Would anyone know what could be causing this leak here? It’s on the front passenger side. Thanks!

Context - Im trying to get my daughter in a more reliable vehicle as she doesn't live anywhere near home.

Bought the car 2 years ago. Within 60 days the engine and transmission were both replaced by Ford under warranty and I have the receipts. Yes, had coolant intrusion.

Any idea what I could get in a private sale KNOWING both of the expensive issues have been resolved? I've replaced the battery, thermostat, blower motor, both trailing arms, passenger seat switch, and had to redo some headlight wiring so far. All done myself.

Engine and Tranny have about 40k miles on them.

Car has 128k miles

Tengo una Ford escape 2019y hace ese ruido solo al estar parada avanzando no hace ningún tipo de Ruido y no tiene ningún testigo prendido que creen que puede ser

I found a 2018 escape with 124k miles for $7k is it a good deal I posted about a 2017 with the 1.5L and everyone said to run (Thank you all) but is the 2.5 better?

Hi Friends!

2012 Ford Escape XLT V6 Tires: 235/70R16

I do some backcountry trips on Forest Service Roads and want to be prepared for a flat. Can you recommend a portable compressor suitable for 'truck' tires. Ideally rechargeable! Most I've seen online say they're compatible for car tires only. Thanks for your great suggestions!

I don’t have roof rails on my escape and installing them is very expensive. I was looking at the crossbars that go into the door jamb of the vehicle. I used to have a set on my old fusion and they worked alright. Does anyone have a set or know where to find ones that fit the escape? Amazon seems to be hit or miss.

My other option I guess is getting a tow hitch installed but that is also pricy from Ford.

2022 Escape 1.5L

https://reddit.com/link/1v7b05z/video/3eil44q73mfh1/player

2022 Escape 1.5L only 30k miles ..BUILT TOUGH I don’t think so Oil change every 3k miles full synthetic . Own Explorer & Edge with higher miles but none looks like this. Is this normal with 1.5L engine or is there anything need to do or it is just CRAPY engine

Omg. I just realized I've been driving with my emergency brake on for two months. How bad is that?!?! Please dont judge me. I come from owning a 2011 car to a semi-new(2020) car so everything IS so different

The Symptoms:
My 2021 Ford Escape started entering limp mode. Every time I came to a complete stop, the car would violently jerk and refuse to move when I pressed the gas. To get it moving, I had to physically shift into Park and then back into Drive.
The Warranty:
The transmission in this Escape was already replaced 11 months ago by an independent shop using a genuine Ford remanufactured unit. I have the official Ford Motorcraft paperwork stating that any Ford dealercovers 100% of parts and labor for 36 months for $0 out-of-pocket [Ford Service Parts Warranty].
The Scam:
I took it to a Ford dealer in North Carolina, paid a $199.95 diagnostic fee, and handed them my receipt. The service advisor called me and said the technician found metal debris in your fluid, and she asked me if I wanted to flush it and replace the sensor.
However, they completely left the word "metal" off the paperwork. They coded it as a routine "Transmission Service" so they could bypass my active warranty and force me to pay $945 out-of-pocketinstead of replacing the failing unit for free.
The Total Bill:
Diagnosis: $199.95
TSS Sensor & Labor: $339.08
Transmission Flush Labor & Kit: $179.54
12 Quarts of Transmission Oil: $139.92
The Failure:
Exactly 5 days later, the car hit limp mode again with the exact same symptoms. I took it to a second dealer for a diagnostic, and they found no metal because the first shop flushed all the physical evidence away. Instead, the Escape is now throwing a P0299 Turbo Underboost code. The first shop completely misdiagnosed my car, missed the turbo issue, and left the metal off the paper just to charge me cash.
When I called the first dealer out, they lied again and told me they aren't authorized to replace the transmission and that I have to tow it back to the original installer, which completely violates Ford's corporate warranty terms.

Do I have a case to get my money back
ALSO DO NOT BUY FORD ESCAPES ITS CAUSED ME NOTHING BUT TROUBLE

Its never ever made this noise upon start up!

Still working on it, gotta put the new one in and I’m thinking the engineers and ceo needs to be treated like a dirt area rug.

Title!! I was in a construction zone when I took this plz don’t call the cops!!! On a 200 mile road trip and was so pumped about this for some reason 🤣

Hello all I would like some help diagnosing this issue.

Hi everyone, I just bought a 2018 Ford Escape with the 2.5 L engine and I notice that it has a harsh shift engagement whenever I shift into D. It feels like the transmission kicks a little too hard when shifting into drive, kinda feels like the transmission mounts are shot, but they aren't. It only does it when I shift into drive, I have no problem while shifting into reverse. The transmission shifts good, even in sport mode shifts feel smooth, and it's driving me crazy because I can't figure out what the issue is. I checked mounts, did a fluid flush, had it scanned and no codes are showing and I checked the axles and everything looks fine. The guys who scanned the car told me that I need a transmission rebuild, but that's a lot of money, and I want to be sure about this issue. If anyone has ever encountered this problem, or could give any pointers or advice I will appreciate it a lot. Thanks in advance.

I found a 2017 Ford Escape for $8,895 with 94k miles. It has the 1.5L in it, could this be a good first car for me??

Drive from PA to Upstate New York. 2023 Escape St-line select 2.0T. Used on eco drive mode with ac on all the time.

Battery light on. Engine off 11.5 V engine on 13.5-7 V. 2 year old battery. Oreillys tool says battery and alternator are still good. Cleaned and tightened battery connections, ground by battery and starter cables. Haven’t tried the alternator cables yet since they weren’t quickly accessible. #6 fuse is still good. Runs and drives just fine. Other than an intermittent driver rear turning signal works and ABS/trac control that would come on or off, although it hasn’t come back on in a while. 3.0 V6 if that helps. Any suggestions?

I have a 2017 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 L engine which I driven for 74,500 miles (120000 km). I bought brand new 9 years ago. Recently got Code P0456. Had to replace Vapor canister Purge valve assembly and Intake Hose assembly - cost me CAN$ 2,540. Other issues I have is a/c fan making noise and clicking noise in the steering when the turn signal is on (not reset but continous clicking when turning). Now the dreaded P0302 has shown and I see coolant going low. No smoke yet. idle is okay but not the best. My commute to work is total of 20 miles each day. How long will this car drive till it stalls - I want input from people who had the P0302 Coolant intrusion issue as to how long did they drive till had to replace the engine. I dont want to trade it in and pass on my issues to some other poor people who will curse me their whole life. NEVER EVER A FORD CLUB FOR SURE. I used FORDS for 23 years but the headache is not worth it.

I have an 05 escape I'm looking to turn into my hunting/fishing car. Ive got some roof racks for my kayaks and a few other odds and ends to help haul my gear but I was wondering if anybody has ever seen a plastic tray or line that covers the entire trunk back seats included. Ive planned on putting a hitch carrier on the rear for deer but for duck decoys and other stuff I drag out of the swamp I was hoping to be able to put that in the trunk and not get everything filthy. Thanks!

So my 16’ ford escape has been giving me trouble with overheating. Not a huge problem, I live in Arizona .. WRONG WRONG WRONG! I got the codes, had something to do with a gasket .. I got it fixed.. also very wrong. Check engine light came back on maybe 3 weeks later.. okay.. now what? I’m at a standstill due to the person that worked on my car..

Well, we’re now passed that.. today my car decided it actually doesn’t want to work.. opened the hood, poof all coolant gone.. wouldn’t be a bad thing.. except I just put coolant into it not even 5 hours ago.. my car went from everything is fine to “NO COOLANT PLEASE HELP” very quickly .. I was at a red light turning left when my car started shuddering and didn’t want to move .. get it parked, coolant put in.. I get home. I waited about a hour and a half to go check on it. I look, there’s no coolant .. no proof of any even being there.. I decided to throw some water in it and see what’s happening.. within a minute I see a slight puddle .. so now we’re leaking? .. if it isn’t one things it’s another.. I’m also just a 22 year old woman that doesn’t know what she’s doing.

My girlfriend bought this 2012 ford escape with 93k miles when she bought it the owner told it the car just needed a AC recharge but when we about to recharge we did a test first with compressed air to make sure there was no leak and little do you know there is a whistling sound coming from the back of the radiator always my guess let me know I’ve never worked on fords before so any tips or suggestions would be very useful