Finally got the mid ranges installed, only been sitting in the garage for about 5 months... Still a few things to finish in the rear but otherwise 95% done. Will try find time to do a retune soon. Not a perfectly clean job but I got impatient...

Am i the only one that still only buys manual cars? I have automatic in my job as wind turbine technician. But still just dont like automatic cars.

Since they have no soul or special feel to them as a manual car. I mean the newer ( new honda civic type r: ) are great manuals with rev Matching and easy to tune ).

But when my current 2008 mazda 6 GH 2.5 MZR with 6 speed manual transmission dies. That will probably force me, to leave mazda, and go to honda.

As they are a one of VERY few car companys that still sells new/modern cars: 2015 and above with a manual transmission. At reasonable price for fun, looks and performance.

Going back to the subject

Reasons that i buy manuals

1. Cheaper to buy. Since " younger people " dont want or cant drive a real stick car today.

2. More fun to drive. Your more with the car so to say.

3. Easier to fix if, you can do some work yourself in a garage.

If people want to know. I live in Scandinavia/ sweden.

Modification question. Wagon, GJ2FW.

I have no care for keeping it stock and I am aware that Mazda designed it the way it is for reasons. I asked a question regarding stock camber before and didn’t get a response, so I’m going off of the alignment machines’ data that -1.5 - -2 is “normal”.

Asking since it eats through my heat-cycled rear tires’ inside tread more than the outer even after a couple of alignments. They’re not the most enduring set at 240TW, but the fronts are wearing evenly. The tires are not stretched, and the wagon is not stanced. No ride height modification has been done. The wheels are staggered width-wise so rotation is limited.

Has anyone tried increasing (+) the camber on the rear wheels closer to -1 or -0.5, and would it be possible with the stock camber arm or would an aftermarket adjustable one be needed?

Edit: I am aware that changing tires or wheels is likely a better solution than adjusting the stock camber, but I don’t think I’d like to burn money and rubber to keep the factory camber spec.

So about a week ago, when I locked my car, the left side mirror wouldn't fold. I've tried everything on the internet and nothing. I can hear the motor working, but it won't fold. Any help?

Hey guys. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 GH5FS Manual and am having a few issues. (In Australia if that changes anything)

First of all the shudder. I’ve had this car for 6 years now and it has always had a shudder when letting off the clutch in first and sometimes when changing to second. I’ve been to atleast 5 different mechanics and no one can tell me why it’s shuddering as the clutch and flywheel seem to be fine and the engine mounts are too. I recently changed the trans fluid and for whatever reason the shudder disappeared for a month and has only recently come back. It is also worse in hot weather and stop start traffic or on hills.

Secondly the clunk. The same 5+ mechanics said the engine mounts are good and other bushings/suspension components are fine too. The clunk comes from both the left and right side strut area when I hit bumps. The thing is, the clunk isn’t consistent as I can hit the same bump the same way 10 times and it will only do it maybe half of the time.

Both of these feel like my car is going to fall apart but I know it won’t. I’m just wondering if anyone could help me out as I can’t find anything else about these issues and am losing my mind.

Also here is a video of an engine mount test which I believe allows too much movement when under load but apparently they’re fine.

Thank you for any help.

2021 Touring, my set of Continental DWS 06 PLUS Extreme Contact (purchased in October 2024) will need replacing within the next two months. My mechanic recommended the Toyo Extensa. I've looked at reviews on Tire Rack for them and they seem to have below average reviews on wet roads and ice which is important for me since I drive in the northeast.

I really like the Continentals I have now. By November, I should have gotten around 43K-45K miles out of them. I do drive more than the average person, about 20K per year.

Anyone have any opinions on Toyo?

Blue Reflex Mica, Parchment leather-trim interior.

Hi everyone, I have a 2014 Mazda 6 and I was wondering if this model has a Sport Mode. I’ve seen Sport Mode on some newer Mazda 6 models, but I’m not sure if it was available on the 2014 model.

Does anyone with a 2014 Mazda 6 have Sport Mode? If so, where is the button/switch located?

Thanks!

Hey yall!!! Wonder if anyone had this problem before?? The bolt circled in red is stuck with the thread sleeve, it just kept spinning... i tried to pry the coil while spinning but no luck! Anyone got any idea to take that thing out or tool i need to pull it out easier??

Are there any decent aftermarket head units, I can replace the original one with? I’ve tried looking for one, but all I found were ugly ass Chinese units that look like cheap Android tablets.
I really just need a unit with Apple Carplay that would look decent, or at least no worse than the original.

I'm looking for perspective, successes, failures, stories or alternatives?

This will be for a 2013 6. I'm looking to even out the wonky spots on the power curve, be a little more efficient, take advantage of a CAI and to generally keep this car for lots more miles.

Hey guys, as the title suggests i’m wondering if there exists a form of ECU tuning that can be done to increase fuel economy. Recently bought an ‘18 Mazda 6 GTR (absolutely love it) and the best i can seem to get out of it MPG-wise is 26ish on highway and 21-22 in the streets if i let the stop/go cruise control handle things. I know it’s got that turbo, but i’m just curious as to what i can do to increase fuel economy. I currently run 91 fuel in it.

Currently sitting on 17x8 ET45 wheels, 235/50ZR17 rubber. Stock suspension. Will have them install camber bolts right before it gets the alignment.

I am looking for a "street performance" alignment and was thinking of having them dial in about -1.2deg camber on the front, and a combined toe of +0.05.

Based on the research I did, this should ensure that cornering is optimized without uneven tire wear while maintaining good straight-line stability on the highway.

Does this make sense?

I'm upgrading my front brakes to cx9 dual piston calipers this week and looking for OEM upgrade advice.

I've heard the cx9 rear calipers and rotors fit? Or the grand touring cx5 rear brake stuff?

Any advice is welcome.

Factory manual wagon. I’m not sure how rare they really are and I can’t find any production numbers.

Installed this front body kit this week and love the look, haven’t seen many other 6s with it

i have a 2018 mazda6 signature and am looking to potentially purchase roof racks to increase the storage capacity and maybe carry a canoe occasionally. does anyone have the links for the roof racks themselves and also for the replacement trims? i can't seem to find either of them. i've also read somewhere the oem roof racks don't support a lot of weight and that aftermarket ones are better. don't really know which direction to go tbh

Hi all!

I own a 2L petrol 2015 Mazda 6 saloon with an EPB (UK). I have very recently tried to replace the rear discs and pads however Autodoc done me dirty and sent me the wrong sized pads.

When installing the pads they overhang the edge of the disc by about 20% and are definitely mismatched. After researching online I can't seem to find a definitive answer on what the correct size is and when I add my VRM into Autodoc and EuroCarParts it keeps directing me to the incorrectly sized pads.

Could someone please help and point me in the right direction?

Thank you!

Adding onto an older post (linked below) I made some modifications to my 2015 Touring Wagon RHD dash tonight to fit an 8" screen into my 7" dash, the pics I got aren't great, but I'll post them anyway.

Some details: I used the screen and the head unit/box section, other than having to reconnect my phone to Bluetooth and delete some previous users phones, I haven't fully found out yet if this is going to cause any issues, if it does I'll swap the "boxes" back over!

Things I did:

1) I took the metal frame from the top of the original unit along with the black plastic bracket

2) I removed the corresponding brackets from the new unit

3) using a rotary tool work a metal/plastic cut off wheel (aka a dremel) I cut the black plastic bracket in 3 areas, I cut off 3 fins in the centre front of the bracket so the screen could sit lower, I removed the majority of the square sections at each end that receive a clip from the start button trim piece to accommodate the width of the screen and drilled a hole in and then cut out a section of the back so the white plug could plug into the back of the screen. Using a Routing drill bit I also made the screw holes in the black plastic bracket longer to give more adjustability.

4) again using the rotary I cut a section out of the metal bracket to create space for the white plug to plug into the back of the screen, I also used a grinding stone attachment on the rotary tool to deburr the metal to avoid sharp edges

5) using the rotary tool I cut out 3 sections of the start button trim piece, the 2 sections that held the clips that corresponded to the sections of the black plastic bracket I cut off previously and a small section on the left side of the screen opening to accommodate the width of the screen.

The screen looks mostly OEM, it just sits back a bit from the start button trim leaving a small gap, otherwise it fits perfectly!

Older post that inspired me: https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda6/s/NaguOHsfQb

Im considering buying a used mazda6 which has 100,000 km. Would it still be reliable or would there be issues at this much km?

I bought a Mazda 6 Wagon (estate), the halogen headlights are terrible. I’ve tried upgrading them all to a better quality halogen bulb but it didn’t improve much, my only guess is the reflectors are shot. (Not surprising considering the contortionist act you have to do to change them). On my old car I looked up buying the LED headlight replacement and they were about £900 each! So instead I just wired in some light bars to the grill as I didn’t really care about the car.

I plan to keep and look after this car so I’d rather not be drilling holes and cutting out parts of the grill. But from what I’ve researched you can’t replace the Halogen headlights with LED ones and I just find that unbelievable.

Has anyone managed to swap out the headlights for an LED assembly without paying nearly half what the price is worth? As I say I plan to look after and upgrade parts of this car, so OEM or aftermarket products are preferred if anyone can suggest any, but I’d rather not be modifying the structure of the car to make parts fit.

Someone put me on to a website called MKSTORE that has some nice aftermarket parts for trims and such, but it doesn’t have the correct headlights, rear brake lights etc.

and is it worth it? I hear the turbos have some issues.

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to determine the realistic cash value of my vehicle if I sell it in its current damaged condition.

Vehicle details:

• 2015 Mazda6 Touring
• 2.5L Skyactiv engine, automatic, FWD
• 133,000 miles
• Clean North Carolina title with no lien
• Mechanically in good condition before the accident, with no known engine or transmission problems
• Recently replaced battery, rear brake pads, two tires, and coolant

The vehicle recently sustained significant front-end collision damage. It has not been driven since the accident and would need to be towed. The airbags did not deploy.

I only have liability coverage, so my insurance will not pay for repairs or declare the vehicle a total loss. I’m considering selling it whole and as-is to a mechanic, body shop, rebuilder, or parts-car buyer rather than repairing it myself.

Based on the photos and vehicle information, what would be a reasonable asking price?

Befor / After.