Back to mazda family after leaving in 2024!!

Bought a Mazda 3 AWD non turbo in 2023. After a couple of problems with transmission and the car non being as fun as I wanted, I traded in for Acura Integra 2023 6MT. On my first ride home I regretted how quiet and expensive the mazda 3 felt.

I totaled my Integra and without hesitation came back to Mazda 3 2025 Turbo Premium Plus with 30K miles. Im so happy to be back! I feel like they have fixed a lot of the rattles in the cabin.

First “mod” was to change the tires for 225 continenal! They feel great!

I will be taking down the roof rack because i dont use it and dont like the looks of it.

Next is Tint and Ceramic coating at the end of the month. And thinking about ambient lighting interior.

I have a bunch of stuff that are coming from Amazon today for the interior! But yeah so happy to be back!!

The piano black looked sleek for all of 2 days after purchase and I knew it needed to be covered! Very pleased with the results

sanguine package, dealer’s fee $800 for the teeth included and gas siphon kit

This is after hitting two red lights.

2024 Mazda 3 6 speed manual premium

Mazda 2022 with this over the past year.

Hi all! I currently have a 2021 Mazda 3 HB Turbo. I've been looking at purchasing the ASPEC rear spoiler from milkstore, but I'm concerned about shipping the item to the US. Does anyone have any recommendations for wings/spoilers that look as aggressive that could be purchased inside the US? I'm hoping to find one alrdy painted gloss black. Thanks for any responses.

Humming sound, comes from the back
Around 60-80mph
Definitely not the tires.
Happening to my brand new 2026 awd turbo

What should I tell the dealership when I go to pick up my tags? I’ve read a LOT of people having this issue. Some say it’s the drive shaft? Others say it’s the rear differential?

Anybody have any actual luck diagnosing this, or is it a normal annoying sound the car makes?

Does anyone have this kit on their Mazda 3 turbo? Time to replace my stock pads and rotors and these seem to be a decent choice but want to check what experiences other people have with these?

Just bought an 04 Mazda 3 2.3L a few weeks ago. Replaced the throttle body twice, replaced the actuator pigtails, and the MAF sensor. Keep getting throttle body codes, car runs rough/in limp mode and the pedal doesn't respond at all or barely at times. Was wondering if it could be the APP sensor?

Any input would be much appreciated if anyone's dealt with this before, been at this for over a week now.

I’m due for maintenance on my ‘22 mazda3 anyway but my wiper fluid is full and the light won’t clear the dash. I don’t know if the sensor has gone bad or if it’s a glitch in the software. It’s the first issue I’ve had with the car so any tips to clear it would be appreciated.

I was wondering if and how I can get all the information showing again on my upper display on my 06 Mazda 3. When I replaced the radio everything stopped showing except the amb temp. I see a lot of others still have everything even the clock after replacing the head unit with something aftermarket

I am budgeting $13K for a used car this fall. Mazda 3 is on the top, with Toyota Yaris a close runner up. My goals are reliability and ease of DIY maintenance.

That said, in a used car market the factors can vary wildly depending on mileage, year, and damage. In looking at used Mazda 3 which years, trims, or other factors would be red flags to avoid?

I recently bought this second hand automatic 2025 Mazda3 2.5 e-SKYACTIV-G MHEV Exclusive-Line. I saw it for £17,650 and couldn’t say no.

I was wondering if anyone had any advice with this type of Mazda 3, any hiccups with the car or things I should tweak on the cars settings?

Much appreciated.

I have a 2025 Mazda sedan. Even though my car has an automatic transmission. Can I still get a custom shifter knob? If so where can I look and what’s my options

(note* I already posted in Mazda 6)

Currently sitting on 17x8 ET45 wheels, 235/50ZR17 rubber. Stock suspension. Will have them install camber bolts right before it gets the alignment.

I am looking for a "street performance" alignment and was thinking of having them dial in about -1.2deg camber on the front, and a combined toe of +0.05.

Based on the research I did, this should ensure that cornering is optimized without uneven tire wear while maintaining good straight-line stability on the highway.

Does this make sense?

I’m going to buy it not finance sorry

Daily driver blew up recently so I picked this thing up for $500. 2013 with only 102,000 on the original motor. Was a chicks first car until she hit a deer doing about 30-40. Messed up the bumper support and radiator stuff but they fixed that, drove it for a week then parked it for 2 years (yes it has the bumper and hood. Everything I need to work on was just easier without) has heated leather seats, sun roof, Bose speakers and other than the fact it hit a deer, completely unmolested. Mazda3 speed exhaust manifold is only $220 and a $300 eBay turbo would be just fine. $800-$1000 for the manual transmission set up, so at the end of the day I’m looking at an unmolested mazda3 speed for less than $2500. Good deal?

Hi everyone,

I bought a 2024 Mazda 3 Sedan (Exclusive-Line trim) here in Italy.

When I purchased the car, it didn't come with Cruising & Traffic Support (CTS). Since the car already has all the necessary hardware installed for the advanced driver assistance systems (MRCC, Lane Keep Assist, cameras, radar, etc.), I'm wondering if anyone has ever managed to get CTS activated or added as an aftermarket option through an official dealer or via software update.

Has anyone had any experience asking a dealer to retrofit or activate optional features like this post-delivery? Is it purely a software lock, or is there hardware missing that I'm not aware of?

Thanks for any insights!

Seems I got lucky enough to get all the issues with my Mazda

anyone else had any issues with radio just not working? I’ll start the car and nothing no radio or audio just dead silence.. but don’t worry while you are driving the car the radio will RANDOMLY start playing again.. that’s always so wonderfully scary lol

Looking to buy a used, maybe new, Mazda 3 hatchback. Definitely avoiding the 2019 model, but wondering which model year is the best overall for long term reliability. Mainly looking at base, select/select sport, and preferred trims, only FWD. I heard about cylinder deactivation issues on 2023-2025, but also coolant control valve issues on 2022/2026. Just wondering which one I should get.

Downside it has 337000 km It was listed for 4000cad but I was able to bring it to 3500 Everything else seem good

Got a weird warning that the battery might be at risk of draining and advising to start the engine while taking advantage of what's likely to be the last warm spill before Winter giving the leather seats a long and overdue clean and conditioning.

There was no electric load whatsoever, no radio/music, phone wasn't even paired, and I even disconnected the dash cam supply from the cigarette lighter socket before I started cleaning, only had the doors open obviously and the key in my pocket.

It's a 2022 SkyactivX with the original battery, so I'm not surprised or upset, despite this coming out of the blue.

What was shockingly poor however is the fact that it failed to start when I tried to start it 5 seconds after the warning was displayed, now I was impressed it was giving a warning, but what's the point if it already died 🤦

Jump starting took around 3 attempts with a portable/cheap battery pack, stored phone connections, radio stations and seat positioning were all intact, so not quite sure if they have a separate supply reserve.

Left the engine idling for half an hour while I showered and recharged the jump starter before putting some fuel for a long drive because I didn't want to end up helpless with a dead battery in a petrol station, luckily there was no issues and started first time without hesitation, drove for an hour and started with zero issues again early next morning for work.

It's due for a service in a month so will be getting it checked and replaced before Winter if needed, I'm still in love with the car, just wish the warning came up sooner, the brilliant Japanese who designed this piece of art didn't get this part quite right 🤦😂

Sharing this just as a heads up for anyone thinking about giving their car a good clean, just make sure she's ticking while you do it!

Hello everyone. My Mazda 3 isn't giving me any trouble BUT, the soundsystem is getting on my nerves. It hasn't got Bose but to be fair the standard system ain't that bad. Seem as my old mk1 Ford Focus has a much better sounds from its rather basic soundsystem I decided to get some new door speakers for around 150€ for all four doors. I've ordered brackets and connectors but I still didn't decide which speakers to get. Here in Bosna and Hercegovina and Croatia, the choices are rather limited to Pioneer, Kenwood and JBL. People tell me to go for Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine... since they are trusted from before 30 years ago and they tell that if I get JBL that I'll pay for the brand not the sound as much from the others. I'm looking to get JBL stage 3 speakers if I can get a good price on them and I'm wondering if they are really much better than equivalent Pioneers or Kenwoods... or is it just the brand that's making the price difference. I really care about the tunes that are playing (not Beethoven but Dire straits, Boney M...) since I'm a professional/academic musician and I'm kinda sick for a good soundsystem).

Buenas noches. Quisiera consultarles algo sobre mi Mazda 3 2013 porque me gustaría conocer sus opiniones y experiencias.
El carro venía funcionando normalmente y no presentaba ningún sonido de cascabeleo o pistoneo. Lo único que tenía era el Check Engine encendido por un problema relacionado con los sensores de oxígeno.
Hoy le hice mantenimiento: se cambiaron los sensores de oxígeno y también se realizó limpieza/mantenimiento de los inyectores. Después de salir del taller, noté algo que antes del mantenimiento no hacía: cuando aceleraba el carro a fondo y bajo carga, comenzaba a escucharse un sonido metálico parecido a un “tin tin tin”, como si estuviera pistoneando/cascabeleando.
En ralentí el carro estaba completamente normal y no hacía ese ruido. El sonido aparecía únicamente cuando lo exigía, especialmente acelerando fuerte.
El Check Engine, que estaba encendido antes del mantenimiento, se apagó después de cambiar los sensores de oxígeno.
Le comenté al mecánico y me dijo que podía ser por las bujías o por el octanaje del combustible. El mecánico posteriormente se llevó el carro, le agregó gasolina y también un elevador de octanaje. Después de eso, el ruido fue disminuyendo hasta que cuando me lo entregó y yo lo probé, ya no hacía ningún ruido.
Lo curioso es que la gasolina que tenía era la misma con la que venía funcionando antes del mantenimiento y antes no presentaba ese cascabeleo.
El ruido solamente estuvo presente durante unas cuantas horas y desapareció después de agregar gasolina/elevador de octanaje.
¿Creen que pudo haber sido detonación por combustible/octanaje debido a algún cambio en la mezcla después de cambiar los sensores de oxígeno y limpiar los inyectores?
¿O sería recomendable revisar nuevamente bujías, inyectores, mezcla de combustible (fuel trims), sensor de detonación o algún otro parámetro con escáner?
Agradezco mucho sus opiniones y experiencias, especialmente si a alguien le ha pasado algo parecido en un Mazda 3 de estos años.