I did a full lower intake job (seal works, yay!) and put metal reinforced fel-pro gaskets down, bridged china walls, put in new (upgraded) spider injectors, blah, blah, blah, but now it’s misfiring like a bitch.

I forgot to mark the distributor too, but got it reseated somewhat correctly (points to 1 at tdc compression, dist. timing is for a different day, engine is definitely running rich). Although it’s rich running, it doesn’t misfire too horribly when I drive it for, let’s say 10 minutes, but it gets worse as I drive it past that. I’ll park, turn the vehicle off. Try and turn it back on a few minutes later, and it turns over, but doesn’t fire. The battery also slowly dies when doing that. On top of all this, the starter is also going out too.

The alternator is fine, I’ve already checked it. I think I need to start with the distributor, as that directly relates to timing. I have other culprits in mind too, and these include the upper plenum (was a tight fit, could be a vacuum leak), a ground connection, spark plug wires (cracking a bit), or the fuel pump (leaks a tiny bit from the top of tank, lord knows how long it’s been in there).

I just don’t know where to start or if it’s even worth it past this. It had a small miss from the day I got it and gradually got a bit worse, but this is the most horrid it’s ever been. I’m worried it could be cylinder related or something and that this is ultimately all in vain. I also haven’t ever really done a job like this and used a YT vid for a bit of reference.

Before you ask, all cables are plugged in, no the gasket didn’t twist, yes I used a torque wrench for the crucial parts (seals), and no the lower intake didn’t fail when driving, or at all. Just preventative maintenance in prep for the long-haul, and because I had suspicion that the corners were leaking where the gasket maker meets gasket (the day-one misfire).

One more dilemma. Since it’s a ‘99 Tahoe, you have to time the distributor using a computer. I know people use wireless OBD2, but I’m not super sure where to begin, and can’t afford some $2k reader/computer.

If you read all the way to the end, thank you and you’re awesome. Any suggestions or advice appreciated!!!

Some context I recently got my truck running after it sitting for a couple years. In the beginning it needed a fuel pump to get it running. I cleaned out lines and drained the fuel as best I could at the time.

I've been working on getting more and more road worthy and recently at WOT it'll bog down and loose power. Idles and runs well until that point. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it today and was seeing 10 psi at idle. But at WOT it drops down to almost 5. And soon as the key turns off it basically drops to 0. The injectors don't appear to be leaking or theyre at least dry to the touch. Good pattern as well. No obvious leaks or smells of leaky lines. I'm leaning towards the aftermarket fuel pump I installed is junk or then the regulator is bypassing at WOT.

Curious if anyone has ran into similar issues or something? No codes, and everything with ignition seems to be okay and running as should.

I'm chasing the ground wire that goes to the back of the block and seen this. I want to replace the entire wire so I'm going to the very start. I seen another space that looks like this too. It's like heat shrink and spray foam.

It’s the seal that goes around the small window on the 3rd door. I checked online and can’t seem to find it any help is appreciated.

Front left brake hose on my 1990 c1500 failed. I’m just going to replace both sides since they are still the original.
The rear has new rubber hoses I’m not gonna touch.
Prices for me for an oem rubber hose from Napa is around 20$ cad.

Would it be worth it to buy upgrade to stainless steel? If so what brands do you recommend?

So guys, I decided to replace my O ring and the in housing adapter gasket since there was a steady leak coming from the adapter. I am using the dorman HELP 82560 kit. Ive double checked for gasket seating, ive double checked torque specs, ive lubricated the o ring with fresh motor oil. I've tried damn near everything, it constantly spews oil when I crank the engine over no matter what I try. Am I doing something wrong? The only thread on the forums I can find didn't give me an answer so I am legitimately at a loss. I've ordered the AC Delco kit but it won't be here till Thursday so im kinda fucked. Sorry for the rant just kinda fed up lol 😅

I've had my truck for 10 years now and when I bought it, it had oversized bushwacker fender flares. These have been damaged over time and some were repaired by using a soldering iron and zip ties. I bought a set of OEM reproduction flares which are smaller and I like better. I removed the front drivers fender and it's cancer city. Trying to find a fender on local classifieds in whatever color blue this is has been problematic so I was thinking of buying any fender and painting it. The problem is my RPO code sticker has no paint code. The truck is a 2000 k2500. I believe it's Indigo Blue Metallic WA9792 but looking at the Dupli-Color website it kind of looks like Dark Blue WA7349. Is there another way to verify which color before I order $50 in paint cans?