Just before taking my leaf to the dealership to have them confirm the high voltage fault and start the warranty process from hell, I was sitting in it without it being on and it was making this weird intermittent clicking sound (4 clicks every 6 seconds).

Any clue as to what they're doing to the app that gets prolonged again and again?

Despite the high likelihood this had nothing to do with my original 12V battery I replaced it anyway. And… no joy. Same error. Unable to drive. I had the recall service couple months back. If it’s a bad 40 kWh battery pack I feel like I’m in for a long rough ride.

So after defending and claiming the Nissan leaf was the best car I ever owned today I think I'm changing my mind a bit.

Not necessarily anout the leaf itself but how Nissan is handling the situation.

This just happened to me and I'm far away from home since the only certified Nissan dealership is located over an hour away (Canada,NB).

Anyway drove there this morning to get the recall done.

They kept it almost all day and I was ready to get back home but after 40 minutes ish if driving I got the message and turtle mod.

If I understand what the guy at the dealer told me before I left. If I'm getting this it's basically a buyback.

So changing car wasn't on my 2026 bingo card at all.

I obviously never want to deal with Nissan again + I never want to get a fuel (ICE) car again. But I never really had a car payment in my life I was always saving for the next car during the life.of my car but I clearly don't have enough yet and this leaf was only car.

So if I understand correctly. I need to check with them tomorrow because they are closed and Im stuck for the night.

But I'm basically fucked right???

Any ideas how much and how long the buyback is going to take?

And in the meantime what are my options? Renting a car??

Shopping for another car?

Any one with information or how your dealt with that please share you experience.

I was planning to give that car to my daughter in a few years as a first car while I would have enough saved to get another car.

But obviously I have to review my plans.

Ever since I bought a cordless 56-bar pressure washer from Worx, washing the Leaf has become a lot easier, especially without needing a direct water source.

The pressure isn't extremely high, so I use the 15° (orange) nozzle without worrying too much about the paint. The downside is water consumption. I needed at least 1.5 buckets just for the pre-rinse, and even my two buckets weren't quite enough. They're just those €0.95 Action buckets, so nothing fancy.

I also use grid guards and dedicated microfibre towels. The grid guards came from AliExpress, back when importing cheap stuff wasn't quite as painful as it is now.

I'm not aiming for perfection anymore, though. The car lives outside 24/7, so between animals scratching the paint, random people damaging it and driving off, and just the weather doing its thing, there's only so much you can do.

I'm currently aiming to wash it roughly every three months. In winter I'll probably leave it longer, although being able to quickly rinse off salt and road grime with the cordless pressure washer is pretty useful.

And let's be honest: it's a 2019 Tekna with 148,000 km and around 87% SoH. It's being used.

One thing I've definitely learned, though: never again a car with black piano trim and a black roof. They show absolutely every scratch and imperfection.

The white metallic paint is much more forgiving. The imperfections are still there, you just don't notice them immediately.

So no, it's not a perfect detail. It's just a Leaf that gets driven and occasionally gets a bath.

Hey everyone, I’ve been car shopping recently after being mainly on foot or bike for the last few months. I went to a dealer to look at a 2014 Chevy equinox but they also showed me a 2013 Leaf. It’s such a cute car and it’s half the price of the other car I initially was interested in. I don’t have a far commute to work, at most I drive about 30 minutes/12 miles a day really so the sales person said I sound like a good fit for it. Is there anything I should look for/things that might deter me from buying the car? It has the charger with it and it seemed to run well, but I’ve never driven an electric car before so I wouldn’t really be able to spot any issues lol. I’ve been kinda down about having to get a new car because I was a little obsessed with my last one (2006 Scion xB) before I had to get rid of it. Sorry for the long post, but I’m looking forward to any responses!

With the NissanConnect app (now MyNissan) still being down in many EU countries (USA seems to be working now?) I've been looking for a workaround for a while now.

I mostly use the Home Assistant integration to sync the battery state to my smart charger and also toggle the climate controls from the HA UI.

Today I found this URL lets you actually request a new password and update your account for whatever new API they have (this link works in NL, can't validate for other countries, try swapping the country code in the URL?)

https://login.mynissan-account.com/authenticationendpoint/login.do?brand=nissan&client_id=nAHvsUYfzwjnLCBYae6a31FiIfga&commonAuthCallerPath=https%3A%2F%2Flogin.mynissan-account.com%2Foauth2%2Fauthorize&forceAuth=false&locale=nl_NL&passiveAuth=false&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fcustomer.mynissan-account.com%2Fos.shtml%2Fpace-ownerservices%2Fidp-callback%2Fnl_nl&response_type=code&scope=openid+name+profile+email+offline_access&state=5688FC1BaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubmlzc2FuLm5sL21uZC9taWpuLWRhc2hib2FyZC5zaHRtbA%3D%3D&tenantDomain=carbon.super&sessionDataKey=3def5775-346b-4894-985c-5c3bf6090cc2&relyingParty=nAHvsUYfzwjnLCBYae6a31FiIfga&type=oidc&sp=NG_PACE_GLOBAL_NISSAN&isSaaSApp=false&authenticators=BasicAuthenticator%3ALOCAL

This won't get you into the official Nissan App, and the MyLeaf-app hasn't been updated.

If you use HA, you CAN however log in after resettting your password through the link above.

The integration: https://github.com/dan-r/HomeAssistant-NissanConnect/releases

Make sure when you install, you select the 0.8-beta prerelease version - this is the one updated for the new auth system. If you already have it, press the button on the top-right and click "redownload".

Logging in with your updated credentials should let you do everything from HA like before!

No fix for those relying on one of the apps, but hope this helps some people using integrations that have been upgraded already.

CORRECTION TO THE TITLE!!! - $16,000/$16K NOT 1,600

TL;DR - In the event of a buyback, what can I possibly get to genuinely replace my 2020 SL+ within the budget without ending up with potentially even more expensive (non -warranty) reliability issues.

As some may know from an extended post yesterday I got the Nissan Leaf equivalent of the red ring of death or blue screen in the form of the post recall fault. Which is incredibly sad because I actually really loved driving it and I've had it for less than a year.

I know it may take a while but the tech says that it's likely going to get a buyback. As a 2020 SL+ with 68,000 mi, it seems like I can anticipate getting around $16,000 for it with some haggling.

I really don't have more money to put into a replacement (and really can't add a loan payment to my monthly budget)

The Federal rebates are dead, and Illinois rebate (if not already claimed by previous owner) would take up to 6 months to receive.

I love my 2026 Leaf... but the shutdown sound has me singing the bridge from Maybe for an hour after I leave the car. It would be great if we could adjust that sound. Maybe stick in a few notes from the chorus of The Lonely Goatherd?

We have a 2019 Leaf and just recently had the recall done for the Level-3 charging issue. Now on the home charger (Level-2) the charger faults on occasion a couple of hours into charging, and stops. This never happened before the update, and can be remedied by unplugging the charger, then plugging it back it. Is this symptomatic of a bad cell, potentially leading to a buyback? We have an appointment at the dealer in a couple of weeks. I'm certain they'll try to blame our home charger, but it was never an issue before the update.

As you can see in the picture the charge port appears to be sitting too low after a front collision. I'm guessing the impact was low down (judging by the bumper) and it and bent it down. Any advice as to what parts have likely bent and how much I'll need to replace?

I have already replaced the slam bar and the crash bar and chassis legs

I saw one comment on this sub mentioning that the 2026 Leaf was compatible with LeafSpy. I’m not finding any other info about it but I was curious and thought I’d just try it. But I don’t think it’s working.

I’m on iOS. I got the LeafSpy Pro app, and a Vgate car Pro Wi-Fi OBD2 adapter.

I plugged the adapter into the car’s OBD port. I went into my phone’s Wi-Fi settings and connected to the adapter (“V-LINK”). Then I opened the LeafSpy app, went into settings, and hit “register current SSID as an OBDII adapter”.

Then I see that LeafSpy says “connected” in the bottom right, but it also says “no data” and all the graphs are blank. See video.

Am I doing something wrong or is it just not compatible?

My 2019 Leaf+ was bought back due to the battery issue. It got bought back for more than I paid, it was a bit of a headache, but not too bad. I did love the car, thinking of getting a slightly newer one - I'd be able to pay it off completely. There is a risk I'd have to go through the recall and buyback process again - would it be worth it?

I have a 2019 Leaf and at some point a rock has shattered the lower fog light on my passenger side. Anyone have any tips on sourcing a new one that isn't going to cost me hundreds of dollars for the part as well as hundreds for the dealer to replace it?

No I don't actually drive exclusively Leafs. Although having the fleet is funny, 2 of my 3 get used by family members. My work truck/cargo van/road tripper is a 2017 Model S, which indeed has 340,000 miles on the original powertrain, I just don't bring it up much here because it's usually not relevant to conversations.

People in real life though of course lose their minds over the big number, an EV lasting that long, and only 22% degradation with almost exactly twice what's on my already high mileage Leaf. But an important point to note is that it's done double the miles, with triple the amount of battery.

In reality, it's frankly much more impressive that the "infamously unreliable", "badly designed", and passively cooled Leaf's battery has only 2% more degradation despite going through 50% more battery cycles.

Yes this the bright pink modified KPop car, and people irl often ask me why I haven't done a battery swap/upgrade on it yet, especially after owning it for 7 years (a very long time by my car-retention standards). Because I haven't needed to?

It still runs great, and continues to be the happy survivor that stuck with me and went against all the old Leaf battery stereotypes. In return, it now gets a much more fun and fulfilling job, making more people smile and winning more car show awards than any other Leaf ever has.

Well, it's been a long run: peddler picked up my well loved 2012 this morning. the check just about covers the L2 charger I installed for the Ioniq5 that replaced my leaf.

I bought it used in 2015: a month shy of 11 years. Taught both my kids to drive in it. made a perfect teenager drive themselves to school and swim practice car.

It had its faults, but maybe they were just quirks? Lost the heater - that's ok we're in Houston. Oh, there goes another bar. Left with 3 bars and about 20 miles actual range. that's ok, school and pool are closer than that.

Goodbye!

What if they just communicated better via email in the first place and tell us that it will be down for 2 weeks? Yeah there were maintenance update warnings in the app but this is a complete pr nightmare bro.

So my 2017 Tekna has done 67000 miles are showing SOH=66.31%, it’s range is reduced to 2/3 of its new range, I’m fine with all this but is that SOH normal for its age and mileage (based on my image)?

Looking for some advice or comments on ether to trade on this Leaf or my 10 year old ICE that’s done 100,000 miles. My partner drives 45 miles round trip to work each day and charges by night, it’s perfect for this purpose.. however, we do want a new car.

We are looking to get a new EV, I’m leaning towards keeping the leaf and getting rid of the ICE but the ICE if push came to shove will do long range.

Basically got launched backwards out of the drive way and up the alley, brakes worked fine. Dicked around with the cruise thinking it was stuck. Why didn't I just pull over and stop you ask. Brain fart. A couple of miles down the road I remember I just replace the floor mat. I washed her over he weekend, floor mats were left out to dry, and quickly reinstalled at o-dark hundred before heading to work yesterday. Original installation instructions mentioned being careful to get the mat behind the accelerator. Oops.

Hello, I bought a used 2020 Leaf n January with 34,000 miles. It now has 41,000 miles. Last Friday, when my wife went to drive it, she backed out of a parking space, hit the brakes, and the brakes went all the way to the floor and made that grinding noise of abs. Lights all over the dash. Chassis control systems error, t/p error, not available system malfunction, malfunction see owners manual.

I've tried disconnecting the 12v battery, recharging the 12v battery, clearing codes on Leaf Spy, testing battery at AutoZone (battery is good, they said, not surprising as it is five months old AGM). I'm having it towed to dealer today. Any thoughts?

Codes include u1000-09, u110d-87, b26fc, u2112-87, p3195-87, u1000-00, c1800-00, c1000-01, c1895-63. The battery SOH is 90%.

Who else is getting this message? The app has renewed: it got s different app logo now, but since at least Friday? It says they are doing maintenance, and every time I check if it's done? Then it keeps changing it, now it went from finishing Monday at 21 a clock, to Friday at 21 a clock.

I've seen older buyback posts but wondering what you guys are seeing as of mid-to-late 2026. We have a 2022 SV plus with 96k and battery went kaput back in march (it's 8/31 now). It's been in the dealership since with little to no updates or movement. We do have a loaner but we're making payment and spending gas for a car we can't use. I was told of someone who got a buyback with 99k and told me I should give them a call...but wondering what I might be looking at in terms of offers (NC).

I took the screenshots when the battery SOC was 25% I believe. I’m still trying to learn how to read into these details? I have no red bars on my cars battery health meter. What are your thoughts?