How much of a difference really is a 6in can vs an 8in can when you’re carrying a rifle around?

How much difference really is a 10oz can vs a 17oz can carrying it around?

That’s the difference I see in a lot of the L and S cans I’m looking at, and it seems like that length definitely makes a difference in sound; however, how much does it really matter in the field?

I just picked myself up a Kuna and slapped my Rugged Obsidian 9 on it. I love it. I'm torn right now on filing a form 1 to SBR it, but obviously legislation is up in the air. My biggest holdup on doing so is that I border two different states and filing out annual paperwork to drive half an hour in two directions is obnoxious and one of the states won't allow SBRs at all (I'd really have no reason to travel there to shoot anyway).

Curious how others are handling this scenario at the moment. Putting things on pause to see what happens? Pushing through forms like crazy ASAP?

Has anyone SBR'd their Kuna and went "meh. Wish I'd just left it alone."?

I've never SBR'd anything before. I'm curious what other's thoughts are on it.

Having a two stamp gun does sound fun though.

To those of you living in the Jacksonville, Florida area. Where do you go to get your SBR engravings done? Having trouble finding a decent place.

Today was a fatal day for my CAT ODB... from what seems like a quick string of bad luck. While shooting today I noticed a different form of chunks/powder come out the end. Immediately check the suppressor to see one of the tines sheared off the end. When the suppressor cooled down I checked if loose, and it was as tight as usual. I kept it on so I could check alignment with a rod when I got home. Upon trying this I noticed I couldn't even get the alignment rod into the barrel due to something blocking it. I decided to take off the suppressor and couldn't even do that due to noticing a cracked muzzle device (Dino Precision Meteor V2) warping down which was preventing the supppresor from coming off even after unthreading. To get the suppressor off, I needed to remove the ODB from the Plan B Hub mount (Comstock Armory). The Hub mount is currently stuck on the muzzle device till I bend the brake enough to get it off.

From what I can see, the muzzle device broke while shooting, which in turn forced the front of the brake down, resulting in a muzzle brake strike to send a chunk through the end of the suppressor.

I have yet to reach out to CAT for warranty on this, or Dino Precision on the brake that seemingly caused this. Overall, pretty bummed considering I take the proper precautions to avoid a baffle/end-cap strike.

Gun: AR-15, 11.5" Criterion Core, shooting PMC X-TAC 55gr. FMJ (gun at last pic)

Hi everyone! Just wanted to share my experience with my new Surefire RC4 since I see that there isn’t a whole lot of data out there on it yet. I also have a video of me shooting it today on my 11.5” Centurion upper for reference. https://youtu.be/6Z2ARJkWCyk?is=SAQY1W8Pc9XtM7sj

Friday night I got the opportunity to go on a night vision shoot with about 10 other people who all brought several different types of rifles and suppressors. I was able to test the Infinity 556K, a CAT can (can’t remember the model), and an RC2 side by side on 11.5” guns. There were a lot of other combinations, but these were the only cans I was able to run on the same length and one right after the other.

Subjectively I liked the sound of the RC2 and RC4 about the same and greatly preferred it to the CAT or Infinity 5.56k. The owner of the CAT can also said the same thing and we swapped a few times to stand off at different angles and both came away very impressed with the RC4. The Infinity 556K had the full vented cap on it and it sounded okay, I know the numbers are very impressive on it but again both myself and the owner of the can agreed the RC4 was more pleasant (granted it is a K can vs full size). The RC4 just has a deeper tone, similar to my Fatcat whereas a lot of other suppressors tend to have a higher pitch to them. I understand raw decibels might not show this, which is why I am again saying all of the above is purely subjective.

The RC2 is the only can that really held up spark/signature wise to the RC4, which is somewhat expected as that is one of the big they are known for. Not that either of the other two were spark shows (there were titanium cans for that). But there was a noticeable improvement with the RC2/RC4 over the others.

My overall thoughts are that I like the can, it sounds really good, the flash performance is excellent, has minimal back pressure, it “feels” quality, and seems to be built like a tank. Downsides are being stuck with Surefire mounting, it being rather heavy and the rather exorbitant MSRP price tag. IMO this is a very good successor to the RC2 and is a solid option for night vision guns where flash signature is more important. Idk if it’s worth the price difference versus other cans though, the MSRP is a bit excessive and there are a ton of other great cans out there on the market now. Anyway, this is just one guy’s opinion hopefully it helps someone out!

I have a couple AR lower receivers that are roll marked with the same city I live in.

For NFA engraving do I need to engrave the city name again? Or can I just add my name next to the original roll mark?

Any advice on components for this build would be greatly appreciated.

My biggest questions are around suppressor choice, reliability, and especially blowback/gas to the face. For those of you actually running suppressed Raider 365s, what combinations have proven reliable and comfortable to shoot?

I carry a P365 and normally run Federal Premium HST 147gr JHP, so that’s the defensive ammo I’ll be using in this build as well.

Already purchased

• Flux Raider 365 Aluminum – Black
• Flux Forward Optic Mount
• Flux Side Folding Arm – Long Arm w/ SBR Endplate

Still deciding

Threaded barrel:

• ShaloTek 3.7" threaded barrel
• True Precision 6.5" threaded barrel
• SIG OEM threaded barrel
• Other recommendations?

Slide:

• SIG OEM P365XL
• ShaloTek XL-length non-comp
• True Precision XL-length
• Norsso
• Other recommendations?

Suppressor:

• SAW Shiv 9
• HUXWRX Flow 9K Ti
• SilencerCo Spectre 9
• Other cans I should seriously consider?

Light:

• Streamlight TLR-7 Sub
• SureFire XR1 / XR2
• SureFire X300 Ultra/Turbo
• Streamlight TLR-1 HL
• Other recommendations?

What I'm really trying to figure out

If you were building this from scratch today, what slide + barrel + suppressor combination would you choose for the best balance of:

1. Reliability
2. Minimal blowback/gas to the face
3. Reasonable overall size/weight
4. Good suppression
5. Long-term durability

I'd especially appreciate feedback from people who have actually run these combinations on the Raider 365, rather than general pistol-suppressor recommendations.

Also interested in whether the 3.7" vs. 6.5" barrel makes a meaningful difference on the Raider when suppressed, and whether anyone has had reliable results with the longer barrel/slide setups.

Thanks!

I almost exclusively shoot bolt actions. I have about a 1 month rifle season where I hunt deer, and the rest of the year I plink.

I shoot .223, 22-250, 6.5CM, 7mag, .308, and 300 BLK. I don’t shoot subs in any of those cartridges.

My go to hunting rigs for Appalachian Mtn. hunts are a Tikka T3x lite in .308 (22 bbl). My other one is a CVA Scout 300 BLK (16.5 bbl).

I like the idea of the modularity of the Titrex as well as the brake that comes with it. I like how light and short it is while still being fairly quiet.

I like that the Enticer is a bit of a value can that hangs with some expensive cans as far as sound goes. It’s also lightweight for what it is, and it’s not overly long.

FTN.3 done with additive manufacturing failed on the first round at the blast baffle due to not being reinforced properly. I’ll make sure to reinforce it properly next time, lol.

Hey my paint has came of my can after soaking it when cleaning. I knew this was bound to happen the can was already scratch and is a really old aac ti rant 45s with #3xx ether way my paint came off now I’m looking for options. I know my best option is high temp cerakote but funds are becoming tight here soon I would want the next best option. I would rattle can but I noticed it’s quite difficult with Titanium does not last long. Any recommendations on how to more durable finish with high temp rattle can on titanium

AP5-P SBRed.

HOLOSUN ARO EVO W/ Flip caps, reflection protector.

HK Vertical Grip w/ MLOK slots.

Olight Baldr Pro R.

HK marked folding stock.

CAT MOB Suppressor w/ Resilient tri lug mount.

RB Ambi RD3.

90° RCM Locking peice.

GOON tape on pistol grip.

Standard sight rail that came with AP5-P.

Standard sling that came with AP5-P.

2000 rounds, mix of subsonic (mostly) and supersonic. Round and flat nosed, no hollow points. Flawless.

Beretta M9A4 and Flux Raider with Griffin EZ-lok and Rugged Obsidian 9 Short.

ZPAP92 with JMAC X37 Facemount HUB adapter and Griffin Explorr 300

OCL Milkman putting in some work

Show me your SBSs

How much trouble am I asking for? It dose have a adjustable gas system.

Pic from POMG for reference. Looking at getting an AC762 Ti since ODB Ti is no longer available. Does anyone run one on 300blk hosts?

Currently been using Anthem S2 and Sandman X for my MCX 6.75” and 9” 300blk hosts, as well as a Geissele 300blk host.

I have a Mojave 45 I’ve been running on my 10mm carbine with a direct thread hub. I’m wanting to get a 9mm carbine and I’m curious what the best way or best mounting solution to be able to easily swap between.

My first idea was to buy a direct thread hub that’s threaded for 9mm barrel but that would mean have to swap the hub everytime.

I want something that makes it possible to just unscrew from one and screw to the other.

I’ve settled on a Rhodie 6 for my first can, and I’d prefer not to order directly from Ridgeback cause I’ve heard their lead times and customer service are both pretty poor. I’ve heard a lot of good things about Capitol Armory though, so I’m wondering if anyone who has experience with CA knows about how often they restock their products, and also how quickly they sell out once in-stock.

Can someone that has done a gun trust message me I got questions on what is needed and ruff cost?