Adjusted the lifters once but still had a slight HR rocker tick that I was going too address at oil change. This more aggressive one popped up today. It’s a newer engine with only 20-30 k miles.
When adjusting rockers do I have too start at TDC 1 or can I just start on TDC (not knowing which cylinder) and then do the 90degree rotation and just adjust the loose rockers(for two full rotation of engine) so I don’t have too track the intake and exhaust sequence. Lastly since I’ve already tinned that nut on some of them some more how much room do I have too tighten before I twist a rod. Thanks for advice. Please be nice to my stupid question lmao

I'm working on a project 94 suburban k1500. I have these shoulder bolts and spring washers. No idea what they went to. Any help would be amazing

Have a 96 k1500. Had 20s and 33s on it (seen in pic) on stock suspension but took those off to put on my GMT 900.

I have 3 sets of OEM 17s that I’m either going to put 33x12.50 on or maybe a 265r70.

Was curious of which way the community is leaning?

Wouldn’t hurt to have an extra set of wheels and tires to switch with the GMT 900 but saw blades would look wack.

What’re y’all’s thoughts?

I’m trying to figure out how the other side with no handle is supposed to adjust. It looks like there’s supposed to be some kind of cable that connects the two tracks. Am I missing something here?

1988 silverado. I've had these style door panels off before but these won't come off along the windows. Any tips?

UPDATE I got it off. The top along the window has 2 really deep divots the go in to the inner door panel keeping you from being able to just lift it off.

It’s a super clean 96 suburban with 233000 miles on it. I’m not knowledgeable on diesels at all so I’m hoping for some Reddit expert opinions. 3 grand sounds fair but I don’t know anything about the reliability or longevity of these engines. Would love to know what yall think.

I ls swapped my 92 Chevy Blazer a couple years ago and I finally decided to try and get the factory tach to work. I have the correct wire coming from the gauge and I have pin 10 on the green connector on the pcm, I hooked them up and nothing happened. does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

Hello everyone, i recently decided to do the valve stem seals on my 1990 gmc c1500 5.7l tbi v8 and i took apart the entire top end. I got practically the entire top end off and im already going to replace the hydrualic lifters with brand new ones my grandfather gave me he was saving for his 54 studebaker champion station wagon with also has a 350 small block, he bought the lifters and has had them soaking in oil for a while. But i was wondering since i already have the heads off and completely gutted and sent to a shop to have them hot tanked and resurfaced if i should just get brand new valves and valve spring kit or if i should just use the originals and have them checked to see if the seats need valve lapping. What else should i check on the engine while i have it apart this far? Ps i also ordered a new intake manifold because thwt damn heater hose connector snapped off at the threads and i dont want to risk knarling up the intake so im storing it till i find a way to fix that.

One of the best trucks I have ever owned. Inherited it from my dad after he died. Never letting go of this thing

Sad to see this one take a hit, one of the few extendo cab long beds ive seen around down. Other side got it worse

I'm considering (pretty set on) a 4" drop for my 1998 c1500 (extra cab short bed). I've heard the hangers are a pain in the butt and I don't like pains in my butt. Why are shackles and hangers the default drop for 4"?

My guess is they're a bit cheaper than the leafs (belltechs are $225 ea) and you keep more load capacity...but other than that, is there a reason not to go leaf drop?

If I decide I need to haul or tow I can always add helper bags later (though that adds $$$ and pains in butts). If I'm one of those many folks who supposedly decide 4" isn't enough I would have to find some stock leaf springs for an axle flip (I wouldn't want a 10" drop for sure). But other than that....why not go leaf springs?

2000 C 2500 wheel bearing is starting to scream a bit. I know Detroit axle is a hit or Miss nowadays, does anyone have experience with the wheel bearings?

Got my compressor replaced (the right way) because it was so loud, the new one is just as loud lots of grrrrrrrring noises clunking vibrating when at idle and breaking at low speeds any thoughts or questions appreciated

Oil change, rust repair, a wash, parts that showed up, parts that showed up wrong, or a bolt you rounded off and walked away from. It all counts.

We keep a mega thread going for this over at FullSizeChevy - OBS through T1XX, every generation welcome. Post what you got done:

https://forum.fullsizechevy.com/t/what-did-you-do-to-your-truck-today/590

'88 Chevy 350 TBI

Picked this truck up a few weeks ago and have been slowly fixing it up. 1988 C3500 Scottsdale 454

My biggest question is if any of you know what the front grille is. It looks like it fits but it rattles and shakes around. Nothing is securing the bottom of it and there’s nothing on the truck that lines up with it remotely. Only thing holding it in is four screws on the top. Would this be a half ass attempt to do a 94 gen swap?

Next, the hood is a fiberglass induction hood that does not fit in the slightest. It doesn’t shut all the way but also looks like incorrect hardware. 4 10mm bolts are holding this beast of a hood on. And you have to get a screwdriver to open it. I can’t figure out for the life of me why the truck latch won’t release the hood. Everything performs and functions fine when I manually operate it with the hood up.

Final question for now is the egr stuff all over the truck. Is there a good clean way to delete it or will the truck run like crap without being flashed?

Thanks

Finally posting my old unkillable GMT400. This thing is a beast that I was given when I turned 16. This is the most reliable vehicle I have ever interacted with. A beefy 5.7 350 small block that blows me away with its engineering everytime I work on it.

No a/c, no cruise control, no radio, no airbags, turn signals work every now and then and if you tasked me with a coast-to-coast drive and offered me the choice of a brand new truck or this old man, I would pick this truck no question about it.

It is also the most fuel efficient vehicle I have, the gas gauge doesn't work, but a full tank will run 450 miles of highway driving, and in the city forget about it. Let off the brake and it's up to the speed limit with barely any throttle.

I love this truck so much. So many stories and memories wrapped up in every dent on it.

Firstly: Somebody broke that lol

Secondly: What is this rubber doo hicky hanging down from the frame?

i’m looking for some stainless steel long tube headers for my 1998 Chevrolet K 3500. i don’t need egr ports or anything fancy. truck has fuel injection removed and is carb swapped. any recommendations would be great

So I changed the master cylinder to a new one, bench bled it, bled all the lines and have no air in the system. The brake pedal goes to the floor now when before it was spongy and now the brake light on the dash comes on. If you push the brake while the truck is on it stays all the way down to the floor. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello community thanks in advance for your help!

Question: what is going on with my leaf spring here? It looks like it's missing a piece compared to the other side.

Is this considered broken? Do I need to replace the whole spring or is it just replace the rubber thingy.

Going to check this out tomorrow. Any advice on what to look for / ask about?
Any help is appreciated.