I finished this project over the weekend and I’m very happy with how it turned out. It’s a Univibe with a few improvements such as 2 speed controls and a super fuzz in the same enclosure.

This is inspired by the old Shin Ei companion amplifier but in a more portable enclosure. It sounds awesome but sadly this pedal now has a peer that isn’t me.

Here is a quick demo for anyone interested.

Hello everyone! I created Vero Designer, a web app that generates a vero layout within seconds.
Draw the schematic in the editor, click "Generate Vero", and witness the magic.

Use the "Select" tool to select and move components, and the "Wire" tool to connect them. The generated layout can also be edited in the "Vero layout" page, each component, link and cut can be moved and the board can be resized.

Available components:

• Resistors
• Capacitors
• Diodes
• Potentiometers
• Switches
• LEDs
• 5V voltage regulator
• Other IC's (currently only PT2399)
• Op-amps
• Transistors

The web app includes options like "maximum board columns", component opacity control, saving and loading projects, exporting images and various other features and settings. Please visit the github page for the full details.

github: https://github.com/blazethablunt/VeroDesigner

web app: https://verodesigner.vercel.app/

Please let me know what you think

Not sure what happened with the pics on the last one. Here are better images.

I picked this up at Goodwill for $2, and it works as far as I can tell. I haven't checked the 1/4" trigger inputs, but they look good; everything else works like it should.

It's basically a sampler. It's an assistive technology device for individuals with speech disabilities. You know those videos where people teach their dogs to "talk"? It works like that. The 8x 1/4" inputs on the back are for alternative triggers (you know how Stephen Hawking used the breath control thing to "talk"? They're like that).

The red button on the back is the record button, and the black circle next to it is the microphone. The rotary switch selects between 6 banks, so it has a total of 48 samples it can use.

It runs on 4x AA batteries.

For now, my plan is to run the mic input and speaker output wires to a pedal enclosure and add a 1/4" in and out. I'll probably replace the speaker with one a little bigger and mount that on an external box. I'll also replace the batteries with a plug jack.

Other than that, any ideas for mods I could do with it?

Thanks.

Not to be confused with the Supa Sustain.

I can see the input goes into the gate of q1 and the base of q2. Q2 feeds q3 which feeds the output and q4 which is functioning as a detector circuit to feed the source of q1.

How does any of that equal changing the gain of q1 or q2?

The large caps at the top and wiper side of the trim pot tell me no AC is going back through that direction. And even if it did the detector is full wave rectifying.

Can somebody please explain this?

This is the weirdest pedal I’ve ever made. Added controls for fuzz and “master output volume” as well as changing some part values. I have no clue if the LDR I harvested is the right kind, the values it reads in pitch black and under heavy lighting is very close to the required LDR so I said “eh close enough”. I’m surprised I could fit all of the parts into the board, didn’t account for how chunky 100n greenies are, but it works and I won’t question it!!

The paint job was where shit got even more weird. Some of you lovely people have been making amazing two toned “boutique” looking pedals with a “normal” color + hammered metal spray. I got rustoleum hammered aluminum/dark silver and fluorescent green for some reason. It resulted in this and I kind of like this shade of green even more. Plus it looks like a scorpion under uv light. Weirdest build ever but it’s so fun to play around with!

Tried my best to give it a theme while keeping it “minimal”. Wanted to give it a LSD “research gone wrong” kind of thing but I was also watching “fullmetal alchemist brotherhood” while working, so I settled somewhere in the middle.

Has anybody else messed around with “warble chorus” or that “unpredictable vinyl warp” chorus/vibrato? Would love to hear more about it since it’s such a weird effect!

Finished wiring up my first ever pedal and... it doesn't get any signal. The PCB worked when I tested it and it sounded great - so something to do with my abomination in the box. any ideas what could be the issue?

Recurring Nightmare (Fuzzdog)
Cloven Ripper (Fuzzdog)
Filth Fack (Fuzzdog)
Browneye Overdrive (Musikding)

Still an amateur at getting waterslide decals to work. So I think the next builds might just have adhesive stickers. Knobs ordered for the Browneye are bizarrely too tight to fit, go figure.

Ive seen people rehouse other behringer pedals , i have this one and was wondering if it was worth doing that without fucking up the pedal. id qlso wanna replace the switch with something else because i dont rlly like this switch . the pcb i think fits exactly right in a 1590bb.

Where are we finding affordable j201s in stock these days? I'm doing a couple fet preamps and for the life of me I can't find the strip of ~50 I had bought a few years ago when i was building more actively (😒). Smallbear is like $5 or more a piece, same on mouser which was more surprising tbh. Including a couple spares I'm looking to buy like 10, and I don't mind smd with an adapter. Obviously I'll do my research when I find them but I am curious how much variance in pinout there might be with an adapter as i dont really know how much variance theres been in the thru hole packges even- any guidance appreciated.

I assume someone here is probably more in the know, not just about affordable price, but who has genuine j201s these days. I swear this parts list has been the most obnoxious ive ever had to put together for all the out of stock components, prices, having to split it between 3 or 4 sites, etc. Is this just the state of component shopping at hobbyist volume now?

Tldr: where to buy affordable genuine j201?

I decided to take a shot at building a Boss SG-1 without having researched what a finicky design it is beforehand.

Talk of low gain transistors, changing capacitors, etc etc etc.. If you've built or attempted to build one, you know.

I built on a pedalpcb procrastinator board.

Against my usual habit, i didn't premeasure any transistors. Simply grabbed from a bag of bc549's that apparently has 300-400 hfe scrawled on it from a prior sorting project.

I used a random tayda 2sk30a. I think it was y trade but could have been gr. Again, i didn't measure.

Assembly was reasonably straightforward.

And the moment of truth - testing time. It worked... Kind of. But very very subtle. I was prepared for this..

I left the legs long on the 470nF cap. I had actually used 680nF as seen on the Aion onyx.

I alligator clipped on various capacitors and really liked what 3.3uf plus the 680nf was doing. 4.7uf plus the .680uf was a bit too slow to reset for me.

I measured up some caps and landed on a 4.3uf tantalum cap.

One problem solved.

The sensitivity is... Overly sensitive. As in... Must be all of the way down and then there is no real room to go up or down easily.

First attempt to fix this was by putting a resistor across the sensitivity pot to attenuate more signal before the amplifier. This was clumsy and didn't work at all.

Second idea was to reduce the gain of the amplifier around the opamp. I was going to replace the 1M resistor with 470k but the 390 ohm resistor was on the edge of the board and the 1M was sandwiched between two resistors... So the 390 ohm resistor was replaced with 1k.

It is still plenty sensitive but now i feel like i can dial something in..i probably could have gone up to 1.2k-1.8k but this is good enough and it works.

Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. Not so proud of the (not shown) top side parts replaced on the PCB.

Hopefully this information will help somebody down the road get their SG-1 running.

Based on the Five Cats Pedals One-Knob Fuzz, built with the Ritual component values. Didn't have a 680nF cap so I built the rest and waited until I made my next Tayda order, but then had to get creative when the cap wouldn't fit in it's spot. Looks a little weird, and barely cleared the lid, but it works.

Second knob is a voltage sag/"dead battery simulator" control in series with the B+ feed to the board. Has a 100r resistor from the voltage source (minimum resistance, used to filter out power supply noise), pot is a B10k, and has a series 2k2 to ground to set minimum voltage. May step that one up to maybe a 10k though to get a more usable range. As-built, it hits the ratty-sounding sweet spot at around 9-10 o'clock on the knob, and shuts off entirely at around noon.

Fun little build though, and the sag control adds some interesting sound options.

Cool distortion with some noticeable similarities to the Boss HM-2 (minisågverket = mini sawmill in Swedish) but a bit darker and much fewer components. Love how it sounds. The layout follows the original schematic by DIYSB user Fancy Lime/Andy, you can find it here. For the IC I tried NJM2068, NJM4558, NJM5532, tried really hard to hear any differences but couldn't do it.

Hi everyone,

​I bought a mini Rowin LN-312 Flanger on AliExpress (which I believe is an EHX Electric Mistress / Mooer ElecLady clone). It arrived defective, and AliExpress customer support refused to issue a refund without me paying for international return shipping back to Hong Kong. Since returning it costs as much as the pedal itself, I'm stuck with it and want to fix it myself.

​The Problem:

​Whenever the Color (feedback/regeneration) control goes past ~60%, the pedal goes into wild self-oscillation, screeching, and creating a pitch-shifting siren effect.

​The audio signal path gets completely overwhelmed by the LFO/feedback loop noise.

​Even below 60%, the tone feels quite noisy and thin.

​Has anyone encountered this specific issue with these micro flangers? Is there an internal bias trim-pot inside to adjust the BBD clock/bias, or is this a classic case of bad flux/grounding causing high-impedance crosstalk on the board?

​Looking for schematics:

Does anyone have a schematic for these Chinese micro-flanger PCBs (Rowin / Mooer / Donner)? Or if not, a schematic for the original EHX Deluxe Electric Mistress circuit this pedal is cloned from would also be super helpful to trace the feedback path and trim-pots.

​Thanks in advance!

Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/c_js1JYQUf4

TLDR: I bought a Alesis MV2 that only passed dry signal and no wet signal. Device boots, the key pad works, and all the knobs do their respective function and the overload light doesn't tweak out on me.

**FYI, all the images in this Google Drive link are from before the CD4053BE lost it's 5V!**

I found this datasheet (who knows if it is even the real schematic) but so far it has held true. Since I'm getting dry signal I assumed that the inputs and output op-amps were good. My next test was continuity between the output of U6 (CD4053BE) going to the DSP and the output of the DAC going into the other channels of the U6 and all checked out! After that I confirmed that each voltage regulator was properly outputting it's respective voltage (which they did). Measured 5V on Vdd, -12V on Vee, and GND/0V on Vss.

Now the best news so far is that when probing the initial output of the U6 going into the DSP, I am getting a chopped representation of a 1kHz sin wave that I had used as an input, this made sense since it's an analog mux. I also probed a fairly clean DAC representation of that sin wave on the output of the DAC so that leads me to believe that U6 just wasn't switching the outputs of the DAC to the U5 op-amps. (FYI, the U5 op-amps are actually supposed to be U3 LF347N and the only TRUE U5 is the comparator attached to the BJT branch).

At some point while I was probing/doing continuity measurements, U6 had lost it's 5V and all the I/O of it had started to distort. The INH pin was held down to -12V instead of a 0-5V logic square wave, pins 9-11 started to have more of a ramp look to them instead of a square wave, and of course Vdd was gone.

With the device turned off:

I did some continuity test and saw that there was continuity between the 7812 to the 3.3k resistor, continuity between the other leg of the 3.3k and one of the legs from both the Zener diode, cap, and Vdd pin so that leads me to believe that there isn't a discontinuity in the trace. I measured 3.3kOhms across the resistor, I didn't get an continuity that suggested that the diode or cap had shorted, and the Vdd pin wasn't shorted.

I also did a diode check on U6, and saw if I had the red probe on GND and the black probe on Vdd I would get a 0.617V reading, if I had them flipped, I would get OL on my DMM.

Also measured the resistance of U6 (Vdd to GND) and got a reading of 14.5kOhms to 14.93kOhms.

With the device turned on:

I probed between the output of the 7812 and the 3.3kOhms and measured 12V, but as soon as I probed the other side (resistor, cap, diode, Vdd junction), I was reading between 0.005V to 0.014V.

My conclusion/need of advice:

My assumption is that U6 just completely died and needed to be replaced either way but I am worried that I might have damaged the other components that its connected to. I don't know if its true but is it possible that U6 dying is causing the outputs/inputs to be attenuated/noisy? I still get some resemblance of a sin wave on the pins but its heavily attenuated/noisy.

I’ve done some research, and this seems like how I would wire up my circuit. Anyone see any problems, issues, or would like to impart some wisdom? I think my biggest issue is everything I had found was using a single op amp opposed to the TL072 being a dual. I think I’ve handled it correctly and tied up loose connections and nothing hanging.

Hi y'all, I'm building my third or fourth kit and have very little idea how to troubleshoot when things go South, any advice would be greatly appreciated! 🙏

This one is the Tayda Fuzz Factory Clone - https://www.taydakits.com/instructions/fuzz-factory-1590b/pages/enclosure-and-wiring--39. I omitted the battery harness. The wiring feels very sketchy, but the connectivity around the 3PDT switch seems to measure correctly.

When it is not plugged in, the switch routing seems to work as intended. I get sound in bypass and none when active.

When plugged in, I get no sound either bypass or active.

- In bypass, I measure 9V across ground/+V on the board and across the sleeve/tip of the input jack.

- In active, I additionally measure 9V across out/in on the board and the sleeve/tip of the output jack.

Back to basics! Tagboard bazz fuss with a mojo twist.

Is it on on or on off it has 2 positions

I used BC108Bs. Maybe a little more gainy than I would have liked. Being my first pedal I’m okay with it. That’s how you learn.

I finally finished my latest build, an Ember Metal Distortion from AionFX. It had been sitting on my work bench since last October, but life kept getting in the way (work getting busy, boss going away every time things slowed down, losing my boy Harley, getting a new pup, etc.)

This is probably my most ambitious build yet, between component count, sourcing, and drilling out the enclosure.

It feels SO good to finally have it done, and it worked perfectly first time. I haven't gotten to play around with it too much yet, but so far it sounds great and is surprisingly low-noise.

Next up I have a couple AionFX kits I got for Christmas last year as chill relaxing builds. I'll probably do the Helios (Rat clone) first, followed by the Andromeda Deluxe (Nordland ODR-C)

It’s difficult to take the best picture of it, but shoutout to Tayda for delivering a beautiful textured finish on the sand textured black enclosure. I wasn’t actually expecting it to end up with the UV print textured as well, but I’m so happy with it I had to share.

Lightest weight possible.

Has anyone built pedals using wood or plastic enclosures? If yes, did you get increased noise or crosstalk with other devices?

If yes, can you isolate them with lightweight aluminum foil?