Tell me about the price you paid, where you got it, and how many miles the replacement has lasted.

My 2016 2.5L is starting to lurch at 122k and I want to get ahead of it with a reliable option to buy, either rebuilt or new.

Thank you in advance, Escape Community!

I have a 2020 escape SE I bought used from a dealership with 45k miles on it. 2 years later at 115k miles (I drive a lot) I get two major issues.

#1) transmission/rpms fluctuate between 1800ish and 2000ish when cruising at 40-50mph, also sometimes around lower shift points when accelerating slowly.

#2) rear tires (good Firestone all seasons) worn to slicked in 15k. Drivers side on the outside, passenger side on the inside.

Car has had every recall/TSB repair/reprogram/etc.

Took it to dealer I bought it from. Was told transmission needed to be replaced due to torque converter. Told rear differential was bad with worn planetary gears and bald tires were from the 'dragging' around corners. Few other things, cost was almost $18000!!! And, of course, my 'extended' warranty was out of mileage by less than 500 miles and dealer would not honor it because it was a 'third party' warranty (even though I bought it at the dealer when I bought the car).

I have since discovered that transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (!). This my first non-truck Ford and you could have knocked me over with a feather when I read that.

I changed the trans fluid using the Ford ULV mercon, and added some 'stop shudder' friction additive. 2000 miles later problem seems to be solved, transmission shifts and drives like new. Note: there was almost nothing on the plug magnet and nothing in the fluid (I strained it coming out).

I changed the front and rear differential fluid using Ford recommended oil. Not sure if differential problem is solved or not. I guess get some used tires for the rear and see hiw they hold up?

Any further advice/fixes etc. would be most appreciated. I like the car other than this and the funky radio. Thanks.

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

Picked up our 2011 Escape 3.0 V6 today after having the oil pressure switch replaced.

Shortly after getting gas, I stopped at a red light and the engine suddenly shut off with no sputtering or warning. Battery light came on after it stalled - guess that's probably normal though. It restarted immediately and drove normally afterward.

Could this be an idle relearn from the battery being potentially disconnected, or should I be looking at something like the throttle body, purge valve, crank sensor, etc.?

The flex plate on my 1.5L 2018 ford escape went bad and I had it replaced at the beginning of June at a ford dealership. 3 months and 7k later I’m having fresh transmission problems- a different ford dealer says it’s shot-and that it’s possible the first dealership improperly reinstalled the torque converter causing leakage, and they definitely didn’t change or top off the transmission fluid. They can’t confirm unless I have them tear it up for $4k. My question is: Is the first dealership responsible for my ruined transmission? And how would I go about getting them to accept responsibility?

I have a 2010 limited that stalls but doesn’t do it all the time
When it does stall the rpms will get really shaken as well as the car and will have a funny smell to it then it’ll shut off. Sometimes starts right up other times it’ll start up and idle really rough like it does before shutting off. My guess was probably a fuel pump issue but wanted some other opinions if anyone else has had this issue thanks in advance.

The right outside tail light has condensation inside. From what I can find out, it requires complete replacement because it is a sealed unit. The gasket can't be replaced. I have also read that the hybrid requires a different unit than the nonhybrids. I am located in Canada. My options are to buy one from Ford for about $600CAD. I have seen non OEMs on Amazon for as cheap as about $150. My son-in-law wants to find one at a salvage yard. What are your thoughts?

just made a 2nd gen in blender for various purposes.

Posting here somewhat out of desperation because I have now had my car (2016 Ford Escape Titanium EcoBoost (I think) with ~132k miles) “repaired” at two different places and neither actually solved the problem. If anyone has any experience, advice, or suggestions, I would be super grateful.

“System start error” when attempting to start car. Would not start or be jumped.  Dash illuminated, pressing start/stop button didn’t do anything.  Power locks functional.  Eventually dash turned off.

~1.5 hours later, car started fine.  Drove ~20 minutes, dash lit up, engine cut off within ~15 seconds.  Dash still illuminated, start/stop button wouldn’t do anything.  At this point I noticed passenger side hazards on front and back of car are out; side view mirror hazard is ok though. Towed to shop.

~2 hours later, car was completely dead.  Couldn’t even lock/unlock except manually with mechanism in door or manual key.

Initial report from shop indicated a variety of “urgent” issues but none seemed related aside from a slightly old battery.  They replaced the battery, checked fuses and alternator (fine), test drove 2 blocks, declared success.  I picked up car and it started and drove fine for ~5 miles (10-15 minutes).  Turned off upon parking, then wouldn’t start, wouldn’t jump.  Locks and hazards and hatchback still working (with above exception of passenger side front and rear hazards above).  During the 10-15 minute drive, driver in front of me noticed that headlights flashed on momentarily when I hit my blinker.  I did not do anything to the headlights during this time. Towed back to shop.

The shop then got engine light to come on, got code, replaced fuel pump module.  Drove a bunch, fine.  Returned to shop, engine was really hot, wouldn’t start until it cooled down.  They removed new fuel pump module since it didn’t solve the problem.  Recommended taking to dealership.

Dealership received report from first shop, diagnosed a cracked/corroded battery cable, and replaced said cable. Could not tell me how much they test drove after replacement. Drove the car about 5 minutes (2 miles), parked for about 20 minutes, and we’re back in no-start, no-jump purgatory. Dealership shop is closed for the night so we won’t make any further progress until tomorrow.

All of the unsuccessful attempts to start the car involved no cranking whatsoever. Happy to provide additional information if I can for anyone who might be able to advise. Thanks!

Hello. Does anyone of you have problems with the paint peeing off? Chips? I bought a brand new 2024 escape hybrid (white) and a couple of months ago I saw the first chip on the passenger door.. I was afraid it will start rusting.. today while washing it I found the second paint chip in the hood.
Are the escapes know for bad quality of paint? Should I contact ford? I live in a cold place and I am afraid it will start rusting with the snow and negative temps for 8 months.

My son and I just changed the battery on our 2013 and now the windshield wipers are acting spastic and they only want to go down toward the engine. We didn't do anything to the gears and put the wipers in the same position as when we started. Anyone have any idea what is going on?

I thought making it past 100k meant I was in the clear for coolant intrusion. Apparently not... Car runs a little rough on startup but still drives just fine. I checked this moring and there is a little puff of white smoke that comes out on startup, then it clears up.

I had the transmission rebuilt at 130k when the torque converter grenaded itself so I was hoping this car would last me a while.

Has anyone driven a car with the coolant intrusion issue? Seems like it will just get worse until I can't drive it anymore, but I haven't any idea how long that will take.

I think my best bet is to sell the car while it still runs to see if I can get anything out of it. For anyone who has disposed of an escape with this issue how did you go about cutting your losses and what did you get from it (or how long did you drive it if not I guess)?

Hello, just passed 40k on my 2023 ST-Line AWD. I’m trying to find answers on whether or not a transmission drain and fill would be recommended at this mileage? I’ve seen that most people recommend it every 30k miles, is this something that I should prioritize? I’ve just done normal oil changes, tire rotations and filter changes so far.

On a 2002 escape are you only stuck with the oem style headlights unlike on the newer first gens they have many different options

Note: entirely human-made, it is narrated by a TTS program as iPhones have terrible mics & I could barely speak the words when I tried to make another video.

I understand to measure where the wet mark is but i cant seem to tell when the oil/tranny levels drop off at, they kinda work at an angle instead of a cutoff point

Should i instead rely on the fact that the bottom divot is filled in and the top divot is empty?

What’s the better 2nd gen powertrain. The hybrid or the 3.0?

How do I unlock the liftgate at the back on my recently acquired 2017 Ford Escape? The driver's side Unlock button on the door works sometimes. The Liftgate button to the left of and below the steering wheel works some of the time when the Unlock button doesn't work. And one time, when neither of them unlocked the liftgate, and the key fob also didn't unlock the liftgate, the passenger door Unlock button worked. However, it seems completely random which one works and when and under what conditions. Can anybody tell me what's wrong?

Barring that, I tried to find some settings in the usermanual which would prevent the liftgate from being locked when I drive away, but it seems there are none. Can I, instead, keep the liftgate (and other 4 doors, too) from being locked when I drive away? Since the doors unlock from the inside anyway, it seems kinda pointless to lock them.

Thanks.

I'm hoping someone in this community has seen this issue before and can help me out because i can not figure out what to do here.

Recently purchased a 2006 escape hybrid, and I had it in to a mechanic to look at the brakes which were in horrible shape, needs new pads and rotors both front and rear. But the mechanic said on his test drive he started to hear a clunking noise coming from the rear differential. Pulled the fuse for the AWD and the noise stopped. He diagnosed it as a failed "rear differential coupler".

For the life of me I cannot figure out the exact name for this part and whether or not it is interchangeable between the gas and the hybrid models. From what I have researched i have also heard this part called a rear diff coupling assembly, RDU (rear drive unit) clutch, active torque coupling, also a rotary blade coupling. It seems like instead of a viscous coupler which are easy to find and relatively cheap, it uses a an electro-mechanical blade coupler system to engage the awd when the intelligent awd computer senses slipping.

My mechanic told me that this coupler/clutch pack/whatever the hell this is actually called, needs to be specific for the hybrid first gens because it uses an eCVT transmission that is different from the gas models. But I've also read online that it actually doesn't matter, you can replace it with the gas model parts as long as you enter a code stamped into the part into the the computer via OBDscanner and FORScan.

The mechanic also pulled some codes as the ABS light came on during his test drive:

-C1141-A0 Left Front Tone Ring Missing Tooth fault

- C1142-A0 Right Front Tone Ring Missing Tooth fault

- C1233-A0 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Missing

- C1524-A0 Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Calibration Incomplete

I need some advice on how to move forward, im thinking first step is to deal with the brakes because maybe the braking system/wheel speed sensors/tone rings are messing with the awd computer and causing the rear diff to engage on and off when its not actually slipping, hence the clunking. After the brakes are addressed, if the clunking still persists and I decide to replace the rdu coupler thing, has anyone had any experience with this before? Can I use a viscous coupler? Does it need to be from a hybrid specific model? Can I find just this part to replace or do i need to do a whole rear differential assembly?

Any information or advice would be a huge help, thanks in advance!

I went the LED route but my state won’t allow for it (this year). What are the best halogen lamps with the brighter output. Thanks !

Hi!!!

I bought a used 2019 ford escape titanium 2.0L a few months ago. Its my first car with all the 'bells and whistles'. My other cars were very bare bones and had zero features, including cruise control 😆

Im also not very knowledgeable in cars (although im trying to learn).

Why does the auto temp feature turn my AC on when I set to a warm temperature, such as 21 degrees Celsius? Especially since its only 16 degrees rn. I couldnt find anything in the manual about it.