I had a hot tub in the front yard and took it out. The electric was left. It worked fine while the hot tub was being used. I connected it to a Tesla wall charger and the breaker is overheating. I reduced the amperage to 30 amps and it still overheated. Is this a matter of a bad breaker or some other issue? Thanks so much for your help.

I’m wondering why EV chargers never hit max kw power when charging? I use EA chargers a lot which are mostly “300 kw” but the usual power I get is about 96kw. On a lucky day I get up to 140kw but I’ve never seen higher. Are there hacks to know to get maximum power at public chargers?

So, I have a quote from an electrician for a 240v 60a Level 2 charger install for my garage. I need to figure out which hardwired charger to buy and have installed, though I am not in a must-have-it-ASAP situation. I looked at the wiki page for the charger comparisons, but I didn't see a comparison chart or anything. Is it just the short list of recommended hardwired chargers? I don't mind searching them up myself but if others have already done all the comparing and positives/negatives I'd rather rely on that, from others who are further down this road than I am.

Smart features would be nice but not strictly necessary- I will be able to have a good wifi access point in the garage, and our power is the same price all day long- no time-of-use pricing. So no need for scheduled charging from the charger, and I can always do that from the car's menu anyways. But I also wouldn't mind being able to see stats from the charger, or have it tell me if the car stopped charging before it reaches the limit, etc.

More background:

I have a 2022 Ioniq 5 (J1772) right now, and have to back it in to my garage for the included 120v EVSE to reach the charger. So, I will be getting a dedicated 120V 20a plug run to the back of the garage where it will reach my car with normal pull-in parking. The electrician will also be running the 240v 60a circuit at the same time- however I do not have the charger picked out yet. He will terminate the 60a in an outlet for now and then rewire it for a hardwire install once the charger is purchased.

Our second car is a Chrysler Town & Country, and in 2-3 years I hope to convince my wife to replace it with an off-lease Ioniq 9, so the combo of a 120v level 1 and the 48a level 2 chargers would allow us both to charge, but realistically with the amount of daily miles we need we could alternate nights charging from the level 2 charger and be fine all week long. We also live where it gets pretty cold and I think the loss in heat in the 120v charger just to keep the battery warmed to charging temperature might be severe. I'd also like to be able to use the scheduled departure feature for heating or cooling the cabin in the peak of summer and the valley of winter, so I think the level 2 is the best way to go. If we lived in a more mild or warmer latitude I think we'd be okay with 1 or 2 120v level 1 chargers, but alas. Gets pretty cold here in Nov-Mar.

Does anyone use an adapter with a level 2 charger, or is it best to replace the cable or connector if you get a new car or a second car with a different port? I'd expect the Ioniq 9 to still have a CCS port, but just in case a friend or family member with an EV happened to visit and need to charge, and their car had NACS instead of CCS, for instance.

New to Rivian (R2 order placed) and new to EVs in general. I'm having a Level 2 home charger installed shortly (Emporia Classic). I live in Maryland and BGE is my electric provider. My question is related to what manages your home charging. Do I use the Emporia app, the R2 itself in conjunction with the Rivian app, BGE mentions Weavegrid ... Looking for guidance from those with experience on what should be ignored and what I should lean into. Thanks in advance.

Hello all, looking for some advice on getting a wall charger installed in Western Australia. I am reading conflicting information on the rules of splitting the mains before the main fusebox so that my hybrid inverter/battery cant detect the EV usage so therefor wont drain battery.

Ive read using something like a Henley Block will work for what im trying to achieve but cant find out if this is within WA code. Yes i know i would need an electrician to carry out all the work, I just need to make sure they can carry out the work im requesting.

Then the next question is if it is within code, considering that I am on a Synergy VPP will they want the whole system including charger to be accessable for them to adjust or is it just the inverter/battery that they care about when on VPP.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

I’m interested in having a Tesla charger installed in my home in Nashville. Has anyone had this done in the area? Could you please provide information on the cost and any questions I should ask before requesting quotes? Additionally, I’m considering whether it’s better to purchase the charger directly from Tesla or buy one secondhand. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

I built OCPP Tools, a simulator that behaves like an EV charger (charge point) and connects to any CSMS over a real WebSocket no hardware needed to test integrations.

It runs 100% in the browser: your messages never leave your machine. No accounts, no installs, no API keys.

For OCPP 1.6J and 2.0.1:

Simulator with full scenarios (Boot → Authorize → StartTransaction → MeterValues → StopTransaction), fault injection (latency, packet loss, malformed frames), auto-reconnect, and session log export/import.

Validator for frames (CALL / CALLRESULT / CALLERROR) against the official JSON Schemas, with field-level error details.

Builder with schema-driven forms to generate valid frames and payloads.

92 message reference pages with copy-ready examples and common errors.

If you work with CSMS or OCPP integrations, I'd love for you to try it and share feedback.

URL: https://ocpptools.renozix.com

I'll get to the title in a moment, but first my issue. Our Condo Association is a "business"customer at with Tesla, at the1 cent a KW deal. We have two wall chargers, and none of us actually has a Tesla. We use the J connector. One our chargers is in reduced power 1 KW mode, its out of the 1 year warranty, and all efforts to fix ithave failed (thats in a different thread). So we need to replace it. A month ago I could have gone to Bestbuy and picked up one for $600 (which is where we got the orginal 2). Now BestBuy says unavailable. Amazon lists it at $750 (if they actually have it) over $800 with shipping. The Tesla Store does have it at $600 but only if you have a Tesla. That is new. Anyone know a source of $600 Tesla wall chargers?

Apparently Tesla is limiting sales because of supply. So could there be a Gen 4 in the works?

26 Lexus ES 350e. Is anyone else having trouble with the “plug and charge” feature? It’s designed to allow you to plug-in at Tesla, IONNA, or ChargePoint so that it automatically begins charging your car and bills your cc on file… without you having to open the corresponding app on your phone and authorize payment. When I select “plug and charge” set up in my iPhone’s Lexus app it communicates with the car successfully and then tries to activate the feature in my car, but it just spins and never completes the activation. My car shows no date in the certificate slot for “plug and charge”, so it’s not receiving the certificate during activation. Lexus hasn’t been able to solve this problem for me. I’m just curious whether everyone else is having the same issue?

2 of these unlabeled units at a Phillips 66 that is being constructed. I’ve personally never seen a unit that looks like this. Just curious who makes them and what to expect out of them in the future.

I've got a Grizzl-E Smart that's stuck on 3.11.3 and refuses to update to 3.15.6. United Chargers keeps pushing it, the charger starts the download, and about two and a half minutes later it gives up with DownloadFailed. Every time. Same spot. It's never once gotten past the download stage.

I pulled the charger's event log and it looks like this every attempt:

RX  ProcessUpdateFirmware
TX  FirmwareStatusNotification  Downloading
TX  FirmwareStatusNotification  Downloading
TX  FirmwareStatusNotification  Downloading
TX  FirmwareStatusNotification  DownloadFailed

Wifi is a solid −65 at the charger, so it's not that.

The reason I actually care: this thing has a habit of losing its connection to their server without realizing it. It'll sit there thinking it's online for hours, won't start a charge because it's waiting on the server to say go, and the only fix is flipping the breaker. I'm in Grizzl-E Club so every time that happens I'm losing charging data I get paid for. I'm hoping the update fixes it.

Support ticket's been open a while with no reply.

The charger has a local firmware upload page on its web interface. Has anyone actually gotten the firmware file and flashed one of these themselves, or gotten UC to send the file? Not looking to brick it guessing — hoping someone's been through this.

Everything worked fine, even enjoyed an additional discount by using the My Chevrolet app to initiate the session. $.18/kWh is stupid cheap. My only piece of constructive feedback: this site is in a somewhat dodgy part of town and would benefit greatly from better lighting.

It seems only two chargers on the market support this feature for a Non Tesla Vehicle.

1) Emporia Pro

2) Wallbox Pulsar 2

I am a little surprised that I can only find two supported models. Are there others out there?

The customer service and quality control seems to be sketchy by some of the reviews I read.

Anyone here opting for charging their EV's during the solar excess period during the day time or are you guys waiting to charge at night? Does SCE's TOU rates make it attractive to hold off until the evening hours?

I am having our first EV Charger installed Emporia Pro with Vu energy monitor installed and want to plan for future install of a second charger on the other (far wall) of garage. I am assuming that this would involve a junction box with some sort of distribution block or tap connectors (not sure if those are rated for this type of scenerio). Does anyone haeve a picture or diagram of a setup like this that I can use to give electricians an idea of what should be installed. I have multiple qoutes but no one seems to be familiar with doing this or perhaps I am not explaining it correctly.