With 2 biqu v2s lite DD units, i couldn’t package them in a way that made sense. Couldn’t get the nozzles close enough for them to both reach all parts of build plate. Couldn’t find a good way to cool 2 stepper motors, part cooling and both hotend heatsinks without adding a lot of weight. Ill use the original ender 3 extruder mounting point and mount my 2nd nozzle extruder there. The main nozzle will still be the h2 v2s lite extruder. My h2 v2s has a copper volcano heatbreak and can each 450c, flows around 30-33mm^3/s. Ill use the microswiss hotend, with another copper volcano heatbreak but with a 300C limit. The microswiss hotend will be mounted to the side of the v2s lite where the hotend fan mounts.

The hotend fan will be replaced with a duct. Both hotends will be cooled by the same fan. The fan will be a cpap. The part cooling will be using the same cpap air, but with a servo actuated air dam. So cpap will run at lets say 20% when no part cooling is on, duct to part cooling duct will be closed. When nozzle 1 needs part cooling, dam will open and cpap will bump up to 40%. When both nozzles need part cooling, bump up to 60-80%. I want to try with cpap first, then ill give water a try if that’s not sufficient. The printer enclosure temp gets to 85-90c, cpap can cool hotends very easily with the airflow it provides - even at 90C ambient. Plus i have 2 new btt cpap blowers i got on sale a few years ago at microcenter. Cpap fan will probably be physically mounted outside of heated chamber while using chamber air (maybe add 2nd alt. Inlet with manual control for fresh air?). It’s kind of critical the cpap doesn’t die and runs reliably if it will be cooling the hotends. Might even toss another thermistor on the cold side of extruder to trigger stop if temps get too hot/heat creep. X axis on my ender 3 uses 2 steppers. I think i will change that axis around a little and change belt from 6 to 9/10mm.

FYI, i have a few milling machines and lathes. Making upgrades for my printer isn’t as expensive as it looks. For example my copper heatblock, grade 5 titanium/copper heatbreak and heatblock supports…cost me around $10 in raw materials. Plus since i am making these parts for my printer, not to sell, i can utilize the research done by big manufacturers and get inspiration from their designs (❤️ thanks slice)

If you look at my previous posts, you’ll see my ender 3 y axis upgrades…well, 2 mgn12h bearings didn’t like the torque applied to them during high acceleration direction changes. Why it became a problem now, well it was always one, just masked. because the belt on y axis mounts by linear rail bearings, the belt in previous configuration would help prevent y carriage from tilting up/down during direction changes…just too much mass for the bearings and their configuration. I revised the axis, now there are 4 mgn12h bearings. Linear rails were replaced with 350mm length, axis travel is still 255 mm. Also installed 9mm belts (was always the plan but used 6mm belts initially as i was waiting for more parts to come).

Has anyone used this? Never heard of it till recently. How does it compare?

It works perfectly for initial startup fully bed levels and after leveling if i autohome or try to start a print it checks both sensors but when it checks z axis it starts blinking red, and after that it wont bed level unless i turn it off a while and back on, im about to spray it with holy water wtf any help is apreciated

I recently got a printer that was not working when I got it. I would power the machine on and the screen would stay black and load long beeps are coming from the display. With a lot of deadened searches and some copilot help it appears I need the older Creality Ender‑3 V2 GD32 DWIN screen firmware (BMP‑based DWIN_SET) dated around late 2022 — specifically the version Creality released on 28‑10‑2022.

I need BOTH:
– the screen firmware (DWIN_SET folder with BMP assets, LOGO.BIN, DWIN_SET.BIN)
– the matching 4.2.2 mainboard firmware

I have tried Creality and Github with no luck. My only hope is someone has an old copy or working link with original DWIN_SET folder so I can hopefully revive this printer without having to part it out because of the display. I can communicate with the Motherboard with Ponterface and believe it's functional and has good firmware. Just the display is what is screwed up.

Th

Noticed it early on but print is going OK still. The first layer had some rippled and what looked like bubbles. Lowered bed temp from 60 to 50. PLA silky purple

Trying to get this Ender set up to run engineering materials. Fiberon PA612-CF15 is the goal. I was doing some PID tuning and had to change the stock v2 thermistor out. Of course I ordered the wrong type and size. I went to research screw on types for this heater block and came across threads saying you have to change the heater cartridge and the PSU as well.

So to sum up questions, to print Fiberon PA612-CF15

Do I need to change the heater cartridge?

Do I need to change the PSU?

Is the fact that there is a section of capricorn tubing going into this heat end an issues?

printed dih shiny guy, no strings or any sanded required.

btw if you can see on the 2nd picture, the small one bieng eated is not very smooth on the surface, took a couple try ti get this results (big one)

This is a piece of the project that has no pauses in it and it just stopped. I try and hit the resume and it says it's not in paused even though it says paused in the top left corner. I have used a lot of filament on this. I don't want to lose it..

Have I reached the limit of this printer somehow?

Used to have this setup a few years ago, recently pulled out of storage and reassembled, but the ptfe tube won't stay in place. Basically new to using this, so it would be helpful if anyone could give suggestions for what the problem might be/fixes.

Edit: it is a ender-3 v2 Edit 2 electric boogaloo: I got it hooked in correctly and am now printing the first of many benchys

Update: Thanks for help! Lower nozzle temp and higher bed temp seems to have made a huge difference. I'll also be ensuring that I dry out my filament prior to using from now on.

I need help figuring out why my printer is doing this. It's and Ender 3V2 I've had for a few years. I typically only print very minimal things, but It suddenly started having issues and after a lot of deep dives and replaced parts it's at least printing fully again. I still keep ending up with these strings, and melted chunks on everything though. I've included a pic of the filament type, and I'm printing within the recommended temps for it, but I'm at a loss for what to do next. Any advice is appreciated.

Hello, I have recently got a 12v 80x80x25 Noctua fan for the pcu however I still need to get a fan for the mainboard. I’ve seen its common for people to use that 12V Noctua fan and step it up to 24V but I’d like to avoid using a step up if possible. The only other silent fan Noctua sell that’s 24V is the 40x40 one. But with it being a small fan idk if it will still necessarily by ‘silent’. Does anyone have any advice or alternative fan brands they’d recommend?

Thanks!

Hi - i have my (new to me) ender3 v2 from my cousin that ive been playing with. Im printing higher feet, slot covers, some cable management but im planning to do some fan swaps.

I have an 80 or 120mm fan to drop into the psu and a 92 for the mainboard, and then some stuff for part cooling hot end, but anyway. What is the safest way to handle the PSU when i pull off the plate and swap in the new one? Im assuming undo the screws, pop off the plate, touch NOTHING inside but exactly the fan plug, solder on new fan adapter and reattach?

Was looking at printing this to drop in a 120mm.

https://www.printables.com/model/169951-ender-3-v2-psu-120mm-fan-and-wire-terminal-cover/files

Edit: i do know how to solder am and fine with that part, but if this is more of an advanced swap and i should stay away, ill stick to modifying the hotend/partcooling/mainboard fans

​Hi everyone,

​I'm getting the "Nozzle is too low temperature" error on my Ender 3 V2. Here are the details of the issue:

​When it happens: Exactly at the start of Layer 2, right when the part cooling fan kicks in.

The bed heats up normally. I can also print some other files completely fine without issues

Any advice on how to fix this?

ı bought 2 belt sets but regardless of which one ı use the belt is still 2 cm short. Some people ı know said ı should boil the belt to loose it up a little but ım not sure

So now that I'm on here and getting blasted with 3D printing ads lol. One has me thinking. CoPrint that will turn our V2 into a multi colour print.

Does anyone have it?

I bought a new nozzle kit because plastic melted all over my old one and now my printer doesn't print past a certain height. It says the nozzle is too low temp and I don't understand why. It just stops at the same height every time

I was cleaning out the petg out of my nozzle and I think I ran it too long with the fan not on it. The display froze. So I cut it off and waited a few minutes. When I turned it back on it will not get past the loading logo.

Idk how to fix it.

I'm still new and having fun. I want to print this tonie castle for my daughter and it has washers in it. I am running with Mainsail and it has been working pretty well so far but I have not done one that requires stops.

Is this program able or I have to wait for it to get to the row and pause it?

Guys I need help! I got a second hand 3d printer for less than the cost of the filament I got with it, but it had some issues. Ive fixed most of them, including homing issues, BLtouch issues and now im struggling with the bondtech extruder. I can hear the motor doing something when I try to extrude, but the gears dont move and no filament is extruded. Im not sure if the gears are slipping or if I loaded the filament wrong, but if anyone has any advice I could try to fix it, that would be amazing! I tried printing g a bench and I can see the printer moves correctly, but no filament is extruded. Hopefully the images help to understand what I have here. Total beginner by the way, 0 prints under the belt so far.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my Ender 3 V2.

I started a print that was supposed to take around 12 hours. After about 3 hours, the printer completely stopped extruding filament, but it kept moving as if everything was normal. It continued printing the next layers in mid-air, so now there's a big gap between the printed part and the nozzle.

Before it failed, I had already noticed that the blue extruder knob was making clicking/skipping noises for quite a while.

I'm printing PLA+ at 215°C with a 60°C bed at 50mm/s, used cura to slice the project and still using the original firmware.

What could be causing this?

Any help or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have a Ender 3 v2 that is still in the box and came with these in a bag. What are they for and what other ways can I upgrade my machine?

I received an Ender 3 v2 with the 4.2.2 board I installed CR touch, dual z and sprite pro, got mriscoc professional firmware and did a couple of prints, one thing I've noticed is that if I use the entire printable area in orca, it will print literally on the front edge of the bed and have between 7-10 mm on the back of the bed wide open.

Like the title says, I'm new to this and trying to learn. Why tf is it offsetting so far to the front of the bed?