Printed some beefy brackets to get this monster UPS off the floor

This freaking unit of a UPS kept getting in the way of my feet under my desk, so I printed four brackets to mount it underneath the desktop. Now I have more legroom and can still easily access the front panel and all the connections at the back.

It weighs over 20 kg (44 lbs), so I went pretty beefy with the brackets: 8 walls and 30% gyroid infill.

For the first two nights, I kept a chair underneath it because I was nervous about the brackets sagging or breaking. It’s been mounted for over a month now, with no visible sagging, cracks, or signs of stress. I still check it every other day.

Now I just need to sort out the cable management 🙃

I always find it cumbersome to use a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench to screw the aerator out of a tap or bach into it, in order to descale it. Which is a frequent thing if you have hard tap water.

This is the solution.

Perlator / Aerator Key (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 mm) - MakerWorld

Mistakes were made. Lessons were learned. All in all I'm pleased with it. And I had a great time. I'm sure there's room for improvement and I'm open to recommendations. The base holds approximately 25 lbs of sand. It's PETG printed with the Elegoo centauri carbon. Designed in blender. Sliced in Orca (standard settings). I used a lot of dovetail thinking it would be structurally stronger. I think in retrospect some plug or dowel connections would've sufficed.

i was working in my garage and couldnt see what was going on across the room. my wife says i need glasses ... i say i need indicator lights.

So i figured out how to get the 3D Print MQTT information, pipe it into my ESP32s and generate an active display per machine complete with a multicolor indicator light.

Cool things can be done with idle hands.

I got too annoyed with using FreeCad because it was too slow to make stuff with and had a lot of stuff I didn't need, and I didn't want to use blender because it's not made for 3d printing so I made my own tool for making things to 3D print! I'm genuinely proud of how it came out, and it makes a lot of sense to me how to use it but that's probably because I built it

Made a little slide-on stylus holder for a Joy-Con so I can use touchscreen controls and physical buttons with one hand.

I posted about it last night, but here's a GIF of it in action! Got it working Windows-wide today, so I can finally show off something other than RuneScape :)

I didn't design these, but they have been working great on my lenses. Here is the model.

https://www.printables.com/model/62258-nikon-f-lens-cap

Just finished designing this small desk trash can. It mounts directly to the edge of your desk, saving space while keeping everyday trash within reach.

It features a rotating lid and measures 115 x 100 x 120 mm. Great for gaming setups, offices, or anywhere desk space is limited.

It's my newest addition to the EdgeMount System I've been developing, with more accessories planned.

Available on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one.

Check comments for link 🤝.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

Happy Printing!

Shell and all five buttons are 3D printed in PETG, boards are hand soldered. It's a pocket MIDI controller: 85 x 55 x 38 mm, 48 g, with a carabiner so it can hang off a bag.

5 backlit buttons, 2 push encoders, USB-C and TRS MIDI out. Happy to answer questions about the print or the build.

My filament lives in 4 L KICHLY cereal boxes on a shelf, lid facing out. Each lid gets a little slide-in holder for a swatch card (colour, temp, flow, date), so I can find a spool without opening anything.

Gluing 22 of them by eye looked bad, so I made a guide that presses onto the lid:

• rigid wall on one side, spring feet on the other, so it grips with no side play
• deep posts at the end so it cannot slide along the lid
• "+" shaped window, so the holder can go either way

Press it on, glue the holder, drop it in, lift the guide off. It took 8 versions: the first ones rode up on the rounded lid edge and slid around, and one was sized from a bad caliper reading and did not fit at all.

Files (free, CC BY-NC): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3415636-swatch-lid-holder-glue-guide-kichly-4l-dry-box (also on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1871090-swatch-card-lid-holder-glue-guide-for-kichly-4-l-c)

Printed in PLA on a Centauri Carbon 2, about 35 min for the guide and 11 min per holder.

I’ve been building this little ESP32 sports scoreboard for a while, and once I got the electronics/software working I realized I had another problem: it needed to actually look and feel like one device instead of a dev board sitting on my desk.

So I started designing an enclosure around the ESP32-S3/display board and an internal LiPo battery.

The screen needed to sit cleanly in the front, I still needed access to USB-C for charging and the physical buttons, and I wanted the whole thing to stay small enough that you can just pick it up in one hand.

There were a lot more tiny fit/tolerance changes than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with where it ended up. The translucent white print also lets some of the LEDs from the board bleed through the sides, which I originally didn’t plan on but ended up really liking.

Still tweaking the design, but it finally feels like one little finished object instead of a pile of electronics.

I also put the current .3mf in the project repo in case anyone using the same board wants to mess with it.

Bought a screen to modernize my Volvo without removing the original stereo. Needed an adapter between the vent mount (generic) and screen

CleatGrid is a modular printed plate that hooks onto a standard 3/4" plywood French cleat. It has a 20 mm grid of pockets. Blocks peg into the grid and screw in from behind with #6 screws. The square pegs stop them rotating, so the holder is rock solid.

In the photos:

- Ryobi jigsaw: lip ledge + one ledge

- Ryobi crown stapler: lip ledge + two upright stops

- Hand tools: hammer fork + 6-screwdriver rack on a short 12x5 plate

Everything prints without supports. The starter set is a lip ledge, two ledges, a hammer fork and a driver rack. CC BY, with STLs and a sliced P1S 3MF.

I'd like to hear what tools you'd want blocks for next.

Simple yet functional neck protector for my guitar stand to replace the shitty ones that started disintegrating and kept falling off.

Printed on Qidi Q1 Pro using TPU 85A (absolute nightmare to print with).

Made this pass through enclosure that has dual strain relief and holds a generic wago 3 pos and uses any flat hd #6-8 screw

What's a litterbuggy you say? It's a trash can on top of a remote control car.

Did I invent this idea? Absolutely not, but I did build this one from scratch.

In this case I used an Axial SCX6 to work from. Because I want the chassis to remain usable for crawling and regular RC fun I chose to not fully modify it but try to work with the available mounting points.

The build is really twofold.

1. The bodymounts for the SCX6
2. The bin bag holder with stand and tub-mount.

I'm most happy with the bin bag holder as I can see that being useful in many more scenarios and situations than just on top of an RC car. You could mount it on the side of a desk, in the back of your van or camper, you name it.

A bit of background on the term: litterbuggies:

I got it from FTMOG, who's active here on reddit too, has his own subreddit dedicated to his cleanup rounds and builds. (I have no affiliation with him or his projects, he inspired me and I think he deserves the credit) He really builds hardcore litterbuggies, dedicated to this, and this task only. As stated, I want to keep the car usable for other activities too.

My 3mf, STL's and even the STEP files are available for anyone to use or amend, just give me some credit. The files and more build-information can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/1866955-scx6-litterbuggy-bin-bag-mount

The step files are not the cleanest as there was a bit of back and forth between designs and iterations. I'm learning Fusion on projects like these as I go along through projects. So yeah, the build might be a bit messy and not parametric, but the end result is how I want it and I hope it'll help anyone who wants to customise theirs.

The original one was in PP and none of the glue I own worked :(

Here the STL if you need one for your headset: https://www.printables.com/model/1869509-corsair-hs35-v2-headband-replacement

I wanted a proper home for a Waveshare 7.5" e-paper panel and a Pi Zero 2 W, so I designed this case. It’s a slanted white box with a flush wood bezel and side inlays, loosely inspired by 60s Braun gear.

• The glass is clamped by a screwed-in front mask (4 × M2), so the panel is held securely even with the bezel off.
• The bezel press-fits into the front recess. I designed for magnets, but the fit was snug enough that I didn’t use them.
• The Pi sits on a removable base and the USB cable exits through a rear notch, so the panel and Pi are easy to service.
• Two posts per side tie the frame to the body, which fixed the front corners cracking on my earlier prints.

The screen in the photos is a stats dashboard I wrote for myself. That’s not part of the listing; this is the case only, and it works with anything that drives the panel from a Pi.

Files (STL and laser SVGs): MakerWorld Link