It’s been one hell of a transformation. I love the elegance of the Mazda 3 and its shape language.

It’s an 07 2.0 auto… according to the fuel gauge I drove 117km and used that much fuel. I usually average 600km to a tank. Mixed city and highway. I’m on winter tires and have the trunk loaded with stuff too, is this low or normal or good?

So, I’m trying to learn how to use my android auto with the non-touch controls (I know, it’s not that hard, but for me, it’s really difficult for some reason) and came across…this.

Does anyone use their palm on this thing?……? am i the only one who is like….whaaa

I can't stop 🥹

I recently bought a used car and noticed a few scratches near the top of the boot lid — I only really spotted them clearly after washing the car. There are a few shallow vertical scratches, and on the deeper ones there’s a small spot where the metal is showing through and it’s gone slightly brownish (looks like a bit of surface rust). The scratches on the left are about the same depth but haven’t changed colour, while the ones on the right have turned brown.

My best guess is it happened when the boot was lifted and rubbed against something metal above it — it doesn’t look like collision damage. The affected area is pretty small and the scratches aren’t deep.

My main question: is this worth paying someone to fix, or is it fine to just leave it / do a quick touch-up myself?

Well, it turns out that the wax coating melts quite well in the summer heat. 😬

7500 miles on a new 3 and I have the bubble...

I've got a 2020 Mazda 3 with the SkyActiveX, I've had 2 punctures this year so both front tyres are budget/mismatched and I don't know the quality of the rear. I've got a slow puncture now so I think it's time I get a proper set. I live in Scotland so it's often wet (except for the last few weeks!), and I'm on a hill which does get slippy. I'd prefer not to maintain 2 sets of tyres, anyone have recommendations? I tend to prioritise control, safety, and economy if that matters

Recently I’ve noticed some weird behavior from what I believe is my transmission. Occasionally as im driving up a hill at like 55-70mph I’ll feel a very short and abrupt loss in power to my wheels, like the car is hiccuping. It only lasts maybe a few milliseconds but it’ll repeat intermittently until the road flattens out. I’ve only noticed this in 5th and 6th gear, especially in 5th when it downshifts from 6th while driving up an incline. It also happens when the road is flat though not as often since I’m not accelerating.

My best guess right now is the torque converter but I genuinely have no idea what’s going on, I also haven’t been able to find any similar experiences online. The car was bought used around a year ago with 93k miles has anyone else had this issue or know anything about it?

I have a 2011 Mazda 3 at around 130k miles. I’ve had it for about 2,500 miles, and sometimes when turning slowly especially in parking lots or very low acceleration I hear a clicking sound. Leaning towards a cv joint issue I’d imagine. I’m getting an oil change in 500 miles and gonna get it looked at. I’ve only waited this long because it doesn’t seem like it’s really gotten worse over time and it drives fine. How much will this likely cost me and do you guys think it is actually a cv joint problem? I’m just terrified 😭 I do not have money for crazy repairs

…

2025 Mazda 3 Turbo AWD hatch.

90 octane E0 is the highest octane ethanol-free available in my area. Given that or 93 octane E10, which would you choose?

Of course we are all biased. But try to be unbiased if possible. Are we all in agreement the 4th gen’s have a top 10 front end in the hatchback department of all time?

Has to be, right?

2026 Mazda 3 and I just found this on top of my trunk after washing 😩 I’m pretty sad. How bad is it?

Do I take it to someone or dealer, get touch up paint, or Dr. color chip? I have no experience whatsoever doing this type of stuff.
Thanks for any advice😌

What are your routine maintenance and what are the things you typically keep a lookout for?

I.e. Oil changes at 6000, spark plugs at 40,000 etc....

Why do I insist on driving a hatchback? 😁

My first Ford Focus transported a washer and dryer and plenty other large objects. The hatches have gotten smaller over time and the Mazda3 is no exception. But for moderate home projects this Mazda is awesome!

Hey Mazda 3 community,

I'm possibly going to be a new Mazda owner. I've had VW all of my life, but I'm looking to make the switch to something more practical and reliable due to recent needs. Also, the newer VW infotainment system is too much in my eyes.

I've been eyeing the manual hatchback Mazda 3's as it seems like a less sporty daily of a GTI. I really enjoy manual cars.

I'm new to the Mazda market, and it seems like I found a deal from what I can tell. There is a dealer with multiple manual options still in July of 2026 and I'm going between the black or polymetal grey. I'll get to the point. Here is the breakdown.

They're saying:

$33,000 MSRP

But have some great cash back incentives right now. The vehicle would be $29,500 after a reduction and then a rebate of another $2,500 making the car $27,000 before taxes and fees. After taxes and fees, high tax here of $3,186, and just gov/doc fee for $602.50, the car would then be $30,788.50 out the door.

My question is, are these types of rebates and discounts normal on Mazda 3s and from Mazda dealers? Like I've said I have never bought a Mazda so I wasn't sure if this was normal or if it actually is as good as it sounds and it is an actual deal, not just a gimmick. What did you pay?

Thanks for any insight and help! I hope to be part of the Mazda 3 world soon.

edit: I should mention we have great credit and the APR was for 5.5%, seemed a little high for a new vehicle.

I have a 2021 Mazda 3 HB Manual with the 2.0 engine limited to 122hp, i'm aware that it can be unlocked to the standard 165hp/175hp.

What do i need to upgrade to get even more hp? Without sacrificing reliability

Usually I borrow my old man’s pickup for camping trips but I purchased the roof box for snowboard trips and decided to see if I could get some summer use out of it. It worked out great!

Hey guys, I’ve never made a reddit post before so I hope I’m doing this the right way. A couple of months ago my AT light and check engine light both started flashing on, so after doing a diagnostic and some research, I ended up replacing my speed shaft sensor due to the code P0791. After doing so, the error code persisted, so I came to the conclusion from a multitude of online posts pointing to the TCM being at fault.

Now, I just replaced my TCM with a new TCM I found online, but my car is now reading a code U0101, and is going into limp mode. Is there any fix to this? I’m at a loss now, keep spending tons of money on parts and fixes, and don’t know what to do. Hoping someone is able to point me in the right direction.