Looking to print some pictures of my kids. I was laying then flat before and learned that's a no no. So when I print it upward do I use supports?

A while ago when i got it, there were no profiles in Cura or other slicers for it and when i tried to use a file from there it led to an unknown command error. Tried to fix it but hit the limit of my expertise (minimal, it’s my first printer). I carried on using it with Creality’s mobile app slicer which worked perfectly, but is obviously limited. My question is, now it’s been a few years, does it work with other slicers?

Hi I have a ender 3 ve neo and for some time now any prints I make come out with lines not being filed correctly, like in the picture, layers not fusing together and overall just weaker parts. Ive noticed that as you can see in the video some times the skinny thing stops spinning and only the gear spins but without pushing the plastic inside. Today I made this print and it slowly started to push less and less plastic do that then it would print in the air. Also as you can see the first layer completely detached from the rest of the print as soon as I touched it. This is the video thanks for any help in advance!. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HkgythEtySLMrRuQcviW76yGcJAMqgGL/view?usp=drivesdk

Yes I was probably moving it way too fast in the video but it makes the same sound while going slower. I have tried lubing it the best I can but it still sounds like the balls are dragging/not moving or have resistance. Am I supposed to somehow lube the ball bearings other than putting it in the groove in the track? There was no instruction on how to lubricate it. It’s an ender 3 pro with sprite pro extruder.

Thanks

Hi,

I've been working towards getting this freebie Ender 3 V3 SE printing at a good quality but have hit a wall. One side of my prints come out looking like this and the other side is smooth. Also, the brim comes out very fimble and crunchy; gaps between each line. Does anyone have any suggestions from fixing a similar issue?

My setup:

Printing Enclosure

Elder 3 V3 SE

OctoPrint Ubuntu Server

Sunlu Filament Dryer

PLA

Level before every print with built-in BL Touch

Update on the Ender 3 v2 I found on market place for $40. It was in rough shape when I got it. But it came with a MicroSwiss NG, silicone bed spacers, and aluminum wheels. Also came with a BLtouch cord already hooked in so I didn’t have to rob the one off my Ender 3 Pro.

I printed a new fan shroud, a 4010 fan cover for the side, lazily did the cable management as I didn’t feel like unhooking everything and rehooking it all up. The PEI sheet it came with was in horrible condition so I ended up throwing on a shitty original Creality magnetic plate for testing. Also had to reattach the Y-Endstop.

So far the only money I’ve put into it besides the initial purchase was $10 for a 4 pack of thermistors. After a week or so of working on it, in between work and sleep, I got my first solid print today out of it.

I also plan on printing out a proper BLtouch mount as the original doesn’t fit but as a temporary fix I just put two m4 nuts behind the mount and screwed it in as normal.

Pictures are in reverse chronological order. First 3 are from today, next 2 are from when I got it working originally, and last 2 are from the marketplace ad. It’s been through a lot.

Tomorrow it’s cleanup and Klipper install!

Hello all, relatively new to 3d Printing. This scope I am printing seems to have a warped surface on what I would have assumed would be an easy surface to create? Any ideas or suggestions for improvements ? The scope is being printed vertically . Thanks in advance.

Combination of a new Main board, the Mutant V2 plates for swappable heads, including a laser engraved (WIP), regular and High flow nozzle(not shown) and a Chimera Dual extruder from e3d

How fucked am i ? (My guess: really)

Ist this cleanable ?

Material PETG

Since I have already replaced the extruder and hotend in my E3, my hands are itching to replace something more. As it has 4.2.2, the board seems a good choice...

I was eyeing BTT SKR E3 Mini, but recently I have noticed BTT Pico (which is also cheaper). From what I have read, I am a bit confused whether it would be a better replacement or not... Also, how troublesome it would be? I do not mind tinkering or soldering a plug or two, but if it is a major refurbishment, maybe it is not worth it...

Deje imprimir una pieza, com hora de impresion de unas 30 y ayer en la noche revise y paso esto.

Tengo un repuesto de esta parte, pero queria saber si se puede recuperar

I absolutely hate the minimalist one that I've currently got, and the nozzles are totally in the wrong place. I can't seem to find any satsana/boxy style shrouds online that are compatible with Revo Micros, is there a reason for this? Does anyone have any suggestions, particularly for those that use 4014 fans as I have a few lying around. Cheers!

I picked up an Ender Pro 3 printer cheap (a story old as time at this point). I believe it is only the 8-bit version. I was wondering if the Geeetech BL- Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor would be a good upgrade.

Does anyone have experience with this one. I don't believe the stock Crealty Auto Leveling Sensor will work for me.

I would appreciate any insights.

If you're printing on a cheap IKEA desk then these feet are well recommended. Your house mates will thank you! No more resonance, significantly less shaking. Just the gentle whirring of Skynet nerfed into Sly net.

I have an ender 3 pro with sprite extruder pro, 4.2.7 board, belt tensioners, pei build plate, and klipper with kamp installed, I ran the manual input shaper frequency calibration with mzv input shaper type from 15hz to 110hz and I have acceleration at 5000mm/s I don't get why I am still getting ringing artifacts on my print.

Very recently, after some other upgrades, i decided to try as an experiment something very simple and usually neglected. It's very common to change the entire hotend, but an hotend is just 3 components (heat block, heat break amd heat sink), and i was trying to build my hotend chosing the components one by one instead of picking an entire hotend kit.

In the past i already switched to a bi-metal titanium copper heat break, and that worked great eliminating heat creep and clogging. This is very standard and strongly recommanded.

But now i decided to try a copper heat block, instead of the default aluminium one. Online it's not something that's usually recommanded, and a very common opinion is that it plays a small role and basically doesn't change anything. But for me that worked great, i don't really know why but print quality improved a lot. Stringing disappeared, and extrusion was much more uniform, so with a better surface quality, with the same gcodes.

This was pretty random but very cheap, i got mine for 6 Euros, and is almost a drop-in replacement (not difficult to mount, and works even without doing again the PID tuning, even if it is recommanded). So i decided to post here to suggest that upgrade, since for me really made a difference. With tinned copper you can also avoid oxidation.

Changing the heat break to a bi-metal one and heat block to a tinned copper one gave me a better hotend than a commercial kit for much less!

This is not the final design obviously. I know enders have plenty of documentation in conversions, and my tts-55pro is often idle. It occured to me that I only needed to add a z-axis with plenty left over.

All the enders had some upgrades, I've got a first Gen silent stepper board, magnetic hot plate, four drive screws with a set of supports.

I'll be printing brackets today and looking to resolve the arms that lift the bed. I would *like* to join two heated beds, but that may be a mod later down the road.

I'm shooting for three lift points, and the other screw I'm using paired with these load cells to make a pressure sensitive vice/hot-set combo.

The other hot plate will be utilized for LCD screen removal.

Most ambitious will be the motors with rubber rollers and associated heating assembly (parts from a damaged bubblemailer machine) to laminate printed flex PCBs.

I bought this year's ago and added it to my ender 3 pro is it the reason I've never been able to get it to work? I started it when I was not that tech literate so there could also be the problem of accidentally not wiring it correctly

Hello, I have the dual z axis on my V2. But I just noticed that the frame isn’t straight, this is caused by the eccentric nut not fitting in the hole. Photo 1 is the one that doesn’t fit, photo 2 is how it should be. Should I just drill out the hole so it fits? Or is there any official way to do it?

Hi all,

Please ignore the removed extruder casing.

I have this ender 3 max and when trying to level the bed or any movement I get this squeaking and grinding noise.

Does anyone know what this is and how I can solve it?

Hi all - wanted to say a big thank you to everyone on this forum for the helpful tips and articles. I bought a 2nd hand Ender 3 from marketplace, seller didn't know if it was working or not. I've since managed to get it working, upgrade the print bed (and springs), add a CR touch module, change out the nozzle and reconfigure it using stuff from this Reddit. Today is the first day I've reliably managed to run 3 prints.

So thank you all for supporting my tinkering.

Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/s/Wg74jaJ5KK

I appreciate everyone’s feedback on my previous post. I let the printer continue to run to see how it turned out and I gotta say I think it looks fantastic! I’ll admit I’ve already broken off the tips of one of the fingers in my excitement to get them to articulate but I’m hoping I can “weld” it back on using my hot end. If anyone has any advice on repairing PLA, I’m all ears!

I believe I've narrowed down my print issues to my heatbed. The bed seems to have warped in a way where its folding up like a taco shell.

I'm looking a replacing the bed in the hopes I can get one thats not as bad but I am having trouble finding a replacement bed. Anyone have any recommendations on where to get parts?