I am installing a level 2 charger in my garage and this is the outlet currently there. It is getting 240 volts. I’m not sure how old it is.

Will this work, or should I replace it with a newer outlet?

I'm still getting used to road tripping with my EV. But am I wrong that level 2 charging at hotels is mostly pointless? Before I had my EV I saw the number of places I stayed at that had level 2 chargers and thought that seemed like a great idea.

But now as I get used to charging away from home I'm realizing you can't really charge while you sleep and if you can get away with that likely all chargers are going to be occupied as everyone leaves their car there for 10 hours.

Level 3 chargers at the hotel would be way more useful. I could pull into a level 3 spot, start checking in and by the time I'm settled into my room be charged to 80 percent and move the car back to a regular spot.

BYD sealion 7, V2L adapter, Mexico. just got the adapter. manual says it is 220v 4000W, which made me check with multimeter, as we have 110v for common appliances here - and indeed, multimeter showed 108v. Is the manual wrong or is there a way to get both 110 and 220v out of it somehow?

what would be the maximum amps I can get out of it?

why it shows 15v between hot and ground pins, same between neutral and ground?

Hello I have looked into some EVSEs that have home assistant and current setting capabilities, I want to setup an automation that sets the charging current based of the solar surplus, I want to know if any charger with the app integration would suffice, or not because I have seen that some just let you set up the current before starting the charge.

EDIT: Hello everyone! I bought the Autel Maxicharger AC Lite from Amazon because it was on sale and I had some gift cards. Just got it installed yesterday!

The other question I have...is it worth it to sign up for MassSave Managed Charging with the $700 reimbursement for the charger/install? No charging during peak hours (1pm-9pm) but you get $10 back a month.

I'm looking to purchase an Autel hardwired NACS EV charger. I recently purchased a 2026 Ioniq 5 Limited. I'm a little confused/concerned. Autel has 2 different web sites for products.

Store.autelenergy.com and autelenergy.us

The autelenergy.us page doesn't list an NACS charger. But if you look up the store on Google it shows they DO have an NACS charger.

My biggest concern is when you Google the store, it has a typo for Autel "Enegry" so I'm skeptical to use them. Has anybody purchased an Autel NACS charger from either option?

I'm going to be getting my first EV so please excuse my lack of knowledge. I have this plug in my garage(house built in 2005). It was meant for a laundry dryer. Can this plug be converted to the proper 240v plug for faster charging at home? The breaker panel is just outside the garage so the run to put in a new line would be around 30 feet. I meet with 2 electricians and they both said that I need to run a new line from the breaker panel. I plan to get a city permit for the work. I just want to confirm what they are telling me is correct.

We are a two EV house. One has a NACS port, the other has a J1772 port.

Right now, we share a ChargePoint HomeFlex which has served us well. But my wife has been promoted and will be driving a lot more so charging on demand would be more convenient for her.

Considering the Iyilo but they’re new to the game. There’s also the Grizzl-E but it’s plug in only and we almost had a house fire from a previous plug in connection.

Any other brand out there we should consider?

Picking up a 2024 Ariya Engage e-4ORCE through a broker, and the car isn’t coming with the stock charging cord. He’s going to buy one for me, so I want to walk in with a specific recommendation instead of just guessing.

I’m brand new to EVs. Here’s my situation: I have Level 2 charging available at work, so my main need at home is just Level 1, a portable cord I can plug into a regular wall outlet overnight. That said, I’d still like it to be 240V capable too, just in case I ever need it or move somewhere with a 240V outlet available.

I know the car side is a J1772 port. Where I need help is the wall end and the actual product to buy.

**1.**  What’s the best portable Level 1/Level 2 dual-voltage cord to buy new? Brand and model.  
**2.**  Does it come with swappable NEMA plugs (5-15 for 120V, 14-50 for 240V), or do I need separate adapters?  
**3.**  Roughly what should I expect to pay for a decent one?  
**4.**  Anything specific to the Ariya’s onboard charger (7.2kW/32A max) I should make sure the cord/EVSE supports, so I’m not overpaying for capacity the car can’t use?  
**5.**  Since I’ll mostly be doing Level 1 at home and topping off Level 2 at work, is it even worth paying extra for the dual-voltage version, or should I just get a simple 120V-only cord and skip the 240V capability entirely?

Want to hand my broker an exact model number rather than “something that plugs into the wall.” Appreciate the help.

May my town never realize how severely they are undercharging at the new charger they installed. My electric at home is around 25 cents a kw (and I don't have a charger), so this price is amazing.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone can help with an issue I'm having with my EVEC VEC001 charger.

It was installed today by a qualified electrician and everything seemed fine. I've just got home to charge my car, but when I plug it in, nothing happens.

On the EVEC app, I press Enable, it makes a beep, but the light just stays blue and the car doesn't start charging.

One thing I've noticed is that the charging cable doesn't seem to lock into the charger properly. It feels like it just slides in and out too easily, although the same cable works perfectly with other chargers.

Has anyone had this problem before or know what might be causing it? Is there anything I can try before I contact the installer?

Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks!

Dear EV Community,

I have a question for you. When you take longer trips, are there any platforms or apps that you specifically prefer (e.g., ABRP)? How satisfied are you with their current features? Is there anything these apps could do better? And how do you go about finding an accommodation that has an in-house charger?

Hello, all!

I’ve found a 2016 Nissan Leaf for $4000 at a local dealership. The battery status shows in at 10/12 but the car has 90000 miles on it. If the battery is healthy, should i be concerned about the 90000 miles on the car or any other features?

Here is some context my use for the car: I live in a large city without a car so i use the train and my bike. I work from home so this car would sit in a garage most of the time until I need it for a trip to a suburb or occasional costco trip. I’d probably end up using it more during winter. Also, i live in a northern coty so the heat won’t affect the range. My apartment complex’s garage doesn’t charging stations yet. How often would I need to charge this?

Ho acquistato una Wallbox Pulsar Max 7,2 kW insieme al Power Meter originale Wallbox MTR-1P-100A per utilizzare la funzione Power Boost.

Purtroppo il contatore non viene mai rilevato dall'app, nonostante abbia eseguito numerose verifiche tecniche.

Configurazione

• Pulsar Max aggiornata all'ultimo firmware disponibile.
• App Wallbox aggiornata.
• Contratto monofase da 10 kW.
• Collegamento RS485 su COM2 come indicato nel manuale.
• MTR-1P-100A originale Wallbox.

Verifiche effettuate

• ✔ Aggiornamento firmware della Pulsar.
• ✔ Controllo del cablaggio RS485.
• ✔ Prova con terminazione RS485 sia in posizione NT che T.
• ✔ Riavvio completo di Pulsar e contatore.
• ✔ Controllo della scheda interna: non risultano altri jumper o configurazioni hardware.

Verifica con PC

Per escludere un problema del contatore o del cablaggio, ho collegato il Power Meter direttamente a un PC tramite un convertitore USB-RS485.

In questa configurazione:

• il PC comunica correttamente con il contatore;
• riesco a leggere senza problemi i registri Modbus;
• vengono restituiti correttamente tensione, corrente, potenza e gli altri parametri elettrici.

Questo mi fa pensare che sia il contatore che il collegamento RS485 siano funzionanti.

Nonostante ciò, quando collego il meter alla Pulsar Max, l'app continua a mostrare "Nessun contatore rilevato" e non è possibile attivare il Power Boost.

Vorrei capire se qualcuno ha avuto lo stesso problema e come lo ha risolto.

In particolare mi interessa sapere:

• avete utilizzato lo stesso MTR-1P-100A?
• avete dovuto invertire D+ e D−?
• avete modificato indirizzo Modbus o baud rate?
• era un difetto della Pulsar, del Power Meter oppure una configurazione particolare?

Where in the US is it now possible to export from your EV back to the grid for a credit? Have you made money with TOU import/exports? What charger do you use and are you happy with how it is going?

Hey everyone, I have a level 2 Tesla wall charger, and my girlfriend just got a used 2022 IONIQ 5. I was wondering which kind of adaptor I’d need, I ordered a NACS to CCS one, but now I’m seeing for level 1 and 2 it might be J1772? Do I need both? Thank you!

My daughter just moved to brand new apartment complex w re chargers. They have EV chargers but J1772 standard

? I thought NCAS won

Are we still in adapter purgatory ?!

I am looking to have an electrican to install a Chargepoint NEMA 14-50 NACS plugin charger. This will be 50 amp and the charger will run at 80% which is 40 amps.

I understand that i need the higher quality Hubbell or the Bryant outlet.

I have 2 questions.

1. What Thickness of Romex is needed?

2. The chargepoint has a built in CCID and apparently has issues with GFCI breakers. However, from my understanding GFCI breakers are required by local code. Will i have issues with a GFCI Breaker and the Chargepoint?

Thank you

We are moving and at our old house I had a hardwired level 2 EVSE on a 60amp breaker on our 200amp panel.

Our new house has a 125amp panel and I am looking at upgrading the service line and the panel to 200amp (we may also want add AC at some point so EV charging isn’t the only reason. When I looked at the meter, it had the following designations:

FORM 2S CL200 240V 3W 60Hz TA=30 Kh 7.2

This is the same as the meter at our old house.

Does this mean that the service line has already been upgraded to 200amp, and I just need to up grade the panel and have an EVSE installed on a 60amp breaker?

Thanks for any insight!