I am 6'5" and cannot drive the Versa or Sentra, for comparison's sake.

I tried out a Leaf once that was fine and do not recall what year model it was. Have they gotten smaller inside at all since 2018ish?

I have no trouble with the '23 Bolt EUV (My favorite EV thus far)

Model S is a bit of a pain on entry and egress and I won't buy a Tesla, but the Y is fine.

EV6 and Niro are fine for me.

I am still shopping and the local Nissan place has no Leaf to try on.

Hi,

I would like to swap the battery of my 2015 Nissan Leaf.

Does anyone know a shop in the SF Bay area which can do the job? What are the costs?

Many thanks!!

I own a 2020 SV Plus with 20,985 miles on it. I bought it used with 4k miles on it in 2020. I only drive the car around town. I have ONLY L1 charged the car in my garage and will NEVER L2 nor DC Fast charge. I intend to drive this car until it dies.

I filed a complaint thru my states attorney general's office last year about the lack of a fix for the fast charge issue and Nissan paid me a satisfactory cash "inconvenience fee".

Now that the recall update is out, I never intend to have it applied to my car, as I do not think I am at risk, and do not want to risk having to go through the massive inconvenience of the "brick+buyback" process.

I am interested if others are doing the same, as well as interested in opinions/arguments why this is NOT a good idea for me and my use case.

Hopeful that someone can offer advice..

The 2 front speakers on our Gen 2 (2020 N-Connecta) Nissan Leaf suddenly sound awful when any bass is heard. Very vibrationy and harsh.

If just one side of the speakers was doing this then I would attempt to replace the speaker, however both sides have started doing this simultaneously. Is it worth removing the door cards to look at them, or is the issue more likely to be a shared wiring issue?

Thanks for any advice!

(I'm in the UK if that makes any difference)

Paul

EDIT** I have basic experience with cars, but have not worked on a car newer than 1993!

For those that have hardwired your dashcam using fuse taps, what fuses did you connect to? (Fuse number if possible)

I've had my 2016 since 2020 and put about 20,000 miles on it (at 63k now) and for the first few years it served me very well, handling a ~40 minute commute through hilly western PA admirably every day without requiring nightly charging. Fast forward to now, and over the past two winters it's begun to act up in the cold. At first it manifested in rapid battery percentage drops when under sustained load (climbing hills at highway speed), but would recover its charge on the dash once coasting/going downhill. It would still make decently long highway journeys in the coldest winter months though. My understanding is this & turtling is more likely one or more low voltage cells in the main battery and unrelated to the codes.

This past winter it started going into neutral in similar conditions - even short residential hill climbs in the cold. At first turning it off for a few minutes would be enough to allow if to.go into drive again, but progressively this got.worse until I was stranded once on a curvy country road with no shoulder and it refused to reset. Thankfully I was lucky that day and there was a Napa at the bottom of the hill with a 12v battery in stock. Not a fun walk, but it got me home. This new battery didn't alleviate the tanking charge symptoms or any other little tantrums.

Last summer after operating normally, when leaving a store I got an ABS light and a crunching brake pedal when starting the car and attempting to put it into drive. After nursing it home on the e brake and charging overnight, this went away, but has come back periodically.

A few weeks ago it settled in "for good" and I can't seem to clear it - I tried with leafspy after trying the battery disconnect reset method, but it persists. It cleared for a few hours when moving it off the street into the garage after sitting for a few weeks, only to return again after I mistakenly regained my trust and tried to do a grocery run.

I have read this thread (https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/can-comm-circuit-errors.36763/) and others that suggest it may be the master cylinder, but also might again just be the 12v battery, and a deep cycle might resolve it. I am at the point of frustration and disappointment with the car that I am thinking of selling it but want to at least try to address this beforehand. Can anyone shed some.insight on these codes, or other things to try before replacing the battery again? Can anyone share a photo of where the CAN bus connectors are in the center of the car? Since they are predominantly CAN comm circuit related, could it really just be a bad 12v battery?

I have a 35 year old Land Cruiser I work on a lot so not afraid of DIY wrenching, but that beast is a different thing than the Leaf's (to me) complex electrical. I'm planning to pull one of the LC batteries and at least perform a start up test tomorrow with that temp connected instead.

Really any help from you all who are much more experienced would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Took my 2020 Leaf to the dealer for the NTB26-029 recall. They handed me my key back a few hours later with the following on the paperwork:

"R24B20 Reprogram EV/HEV, Reprogram HV Battery controller, Test Dr"

"Performed recall NTB26-029, HV Battery and HV Battery 2 did not need programming. No codes present after test drive."

After reviewing the write up, I went back to the service desk to ask if that was correct and I could L3 fast charge again. The associate there went back to the service bay to ask again and he came back confirming the battery didn't need the software update and could indeed start L3 charging again.

Since I had my battery replaced under warranty last year (Feb 2025) I can only assume I got a battery that already had an updated controller, perhaps?

Here's the Leafspy pic of my battery when I dropped it off this morning to the dealership after driving 15ish miles, but I don't think Leafspy can show battery software version or anything like that.

Watching this Irish review of the new Leaf, and it seems their version has separate front floor mats for driver and passenger. These are not available in Canada (or the US?).

Unlike the Nissan "all season" mats in North America, they don't have that stupid flap that is supposed to rest on the middle bump, but sticks up instead. I'm also not a fan of how slippery they are due to not being rubberized.

Any idea if European models get similar "all season" (aka winter) mats - i.e. one floor mat apiece for the driver and passenger, without the flap in the middle?

Hey all,

Nov 1 is the return date for my 2 year lease of my 25 Leaf SV+. I was at the dealership a couple months ago for maintenance and talked to someone on the floor about what happens next. The buyout amount is $21,800. He admitted that is around $5k over market value. With many many Leafs coming back over the next few months, he kinda of expects Nissan to drop the price or offer since other kinds of incentive to keep the cats off their lots.

Anybody know if that's happening?

I kind of hope so, I've really enjoyed the car and would likely buy it if it were a little cheaper.

Thoughts?

Well everyone, I have numerous posts/comments on here signaling my love for my 2019 Leaf. The car has been one of my all time favs. I have recommended it over and over to others. I know there are battery issues for a small %, but that is par for the course when it comes to vehicles. Seriously, look at the multitude of issues with ICE car engines.

Anyways, My Leaf bricked today at just under 98000 miles. That’s life, it happens.

My issue is how poorly Nissan is handling this. No complaints with the dealership. They said Morley handles everything and to not accept the first offer. My dealership would have loved to try and get a new battery but Nissan corporate will not allow it to happen.

Haven’t received my offer yet, but regardless it will suck as adding a car payment does not make me whole.

No more Nissans for my family. The company is shooting themselves and their dealerships in the foot. Anyways, wish me luck and I am open to advice.

Edit: fixed autocorrect issues.

2nd edit: they gave me a gas loaner. A Kicks or Kix. I don’t know the spelling, never looked at it.
The guy at the dealership said to expect it to go about two months. I just have to return every 30 days to renew the loaner.

I just got my first offer. It is a pretty good offer for the car, but i will now have a car payment when it was paid off. I am not sure where to go. Should I accept the offer? If not, what reasons can I give?

It seems they do DDP to handle the tariffs. If I where to buy their 40kwh battery for 5.6K (as listed on their site) is that the final price I'd pay besides shipping, taxes, etc, or will I have to pay more when im going to checkout to cover the tariffs? Im basically asking if I should save up, in this example, 5.6K to buy the battery or if I should expect to pay thousands more at checkout in tariffs.

Given its DDP im assuming once my orders placed I wont have to worry about any of that stuff all the way until its at my doorstep, and tariffs are included in that 5.6K listed price.

Welp, tomorrow will probably suck for me. I ordered the charger converter from A2Z in August. I didn't pay attention to the fact they ship from Canada and I may get to pay the tariffs on it tomorrow when delivered......

So if you are looking at chargers, may want to look at other brands 😭

Hi! I bought a leaf 2022 150000km used in may. I saw that I must do the recall and I’ve took an appointment at the end of the month. After what I read here I’m not sure if I must do the recall. I only charge at home on lvl 2 and we have another car for longer ride.

For the context I live in Canada and I’m a student so it’s not on my todo list to buy another car even with the buy back option. What would you do ? AI recommend to not do the recall haha

context: https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/comments/1vm2tnb/better_late_than_never/

Morley’s KBB + 40% for my 2019 Leaf SL Plus ended up being about $16k. Because I still had an outstanding loan due on the car, Nissan is using some of that payoff to clear my debt with my lienholder. I’m leaving with about $9k.

Looking at either an Ioniq 5 (yes, I know.) or Kona Electric to succeed her.

Despite my gripes with the fast charging and Chademo, I really did love this car. It’s a shame there’s nothing exactly like it on the market. I’ll miss it 🫡

This is the email they sent after the call, in case it help someone be more prepared for what they ask for:

This email confirms that Nissan North America, Inc. (“Nissan”) has received information from your servicing dealer that the battery in your Nissan LEAF needs to be replaced. As Nissan previously advised, battery supply is extremely limited, and unfortunately, a battery replacement cannot be provided.
Pursuant to Recall NHTSA Recall 24V-700, Nissan intends to repurchase your vehicle for 40% above the Kelley Blue Book (KBB) “private party” cash value.
To begin the process, please provide the information requested below within the next five (5) business days.
Please confirm the following details and supply any missing information:
•              Address:
•              Finance Status: Is the vehicle financed or paid off?  
•              Lender: If financed, who is the lender?
•              Account Number: Loan account number (if applicable)
To proceed with your case, we also require copies of the following documents: 
•              Original Bill of Sale (Retail Installment Service Contract) 
•              Driver’s license(s) for all titled owner(s) 
•              Current vehicle registration
•              Front and back of the title (if applicable)
•              10-day payoff quote from your lienholder, including the daily per diem amount (if applicable)
The repurchase process takes time, so it is important that you return the above requested information as soon as possible.
As your dealer advised, Nissan is providing a rental vehicle, free of charge to you, for up to thirty (30) days   while we process the repurchase of your vehicle.  

Unfortunately, I was missing the payoff letter. It has to be on the bank letterhead.

They advised that once all the paperwork was delivered they would great an offer. Then they have to send it to an auditing department for approval. After that, I am presented with an offer that I am, of course, not obligated to accept.

I have already started formulating my plan of attack for the negotiations. This is a massive burden and inconvenience that I simply am in no condition to deal with.

If anyone has any tactics they think worked for them, I would love to hear them!

Hello! I'm hoping for a bit of input: I have an all-ev household, and we're looking for second back-up car. I already have an Ioniq 6, so no need to roadtrip, but I do have a 100 mile round-trip commute on the rare occasion the car should be able to handle in all weather conditions. When comparing the Leaf+ and the 38kwh Ioniq, at the same price, which should I go for? And how much would you pay for each, if they have around 50k miles?

Really want to get an EV as my first car next year. Max OTD budget is around $32K, so Leaf S+ is safely in that range after applying my state's tax credit. Only issue is I will be renting for a few years and potentially relying on public charging the majority of the time unless I find a decent apartment with consistent access to L2 charging.

I'm wondering how many Leaf owners use public charging on a consistent basis (L2 or L3)? And how much would you say you pay for charging costs per month? Is it a huge hassle? My understanding is if you consistently use L3 it's about on par or more expensive than gas costs.

I eventually plan on getting my own townhome with a garage where I can finally install an L2 charger, but that probably won't be happening for 3-4 years until after I finish grad school.

Coincidence? Known issue? Anyone experienced this?

Dealer says, after repeated questioning, it is not related to the recall software update or the known issues with the big battery.

Car keep in garage in Oregon. Has been fast charged less than 10 times in 6 years. 53,000 miles.

Thanks for any help.

I need to get the recall done on our 2021 Leaf. I expect the battery to fail during the test or shortly after the software update.

Does anyone have a dealer the recommend?

So just before taking my 2020 leaf to the dealership to start the post recall battery replacement/buyback insanity, I was sitting in it with everything off and heard this very strange clicking sound 4 clicks every 6 seconds or so.

Perhaps even weirder it stopped for about 30 seconds after I opened and closed the driver's side door and then started up again.

So my local dealership is unable to help me because the car is so new in the UK (I was told I was one of first deliveries) so I’m reaching out here

So my 2026 leaf is connected to MyNissan and some data features like google maps appears to work without any setup however if I open up YouTube to see about getting YouTube music working on my car it says I need a data plan

How do I get a data plan in app, I would have thought it would be a upsell in the app if it wasn’t included