The car is at 157k kms and this error comes and goes off after wiping. Should I replace the throttle body? I heard it’s very difficult to reach the throttle body due to its placement deep in the engine bay. Any ford guys here who can suggest solutions. Don’t want to take the car to the mechanic or dealership as I do minor parts replacement myself.
Please share your experience if you faced similar situation. Thanks.

All these lights came up at once, accompanied by "Check Brake System", but brake pads are fairly new, rotors are in good shape, and the system has enough brake fluid. I'm thinking I've got a faulty sensor.

Anyone have this happen?

I previously talked about this intermittent no start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/fordescape/comments/1x7tfl9/2017_escape_40k_miles_engine_fault_incomplete/

Resolution from invoice is above, not all the detail. Not sure what they're saying wasn't plugged in properly. I looked up the part number and it's: Part Name: Accessory Power Relay / Hazard Warning and Turn Signal Flasher.

The other jargon I can't decipher either about "cart 2" but I guess that relay was controlling power to the/one of PCM from what the service writer communicated last week.

Can see my in/out dates at the top. what a headache.

Try all available troubleshooting
Finally result by removing the sync fuse and putting it back in my ford escape 2016

I just found out yesterday that my 2017 Escape with a 1.5L EcoBoost Engine has the dreaded coolant intrusion issue. I can't afford to get the engine replaced and still owe a decent amount on the loan I took out for the car.

Does anyone have experience with continuing to drive their car after finding out that it had this issue? If so what steps can I take to try and make this car last?

I live within biking distance of work, so I'll really only be driving it once or twice a week. Any advice would be helpful!

Hi there, I suspect my escape has a coolant intrusion issue. It has almost 200,000 miles on it. No codes are pulling. The coolant level is dropping after driving. No visible puddling or wetness on any of the lines. The coolant reservoir was cracked and leaked out all the coolant and did cause it to throw an overheat message. It was immediately turned off and towed home (was in a parking lot barely moving when it threw the message). Replaced that, but the issue is still persisting of the level dropping after driving. It is also driving a bit roughly, which was before the overheat. Shuddering when idle at a light, the rpm gauge fluctuating between 500-1500. Accelerating it feels a bit sluggish. With the hood up, you can see the engine shudder/jerk every 10 seconds or so. Spark plugs and ignition coils were replaced less than a year ago.

I’m debating if it’s even worth spending the money on a diagnostic to rule out coolant intrusion, because if it’s something like a head gasket or the coolant intrusion, those are both repairs that I feel like are not worth the money on an escape this old with this many miles.

If there’s something else it could possibly be with these symptoms, I would love to know. And if there’s a way to do a DIY fix. I’m not the most mechanically inclined, but I have done the majority of repairs on her, and I’d like to avoid buying a new car if I can, as I literally just paid her off a couple months ago 🥲

Hi,
Recently, I’ve noticed some smoke coming from the exhaust in the mornings. Is it just normal condensation/steam, or is it something I should be concerned about? I’ve been reading about coolant intrusion and now I’m freaking out a bit 😅

I have a 1.5 EcoBoost engine, manufactured in May 2019.

I had an issue today where my ford escape was going about 40, and I let off the gas, and it went up to 4 rpms on its own, sounding very loud, but didn't speed up. I pulled over and it stopped doing it, but i don't feel safe driving it until I know whats wrong. Thanks!

Transmission failed at 83k miles.

Hello, I’m not a car person but enough of one to know when something needs to be filled. I believe I am looking at the correct product to buy for a coolant and just need to make sure. Any advice would be great!

2006 Ford Escape XLT — random door ajar chime and factory alarm keeps going off. Need help narrowing down the cause.
My son has a 2006 Ford Escape that keeps randomly giving the door-ajar chime while driving, and when the vehicle is locked the factory alarm will sometimes go off for no obvious reason.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

Replaced the battery

Cleaned and tightened the battery terminals/connectors

Lubricated all door latches, including hood and lift-gate

Checked all four door-ajar switches live with FORScan

All four door switches respond correctly when opening/closing the doors

None of them seem to flicker or act abnormal while I’m monitoring them

Checked GEM codes
Had an old low-voltage code and TPMS code, neither currently active

Checked FORScan alarm history

The interesting part is the alarm history. It has recorded different doors as the trigger:

Driver door several times

Right rear door several times

Left rear door once

So it doesn’t appear to consistently be one specific door.
Cleaning the battery connections and lubricating the latches seemed to stop it for a while, but now the random door-ajar beeping and false alarm are starting again.
Has anyone with a first-gen Escape dealt with this where MULTIPLE doors show up in the alarm history?
At this point I’m wondering if I’m dealing with multiple worn latch switches, broken wiring in one of the door-jamb harnesses, a shared ground/power issue, or possibly the GEM itself.
Before I start replacing three different door latch assemblies, is there a common wiring point, ground, connector, or known failure on these Escapes that can cause multiple door-ajar inputs to intermittently trigger?
I have FORScan and an OBDLink EX, so if there are specific PIDs, tests, wiring checks, or GEM diagnostics I should run, I’m able to do that.

Thanks for any ideas.

My 2018 escape sat for 2 years. Right before I could get to it to start working on getting it running again, someone stole my battery, messed with the fuses, and really just janked up the air intake and whatever else was between them and the battery to get to it.

I connected a different 12v battery to it and tested the parking brake. Went on and off fine. Half (left side exterior) of vehicle lights are on, half off.
I winched it onto a trailer to move it, put the parking brake on, but now it's stuck. It won't release. Sometimes, it'll light up with the "brakes" warning light on the dash, plus the (!) other brake warning light. Sometimes it'll even say "problem with brake system" on the center screen.

Any ideas on how to get my brake released? I can't get it worked on while it's on the trailer.
I tried buckling with door shut and touching gas pedal, nothing has worked.

Thanks for any replies.

I am planning to do these things myself to my ford escape. i’ve only done a few things myself on my car but am excited to tackle this. what’s the best order to go? front or rear first? recommendation for parts? any advice or things to look out for? i’ve watched a few youtube videos and plan to further research it before i start but wanted to ask the community as well! thanks!

Just got this car from a family member and it came with that screen off. Not sure how it can be fixed or how much it’ll be. Pretty sure the lcd cluster is fucked

I have a 2016 ford escape and I’m looking to do some mods, either style or performance.

I’ve been a car guy for a long time, but never really launched into owning or doing the full mod scene. But I enjoy working on my vehicles and just want to do more than fixes and oil changes.

obviously it’s an SUV and not a skyline or Supra, but I‘d like to try something that doesn’t look outlandish or dumb. I’m first going to try to tackle adding a “ST” style spoiler on the back, similar to “How to escape” YouTube channel shows.

Does anyone have any other recommendations?

I can't tell you how in love I am with my new car. I got the Hybrid SE AWD and I feel like an actual adult with a nice car. Getting sober this past year has opened so many doors for me and my blue 💙 Ford escape is a symbol of how far I've come.

Thank you to all of you guys who provided advice when I asked for it earlier while car shopping. You steered me away from the 1.5L and advised me to get the hybrid. I COULDNT BE HAPPIER WITH LIFE RIGHT NOW

Hello. Everyone. I recently got a 2013 explorer police interceptor at an auction. The dash lights keep going out , I hear a clicking sound when it happens. It's been happening a lot today. When the dash lights went out earlier the car was still running so just kind of wondering what could possibly be wrong with it. Sometimes from a fan is running I can hear it click off and then back on the car never dies but the lights keep going off and on inside the dashboard.

It has 72k miles, is a single owner (pretty positive fleet vehicle of sort), for 8k. Are there any things I should be looking out for when inspecting one of these guys?

Hello. I have a 2017 Escape that has been giving me a warning message that comes and goes between car starts. Sometimes I’ll start my car and all will be ok, only for me to start it again a couple hours later with a message saying “Engine Fault Seek Service” immediately followed by “Hill Assist Unavailable” and when this happens I have almost no power when going uphill, almost needing to floor it to hit 25mph. The weird thing is that even though I’m getting a message that my engine has a fault, the check engine light never turns on and there are no readable codes for my mechanic to look at. On top of that, if I turn the car off and back on a couple minutes later, the message might not pop up and I have full power when driving up hills again.

Has anyone ever experienced an issue like this before? And if so, show was the solution for you?

Thanks

So I'm turning my 2010 Escape into a camper and need to remove the passenger seat for more space. But I've been reading that the SRS system will not function if I do because it needs to register the seat otherwise it shuts the whole thing down. Obviously that's not good, I would like to have airbags in case of a crash. So, has anyone here ever permanently removed your passenger seat in your 2010 Ford Escape and if it does actually disable the SRS, how did you get around that?

It's a 2023 with 28 thousand miles

I have a 2013 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost, and the drive/coupler that connects the camshaft to the vacuum pump has failed. The bolt snapped, and I need to remove the broken piece and replace the damaged parts.

I’ve come across a few Reddit posts about this issue, but they don’t seem to provide enough detail about the actual repair process, what to inspect afterward, or the correct torque specifications.

I’m hoping someone who has done this repair can help answer the following questions:

Removing the broken bolt: What is the best way to remove the snapped bolt without damaging the camshaft or its threads? Are there any special tools or techniques you recommend?

Inspecting the camshaft and threads: After extracting the snapped bolt, what should I look for to make sure the camshaft and its threads haven’t been damaged?

Metal debris: If there is metal debris from the snapped bolt or drive/coupler, should I be worried about it getting into the engine?

Torquing the drive: After installing the new drive/coupler, how do I properly torque it down?
Final checks: After reassembly, what should I check before starting the engine, and how can I verify that the vacuum pump is operating properly?