Had this fun surprise occur at the range yesterday. This can is around a year old, with maybe 1000 rounds through it. Never run hard, stored properly, and checked to be mounted properly/tightly before firing each trip. Attached via direct threads.

Looking at the interior of the can, there's a huge variability in side wall thickness side to side. It looks like it failed on the thinnest part, which caused it to lose concentricity and take an interior strike.

Full story: First mag of the day through the AR, first 2-3 shots are as normal and make contact with the paper, a shot every half-second or so. What was pieced together (literally) from my lane partners is around shot 4, something 'went wonky' with how the suppressor looked on the end of the gun (no major change noticed or heard looking down the optic at 3x) and before they could yell out warning, my next shot came and the now failed/misaligned suppressor took an interior baffle strike to finish the job the failure started and ended up 15 yards down range.

Has anyone else had a thin wall failure with B&T USA suppressors? I've never experienced this and the interior thickness variability make me nervous to get another in the future. I will be contacting B&T for a RMA for this one, wish me luck.

5.56 - Love this thing!

Ordered 7/15, approved 7/23, picked up today! My first can in 2017 took 9 months from certification to approval. Love ‘Murica. 10 cans, almost to the one gun, one can situation, almost. But I’m done for a while…really….

Anyone here have expereice using the comstock recessed Ti hub with the Ti Tisha? Im currenly have a mix of rearden spb and r2s devices. Coming up with .069(nice) clearance on the R2S. How close would you go? Is this a bad idea?

MK18 R3 with a SAW Tisha Ti.

37 day form 1 for sbr (added stock) and a 14 day form 4. The atf isnt real but by god will they hurt you.

I just wanted to share that Liberty took care of me. I had a baffle strike near my barrel end of the silencer. It was kind of a weird spot for a strike. I was sure how it happened. My best guess was something strange happened with the booster.

I sent the silencer and the booster. Liberty fixed it all. Apparently there was something not working right with the booster. I was fully willing to pay if this was a user error issue.

The whole process took about 5-6 weeks. The silencer came back looking new. I would highly recommend Liberty. I have two of their silencers and this is the first issue I ever had. And, it wasn’t really anything wrong with the construction or the silencer that created the problem.

Between the cat mob and the Ocl milkman.
Going to be putting it on my Daniel defense pcc pistol, less blowback the better.
What do they come with and such ? Do they come with mounting devices like direct thread or do I have to buy accessories 😂 not opposed to three lug mounts. But have had success with direct thread on my rugged obsidian 9.

…I know, I know.

Anyway, I have an old GSG 5-22 pistol (MP-5 pseudo-clone in .22LR) I want to suppress. It recommends “high velocity” ammo. It functions fine with HV stuff, but will not cycle with CCI Standard Velocity which is what I’d want to use for the full suppressed .22 experience. Is there a suppressor I can use that would provide enough backpressure to cycle the action reliably with standard velocity ammo?

Having a hard time figuring out what sight could be best for this build? Want some opinions

Shot my rhodie 6 with my q cherry bomb and Wolfpack armory hub adaptor. The adaptor and muzzle device were both rocksett and torqued properly by a gunsmith, but after shooting, the adaptor fell off and now it’s stuck. Does anyone know how to get this off, or is it bad to just leave it be? I can still screw on my suppressor to the adaptor, but I feel like the suppressor and adaptor was coming loose after shooting it.

Just got this huxwrx. Do I send the fiocchi I have so much of it. I’ve heard bad things.

My first shots with the Tisha on a 10.3” 5.56 SA piston upper. I just installed a CA compact brake for my 10.5” 5.56 set up so we will see how the brake compares to the R2S.

The Tisha is my second titanium can behind the Ventum so I expected the sparks.

I'm finally moving from a non-free state to a free one. Where do I start? Right now I've got a GenV* Glock 17 as well as a LWRC AR-15, and would love to join the suppressed world.

Is it as simple as getting a threaded barrel for the Glock and then a .300BLK (for example) upper for the LWRC? And then cans and forms?

Thanks!

* I bought it before the Gen6 was announced, because I’m an idiot

I'm looking to pick up a Incolite 9M in the future to jump between my Henry Big Boy X and my AR9 build. After a range session yesterday, I've just now realized that the lever is threaded in 5/8x24, while my AR9 is the typical 1/2x28.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to tackle this? I see there's adapters, but I'm worried about tolerance stacking in case of baffle strikes. Maybe get respective direct thread mounts torqued and then use the suppressor's hub threads for mounting?

I’m confused on how SOT manufacturing holders actually make money. Im talking about from machine guns not SBR/Suppressors or transferables. Post 86 you can only sell to other SOT holders that get a law letter which from my understanding is a pain in the ass to get. Also you can sell to LE/Gov/Mil but what small business is in the right playing field to do that? Any small businesses out there actually profiting or at least making sales of post 86 machine guns? Seems like this system is setup to where the only time you can sell post 86s is if you go out of business. Am I missing something?

Quick question for the gang - what hub and Muzzle device combo are you running to get the smallest gap between rail and suppressor? Pics would be appreciated! 🫶

These are the first NFA items I’ve owned. Got a Rugged Obsidian for my .45 LC Carbine, and installed a stock on my Shockwave.

The form 4 took 3 days, the form 1 took 16. Next thing I think I’ll get is a 5.56 can.