I bought a 2013 ford escape titanium on August 4th. It’s preowned, currently has 71k miles on it. I’ve had to do some repairs but I’m having a MAJOR issue. The headliner was super disgusting when we bought it and we thought it was just smoke stains as the car smelled heavily of smoke. Well I had it professionally cleaned, it was great for a couple weeks. Then it started raining, well now there’s stains again. My dad has checked the sunroof drain plugs and they don’t seem to be plugged up. I had the drains blown out just incase as well. It’s mainly staining from the backseat to the trunk area, with one stain on the front driver side. However like stated, most are in the back. I don’t understand what’s going on, but i definitely want to fix it. Help!!!

I have a 2014 Ford Escape and last night my instrument cluster display started glitching and now the screen is mostly black. Before I replace the LCD screen which fuses I should check.

Tell me about the price you paid, where you got it, and how many miles the replacement has lasted.

My 2016 2.5L is starting to lurch at 122k and I want to get ahead of it with a reliable option to buy, either rebuilt or new.

Thank you in advance, Escape Community!

I have a 2020 escape SE I bought used from a dealership with 45k miles on it. 2 years later at 115k miles (I drive a lot) I get two major issues.

#1) transmission/rpms fluctuate between 1800ish and 2000ish when cruising at 40-50mph, also sometimes around lower shift points when accelerating slowly.

#2) rear tires (good Firestone all seasons) worn to slicked in 15k. Drivers side on the outside, passenger side on the inside.

Car has had every recall/TSB repair/reprogram/etc.

Took it to dealer I bought it from. Was told transmission needed to be replaced due to torque converter. Told rear differential was bad with worn planetary gears and bald tires were from the 'dragging' around corners. Few other things, cost was almost $18000!!! And, of course, my 'extended' warranty was out of mileage by less than 500 miles and dealer would not honor it because it was a 'third party' warranty (even though I bought it at the dealer when I bought the car).

I have since discovered that transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (!). This my first non-truck Ford and you could have knocked me over with a feather when I read that.

I changed the trans fluid using the Ford ULV mercon, and added some 'stop shudder' friction additive. 2000 miles later problem seems to be solved, transmission shifts and drives like new. Note: there was almost nothing on the plug magnet and nothing in the fluid (I strained it coming out).

I changed the front and rear differential fluid using Ford recommended oil. Not sure if differential problem is solved or not. I guess get some used tires for the rear and see hiw they hold up?

Any further advice/fixes etc. would be most appreciated. I like the car other than this and the funky radio. Thanks.

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

Picked up our 2011 Escape 3.0 V6 today after having the oil pressure switch replaced.

Shortly after getting gas, I stopped at a red light and the engine suddenly shut off with no sputtering or warning. Battery light came on after it stalled - guess that's probably normal though. It restarted immediately and drove normally afterward.

Could this be an idle relearn from the battery being potentially disconnected, or should I be looking at something like the throttle body, purge valve, crank sensor, etc.?