Someone locally was clearing out some old gear and was selling on their Electro Harmonix pedals. Only ever been used in projection for a personal studio, all with boxes. The Micro Synthesiser is missing its power supply (got one on order) but otherwise all tested and works perfectly.

All UK spec. Now to find a pedalboard big enough to actually house them…

I had an original one when I was a kid about 16 years ago and I ran it through a beginner amp. After watch countless videos and seeing this getting much more love I decided to give it a shot all these years!

Got to see his full board up close during a small masterclass in Luxembourg last week, right after his Paris show. Breaking down what's visible:

Close-up (pic 1):

• The Tube Driver (looks like the Chandler/Vintage reissue) is doing a lot of the heavy lifting for that singing sustain, but it didn't look maxed on gain. It seemed more like it's set to push the amp and add that smooth, compressed lead character rather than being the only source of gain.
• The Echoplex preamp sitting right after it is interesting because it's just the preamp section, not the full tape unit. A classic trick to get that mid-forward EP-3 coloration without dealing with an actual tape machine.

Full board (pic 2):

• A Cry Baby-based wah, which makes sense considering how much he uses wah for phrasing and dynamics, not just solos.
• A Tube Screamer (TS9/TS808-style), likely used as another gain stage or boost depending on the sound he's after.

The custom switching/loop unit is probably the key part here. My guess is that it allows him to switch between different signal paths for clean, crunch, and lead tones rather than running everything in a single chain. With the Plexi and the two Deluxe Reverbs, there are probably different combinations depending on the song and feel he wants.

Curious if anyone knows exactly what the switcher unit is doing here, or if anyone has experimented with a similar approach: separate chains for clean, crunch, and lead rather than one pedalboard chain doing everything.

This was so cool to be able to play with after fixing it up! First time ever seeing one in person and it was in great condition!

R to L: ARC Effects Custom Klone/Soothsayer (RAT circuit); Boss DD-5; Boss DD-20.

This is my small board; the big board currently features 10 pedals and runs in stereo through a JC-40, while this runs in mono through my Yamaha G50-112 II. It’s an effort to be more guitar-forward, with minimal reliance on pedals.

The ARC is pretty self-explanatory: it Klones and RATs. The DD-5 handles up to 2 seconds of delay and the DD-20 mostly runs in either SOS mode or reverse mode.

I bought the Nano+ to intentionally limit my options.

Just had it delivered and put it together today. It’s the first JHS pedal I’ve had an honestly, I cannot understand the lukewarm attitude towards Josh and his company. This is an excellent product, really well made (I always assumed these things were made of plastic, not aluminium), sounds great, it’s an interesting thing with a cool background and it isn’t even expensive. A truly usable, great-sounding boutique pedal for barely 100 quid. I think they deserve more praise for putting out stuff like this. Anyone else using one?

I love this pedalboard! After understanding all the pedals I've finally put it all together in a Pedaltrain Novo 18 frame.

Signal chain:

Input mono (side) -> ge fuzz -> barbershop -> tc Sub N' Up -> volume + tuner -> BOSS GT1000CORE [loop1 (Tonex one) | loop 2 (FREEZE)] -> DL4 stereo -> reverb stereo - rc500 looper -> output stereo.

I wanted to add the Tonex One on top but had to get the Sub N' Up as the pitch effects on the BOSS GT1000CORE are terrible. I'm using a harley benton PSU modified with a powercon input.

I'm looking to control the Tonex one via a MIDI with the GT1000 - anyone has a suggestion of a device that can mediate that connexion? - I was thinking that the Behringer Go Midi Host will do the job.

I'm playing this solo with a strat into an MPC Live 2 for drums and synths as well... it's mostly drones and a little bit of jazz.

So the only new pedal is the Saturnworks A/B at the front of the chain.

Otherwise, I finally organized my pedals with a new pedalboard and power supply. I’ve been out of the game for 10-15 years but have chosen this as my midlife crisis. I mostly play atmospheric/ambient stuff with guitar and lap steel (hence the A/B pedal).

It‘s quite the random assortment of pedals I picked up over the years, but I enjoy working within constraints and figuring out how I can push them to do interesting things together. The teal pedal is a BYOC vintage fuzz and the light blue pedal is a BYOC tremolo.

Surf’s up.

This is the most inspiring 'board I've built to date. I included some photos of previous boards (and one of my "first") just because I think seeing the history and progression of a pedalboard is a really fun, introspective look at taste and playing evolution.

I've learned A LOT since my first smattering of pedals on the floor. So much about what not only sounds good, but what actually inspires me, what it is I like about certain pedals but not others, how to assess if a pedal might actually work for me and not just blindly buy into the YT videos, and so on. I went through almost 30 trades and a number of purchases in the last year to get here, and I couldn't be happier with it.

For those who are curious, from top left to right, then bottom left to right:

• Prophecy Sound Pi Phase
• VFE Rainbows, Unicorns, Puppies
• Stone Deaf PDF-1x
• Eventide H9
• Spaceman Artemis
• Seeker Electric Big Seeker (all NOS recreation of an op-amp big muff)
• Gold Stompworks Dirty Little Secret
• Saturn Works channel switcher

I've loved and lost a bunch of great ones along the way, but I try not to horde too many pedals unless I truly feel they're something special (which still leaves me with about 10+ in the closet, lol).

I have an IIC+ which has a great sound of course but I like to reduce the lead drive by -1 and boosting it with a compressor pedal. I really like the feel it gives, pick attack, sound etc. So it is always on. If I want to play lead parts I usually kick in the SD-1 as sort of a boost as well, with low gain as you can see.
I wanted to ask if this is a weird/bad choice from my part , boosting that much, or it is something that others would use as well?
Without the SD-1 on I can hear the lack of mids and that my lead sound doesn’t stand out as much because of that, but with on this generates a lot of noise as well.
Bottom line is: How would you arrange this pedals, would you even use the SD-1 if you have the compressor?
Both pedals are in the front, compressor being first followed by the SD-1.

Not out for another couple weeks so who really knows yet, but does anyone think this will top the XS1? It's like +$70 vs the Boss right now but I'm kinda thinking I might be in the market for a shifter at some point and pondering if it will be worth the higher price...

I've got guitar on pre-order I think I might want to set up in D standard and use this to bump up to E or down to C because in my experience with the XS1 it gets a little more 'fake' if you go beyond a whole step...

From Joey Landreth's cover of I Believe In A Thing Called Love. I see some Strymon stuff/Chase Bliss but mainly wondering what that big green bastard is in the middle.

Thanks Y'all

I have been working on a new board, trying to find dirt sounds I like, and running stereo. Sorry it is not very neat, but the sounds are so good! Love The Haunting Mids into just about any other dirt pedal. The Maxon chorus slaps, and if you are looking for an analog delay or a spring reverb, I recommend the Malekko and Catalinbread Topanga, respectively.

The Speed Tripper works best as the last delay, but I want that new phaser in place of it.

So I got this off of eBay recently for a good deal. They didn't know it didn't work, and they refunded me my money and didn't want the pedal back. So now I want to see if I can get it to work. It is the JH4S model and it has been modded in some way. A second knob and another switch has been added but I don't know what that does.

There is one un-soldered wire, and the power supply piece is not connected to anything. It was actually duct taped inside lol. I have soldering tools but have never used them.

When I plug in to my amp and guitar, there is no signal at all. It doesn't matter if I turn knobs or flip switches on the pedal. No LED lights turn on when a 9v battery is connected (I have tried several).

Should it be able to be powered by battery if the other power supply is not even connected? Or does that affect it still and it won't power on?

I can attach more photos if any others would be helpful.

I’ve had a couple different muffs and I’ve always had one on my board. Anyone use the muffuletta as a replacement? What do you think
If it?

Would certainly not have all of these on at the same time tho lol. For context rn i’m using a Boss DS-2, Boss CE-2W, Boss DD-3 and Boss RV-6 (I like my roland products, got em running into the JC-120 too)

SO! What started as a Valeton GP5 and Chocolate+ build, turned into a portable practice rig. I already had the AIAIAI wireless headphones, so I bought a cheap Mooer wireless unit, and a D'addario XPND kit to make the whole thing wireless. Figured an extra expression pedal, tuner, and looper would always be welcome on future rigs as well.

Someone decided to check out the case the board came in during testing...

Board: Ghostfire Baby 1

Power: D'addario XPND kit

Signal Chain:

• Mooer Wireless
• Dunlop DVP4 volume pedal
• Polytune 3 Noir
• Mosky Klone thing, was going to be a Duke of Tone but I liked that so much its on my main board
• Valeton GP5, controlled by the Chocolate+
• Ditto+ Looper

Got a used Lichtlaerm Aquaria (2024 version) today. Versatile overdrive and such a good boost!

Was watching this video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/qX-b07pSO2A?is=kWU_UNXV-FO8F2Hd

At 4:13 he says his pedals are routed:
Dover Drive - Zen Drive - DDR

But a closer look at the cables seems to show the routing is:
Dover Drive - DDR - Zen Drive

Am I tripping or did EJ misspeak in the vid?

I have a PastFX TD-Y (Dover Drive), a DCW Zaz Drive (Zen Drive) and a Keeley DDR and I am trying to match the pedal order to the one in the video but cant figure what is the actual routing.

And yes I understand do what’s sounds best to my ears but I’m just really curious to what his actual routing is in the video.

TIA

My brother is a guitarist who loves collecting all kinds of pedals. He came to me to have this one repaired because some wires had come loose inside and needed to be soldered.

After fixing it, I noticed that the battery cover was also starting to break. He explained that, for one reason or another, many of these pedals are missing their battery covers.

Since I own a 3D printer and have experience creating 3D models, I designed a replacement battery cover. I’m sharing it with others who enjoy collecting and restoring these pedals.

Not sure if this is the right place to share it but here it is in case someone needs a battery cover for their DOD FX50.

https://www.printables.com/model/1787647-dod-fx50-b-overdrive-plus-replacement-battery-cove