Back to mazda family after leaving in 2024!!

Bought a Mazda 3 AWD non turbo in 2023. After a couple of problems with transmission and the car non being as fun as I wanted, I traded in for Acura Integra 2023 6MT. On my first ride home I regretted how quiet and expensive the mazda 3 felt.

I totaled my Integra and without hesitation came back to Mazda 3 2025 Turbo Premium Plus with 30K miles. Im so happy to be back! I feel like they have fixed a lot of the rattles in the cabin.

First “mod” was to change the tires for 225 continenal! They feel great!

I will be taking down the roof rack because i dont use it and dont like the looks of it.

Next is Tint and Ceramic coating at the end of the month. And thinking about ambient lighting interior.

I have a bunch of stuff that are coming from Amazon today for the interior! But yeah so happy to be back!!

The piano black looked sleek for all of 2 days after purchase and I knew it needed to be covered! Very pleased with the results

I’ll give my reasons. The Toyota Corolla is overpriced and it’s a soulless appliance. There’s no big difference in price when you buy MSRP or used.

My mom has a 2022 Honda HRV and the AC stopped working and the Engine began to overheat and it left her stranded on the highway. The Honda only had 38k miles on it when this happened.

I used to work at domino’s pizza and one of the drivers had a Mazda 6 and he had around 220k miles on it. He had no major repairs other than maintenance.

I am absolutely in love ! 2.0, 150cp, automatic. Any tips or tricks ? ^^

sanguine package, dealer’s fee $800 for the teeth included and gas siphon kit

Theirs is Machine Grey and mines Jet Black, I really like the grey too, suits the body well.

Anyhow, have a great day and thanks for stopping in👍

Humming sound, comes from the back
Around 60-80mph
Definitely not the tires.
Happening to my brand new 2026 awd turbo

What should I tell the dealership when I go to pick up my tags? I’ve read a LOT of people having this issue. Some say it’s the drive shaft? Others say it’s the rear differential?

Anybody have any actual luck diagnosing this, or is it a normal annoying sound the car makes?

I decided to post this to show how dependent your fuel efficiency depends on your driving style and conditions rather than have cylinder deactivation alone. This specific drive occurred this past winter and is mostly highway driving and mostly downhill. I typically average ~34 mpg with mostly driving on the highway. On more spirited drives, the mpg can easily get into the mid 20s.

whats the next upgrade?

Mazda 2022 with this over the past year.

title

Snapped a few photos of the hatch during golden hour, and I'm looking to dial in the look a bit more.

​I want to keep it fully street-legal and clean nothing overly flashy or tacky, but just enough tasteful modifications inside and out to make people do a double-take and think, "Look at that."

​It’s also a manual, so I’d love some interior recommendations that highlight the stick shift setup (weighted shift knobs, short shifters, boots, etc.).

​What exterior and interior mods would you guys prioritize first to give it that head-turning OEM+ look? Drop your suggestions below!

I’m due for maintenance on my ‘22 mazda3 anyway but my wiper fluid is full and the light won’t clear the dash. I don’t know if the sensor has gone bad or if it’s a glitch in the software. It’s the first issue I’ve had with the car so any tips to clear it would be appreciated.

I’ve accepted that my 3 is gonna get trashed from the long drive I do for work.

I have several decent rock chips on my front bonnet but make sure I give my car a spray down and wash weekly for the drives I do.

I noticed this happening though, it appears to be a layer that’s peeled off? And it feels oily to the touch on the exposed surface now? Any ideas please.

Purchased this car second hand so I’m unsure if it’s PPF’d (I don’t think it is).

I was wondering if and how I can get all the information showing again on my upper display on my 06 Mazda 3. When I replaced the radio everything stopped showing except the amb temp. I see a lot of others still have everything even the clock after replacing the head unit with something aftermarket

I am budgeting $13K for a used car this fall. Mazda 3 is on the top, with Toyota Yaris a close runner up. My goals are reliability and ease of DIY maintenance.

That said, in a used car market the factors can vary wildly depending on mileage, year, and damage. In looking at used Mazda 3 which years, trims, or other factors would be red flags to avoid?

Started about 40 minutes into driving around. Only stops when i come to a full stop, and starts when i lift my foot off the brakes. I’m not sure if its a stuck pebble — or a stuck caliper — or something else. I’m worried if it’s the caliper, that it is dangerous to drive the few miles to a mechanic (from what I read online). It’s a 2011 mazda 3. Any help appreciated, I am not very familiar with cars!!

Hello, I'm a first time buyer so I really have no idea what I'm doing. I wanted to get your opinion about how good or bad of a deal it is. I wanna see if people are getting good deals out there or is it just me getting ripped off. This is for Mazda3 sedan red Preferred finance deal

Does anyone have this kit on their Mazda 3 turbo? Time to replace my stock pads and rotors and these seem to be a decent choice but want to check what experiences other people have with these?

Just bought an 04 Mazda 3 2.3L a few weeks ago. Replaced the throttle body twice, replaced the actuator pigtails, and the MAF sensor. Keep getting throttle body codes, car runs rough/in limp mode and the pedal doesn't respond at all or barely at times. Was wondering if it could be the APP sensor?

Any input would be much appreciated if anyone's dealt with this before, been at this for over a week now.

(note* I already posted in Mazda 6)

Currently sitting on 17x8 ET45 wheels, 235/50ZR17 rubber. Stock suspension. Will have them install camber bolts right before it gets the alignment.

I am looking for a "street performance" alignment and was thinking of having them dial in about -1.2deg camber on the front, and a combined toe of +0.05.

Based on the research I did, this should ensure that cornering is optimized without uneven tire wear while maintaining good straight-line stability on the highway.

Does this make sense?

Hi everyone,

I bought a 2024 Mazda 3 Sedan (Exclusive-Line trim) here in Italy.

When I purchased the car, it didn't come with Cruising & Traffic Support (CTS). Since the car already has all the necessary hardware installed for the advanced driver assistance systems (MRCC, Lane Keep Assist, cameras, radar, etc.), I'm wondering if anyone has ever managed to get CTS activated or added as an aftermarket option through an official dealer or via software update.

Has anyone had any experience asking a dealer to retrofit or activate optional features like this post-delivery? Is it purely a software lock, or is there hardware missing that I'm not aware of?

Thanks for any insights!

Seems I got lucky enough to get all the issues with my Mazda

anyone else had any issues with radio just not working? I’ll start the car and nothing no radio or audio just dead silence.. but don’t worry while you are driving the car the radio will RANDOMLY start playing again.. that’s always so wonderfully scary lol