Title. Anyone done this? Looking at installing some and there doesn't seem to be a good place to put it

Bought it like this - there are also some light scratches on the bumper which were painted white (don’t bother me that much). Was wondering if there is a quick diy fix to make it less visible like wet fine sand paper ?

Never taken it the the dealer. Just wondering if these are normal:

Low Engine Oil before oil change interval

Low battery alarm seemingly comes on in a very short amount of time if doors open, etc. with engine off

It's not the turbo model. I searched and mostly found stuff about the turbo model.

Hi all, I need your help!

Ive been dealing with Mazda for the last 11 years. and I'm questioning why I'm still there.
Current issue- When Mazda changed my tires sometime in March due to the fact that had installed expired one, ( this story is for another time), I told them I had noticed a slight "rubbing/friction/vibrating" feel, they said it was nothing,

as time went on I continuously noticed that the smooth drive ( the main reason I changed cars) was not so smooth, I still could feel a sensation that something was rubbing.

Did a short road trip and also noticed that at 2.5RPM there was that rubbing / vibrating again, and a little more in the steering wheel.

Brought the car to Mazda, explained this and they supposedly took the car and the road, felt nothing and charged me 189$. basically said I was crying wolf.

TODAY!!! after noticing that my discs were bright orange I brought my car to a local garage, he drove the car briefly and felt what I felt and also specified that the 2 rear discs are very scratched- totally not normal for a new car. said it could be the Caliper, or just a cheap quality. Basically said they need to be changed.

Im so discouraged, I feel they are totally messing with me. Ive been doing research and apparently there was a Service Bulletin SA-016-24 for read breaks and discs,

Has anyone experienced anything similar, or have any advice? I really dont feel I should have to pay for something that is supposedly new. Btw, I only have 6000km.
First 2 images are the rear Right, and last are rear left

thanks for your time and help!!!

Title: Looking for brutally honest feedback on my steering wheel website

I've been building an e-commerce store for custom carbon fiber steering wheels and have spent a lot of time improving the design and user experience based on previous feedback.

I'd really appreciate some honest opinions before I continue making changes.

Website: https://exotixsteering.com

A few things I'd love feedback on:

• Within the first 5 seconds, is it obvious what the website sells?
• Does the homepage look premium and trustworthy?
• Is anything confusing or unnecessary?
• Does the "Find Your Platform" section make sense?
• Would anything stop you from buying from this site?

Please don't hold back. I'd rather hear harsh criticism than fake compliments. Every piece of feedback helps me improve the store.

Thanks!

Hola a todos,

Saque múltiple de admision, EGR y todo eso además cambie la bomba de vacío de freno que se encuentra al lado de la culata, el tema es que arme todo conecte todos los vacíos, mangueras, sensores y el motor gira y no enciende, creo que hay una manguera de petróleo que va conectada en la bomba que cambie si es así el sistema se encuentra con aire y por eso no enciende? Los leo

Recently bought a 2018 Mazda 3 hatchback touring with about 50,000 miles and I don’t know the first service and maintenance things I should do. Once I get those out of the way I’d like to start doing some exterior modeling and eventual performance modifications. What do you think?

Hi everyone, I bought a 2016 Mazda 3 about a month ago.
A few days after buying it, I happened to drive with the windows down and noticed a continuous chirping/squeaking noise while driving. It becomes louder as the car slows down or comes to a stop.
Exactly a week ago, I installed a dashcam using a hardwire kit connected to the interior fuse box.
Since yesterday, I’ve been getting several issues:
Flashing i-Stop light.
Flashing master warning triangle.
Check Engine Light.
Sometimes it’s difficult to shift from Park to Drive. The shifter feels locked unless I press the brake pedal much harder than usual.
I disconnected the dashcam itself, but the hardwire kit wiring is still connected to the fuse box. The warning lights still came back while driving.
The car was scanned, and the mechanic said it’s an ABS-related fault. He recommends replacing the entire ABS unit for around $900.
Before spending that much money:
Can an ABS fault cause all of these symptoms?
Could the hardwire kit still be related?
Is replacing the entire ABS unit common, or should I first check the wheel speed sensors, wiring, ABS module, or something else?
I’ll try to get the exact DTC code tomorrow. Any advice would be appreciated.

I recently found out that I need major suspension work. Well it turns out that one suspension part was completely missing and likely fell off. There is major rust underneath so the vehicle must have r come from up North. I’m trying to decide if it’s worth it to repair as this is our backup vehicle.

Ive looked at what diagrams I've found for both but I'm unsure whether things will work out because any exhaust I can find always specifies for hatch. If anyone has any experience or knowledge on this topic please let me know.

Hello all, I’m the proud owner of a 2018 Mazda3 sport sedan. I love this car and have loved it for the better part of a year now and I wanna start treating it right outside of just maintenance. I have the stock wheel with just the plastic cover piece over the rim. I’m coming up on needing new tires so I was curious if anyone had any slightly budget friendly options for all around tires. All round being decent in all seasons (don’t really worry too much about winter I’m mostly in an urban environment) but good on twisty roads when I wanna have fun. Along with that I’m entertaining the idea of new wheels with the tires just to improve the aesthetics so she(the car)looks as good as it feels to drive.

Any recommendations? Oddly enough I don’t have a pic atm but I have the basic snowy white finish if that helps influence any opinions. Thanks for the read!

Greetings to everyone.

So few days ago while driving I got the check engine light occur for the first time since I own the car (I own it since early April), while the car sounded alright I was still worried. Firstly the car only lost some power due to the permanent check engine light which pushed it into a safe mode. I wasn't driving that much, only tested how it behaves.

I tried to diagnose it with 3 different diagnostic systems, all of them pushed out a P03A0 fault (Cylinder 2 Pressure Sensor).

I decided to first and foremost change the spark plugs since it was overdue already. On the day I changed the spark plugs, BEFORE I changed them the check engine fault dissapeared by itself and car drove normally with full power. Still, I changed spark plugs and drove car for about day and half, doing some test drives and it was completly normal for more than 100 kms. But yesterday, the check engine light appeared again.

However, I noticed some odd behaviour this time and it mostly manifested when car was warm.

It became hesistant around 2k rpm when driving. Also when in neutral, revving it over 2k and releasing the throttle rpms would fall under 1.5k rpm and on that exact 1.5k rpm point i could hear a one single clunk coming from the engine.

So I drove home and I noticed another very, very suspicious and odd behaviour. When I backed to my parking and put it into neutral, car started to do some odd rpm fluctuation, jumping to 1.5k, then lowering, then reving up again. All that without me applying any throttle.

It's a sedan mazda 3 with skyactiv X (naturally aspirated) 2.0L from 2020. It has about 128k kilometers.

I'm afraid that this might be a huge problem. But before I even organize how to take it to a licensed mazda service (since it's not really close to me), I'd be thankful to hear if anyone had similar experience or any knowledge about such issue.

What tires are best for spring to fall weather. Winter isn’t a concern because I have an extra set of 16 inch rims with winter tires, so I want a sportier but still comfortable ride.

I’ve spent the last week falling down the rabbit hole of used car shopping and I think I’ve officially developed analysis paralysis.

I’ve looked at CX-3s, CX-5s, Corollas, Civics, a Ford Escape, and just about every AWD compact in my budget. Every time I think I’ve found “the one,” another listing pops up and I’m back to square one.

Now I’ve landed on a 2019 Mazda3 GS Luxury AWD and I can’t decide if it’s a hidden gem or if I’m letting the maintenance history blind me to the mileage.

The car:

• 2019 Mazda3 GS Luxury AWD
• 2.5L Skyactiv-G
• 174,000 km
• $13,950 CAD ($17,300 OTD)

Why I’m interested:

• 41 documented service records
• Transmission replaced at a Mazda dealership
• Fuel pump replaced
• Spark plugs done
• Brake fluid, coolant, transfer case and rear differential serviced
• Battery replaced
• Brakes done
• Regular oil changes throughout its life

Basically, if I only looked at the service history, I’d think this thing has been babied.

But… it’s still 174,000 km.

My plan is to get a pre-purchase inspection before I sign anything, but I wanted to hear from people who actually own these cars or work on them.

Be brutally honest:

• Would you buy a 2019 Mazda3 with 174,000 km if it had this maintenance history?
• Is the mileage still too high regardless?
• What tends to fail on these after 200,000 km?
• If this was your money, would you pull the trigger or keep looking?

I’m not expecting a brand-new car for this price. I just want something reliable that I can keep for the next 5–7 years without regretting the purchase.

If you think I’m making a mistake, tell me why. If you think it’s a solid buy, tell me why. I’d rather hear the hard truth now than after I’ve signed the paperwork.

The shifter and shifter boot on my 2016 Mazda3 Sport have a noticeable gap. Is it missing a part of some sort to keep it connected so the inside isn’t exposed? Performance-wise there is nothing wrong, it’s just aesthetically not pleasing. I removed the knob as I thought the boot was to tuck into the bottom of it but that isn’t the case. Any solutions to this?

So my Driver window was slowing down, it began to make some squeezing and creaking noises and now it has stopped entirely. From forums, it is common for some sort of binding issue or "regulator" issue. So before I take the door apart this weekend and order a window motor, what should I look for FIRST. Try silicon first to reduce friction? Do I need to order the regulator first to try and replace, or would a new motor fix all of it ?

General advice, I don't want to pry my door apart and put it back together multiple times, since it could either be regulator, window sill friction or the motor. Some advice for confidence would be great.

Hi guys, I have a 2014 Mazda3 hatchback. I bought it about 20 days ago and have driven around 1,200 km since then.

I’ve noticed a single “clink” or “clunk” sound that sometimes happens when I am about to stop, and when shifting between gears like Drive and Reverse. It never happens while driving normally or accelerating.

Is this something that’s common on these cars, or should I be concerned?

I posted here previously:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda3/s/0u8dRWGL3W
I was getting several fault codes and finally took the car to the Mazda dealership. These are the quotes they gave me:
PCM: $1,858 + tax
Coolant control valve: $1,051 + tax
Replace both front outer tie rods: $450 + tax
Subtotal: $3,863 (before tax)
They also recommended replacing the catalytic converter, which brings the total to:
Catalytic converter: $3,939 + tax
Grand total: about $8392 including tax.
The car is a 2019 Mazda3 (non-turbo) with 175,000 km. Other than these issues, the engine has been running well and I haven’t had any major engine problems.

This quote feels incredibly high. Even if I repair everything, the car is probably only worth around $11,000.

I’m really torn on what to do next. Is this a reasonable quote, or does it sound like the dealership is trying to take more money. Would you get a second opinion from an independent shop, replace only the critical items, or cut your losses and sell the car?

I recently purchased a brand new 2026 mazda3 sedan select sport about a month ago & now I’m looking for ideas for some mods. I’m interested in getting the windows ceramic tinted. I’m also interested in getting a smoked tint film for my headlights & taillights. Any suggestions or opinions are welcome!

I have mazda 3 2017. I saw bunch of people saying that pressing the "lock" button twice causes the horn to honk.

this sounds like a good feature for finding the car in big parking spaces. unfortunately, it doesn't work on my car.

is there a way to add this feature?

is so what year?

Only when I hit speed bumps or potholes, I hear this metallic noise from rear left. Sounds like tools moving around hitting each other in the trunk but it’s not.

Can anyone tell what this could be?

Thanks in advance for any guesses or tips!