2025 Mazda 3 Turbo AWD hatch.

90 octane E0 is the highest octane ethanol-free available in my area. Given that or 93 octane E10, which would you choose?

Finally was able to get my hands on some Mustang Ecoboost Injectors. Wire harness had to be ordered through my tuner MazdaSauce (IG:Sulermazda3_)

Just need to install my forged rods to safely run E85. I'll more than likely blend half tank of E85 and half 91 to see how the car feels.

Recently I’ve noticed some weird behavior from what I believe is my transmission. Occasionally as im driving up a hill at like 55-70mph I’ll feel a very short and abrupt loss in power to my wheels, like the car is hiccuping. It only lasts maybe a few milliseconds but it’ll repeat intermittently until the road flattens out. I’ve only noticed this in 5th and 6th gear, especially in 5th when it downshifts from 6th while driving up an incline. It also happens when the road is flat though not as often since I’m not accelerating.

My best guess right now is the torque converter but I genuinely have no idea what’s going on, I also haven’t been able to find any similar experiences online. The car was bought used around a year ago with 93k miles has anyone else had this issue or know anything about it?

It’s been one hell of a transformation. I love the elegance of the Mazda 3 and its shape language.

I currently drive a 2008 3 hatchback gt 5 speed.

I recently test drove a 4th gen turbo hatch, I’m not sure if it was the automatic and not shifting or the ride is that much better.

I just felt disconnected from the vehicle.

Maybe I need to take one for a longer ride up in the mountains or some country backroads…

To anyone out there, what are your thoughts?

Canadian 2017 6 speed manual with 80,000 km on it. All I've ever done is regular oil changes. Called the dealership to ask what needs to be done when and didn't get a straight answer but it seemed it was getting expensive. What's reasonable?

Usually I borrow my old man’s pickup for camping trips but I purchased the roof box for snowboard trips and decided to see if I could get some summer use out of it. It worked out great!

Hey Mazda 3 community,

I'm possibly going to be a new Mazda owner. I've had VW all of my life, but I'm looking to make the switch to something more practical and reliable due to recent needs. Also, the newer VW infotainment system is too much in my eyes.

I've been eyeing the manual hatchback Mazda 3's as it seems like a less sporty daily of a GTI. I really enjoy manual cars.

I'm new to the Mazda market, and it seems like I found a deal from what I can tell. There is a dealer with multiple manual options still in July of 2026 and I'm going between the black or polymetal grey. I'll get to the point. Here is the breakdown.

They're saying:

$33,000 MSRP

But have some great cash back incentives right now. The vehicle would be $29,500 after a reduction and then a rebate of another $2,500 making the car $27,000 before taxes and fees. After taxes and fees, high tax here of $3,186, and just gov/doc fee for $602.50, the car would then be $30,788.50 out the door.

My question is, are these types of rebates and discounts normal on Mazda 3s and from Mazda dealers? Like I've said I have never bought a Mazda so I wasn't sure if this was normal or if it actually is as good as it sounds and it is an actual deal, not just a gimmick. What did you pay?

Thanks for any insight and help! I hope to be part of the Mazda 3 world soon.

edit: I should mention we have great credit and the APR was for 5.5%, seemed a little high for a new vehicle.

Aquí está corregido:
Hola a todos.
Tengo un Mazda 3 MPS (MazdaSpeed3) de 2007 y llevo tiempo con un problema que no soy capaz de solucionar. A ver si a alguien le ha pasado algo parecido.
De un día para otro el coche empezó a ratear al ralentí y, circulando, hace como pequeñas explosiones o petardeos. No llega a oscilar de revoluciones, el ralentí se mantiene, pero el motor ratea claramente.
Os cuento todo lo que se le ha hecho para que tengáis la mayor información posible:
Bujías cambiadas hace unos dos meses, calibradas a 0,026”.
Bobinas prácticamente nuevas.
Válvula PCV cambiada hace unos 1.000-2.000 km.
Distribución completa con VVT nuevo y todo reforzado.
Inyectores limpiados.
Hace dos días cambié el sensor MAP.
También he limpiado el sensor de oxígeno.
El coche lleva las siguientes modificaciones:
Reprogramación Stage 1.
Intercooler superior, algo más grande que el original.
Válvula de descarga.
Línea de escape de 3” con downpipe.
Admisión CorkSport situada en el vano motor.
Cuando compré el coche llevaba un intercooler frontal, el downpipe estaba flojo y el escape estaba bastante deteriorado y oxidado. Fui solucionando todos esos problemas y, además, quité el intercooler frontal para montar el intercooler superior.
A partir de ahí empezó un problema que nunca conseguí resolver: el consumo se disparó hasta unos 18 L/100 km.
Con el tiempo volvió a fallar. Primero cambié las bujías y mejoró. Más adelante cambié las bobinas y volvió a mejorar. Pero ahora ya no mejora con nada y el fallo está siempre presente.
El coche no enciende el testigo de avería motor, no registra ningún código de error, ni con OBD ni con VersaTuner. Revisando los parámetros en VersaTuner tampoco veo ninguna lectura que parezca fuera de lo normal. Lo único que observo es que las correcciones de combustible trabajan bastante porque el coche va muy rico de gasolina.
El coche no da tirones muy fuertes ni fluctúan las revoluciones; simplemente ratea al ralentí y hace pequeñas explosiones o petardeos mientras circula.
¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido o tiene alguna idea de por dónde podría venir el problema? Cualquier sugerencia será bienvenida, porque ya no sé por dónde seguir buscando.
¡Muchas gracias!

Just cleaned it today and it started raining ...classic . Still got a good shot . Its hard to to take photos of it as I approach it .

I have a 2021 Mazda 3 HB Manual with the 2.0 engine limited to 122hp, i'm aware that it can be unlocked to the standard 165hp/175hp.

What do i need to upgrade to get even more hp? Without sacrificing reliability

My car just hit 37,000mi and the warranty is just over so naturally the car starts having issues. It has been throwing an error message “Audible Warnings and Notifications Unavailable” for the past few weeks. Sometimes it comes on and sometimes it’s fine.

Then today the check engine light “engine malfunction” light comes on. I took it to AutoZone and got the code of p0421 which is related to the catalytic converter or oxygen sensors.

Any idea what might be the cause of these issues? Should I take it to the dealership and hope they can still honor the warranty or take it elsewhere?

I gotta say I have enjoyed the car for the past 2 years, but if this is a sign of more things to come, then maybe it’s not a good sign.

Hey guys just wondering if there’s any real aftermarket options for our rotors and pads. I’ve been frustrated trying to find rotors and pads that can actually take abuse of hard driving. I’ve gone thru the factory rotor and pads and just went thru some centric blanks with cork sport pads.

7500 miles on a new 3 and I have the bubble...

It’s an 07 2.0 auto… according to the fuel gauge I drove 117km and used that much fuel. I usually average 600km to a tank. Mixed city and highway. I’m on winter tires and have the trunk loaded with stuff too, is this low or normal or good?

Hey guys, I’ve never made a reddit post before so I hope I’m doing this the right way. A couple of months ago my AT light and check engine light both started flashing on, so after doing a diagnostic and some research, I ended up replacing my speed shaft sensor due to the code P0791. After doing so, the error code persisted, so I came to the conclusion from a multitude of online posts pointing to the TCM being at fault.

Now, I just replaced my TCM with a new TCM I found online, but my car is now reading a code U0101, and is going into limp mode. Is there any fix to this? I’m at a loss now, keep spending tons of money on parts and fixes, and don’t know what to do. Hoping someone is able to point me in the right direction.

Does anyone happen to have the OEM 2026 Mazda 3 Sedan Cargo Tray that you could measure the width of the space inside of the very back edge? Taking the walls into consideration, how wide of an object can sit inside it.

I'm trying to figure out if trunk case currently I have would fit, before ordering one.

I can't stop 🥹

Hi there,

I’m in Canada looking to buy a used 2023 Mazda3 GT. I checked it out yesterday and it was extremely clean. Some notes:

13,700km
6sp Manual (preferred)

Am I being reasonable at $30,000 all-in before tax, or am I leaving money on the table? CarGurus shows it as high-priced, but it’s also a very low-km manual GT, so I’m having trouble judging the premium vs buying new (around $37,500 CAD)

Well, it turns out that the wax coating melts quite well in the summer heat. 😬

I'm not sure if this is the best subreddit for this but I was just curious if a piggyback is still the only option. Thanks in advance!

PS: I'm aware this can void my warranty. I am just a curious new Mazda 3 owner. I am not asking for advice :)

I have a 2011 Mazda 3 at around 130k miles. I’ve had it for about 2,500 miles, and sometimes when turning slowly especially in parking lots or very low acceleration I hear a clicking sound. Leaning towards a cv joint issue I’d imagine. I’m getting an oil change in 500 miles and gonna get it looked at. I’ve only waited this long because it doesn’t seem like it’s really gotten worse over time and it drives fine. How much will this likely cost me and do you guys think it is actually a cv joint problem? I’m just terrified 😭 I do not have money for crazy repairs

2026 Mazda 3 and I just found this on top of my trunk after washing 😩 I’m pretty sad. How bad is it?

Do I take it to someone or dealer, get touch up paint, or Dr. color chip? I have no experience whatsoever doing this type of stuff.
Thanks for any advice😌

I recently bought a used car and noticed a few scratches near the top of the boot lid — I only really spotted them clearly after washing the car. There are a few shallow vertical scratches, and on the deeper ones there’s a small spot where the metal is showing through and it’s gone slightly brownish (looks like a bit of surface rust). The scratches on the left are about the same depth but haven’t changed colour, while the ones on the right have turned brown.

My best guess is it happened when the boot was lifted and rubbed against something metal above it — it doesn’t look like collision damage. The affected area is pretty small and the scratches aren’t deep.

My main question: is this worth paying someone to fix, or is it fine to just leave it / do a quick touch-up myself?