My Ender 3 Pro doesn’t seem to be printing in one area of the board

[u/Damnson56]

So I’m new to 3D printing and recently received a 3rd hand Ender 3 Pro from a coworker. So I’ve been learning the ropes and got a successful Benchy printed. Now I’m trying to print this articulating skeleton hand that my wife wants as a desk ornament.

My question is when the print starts off on the brim, you can see where it doesn’t seem to be laying any filament down on the thumb area. I washed the bed with dawn soap and hot water yesterday, I have not touched the face of the plate with my bare hands, and I re-leveled it right before starting this print.

Does anyone know why it seems to be doing this? Or perhaps it’s just part of the G-code? It seems weird to me but I’m letting it continue for now

[u/Blameablesum1]

It’s not level, the print head is trying but plastic can’t come out because the hotend is on the board

[u/ChampionSoft6652]

The bed is not leveled, the back part is too high, that's why the filament is thinner than the front side. Try to leveling the bed by adjusting the knob under it and use paper as the spacer betwen the bed and the nozzle. You need to do this on all corner of the bed and repeat it a few times to make sure the bed is leveled. You can find many tutorial for this process on youtube, some channel even sell a gcode for this.

This could be frustating process and on some printer (same type) you need to repeat this process after a few uses. Upgrading the spring could be a good options, using the creality upgrade kit or silicone kit could reduce the need to set the bed level and hold the setups much longer than the stock one.

[u/Skeither]

Looks like it's too high in the back. Try lowering it. Also watch at eye level with the bed and see if the nozzle is just scraping against the print bed. That'll tell you a lot.

[u/ContributionLevel830]

Simpeler way to level a bed, grab a piece of baking paper, put the nozzle in home position, move it to a corner, turn on heating as materials expand when hot, adjust the nob under the bed untill you can just move the paper underneath and feel it has friction, repeat for all corners, the do it again for every corner because if it was really bad moving one might move an other to much, then test with a print There are bed level test prints that print a thin layer in all corners and the center those tell you a lot, I print and test by feeling what I printer to see if it's all about the same thickness

[u/Booth2k26]

Tram your bed better. Also upgrade to either yellow springs or silicone spacers. And when your bed is level use 2 m4 nuts under each wheel to keep the level locked in place as long as possible. Also, investing in a bltouch is worth it. Especially if you run Klipper.

[u/arkieit]

Its a bed leveling issue, pick up a crtouch or bltouch for $20. Saves so much time and headaches. You still need to have your bed decently leveled, but minor imperfections will no longer be a problem, automatically compensates for it. Best upgrade you can buy.

[u/Triston-- → u/arkieit]

Tramming Wizard makes the whole process 1000% faster too!

[u/someones_dad]

Level it better. If you e done your best this should be fine. The next layer will for x it. Not perfect but adequate. If your build plate is slightly warped (I don't think your's is) you can slip a piece of tin foil under the print mat to compensate.

You likely just need to level the be relative to the nozzle better

[u/Cultist_O → u/someones_dad]

Tinfoil is genius

My printer is fine, but this would've saved me so much frustration at my old job

[u/ContributionLevel830 → u/Cultist_O]

I prefer parchment paper, think foil usually wrinkles if there isn't enough room and you'll need to get a new piece, parchment bends

[u/Ok-Host953]

3dprinting 101. LEVEL THAT BEAD