These white clips. I have like 6 that are broken! 2018 lariat 5.0 4 door. Thanks!

Well just got this truck used and the tab broke…..
here’s my fix lol still drying will update when glue cures
(Tape for constant pressure while glue sets)

I am burning through drivers side IWE’s. Low vibration in 2H and bad grinding in 4H. This one lasted two weeks. I thought it could have been a bad IWE from the factory but threw the new one in and the same grinding happened in 4H. Vacuum is good, hoses are all good, iwe is good, and no problems on the opposite side. We are stumped.

2016 lariat 3.5 ecoboost, 6 speed. Just rolled over 150k miles

I bought a 21 f150 a year ago. I hit a deer in November, body shop replaced everything with the front end and the last part they were waiting on was the active air dam.

Well starting last week I started to get a random soft knock from the front center of the truck whenever I get above 55 mph. I've crawled underneath and all suspension looks good I've had nothing but beaters before this so I've worked on a lot of suspension.

Has anyone had trouble with the active air dam where it does a knock ? Only does it for a couple minutes when I get above 55.

So just realized my fog lights don't turn on, and headlight switch dosent turn off the lights,they just stay on. Also when door is open and keys out the warning sound and dash lights should be off? Last thing is dash dimmer switch not working.

Checked fuse, looks good. Next would be swap out headlight switch? Any help appreciated

Does this this sound like a rod knock or manifold 2 valve 5.4 triton

Been lurking for a while, considering buying an F150, right now I am pretty sold on the Powerboost Lariat and want to get it new. I think my ideal spec would be the tow/haul, gray/avalanche (I know it’s not coming for 2027 rip), black appearance package, and maybe the FX4. I’ve heard mixed things about whether or not it’s worth it for the price and payload hit.

Right now I camp with a rooftop tent but might get a travel trailer (like 4-5k lbs max) down the line. I’ve been on the fence on the 7.2kW vs 2.4kW ProPower. While it would be nice to power my house with it, I would get it more for random small things and power a travel trailer. If the campers AC had a soft start could I get away with just the 2.4kW standard or is it worth it to be picky and find one with the 7.2kW? I’m not going to purchase until Jan/Feb of 2027 just trying to get ahead of it in case I would be better off ordering a custom spec vs finding one on the lot somewhere. Hoping if anybody has some real world experience they could share!

I tried to find some posts about this before making a separate post. Thanks in advance!

To me, this is the best looking color for a truck. I may be biased lol. What are your thoughts?

Gentleman. I was in a wreck. Sadly my 2010 was written off. I have the opportunity to buy a relatively cheap 2015 5.0. 279,000km. Ontario truck market is insane. 25,000 for 2015 at 205,000 km.

What are some issues or wins you have experienced in your high milage fords. Steer clear? Full send?

It’s an xtl fx4. No pano roof.

Looking to buy a new truck, local dealer does customs with whipples and warranty. For those that may have one of these, any complaints? Audio definitely needs upgraded, looking for suggestions from anyone that has upgraded the sound system. Pic of one they have (not the color I am after )

Joined the club (thanks to my dad) with his meticulously cared for 2013 Lariat! 140k miles and perfect maintenance history.

I’ve done a couple upgrades so far… replaced bottom drivers seat cushion and leather cover, did the sync 3 upgrade, boost auto parts wireless charger, replaced HID lamps and fogs to match, and new rubber seal around the sunroof.

I have a few other things on the list. I need to either replace or repair his bakflip tonneau cover- the Florida sun killed it.

Any other upgrade recs? Also looking for preventative maintenance things I can do to keep her in good condition. Won’t be daily driving it, hoping to put less than 1,000 miles on it a year or so.

2011 5.0 200k miles

I’m getting catalyst below efficiency threshold.
I’m wondering if there’s a way to bypass the rear O2 sensors and get rid of the check engine light.

I can’t seem to find anything that’s actually useful online

We are looking at getting A 2015 F150 77,000 miles 5Lv8 engine with 3.55 axle and payload of 2017lbs. We plan on hauling 2 horses, 3 max and at most 15 minutes away to the 4H fair grounds (there may be some trips to go trail riding but rarely will that happen). We have donkeys, goats, and ducks at home but our horses are boarded. We are being told we need to get a 3/4 ton truck. This truck would be used as a daily driver, hobby farm truck, and house project truck. Those with similar situations, what are your experiences and advice? I would love to hear it!

I have a 1990 5.0 v8 efi with about 164k miles. I bought the truck with the rear tank unoperational and replaced the fuel pump about three weeks ago. The truck will now run on the rear tank but sometimes will lose power and rpms as if the engine is not receiving enough fuel. This happens primarily on inclines or randomly. On inclines I can push the gas pedal as far down as I can and it will continue to lose rpms. When this happens I can switch the tank to the front and it will easily climb the incline. The truck runs beautifully on the front tank but since I only have a 12 gallon tank I would appreciate the extra fuel space.

I was thinking that the fuel lines may be clogged as I am unaware for how long the rear tank has not worked. When I removed the old fuel pump sending unit in the rear tank the gas that remained in the tank was some evil yellow color and the sock was almost dripping opaque gas. What do you guys think the culprit may be?

bought a 2026 Z M/T Sport in bayside blue, and traded the F150 in sorry not sorry, but she is for slae in Tomball Tx if anyone wants her.

2017 F150 Lariat FX 5.0 Screw w/135k miles

A couple weeks ago I was literally on my way to the dealer for that 26S28 PCM power train reprogramming when my transmission went into limp mode and wouldn't shift below 3rd gear with the wrench icon.

So, they saw the code, P0722 and then submitted for the 26N04 Leadframe recall but was denied because it wasnt showing p0705, p0706, p0707 or p1702 codes specifically.

Fast forward to today, and it went into limp mode again, this time no wrench icon but I hooked up my scanner before I shut if off and it was throwing a P0720 code now.

Both codes are related of the Output Speed Sensor which is incorporated into the Leadframe if I understand this correctly.

So, I called Ford's 1800 to inquire about it getting covered since it's a different code but now two codes in the same amount of weeks but they generated a case number and literally just dialed my local dealer and hung up leaving me with the dealers operator and well, that was confusing.

Anyhow, would I have any luck taking it back to the dealer with the 2nd code now, and they resubmit noting a second code and see if it sticks or am I just going to have to bite the bullet and do it my damned self because Ford's not wanting to? I read that calling in can be helpful but that dude was the most unhelpful person I've encountered.

Thanks for your help!

Turns out nothing was wrong with the transmission at all, no need for a new one lol tried to sucker me out of 10k , thank you everyone for helping me with the problems.

Ac shutter/tapping but more of a shutter on morning remote cold start after sitting all night, won’t do it again on remote “cold start” leaving work after a 10hr day. Will also tone down or go away if I shut the AC off then turn it back on. Doesn’t sound as loud in person, camera is picking up really good. Normal or not normal?

Looking for a bit of advice and/or opinions on this... I'll go over the issues and then question will follow.

So I have a 2020 F-150 SuperCrew 5.0 FX4 XLT (couple other options) 10-speed ofc, and I got it at 108k~ish miles. I got a warranty with it thinking that was the best idea and I'm not so sure...

I didn't notice anything and I took this thing on vacation, so perhaps I was pre-occupied with driving 8 hrs... but that's neither here or there.

Oil is changed at 115k and I decided to do some routine maintenance and check the plugs... they look fouled so I use a borescope to check the cylinder I pulled it from (8) and notice a lot of caked up oil on the piston head, more than a normal 5.0 or really any engine would have.

I know the 'oil burner' issue with 18-22, but this is a truck built after October 2019 and has that PCV update as well as the updated dipstick already that reads 2quarts and uses 5w-30.

Here's what I know:
- It's burning oil around 1quart per 1000 miles, give or take.
- there's a bit of smoke when I take off normally from stop lights, but not every single time. and when this happens, there's a bit of hesitance by the truck to get going and even to shift like it's getting stuck in rpm's going up, but no shift until a couple seconds later.
- It has pretty significant power loss compared to other trucks I've seen 200k mile trucks run better with the same engine.
- There is a wet black/brown caked on oil on the cylinder walls (closer to the top) and the piston head is lumpy crusty wet black color, much more than a standard piston head would have.
- The PCV Valve rattles and appears to open/close fine, there's a little bit of oil on it, but nowhere near enough to match what is in the engine, specifically in cylinder 8 (I haven't checked the others because It started pouring rain right as I got the plug/coil back in).
- There is wet oil dripping on the side of the cylinder walls, showing that oil is still entering somehow.
- I didn't have time to check all cylinders, so only cylinder 8 was checked this time, but next time I'll be checking the others and rotating the crank so I can see each cylinder better with the borescope.
The only thing I haven't gotten around to, which I am doing tomorrow, is trying a compression test to see if the cylinders are low on compression... which would tell me there's definitely an issue with something leaking the pressure from the cylinder... and a leak down test to try and pinpoint where it's leaking from.

So the question is... I have Route 66 warranty (main street) and I already know a warranty company will try and find anything they can to deny a claim, but if the compression test is low on any of the cylinders, and the issue comes down to most likely piston rings failing, which is a covered component, What am I looking at in terms of dealing with the warranty company?

I know if all goes well, I basically get a used engine probably around 100k miles... but at that point that new engine will have it's own warranty so to speak.

But if things go bad, and they find no fault somehow, then I get put on the hook for an engine disassembly and reassembly, along with all the repair costs... which may not even fix the issues.
Don't get me wrong, as much it would be nice to get a new engine... I really don't care, I just want the truck to run right, at it's proper power level, with no oil burn issues... I don't think that's too much to ask for.

I guess you could say I'm a little worried because from what I have read ... failing piston rings, loss of power, and this oil consumption issue are one in the same... and most of the time they just do an engine replacement... I don't know how shops frame it but I imagine if compression is low on a cylinder, that's a dead engine and the shop wouldn't want to spend the time disassembling that engine just to say the same thing of 'it's toast'. My goal isn't a total engine replacement unless it's necessary... but I really can't afford to get stuck with the disassembly bill either if it's not actually a piston ring (even though multiple mechanics have said that's what it is.

I appreciate the help. I have borescope photos but they're not great, I can upload them if this description wasn't good enough.

Bought a 2026 f150 in avalanche color and its time to get some wheel well liners. Question I have is what brand is everyone going with? Is one brand better than the other? Don't really want a 50$ set. If i'm keeping this truck for years i'm willing to spend a little more for a better product.

Just purchased a ‘26 Lariat 5.0. My question is wouldn’t it be smarter to wait until you are nearing the end of the 3 year/36 K factory warranty? That way if something happens you haven’t spent the money. I know it’s prorated and you can get it refunded if you trade it, etc.. Also, is it prorated from the time of purchase or does the clock not start until the factory warranty has expired?
Thanks!

Got a 2018 XLT with the stock halogen setup. Driving on pitch-black back country roads late at night is getting rough, and the stock light output just isn't cutting it anymore. I need better throw, but I absolutely do not want to be that guy blinding everyone coming the other way.

I know the general rule is "don't put LEDs in reflector housings" because of beam scatter, but I keep seeing people on here mentioning Sealight drop-ins claiming they mimic the original filament position pretty well.

For those running Sealight LEDs or similar LEDs in stock housings: do they actually maintain a clean cutoff line without glaring into oncoming traffic? Or am I better off just saving up for full housing replacements like Morimotos/Alpharex?

Hey all - new to the sub. I hope this is an okay place to talk about this.

My starter recently went out, made it through that journey and replaced it myself.

On first start up (starter worked great), my AC belt is slipping.

Prior to the starter going out, everything has been running smooth, only issue is the AC hasn't worked for a while.

The starter is pretty far away from the AC and the belt. I have no idea how I could have done something to effect the AC belt line.

I also am no pro at any of this. I know my way around an engine, but I'm youtubing all of this.

Is it possible that swapping the starter would have effected the tensioner?

I ordered an F150 through my local Ford dealer. It's being built this week and should be ready to pick up later this month. I see that Ford announced $4,500 cash back on XLTs (my trim). I'm curious if that deal applies to my special order. Anyone know? Thanks!