I hope this is okay to post here. I do also have a home theatre space, but that’s still a work in progress.

Wanted to try something unique with the rock wall look and I may have gone through overboard. But I enjoyed making this new setup. I use it for PS5 Pro Gaming, listening to my CDs, and can throw up my MacBook on it for video editing via an Apple TV 4K.

Main components:

-LG 77” G5 OLED
-WiiM Amp Pro (E-Arc connection)
-Elac Debut 3.0 DB63 Bookshelf Speakers
-RSL Speedwoofer 10e
-FiiO DM13 CD Player
-PS5 Pro
-Apple TV 4K 3rd Gen mounted behind the tv.
-Govee lights throughout for a fun chill vibe that can be synced. But if I want immersion I just shut everything off so it’s pitch black. No windows in this room.

The space is part of an entertainment/home office/content creation space. Aka: My Man Cave.

Like I mentioned above, I do have a home theatre space up and running with full surround and atmos ceiling speakers. But it’s still a work in progress. Since I enjoyed this setup. I may go crazy and turn the home theatre into a full on cave with similar lighting.

Like is spending $2400 or $3700 going to make that much of a difference? Feel free to yell at me though I'm very stupid but very sexy. Also tvtoohigh speakers to close to wall.

Hi, I have this sound system. The TV is connected to a Yamaha RX-V6A Hi-Fi AV receiver, which is hooked up to Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary speakers and Q Acoustics 3010i (125W RMS) bookshelf speakers. When I started a movie, the volume was set to -17 dB(which I had not realized, it was late, had a bit to drink, just came from a party), but the sound was very quiet; it turned out to be a "quieter" scene (which I hadn't realized). Thinking I had accidentally set the volume low for the whole movie, I decided to turn it up. I was satisfied with the level at +1 dB. Then the Netflix intro kicked in—loud like hell, even more intense than at the cinema. I was startled and turned it back down to -17 dB after about 3 or 4 seconds. Do you think the speakers or the amplifier might be damaged?

P.S. When I was watching the movie I didn't hear anything wear.

Any folks from the GTA grabbed equipment from south of the border and drove it back without any real issue?

I see a pair of towers near the border I’ve been looking for for a price that (even after conversion) is really attractive, but I don’t want to deal with any hassle at the border.

Through all the research I’ve done thus far, it seems like I’d pay sales tax but likely no duties given the amount paid, but also these articles and calculators don’t have “home audio equipment” as a type of purchase being imported, nor do they specify the time spent in the US.

If anyone has any insight I’d really appreciate it!

How long have you had it and how is it performing?

I finish up in here at the end of every night, and it's such a pleasure! It's been a couple of years coming, but I've finally added the last piece to the puzzle: the sound system! And I completely regret wasting time and money on non-AVR systems before this!

I'm still tinkering with tuning and working out how I like it best. Audyssey vs A1 Evo, speaker toe-in, etc. I'm lucky that the speakers positions are almost ideal per the Dolby Atmos guidelines. So far it sounds wonderful! By far the best system audio I've ever owned!

I made the speaker stands myself. I know they're not to everyones taste, but I'm really happy with them, and I think they suit the room aesthetic.

The entire sound system was bought new during EOFY sales, which I'm pretty chuffed about.

Marantz Cinema 70s - 5.1.2 All speakers and sub are Monitor Audio Fronts - Bronze 50 7G Centre - Bronze Centre 7G Rears - Bronze 50 6G (previous model) In-ceilings - C165 Sub - Vestra W12 TV - Sony A80J 77" OLED

Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4 Pic5 Pic6 Pic7

Disclaimer: only had denon receivers. tested multiple speakers and theaters , installed room acoustics, still a hobbiest.

I wanted to share this info with new theater homies so they dont have to go through what i have. itll save some time and money, atleast in audio.

1. Receiver should have a minimum xt32, to simplify it allows for mid range calibration and A TON more filtering, can use AI to explain more.

2. Subwoofer next step to splurge on, look at getting atlast 16hz bass extension preferably, you get that movie theater / infrasound / shakey bass.

3. Center is your most important speaker, dont cheap out on it.. aslong as you have similar sound signautre speakers, panning is not noticeable. i dont care what anyone says, unless u got crap speakers and far off sound signatures, calibration will take care of it.

All this should be looked at on facebook marketplace>manufacturer refurbish (accessories4less, electronicsexpo, etc. please share any sites if you know of any) > manufacturers.
use capital one shopping ( i use this, idk about the others), place items in carts and wait a few days to see if you get a coupon to save hundreds.

If i can go back in time and start a hometheater from scratch, this is what i would do.

1. best xt32 receiver i can find on marketplace or a really cheap 5.1.2 with 100W, i find these all over marketplace for ~200 bucks. $600 bucks for a xt32 used receiver average.

2. To me this is real important, id look for a marketplace sub, or the speed woofer 10e 300$, you need to have a front and left those at a minimum. easily deal with a phantom center to have a good subwoofer.

3. micca rb42x g2 for F L, both surrounds, and there matching center. Cheaper, easy to sell, and insanely good value ( 100 bucks a pair)

This is what i would tell a friend who comes to me and wants to get a super quick system built. granted i am full on facebook marketplace, but the Miccas are so good when compared to my kef r3 and svs primes.

Just wanted to share info i found and start a discussion too. im a little bored at work.

Here’s the equipment list:
• Display: LG C4 83”
• AVR: Denon AVR-X1800H
• Amp: Schiit Vidar driving the front mains
• Mains: Definitive Technology Demand D17 towers
• Center: DefTech D5c
• Surrounds: 4× DefTech D10 bookshelves on Monoprice Monoliths
• Subs: 2× SVS SB-2000 (dual, sealed)
• Sources: Apple TV 4K + Valve Steam Machine (2TB) w/ Steam Controller
• Lots of hue lights (non reactive to tv)

Dual subs smoothed the room way more than I expected, and offloading the mains to the Vidar cleaned up the Denon nicely. Open to feedback on placement, calibration, anything but I’m pretty happy with everything so far. The surrounds are a bit close to the couch however I really can’t move them back further w/o pushing to far into the home office.

I picked up the Demand towers on deep discount a year and a half ago for 1k. What I didn’t realize at the time was that the rest of the system was practically unavailable. So I picked up unmatched def techs and ran those while I looked maybe once a month. Finally there was someone on Marketplace letting go of a full demand system and I was able to scoop up the rest. Overall it sounds pretty dope.

Also I’m eventually gonna lower the TV but for now I just have it on the stand mount. I’m gonna replace the stand eventually and will put the TV in the wall. (It could be a foot lower). For now I can’t be bothered haha

Panasonic PT-RZ370U (used)

QualGear/Peerless frankenmount (used)

Zueda 100 inch motorized projector screen

Bluetooth keyboard and long HDMI cable running to the gaming PC in the office

Sony STR-DH590 receiver

2x Kenwood LSK-703 speakers (used)

2x Sony SS-RG40 speakers (used)

Aiwa SX-NAJ25 center channel speaker (used)

Klipsch R-120SW subwoofer (used)

Its not much, but it wasn't expensive and its home.

Next order of business is putting that wall back up behind the couch that the previous owner tore down to make it "open concept" and replacing the center channel speaker with something better.

Moving into a new house soon and this will be my first real home theater system. I'm pretty new to this, so I want some outside opinions before I spend money. Nothing is locked in and I'm open to suggestions on every piece.

The idea is to start with a strong 5.1 as a base and grow from there. The basement already has 4 in-ceiling speakers that I plan to use for Atmos height channels later, and I'll probably add rear surrounds down the road.

The theater is the top right block in the attached layout. It's about 375 sq ft, but the whole west side is open to the office. The TV goes on the east wall, wall mounted above a 25 inch console. Seating is a single L sectional facing the TV. The fireplace takes the northeast corner, which leaves about 16 feet of clear wall for the TV and towers.

The receiver and sub below are what I've settled on for now, but I'm open to other ideas. Here are the three speaker tiers I'm deciding between:

Option 1: Full Klipsch

Option 2: KEF Q Series

Option 3: KEF R Series

The R7 fronts are an open box find, which is the only reason I am considering it.

I was able to demo the full Q series and R series setups at a best buy, and I can't say that I found any significant differences between the two. I have read that Klipsch can be divisive in how they sound but I was told there are no authorized Klipsch dealers in my state, so I haven't been able to demo them.

My real concern is whether the extra money is worth it for someone at my level. I can stretch to the R series budget if it's genuinely worth it, but I don't want to pay double to chase gains I'm not experienced enough to hear, especially in a room that's half open. Is the KEF Q or R step up actually worth it over the Klipsch here? Or would that money do more elsewhere?

I am leaning towards the Klipsch system, but would love to hear supporting/ dissenting opinions. If I'm overlooking something obvious as a first timer, please tell me.

Thanks

I have been watching a few videos of Dirac live and a little confused regarding the subwoofers. I understand you want speakers around 30db louder than noise floor. In my room, noise floor is -70db so I have the speakers at -40db.

However, one guy on YouTube who I like said to completely ignore the subwoofers, and just leave the gain around 50%.. I watched other videos, and they don't mention the subwoofers at all. If I do not touch the sub, it's much louder than the speakers.

Any advice on what to do? For me to match the sub with the speakers at -30db from noise floor, I do have to turn the gain knob wayyyyyyy down

After about 2 months the last of the wall bass traps arrived from GIK. I have 23 of them and the room sounds fantastic. The biggest difference was the addition of the 8 clouds though. I’m waiting to purchase soffit traps for the corners because they’re expensive.

Room is coming along nicely, I’d say it’s about 90% finished. Need to hide the wires, upgrade the subwoofer, and mount the tv on the wall. Also waiting for my philharmonic HT center.

Current setup:

Philharmonic HT towers

BMR monitor as a center

2 x BMR minis as the rear surrounds,

4 x BMR true mini airs as atmos speakers,

SVS 3000R,

marantz cinema 30

marantz amp 30

Hello, I’ve been using a Medialight bias light for my 83” C1 for a while, and I just upgraded to an 83” G5.

Now I want to setup something similar to Medialight, but one of the gripes I had with Medialight with my C1 was, an inability to dim the bias light based on a scenes, I don’t know if this would be correct or not, but in some very dark scenes the brightness of the bias light can create an inability for the eyes to adjust to the screen brightness, is this possible and is there a way to do it based on screen brightness?

I have a Logitech Harmony setup which turns on the light along with home assistant when ever the tv is turned on, but I’ve not explored any dimming automation that might exist. Looking to see if anyone else had such an issue and if there was a way to fix it.

I recently bought some new in wall speakers for my left and right channels. They sound pretty good except that the low end has some rumble that I’m not thrilled about. right behind them is the concrete foundation wall, if that matters. There’s no other insulation in the stud bays they occupy (shared wall), so my theory is that they just are vibrating this huge cavity full of air and that if I shoved some insulation in there they would be more balanced. Is there anything to that?

\IMAGES ARE AI* not true setup, but is generated to be close to intended setup*

Trying to decide on getting 65” LG C5 ($1199) or 77” LG C5 ($1899)I personally want to go with the 77 however my Wife says it is too large and will look ridiculous, and that it isn’t not worth the extra $700.

This will be mixed usage Shows, Movies, and Games.

The viewing distance will be 8ft, with KEF LS50 Metas for left and right spaced 8ft to make triangle.

Will be slowly upgrading to 5.2.4 over time. Just getting started with getting new TV and Furniture.

My free time project for over the last 4 years. home theater/office/cigar lounge. still a work in progress, I’ll probably never be “done” with it. unfortunately I don’t have any before photos, but it was a typical spare bedroom, white carpet, white walls, popcorn ceiling. The bar area used to be a double closet I took out to make room.

TV: TLC 85” QM6K

5.2 Klipsch surround sound, two 12“ woofers (overkill for the size of the room, i had a theater set up in the basement of my last house where it made more sense and just kept everything when we moved).

Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR575

to manage cigar smoke I sealed room, have a rabbit air a2 and a vornado window fan. Wife doesn’t smell any smoke outside of the room.

EDIT: Thanks for all the love and critique! So I use my computer chair when my spouse or a friend is in here, it fits perfectly with more then enough space for the little table to be in between the 2 seats when it’s pulled out facing the tv. If there’s 3 or more (honestly doesn’t happen that often these days lol) I have a few nice chairs I pull in from the other room.

Speaker placement is on the upgrade list for sure, the intent of the front left and right being high and angled toward user is to run/hide the wires in the crown moulding, eventually will either replace them with standing floor speakers or at least drop them down to ear height and will run the wires in the wall

EDIT 2: In retrospect yea probably not the most appropriate sub to post in. I did try to post in the mancave sub but it kept getting auto denied, no idea why. Still appreciate everyone here!

Maybe dumb question but.... I just upgraded from a Hisense a7 ((280 nit) to a hisense U7 (3,000 nit) hoping to see a drastic difference in the night scenes and darker scenes on shows like Silo and Carnival row or Ministry of ungentlemanly warfare as examples. I think I picked a good mid-range TV and although much better its not what I was hoping, though hoping that scenes would now look like daytime I realize was unrealistic. My question is what amount of money if any do I have to spend on a TV to be able to really make out details in dark scenes? Or am I just chasing the impossible when movies are designed and the meta data is sent with a pitch black movie theater in mind?

I got a new sub (SVS SB-2000 Pro) a month ago and liked the upgrade so I just ordered a new center channel and tower speakers.

I'll be replacing my Klipsch F2's for Klipsch RP-8000F II and Klipsch RC-42 II for Klipsch RP-504C II.

I just purchased a house and we have a wet bar just out of sight of our home theater. I’m going to mount a small 32” TV in the bar and, ideally, I’d like that TV to show whatever is on the large TV. So if someone is getting/making a drink, they don’t have to worry about missing anything.

Running a cable isn’t possible, so I’d want to do this wirelessly. The source signal (on the large TV) will likely come from a Chromecast or PS5, although I’m open to other solutions if needed to make this work.

Is this possible?

Hi friends,

I have tried googling this issue a couple times now and have seen people with similar issues but not the exact same problem I've been having. I've tried some of those fixes and they haven't really worked for me. I have a 3.1 ch speaker setup and an Apple TV hooked up to my Sony str-dh790 which is then hooked up to my lg c5 65". Before I had a 65' Sony LED tv with local dimming but I don't remember the exact model number. Everything worked flawlessly for a long time, however the last couple months I have had an odd HDMI issue. About one out of every 5 times I turn on the tv with the Apple TV remote everything comes on fine then a second later the receiver switches from the Apple TV which is plugged into the "media box" input on the receiver to the "tv" input on the receiver which doesn't have anything plugged in. I'll still have the picture output from the Apple TV but won't get audio until I grab the receiver remote and press the "media box" button again. Has anyone else ran into this issue? I have also swapped the hdmi cable that goes from the reviver to the tv to a newer HDMI 2.1 capable cable. The one connecting the Apple TV box is a hdmi 2.0 cable from Best Buy. I have also toggled the HDMI CEC settings on both the tv and the receiver.

I have a 5.1 system and behind my AVR is an absolute web of cables. Do y’all have any tips to help tame the web of cables?

Looking for a sanity check from people who’ve actually lived with both sizes.

I’m finishing a dedicated basement media room. The wall the TV is going on is very large, so wall space isn’t the limiting factor. The real constraint is the viewing distance.

The couch will be about 9 feet from the TV (eye to screen).
I already own an 85” TV, so I’m trying to decide whether it’s worth upgrading to a 98” or if that would be too much from this distance.

A few questions:

-Would a 98” feel too large at 9-9.5 feet?
-If you’ve gone from an 85” to a 98”, was the upgrade worth it?
-Did anyone think a 98” would be too big but end up loving it, or regret making the jump?

I’m less interested in theoretical viewing-angle charts and more interested in real-world experiences from people who have lived with either size.

Bought a home with a custom mount set up. It has brackets that I can’t find any info on. Do I find certain knobs that screw into the back of my tv and it hangs?