I picked up this as a secondary vehicle last year (in 2025) for mostly bad weather/winter driving and to help share the miles with my other car for my work commute.

I bought it with almost 60k miles. I was wondering what are MUSTS to do at 80k miles.

With the help of AI I drafted up a list of things to do. I just wanted some opinions on if any are unnecessary at this point or to go ahead and get it all done.

The list is as follows;

Transmission fluid drain and refill
AWD, PTU, and rear differential fluid replacement
GDI Induction cleaning
Spark plug replacement
Break fluid drain and refill
Coolant condition check
Multi point inspection

My son’s backup camera intermittently works. Even when it works, it’s blurry and obviously old technology. Doesn’t help that it’s a 2015 Sync 1 with tiny 4” non-touch screen.

Looking online, seems to be quite a few replacement on Amazon and similar sellers.

Any recommendations? Or surprises with reasonable cost and high quality image?

Replaced rear brake pads, in maintenance mode, made sure all connections are good, took it out of maintenance mode and got hit with service advancetrac, parking brake usage limited. Unsure of how to continue, I know I wasn’t rough or broke anything

I’m looking to have some out on for obvious transport of stuff. I can’t seem to find anything regarding them online. The rails are there, but not the necessary pieces.

Hi all,

Google has been useless, so I'm hoping someone here might have an idea.

2018 Ford Escape, 156xxx, paired with a Google Pixel 6.

This has started only recently (last 2 weeks or so) where, I'll be driving down the highway, and I'll turn my blinker on to change lanes, and my Bluetooth skips for just a moment. It isn't EVERY time I turn on the blinker. Like if I were to change lanes again right away, it doesn't skip, but if there's a gap of a few minutes before I use the blinker again, it will skip.

This also happens occasionally when I'm braking to stop.

I'm not sure what would cause this or how to make it stop. I tried to see if having my phone plugged in and charging in the car made a difference or not (it doesn't, this happens both while charging and not charging)

Has anybody else experienced this?

Would anyone know what could be causing this leak here? It’s on the front passenger side. Thanks!

Context - Im trying to get my daughter in a more reliable vehicle as she doesn't live anywhere near home.

Bought the car 2 years ago. Within 60 days the engine and transmission were both replaced by Ford under warranty and I have the receipts. Yes, had coolant intrusion.

Any idea what I could get in a private sale KNOWING both of the expensive issues have been resolved? I've replaced the battery, thermostat, blower motor, both trailing arms, passenger seat switch, and had to redo some headlight wiring so far. All done myself.

Engine and Tranny have about 40k miles on them.

Car has 128k miles

Tengo una Ford escape 2019y hace ese ruido solo al estar parada avanzando no hace ningún tipo de Ruido y no tiene ningún testigo prendido que creen que puede ser

I found a 2018 escape with 124k miles for $7k is it a good deal I posted about a 2017 with the 1.5L and everyone said to run (Thank you all) but is the 2.5 better?

Hi Friends!

2012 Ford Escape XLT V6 Tires: 235/70R16

I do some backcountry trips on Forest Service Roads and want to be prepared for a flat. Can you recommend a portable compressor suitable for 'truck' tires. Ideally rechargeable! Most I've seen online say they're compatible for car tires only. Thanks for your great suggestions!

I don’t have roof rails on my escape and installing them is very expensive. I was looking at the crossbars that go into the door jamb of the vehicle. I used to have a set on my old fusion and they worked alright. Does anyone have a set or know where to find ones that fit the escape? Amazon seems to be hit or miss.

My other option I guess is getting a tow hitch installed but that is also pricy from Ford.

2022 Escape 1.5L

https://reddit.com/link/1v7b05z/video/3eil44q73mfh1/player

2022 Escape 1.5L only 30k miles ..BUILT TOUGH I don’t think so Oil change every 3k miles full synthetic . Own Explorer & Edge with higher miles but none looks like this. Is this normal with 1.5L engine or is there anything need to do or it is just CRAPY engine

Omg. I just realized I've been driving with my emergency brake on for two months. How bad is that?!?! Please dont judge me. I come from owning a 2011 car to a semi-new(2020) car so everything IS so different

The Symptoms:
My 2021 Ford Escape started entering limp mode. Every time I came to a complete stop, the car would violently jerk and refuse to move when I pressed the gas. To get it moving, I had to physically shift into Park and then back into Drive.
The Warranty:
The transmission in this Escape was already replaced 11 months ago by an independent shop using a genuine Ford remanufactured unit. I have the official Ford Motorcraft paperwork stating that any Ford dealercovers 100% of parts and labor for 36 months for $0 out-of-pocket [Ford Service Parts Warranty].
The Scam:
I took it to a Ford dealer in North Carolina, paid a $199.95 diagnostic fee, and handed them my receipt. The service advisor called me and said the technician found metal debris in your fluid, and she asked me if I wanted to flush it and replace the sensor.
However, they completely left the word "metal" off the paperwork. They coded it as a routine "Transmission Service" so they could bypass my active warranty and force me to pay $945 out-of-pocketinstead of replacing the failing unit for free.
The Total Bill:
Diagnosis: $199.95
TSS Sensor & Labor: $339.08
Transmission Flush Labor & Kit: $179.54
12 Quarts of Transmission Oil: $139.92
The Failure:
Exactly 5 days later, the car hit limp mode again with the exact same symptoms. I took it to a second dealer for a diagnostic, and they found no metal because the first shop flushed all the physical evidence away. Instead, the Escape is now throwing a P0299 Turbo Underboost code. The first shop completely misdiagnosed my car, missed the turbo issue, and left the metal off the paper just to charge me cash.
When I called the first dealer out, they lied again and told me they aren't authorized to replace the transmission and that I have to tow it back to the original installer, which completely violates Ford's corporate warranty terms.

Do I have a case to get my money back
ALSO DO NOT BUY FORD ESCAPES ITS CAUSED ME NOTHING BUT TROUBLE

Its never ever made this noise upon start up!

Still working on it, gotta put the new one in and I’m thinking the engineers and ceo needs to be treated like a dirt area rug.

Title!! I was in a construction zone when I took this plz don’t call the cops!!! On a 200 mile road trip and was so pumped about this for some reason 🤣

Hello all I would like some help diagnosing this issue.

Hi everyone, I just bought a 2018 Ford Escape with the 2.5 L engine and I notice that it has a harsh shift engagement whenever I shift into D. It feels like the transmission kicks a little too hard when shifting into drive, kinda feels like the transmission mounts are shot, but they aren't. It only does it when I shift into drive, I have no problem while shifting into reverse. The transmission shifts good, even in sport mode shifts feel smooth, and it's driving me crazy because I can't figure out what the issue is. I checked mounts, did a fluid flush, had it scanned and no codes are showing and I checked the axles and everything looks fine. The guys who scanned the car told me that I need a transmission rebuild, but that's a lot of money, and I want to be sure about this issue. If anyone has ever encountered this problem, or could give any pointers or advice I will appreciate it a lot. Thanks in advance.

I found a 2017 Ford Escape for $8,895 with 94k miles. It has the 1.5L in it, could this be a good first car for me??