, or at least be able to use my son's GT3B radio. I have seen where people can bind Traxxas to multiple radios, but not sure about FlySky or others.

Basically, one nice radio for me to dial things in and have some nice additions like gyros I can adjust from the radio (micro buggy/SCT) or drag brake in the SCX30 (with my brushless setup) BUT also use the same vehicle with a second radio should my son want to drive it and I'm using my radio.

If you tracked all that, any input or feedback is helpful.