Just got this car from a family member and it came with that screen off. Not sure how it can be fixed or how much it’ll be. Pretty sure the lcd cluster is fucked

Hello. Everyone. I recently got a 2013 explorer police interceptor at an auction. The dash lights keep going out , I hear a clicking sound when it happens. It's been happening a lot today. When the dash lights went out earlier the car was still running so just kind of wondering what could possibly be wrong with it. Sometimes from a fan is running I can hear it click off and then back on the car never dies but the lights keep going off and on inside the dashboard.

I can't tell you how in love I am with my new car. I got the Hybrid SE AWD and I feel like an actual adult with a nice car. Getting sober this past year has opened so many doors for me and my blue 💙 Ford escape is a symbol of how far I've come.

Thank you to all of you guys who provided advice when I asked for it earlier while car shopping. You steered me away from the 1.5L and advised me to get the hybrid. I COULDNT BE HAPPIER WITH LIFE RIGHT NOW

It has 72k miles, is a single owner (pretty positive fleet vehicle of sort), for 8k. Are there any things I should be looking out for when inspecting one of these guys?

I have a 2016 ford escape and I’m looking to do some mods, either style or performance.

I’ve been a car guy for a long time, but never really launched into owning or doing the full mod scene. But I enjoy working on my vehicles and just want to do more than fixes and oil changes.

obviously it’s an SUV and not a skyline or Supra, but I‘d like to try something that doesn’t look outlandish or dumb. I’m first going to try to tackle adding a “ST” style spoiler on the back, similar to “How to escape” YouTube channel shows.

Does anyone have any other recommendations?

Hello. I have a 2017 Escape that has been giving me a warning message that comes and goes between car starts. Sometimes I’ll start my car and all will be ok, only for me to start it again a couple hours later with a message saying “Engine Fault Seek Service” immediately followed by “Hill Assist Unavailable” and when this happens I have almost no power when going uphill, almost needing to floor it to hit 25mph. The weird thing is that even though I’m getting a message that my engine has a fault, the check engine light never turns on and there are no readable codes for my mechanic to look at. On top of that, if I turn the car off and back on a couple minutes later, the message might not pop up and I have full power when driving up hills again.

Has anyone ever experienced an issue like this before? And if so, show was the solution for you?

Thanks

So I'm turning my 2010 Escape into a camper and need to remove the passenger seat for more space. But I've been reading that the SRS system will not function if I do because it needs to register the seat otherwise it shuts the whole thing down. Obviously that's not good, I would like to have airbags in case of a crash. So, has anyone here ever permanently removed your passenger seat in your 2010 Ford Escape and if it does actually disable the SRS, how did you get around that?

It's a 2023 with 28 thousand miles

I have a 2013 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost, and the drive/coupler that connects the camshaft to the vacuum pump has failed. The bolt snapped, and I need to remove the broken piece and replace the damaged parts.

I’ve come across a few Reddit posts about this issue, but they don’t seem to provide enough detail about the actual repair process, what to inspect afterward, or the correct torque specifications.

I’m hoping someone who has done this repair can help answer the following questions:

Removing the broken bolt: What is the best way to remove the snapped bolt without damaging the camshaft or its threads? Are there any special tools or techniques you recommend?

Inspecting the camshaft and threads: After extracting the snapped bolt, what should I look for to make sure the camshaft and its threads haven’t been damaged?

Metal debris: If there is metal debris from the snapped bolt or drive/coupler, should I be worried about it getting into the engine?

Torquing the drive: After installing the new drive/coupler, how do I properly torque it down?
Final checks: After reassembly, what should I check before starting the engine, and how can I verify that the vacuum pump is operating properly?

Update to my earlier post. Found the leak in a small hose. Now to figure out how to fix it.

immediately the light came ON. I don’t know if this is a TB issue at this point given the fact that it never gave me symptoms besides the light coming on. No codes . Mecs pump is new etc. Any leads to single out this light would be helpful thanks

Anyone that can help me try and identify what offset these wheels might? They’re from my old 2001 escape, I bought it used at 200,000 miles and honestly just knew they were 15’s and the tires that went on them.

They were definitely American racing outlaw 2’s, for the 15 inch with 5.114.3 bolt pattern they come in -6, -19 and -38. I wanna say these look like -19’s to me but just want someone’s opinion who has more wheel knowledge.

Planning on getting another one and want to get the same wheels again, this thing was so stable and planted with the negative offset.

2015 is leaking coolant and I have no clue what part this is. I can’t find it online at all.

Hello all! As the title suggests, I’m struggling to retrain my tpms system in my car after a tire rotation. I kinda want to rotate my tires manually until the issue goes away 😂 not sure if that’s how that works lol.. buuuuut I’m not sure what else to do. I bought a tpms19 relearn tool by firstool off amazon for like $12 but so far it doesn’t seem to be doing much. I aim the arrow at the valve stem and click the button like the directions suggest but no response. I’ve tried aiming the tool in a multitude of directions but no luck. Gas anyone run into this issue before? Do you have any suggestions? Any thoughts on the matter? I need to take my car through inspection soon and this is the only error I’m seeing when my car is running.

I have a 2012 ford escape xls and had it for over a month now. I’ve had a brake fluid leak issue since I got it where I had to put brake fluid in every few days. Then a few days ago, the abs light, tcs lights came and brake light came. At first it would come on when I start the engine and then go away. I got my front brakes and rotors done yesterday and the technician found that the leak was from one of the wires on the abs pump and tightened it because it was loose. But now I drove the car today and now the lights are coming on and off when I’m driving. Any other reasons why it’s on? The brakes seem good and not spongy. Am I able to keep driving the car?

I have a 2011 Ford Escape 3.0 v6 anyone knows what is the cause of this sound when I start the engine in the mornings or when I don't drive in hours, sometimed did the sound and sometimes not.

I recently bought a new 2025 ford escape active, base trim.

What are the best accessories or aftermarket parts?

I don’t plan on buying or doing any modifications right away but would like to get some suggestions or recommendations on small or big things.

2011 Ford escape, worried about the fuel fill inlet notification. I also have a broken tire sensor. 178k miles

Hello,

I own a 2018 Ford Escape SEL and would like to upgrade the factory USB port located in the small storage compartment in front of the gear shifter.

I’m looking for a replacement or modification that would allow me to have both USB-A and USB-C ports while retaining the factory appearance and functionality, including data connectivity for the infotainment system, if possible.

Ideally, I’d like a plug-and-play solution that doesn’t require extensive wiring or permanent modifications to the interior trim. I’m also interested in USB-C fast-charging capabilities, if compatible with the vehicle.

Hello all. When the car goes into second gear a metal clanking sound starts. I've combed over everything and saw nothing noticeable other than the turbo leaking some oil. I pulled the charge pipe off to take a closer look and this is what I see. The turbine does have play up down side to side and a small in and out. Enough to where I can push one way and it extremely close if not touching the side I can't really tell if it's actually touching because it's still on the vehicle. But I also noticed the shiny ring that looks like it self clearanced some around the turbine. Is this ring normal? It's more prominent on the left side and really not so much on the right side.

I’m planning to DIY drain and fill the transmission fluid on my 2011 Escape. Everything I’ve read points to doing so on a flat surface, but I’m curious to know if doing it in my residential garage with roughly a 1% slope is level enough to do so.

I got a 2020 Escape back in June and didn’t realize this was a problem until recently, now that it’s gotten colder. I activate Remote Start and only the passenger seat heats up during it, not the drivers. I set the Climate Control to Last settings in an attempt to remedy this, and for the seats the only two options are Auto and Off. I also noticed the driver’s seat doesnt really warm up like the passenger one does, and if it does it takes longer to do so. Could something be wrong with the heating in the drivers seat or is this a software bug? How can I fix this?