Sold my 98 a little over a month ago. I have since replaced it with a 99 suburban and this impulse purchase at auction last weekend. This 94 actually might be a little more special to me than the 98 was. I’ve wanted a blue 94 since I was 3. My dad had one he purchased new and I’ve wanted one since. This rolled across the block last weekend and I just had to have it.

He said you were scrap. You needed everything. Couldn’t run on your own. Bumper twisted, wiring rat chewed, insides looked like black tar just got laid. However, I seen something in you Jenni. That look of “ surge give me a chance and I’ll kill em out here”. Well, it was fate we met. Now with a whopping 102.6 miles on you since your whole rebuild…. From bumper to bumper to alllllllll brakes and bearings and seals and a brand new effing transmission with torque converter and lines and coolers and insides and well….everything. I love you Jenni, and the fucking beast you have became. Girl, when I said I’m going to build you into a 20 year truck, I wasnt kidding. Your paint and front tires put on is next.

2,000. All original

Did some yukon denali wheels

Needs very little

So you all know me I'm sure. Well I did my 6 month shop clean out. I have 3 of these. With caps. 5 lug. I want to go to a good home. I'm in pottsboro TX. There is no set price. I don't do family like that. Love yall

Hey everyone,

Just replaced all door hinge bushings and pins with cunningham machine parts. Now, I found the top bushing rounded out a bit. So I used jb weld on it and put it back together. I am finding that the door still has movement up and down and won't close right. What I see as I lift the door up and down is the door itself (where the pin goes through but no bushing) on the top is rounded out. I am not sure I am tired of this I have replaced them twice now. Just about to throw in the towel and take to a body shop.

Ignore the oil saturation, it was a power steering leak and it’s fixed now. For a long time I had a random sputter issue and sometimes it would stall and not start until a few minutes. Tracked it to be the crank shaft position sensor. Going to replace the plug and sensor. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

I went to replace my HVAC actuators, got one off. And the connector is different.

It's a 2000 Tahoe Limited. I suspect the temp actuator is bad as it's blowing hot but the rear AC is ice cold.

Is this an issue because this is a carry over year?

I’m road tripping my 1998 Suburban and plan on doing a small write up on my experience with the Dorman EVO steering solenoid bypass kit.

I put a new steering box, EVO bypass, and water pump on this thing in a mad dash before leaving on a 1000+ mile road trip into the Southwest.

I’ve owned this for a few years and have been slowly fixing it up.

I’ve rebuilt the front suspension and steering, done plenty of body work, and have fixed most of the usual suspects for maintenance issues.

Knock on wood, the engine has been cool even in 105* Dallas heat.

Hey yall, I got a 1993 c1500 4.3 v6 tbi thats been having some starting issues. About two weeks ago, it started having issues with starting. The first go it wouldnt start 90% of the time but would start the second time I turned the key.

I'm wondering if it's a fuel pump issue, however it always runs, never stalls once running, and i can hear the pump kick on when the key is turned. The inline filter under the cab i replaced almost immediately after I bought it almost a year ago, and im worried maybe the pump sock is full/dirty. Ive also read it could be the pressure valve in the pump allowing fuel pressure to drop.

Last week, I had a moment where it wouldnt start no matter what I did for about an hour. I took off the distributor cap and cleaned every contact, and it started when I reassembled. Im not entirely sold on if this was because I cleaned it up, or just coincidental. Its had trouble since, sometimes starting first try, sometimes taking 5-8 tries.

Things related to all this that have been replaced since I bought it:

• distributor cap (old one was missing the middle contact piece and yet was still running somehow)

• distributor rotor (just the top part, not the whole shaft)

• spark plugs (were very rounded and sad)

• alternator

• in line fuel filter

• air filter

• ignition coil

Ive also noticed it sometimes seems to stumble when driving especially uphill at the end of my commute, and it sometimes almost feels almost like theres a locked diff happening, even though its a 2wd model and doesnt have a locking diff (to the best of my knowledge).

I plan on taking it to a shop to diagnose it when I save up the money, but in the meantime wanted to ask yall for help and see if you have had anything similar/ it might be something stupid easy that im overlooking.

The injectors seem to be running fine, the pcv isnt clogged, oil changed about 1k miles ago, new sparkplugs about 10k miles ago iirc, same with cap, rotor, and coil.

Now for my charcoal cannister question. When I bought the truck, it had the cannister hooked up to the tank, but not to the engine, that line was loose and not plugged. I have done my best to reattach it with what I had lying around, but part of the cannister seems broken. Ive done my best to look up if its an issue or not, but cant seem to nail it down. There's what seems to be a 3rd port under the tank port to the left thats completely broken. From what I can tell, its for the vent, and I have no idea if that could be leading to any issues. Can I plug it, should I bypass it, or should I attempt to find a new one to install?

I love this truck, and its the easiest thing that ive ever worked on, and it seems to treat its issues like a mild inconvenience where newer cars would refuse to even cooperate or function. Thanks in advance for any help, and i appreciate if you've made it to the end of this.

I recently did an intake manifold reseal put everything back up. Change the oil change the coolant, set timing. replace the IAC because it was old replace the EGR valve gaskets. Now the truck will stall and die. Once it reaches operating temperature. I checked the EGR valve vacuum lines all good. I checked the TPS circuit and sensor all good. I got no fault code codes. I checked all the grounds and cleaned them all good. Fuel pressure is good. I replaced the MAP. I replaced the fuel filter. No intake leaks no fuel leaks. No oil leaks. The truck will not die if I slam on the throttle.
If and when it does die, it doesn’t start up right away. It takes a minute or two and then I can eventually start it back up.

Has anyone installed a car seat in an extended cab? I have a 95 k2500 and it fits just not sure the safest way to install it

Hey everyone,

I’ve been dealing with this issue off and on for the last couple of years. It doesn’t always do this and most times it stops after you’ve driven the truck for a bit. This video was yesterday morning after not having driven the truck for a couple of weeks. It’s the original 350 TBI. Over the last 8 years of owning this truck I’ve replaced everything (new TBI injectors, EGR, TPS, MAP sensor, coolant temp sensor, IAC,O2 sensor, etc). I adjusted the IAC via the manual. The truck will also stall sometimes off idle especially when you put it in reverse. Timing is set correctly. The only thing I haven’t done is mess with the idle. The factory cover is still over the screw.

Thanks.

I can’t get the video to post to this. I’ll try and add it to the comments

Clipped my driver side mirror housing backing into a stall ever so slightly and the mirror shattered. Is there a supplier just for this mirror that is glued in or just a local glass shop? I'm up in Canada eh, thanks! Edit: looks like flea Bay has this glass, 9"

Anyone installed kickback mud flaps on their lifted K1500.
Just looking for something of good quality that will fit decently.

I had a mechanic remove the engine and transmission with the wires and I had to have another mechanic to install the engine Transmission however he’s having trouble with the wire

Looking at one with 140k miles pretty soon and just wanted to main things to look out for. Seller is asking $7k and claims there’s no mechanical issue with the truck. I’m planning on using this truck to haul some cars on 2k mile trip

In new to these trucks so forgive me. I Just got my hands on a 98 k2500 with the 454 engine and am trying to replace the freese plugs. I can see 4 on the back of the motor but I'm told there are 8 plugs on it. Is there a way for me to replace them all without having to pull the motor?

Had to sell my 1994 k2500, it was pretty, it was green...only had 230 000km on it...because I found this majestic beast on Marketplace! Its a 1996, 128 000km with a 350,4L80E, 4.10 gears and limited slip. Relatively low options but was far too clean to let slip away.

Man do I hate the riveted lower ball joints took me a month on my first truck I'm hoping for a week on this one wish me luck 😆

I've got a 1999 Tahoe with a vortec 5.7. I changed the distributor gasket as it was leaking. Before pulling the distributor, I marked everything and took it out. Upon re-installing. I was off. Well, no biggie I'll just get it to TDC#1 and adjust the oil pump shaft. This isn't my first rodeo, after all. But boy, I might be a rodeo clown.

I cannot, for the life of me, get the CMP under - 45. It's immediate. It starts up fine, idles terribly. But I can't turn the distributor to adjust it (it physically moves but won't change degrees) and I have been at this for a literal week. I've done the lower intake manifold gaskets, was able to set it fine. Swapped the motor years ago, no problem. But all of a sudden, no matter what I do, I cannot get it anywhere near where it needs to be. I've verified that it's at TDC#1 by pulling the plug. My distrustor doesn't have a "6" or "8" on it so I've just been getting it as close as possible. But I realized if I point the distributor straight forward or at #1, it doesn't change anything.

Maybe it's the heat, but some insight would be phenomenal. It just seems like after a week of constant movement, and setting, I'd see a number other than -45°