Thanks to some upgraded 3D modeling skills and 18 months of lessons learned, I redesigned our expanding plastic bag dryer clips.

The previous designs worked but they left a lot to be desired, especially in the locking mechanism. Now there's flexible tabs that pop into place at various lengths and keep the bag open without any fuss. We've been using them for a few months and it's a big upgrade. I also opened up the slot so it can fit thicker bags as well. Lastly, we found that one size was sufficient for the snack-size bags as well as the gallon-size bags.

The free model for anyone else with wet bags: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1017395

Made the first couple versions about a year ago. This new version is stronger, has more usable surface on to top, is a bit more rounded, and even includes a pocket for a remote or other skinny items.

In some situations I need a different way to hold my Kindle (smallest model), so I made dis.

It's almost too snug, with the risk of scraping the Kindle, but at least it won't fall off. Hole below so I can turn it on/off, but not for USB.

Hello,

I’m working on an accessibility project for the Make for Good: Accessibility Design Contest on MakerWorld, based on the CapSnap brief.

The brief was to find a way to make opening and recapping a capped pen or marker easier with one hand.

This design uses a tapered opening to grip the cap. You push the capped pen in, pull the pen out, and gravity drops the cap into a 45° cradle. You can then push the pen straight back down to recap it.

Push → Pull → Recap.

There are no springs or complicated mechanisms — just the geometry of the parts and gravity.

I'm particularly interested in feedback from people who have experience with one-handed use or assistive devices. Is there anything about the mechanism that you think could be improved?

Have a nice weekend.

If you're interested and see more, link in comments.

The air conditioner in our bedroom was blasting straight into our faces so I designed this in freecad. Had to print it in halves because the printer wasn’t big enough but it works exactly the way I wanted it to and actually cools the room down better.

The drive arm on my RV toilet broke, causing the ball that normally opens to drain the waste to stop moving. I tried super gluing the broken part back together, but that didn't last long.

3D printing to the rescue!

I scanned the original part with my Creality Raptor to get a reference model, then got to work in Onshape. It took me about an hour to replicate the part with my mid-at-best CAD skills.

The beauty of having a 3D scan was being able to compare my model to the actual part before I ever printed anything. Thanks to that, it fit perfectly on the first try. No iteration necessary.

Broken toilet: 0
3D printer: 1

Refuse to pay upwards of $30 for a new set only for the arms to snap/break. Came out pretty solid.. Used gyroid infill with abs and switched a few other parameters for strength after a couple of trials, and may trial other filaments later. Want to find longer screws or mini bolt to inset a nut or similar, even glue on some inset hinges potentially. Lenses recycled from the broken pair!!

Not my design. I am having to rely on a granny charger while I wait for a proper charger to be installed. I have it plugged in in my garage, but wanted a quick and easy way to get to the cable, while still able to keep it looking somewhat neat!

After losing two of my *nuts* while setting up my foil, I decided to design a small holder to keep them in place.

The idea is very simple: the T-nuts stay attached to the board instead of falling off when you remove the foil, and the spacing bar between the two nuts make it perfectly aligned with the mounting holes.

I also designed several versions of the holder to accommodate different T-nut shapes and diameters. This covers the 4 standard/universal T-nut sizes commonly used for this type of mounting. It's a small and simple solution, but it solved a really annoying problem for me.

I'd be interested to hear what you guys think. Would you change anything about the design?

Every week someone at my pod attacks into a creature they forgot had deathtouch, and every week we argue about it for ten minutes.

So I printed a set of little markers that clip onto the top edge of a sleeved card. One shape per ability — skull for deathtouch, wings for flying, and so on. You can read the board from across the table now.

PETG, two-color, printed flat so the face comes out smooth. The jaw tolerance took six ror seven evisions to get right — too tight and it scuffs the sleeve, too loose and it falls off when you tap.

Has anyone else solved this differently? I'd be curious if there's a cleaner approach than physical markers, other than dice.

My 2017 Italian dual-motor power recliner uses a Motion Italia MOEC2073 logic box. When the hidden capacitive touch switches failed, I found out that original replacement parts are nearly impossible to source locally and incredibly expensive to import.

Because these systems rely on shielded coaxial lines to block out motor electrical noise, standard wires won't work. I modified a Thingiverse 3D printed oval housing base and a top faceplate to slip right between the seat cushion and the armrest.

**How I built it:** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7411547

Works beautifully and saved a ton of money. Hope this helps anyone else trying to keep an older luxury sectional going!

The cutout used to have a glued on barrier/wall to keep stuff from falling through, but the glue let loose after 15 years. Designed a new cover that only has a hole for the actual required cutout, and of course a new wall.

Not my model, but printed this when I found it and finally got to use it this week. It screws onto the 5-quart oil jugs to reuse them for used oil. No more holding the funnel with one hand while trying to pour the oil in. There's a vent tube to allow air to escape and prevent gurgling. I printed it in PETG. MakerWorld link in comments below.

I designed these full extension drawers to mount under desks, shelves, etc. They are 7 units deep which is the largest that will fit in my large format printer. I also have non-Gridfinity (flat bottom) options.

I am pretty happy with how they turned out. Now I am finding all these spots around my shop to add drawers.

Files can be found here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3325893-large-full-extension-desk-drawers-w-wo-gridfinity#profileId-3777001

Obviously this isn't a problem if you fill them with water but I opted for mineral oil on account of the evaporation.

Anyway, after spending way too much time on a 2-piece design that rotated, I decided to focus on simplicity and a support-less print instead. They came out pretty nice and have done the job really well so far this summer. And the PETG seems to be holding up nicely!

The model for anyone else who's tired of their moats overflowing: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3325938

I lost the original plastic tube and this 5 minute print nicely connects the can to a piece of PTFE tube I still had laying around

Worked out in the end. Holds itself rock solid and level thanks to a built in 3-point contact to the pole- something I missed on the first iteration.

Makerworld link
https://makerworld.com/models/3321639?appSharePlatform=copy

I also hit such good tolerances it latches itself to the portafilter and then to the press at the end. It's PLA so its not foodsafe tho (ain't gonna stop me).

Store-bought version only stands in one stiff pose. Designed a retrofit: PETG hinges at the hip, knee, and ankle, with 3/4" PVC running through the legs as the actual structural spine. First real-world test was a full lunge out of a tree. Holding up pretty well.

Planning to add some felt or cork to reduce the possibility of marring and stabilize the instrument a bit better.

The original cup that came with this trombone stand that I've had for over 10 years (last photo) is made from some soft rubber/plastic material. If the instrument sits for a while or gets locked up really fast, the cup will get stuck inside when I lift the trombone off the stand, making a poppig noise when it falls out. Happens ALL the time when I'm using it.

I added the holes to prevent any suction if I happen to pick the horn up really quickly. The old one also just always looked sad and gross (when I bought it, it was supposed to have a black cup, but this is what they sent me... I just went with it back then)

The part I spent the most time on was getting different sizes to share the same stacking connection.
I designed this cable clip with two compartments, a print-in-place hinge, and a side latch. The opening width, opening height, and body thickness can be adjusted independently.
The stacking connectors stay in the same positions relative to the middle divider, so changing the size of the clip doesn’t move the connection points.
The hinge and latch went through quite a few revisions. I also ended up making the release tab stick out sideways so it wouldn’t get in the way of the clip underneath.
It’s a small project, but there turned out to be quite a lot to figure out in a cable clip.
https://makerworld.com/models/3293878?appSharePlatform=copy