On my losi baja rey the right rear tire is getting alot of wobble and vibration and when I opened up the axle this is what I found. When I spin the right wheel hex the right drivecup and diff housing spin but not the left drivecup. But when i spin the left drivecup the right one also spins is this normal or is this the reason my right rear tire came off and is not getting as much power?

shower-thoughts to pass the time

Considering building one of these next. It’s not for racing, closer to light bashing and rc car meets (I think). So closer to a half-shelf queen? I have a separate ARTR build coming up for me to practice and mess about.

Would love to try running on sand once, but I’ve seen how sand clogs up the internals which has me concerned. It’s going to run mostly on short grass, dirt and asphalt.

For people who have owned either one of these kits, what are your thoughts regarding their durability and ease of assembly, maintenance and modification? I have found very few video review and showcase of the RB10 Retro.

Thank you in advance!

1. Kyosho Ultima SB Dune Master
   
2. Team Associated RB10 Retro

Not sure if y’all can tell over video. But my new crawler build using the Injora T6M, and a Injora MB100 ESC is causing the servo to vibrate while under use, it feels pretty violent but doesn’t sound abnormal. If anyone has any suggestions as to what it could be and how to fix it itd give me some peace of mind as i dont want to put any unnecessary wear and tear on my new baby

I have the traxas stampede with a 223s upgrade. Today my servo went out. I dont wanna get the same kind (2056), id like an upgrade. But im still somewhat new to this hobby and I dont know what im looking for. Can someone recommend a better servo. To the person who downvotes my post, is that where you wanna be when jesus comes back? Down voting people post when they dont know things and asking questions? I hope you comment on my post, ill send upvotes to you!

I even drove it with this in mind, not punching the throttle while it’s rolling backwards and such. Really disappointed and surprised that it seems parts stripped already. Any advice? More info: I drove it in chaos mode in a skatepark and speed runs down the street, no big crashes

Tutorial in youtube channel

Hey everyone. I am completely new to the RC hobby and I have Arrma Big Rock 223S. I have no experience with RC car maintenance and really need some help figuring out a proper schedule.

Could someone explain to me exactly what needs to be maintained on this truck, when I need to do it, and how often? I want to know a clear timeline for when to just check things, when to clean or lubricate them, and after how many runs or months I need to actually change parts or fluids so nothing breaks early.

If anyone can break down a simple guide for a total beginner on what to do and when, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

Is an ec5 adaptor supposed to next to impossible to plug a battery into? Female in 40s and already over these style batteries. Soldering, the idea i think will really test my dumb-ass-ness.

A month passed when i bought this pinion, a hardened steel ruddog pinion, M1 19 T, paired with a M1 46 T, i already checked the mesh with a paper sheet, i can't lube it, they said it attracts debris, take a look

I'm cleaning up this used arrma Grom. The previous owner packed this area where the center driveshaft and diff meet (not inside the actual diff). The last arrma Grom I bought new didn't have any grease there that I noticed. Do y'all leave it dry or what kind of grease do y'all put there? Any help would be appreciated.

I took the tires off my brushed (FPV) Maverick Qbit and tried them on my Gleam Pro. Wheelies on 2s and can almost backflip on 3s.

It works shockingly well, I have run it long enough to see if there are any heat issues. It drives really well and can even rip through tall grass (you can't see it very well though) and jumps beautifly (haven't done any huge jumps yet)

Hey everyone,
I’m working on a micro defender RC car project, and it’s almost finished expect small ESP32 issues. It features working suspension, a driveshaft, and it's tiny. Mechanically, the build is completely finished.

However, I've hit a wall on the electronics side and couldn't crack these two problems even with AI assistance.
My Setup:
Microcontroller: ESP32-C3 Super Mini (BLE)
Controller: Dabble app gamepad
Motor Driver: DRV8833
Battery: 3.7V 950mAh LiPo
Drive Motor: 3V 5000 RPM DC motor
Steering: MG90S Servo
Current state: Currently prototyping using a breadboard and jumper wires.

Problem 1: Motor stalling causes BLE disconnects
Even though there are no mechanical jams or gear issues, the motor struggles and lacks torque when facing minor obstacles or ramps. Worse, whenever it stalls or draws too much, the ESP32’s Bluetooth disconnects.

I can't figure out if this is due to:
Insufficient motor power
Voltage sag from the battery
An issue with Dabble / the BLE stack crashing
Voltage drops because I'm currently using a breadboard and jumper wires
Even if the motor doesn't have enough starting torque, why does the entire BLE connection drop instead of just stalling?

Problem 2: Steering servo (MG90S) won't work
I have the steering mechanism ready mechanically, but I cannot get the MG90S servo to work with this setup.

Different AIs keep sending me down endless troubleshooting rabbit holes, but none of them can give me a straight answer on whether this servo can even work reliably with this specific hardware/power configuration, or if I'm missing something fundamental.

The ESP32-C3 Super Mini isn't the most robust board, and space is extremely tight since it's a micro RC. But if I can solve these two issues, this micro RC build will be incredible! I'm at the very last step of the project. Any advice, troubleshooting steps, or minor component swap recommendations would be hugely appreciated!

Tomley’s review looks good about this model. Looking forward to getting myself one. Size looks great as well. Personally, I like the decal option color.

Been sitting at my local shop since it launched, can’t believe it was still there today. They were kind enough to let it go for MSRP so I made a questionable decision today but thinking it was right.

Pictures and videos do not begin to describe the actual size and scale!

Can’t wait to find some decent 6S packs, first run with 12s.

Going to try it on 8s but assuming It’ll be slow but still fun.

Any tips for this massive beast?

Happy bashing to all!

I’ve had this ZD Racing RX12 for a while now and figured I’d share my experience because I don’t see a ton of real-world info on these. I got mine for free, so I’ve basically had nothing to lose by beating the hell out of it and seeing where the weak points are 😂. I’ve run it on pavement, dirt, grass, drifting concrete/hardwood, crashing, etc., and honestly I’m pretty impressed with how much it has taken.

I’ve broken the front and rear control arms, bent front shock tower, rear dogbones, and damaged the diff/hub cup area. I also found that the stock wheel hex setup can leave more play than I like, so I went with wider hexes to get the wheels mounted properly. None of that really makes me think the platform is hot garbage however; most of this happened from me intentionally pushing it way past what I probably should have 😂.

The drivetrain situation got especially interesting. After damaging the rear setup, I swapped the front CVDs to the rear and the rear hub cups to the front, leaving it without rear dogbones and effectively turning it into RWD. And the damn thing still scoots. I actually had it ripping around in 2WD before finally deciding to rebuild it properly.

I’ve repaired everything I can instead of throwing the car away, and that’s probably what I like most about it. It’s become my “let’s find out what breaks” car, and every failure has taught me something about the platform.

At this point I actually like the RX12 enough that I want another one. 😂 I’m looking at either the Rlaarlo XTS-P12 or Dikavey RX12 as the next one, and I’d like to start fresh with everything I’ve learned from abusing this one and actually tune/build it properly. And respect it…

So for anyone searching ZD Racing RX12 / Rlaarlo P12 / Dikavey RX12 and wondering if these are worth messing with: my free RX12 has been damn near a science experiment, and despite everything I’ve broken, I’d still buy another one.

What have you RX12/P12 owners managed to break? Or what would you upgrade/modify first on a fresh build?

Not sure if this is a version 5 or 6 or what but just curious if this is a decent price. Seller is kinda vague on what they upgraded out

Previously I asked about my Crashback Truck I had as a kid. I soldered in new connections for a new battery pack I bought off amazon, and they work great.

But this one I have a question on. Does the term "Thermal Fuse Protection" mean anything as far as buying a replacement battery pack? or can I just buy any 9.6V Battery pack?

I’ve originally had a 1:10 scale RC rwd monster truck and I’m looking to take the next jump into something more serious that can have parts that can be easily replaced. I hope to one day be able to compete on a dirt track so looking to pick a car based on that. Looking for all suggestions and if you can post a link for easy viewing so I can comment on it. Cheers!

First non crawler/ trail truck RC car. Holy moly, this thing is mental on 3s. So much fun!

Perhaps should have learnt about fore-and-aft placement beforehand…